Any info on how to remove transfer case from tranny

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Mohpar

Mohpar

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Yeah I did. The guy I had do it used to be a transmission tech for about 25 years and still does it as a side job.

Update. Talked to TransGo today - helpful guy named Jim said that if you don't upshift or do towing then skips the rear band spring upgrade and do not adjust the rear bands.

He did say to go ahead and install the 2nd servo parts, the tapered orifice, and adjust the front bands. Will crack the trans open this weekend and do it, will report findings.
 

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Glad he could help you. I don't remember having a tapered orifice tho or even putting one in.


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Glad he could help you. I don't remember having a tapered orifice tho or even putting one in.

Might have just gotten the smaller kit? In any case, you don't have to put in a new orifice IF you used one of the provided upgraded valvebody plate. I used the old one plate and the guy at transgo said just tapping in the orifice was sufficient. If you had a 1999 46re trans the guy who did it probably just used the new plate (thing metal plate about the size of half sheet of paper) and there would be no need to install the orifice.

Wanted to ask - does your truck shift hard? When I modded the valve body, I drilled the bigger of the recommended holes, and when it does shift at lower speeds it feels solid. Friend who helped me install said when he did his he'd chirp the tires on the dragstrip, and while I don't think mine is as extreme as that, I'm hoping it shifts like it does at low speeds thru the high gears.
 

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Update. Talked to TransGo today - helpful guy named Jim said that if you don't upshift or do towing then skips the rear band spring upgrade and do not adjust the rear bands.

He did say to go ahead and install the 2nd servo parts, the tapered orifice, and adjust the front bands. Will crack the trans open this weekend and do it, will report findings.

What do you mean by "don't upshift"? Drive around in 1st gear?
Who doesn't tow with they're truck?
 

1SilverBullet2

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What do you mean by "don't upshift"? Drive around in 1st gear?

Who doesn't tow with they're truck?


You'd manually have to move the lever through every gear with the shifted from what the Transgo guy told me last fall.


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Might have just gotten the smaller kit? In any case, you don't have to put in a new orifice IF you used one of the provided upgraded valvebody plate. I used the old one plate and the guy at transgo said just tapping in the orifice was sufficient. If you had a 1999 46re trans the guy who did it probably just used the new plate (thing metal plate about the size of half sheet of paper) and there would be no need to install the orifice.



Wanted to ask - does your truck shift hard? When I modded the valve body, I drilled the bigger of the recommended holes, and when it does shift at lower speeds it feels solid. Friend who helped me install said when he did his he'd chirp the tires on the dragstrip, and while I don't think mine is as extreme as that, I'm hoping it shifts like it does at low speeds thru the high gears.


It shifts firm, not overly hard. Atleast not anymore, it shifted a little hard when I first got it in but I was still filling up fluid so I'm thinking air was just going through the system or something but since then everything is firm and smooth. My overdrive spring was broken hence the reason my overdrive was so crappy and wouldn't shift until 50 mph or so even on a flat road. Now it shifts exactly at 45 mph again


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Old days, we would use a transfer case saddle to hold it up, after unbolting it. use saem to help drop them too, along with a tranny jack. Probably don;t such a things now, as lightweight as everything it today.
 
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Mohpar

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You'd manually have to move the lever through every gear with the shifted from what the Transgo guy told me last fall.
What do you mean by "don't upshift"? Drive around in 1st gear?
Who doesn't tow with they're truck?

I don't think that's right, it's more you have the option to if you were drag racing or street racing and you were serious about it. You'd also be able to be driving, throw it into first at any speed/gear, and upshift it at will. Good options but I just don't ever do that.
 

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I don't think that's right, it's more you have the option to if you were drag racing or street racing and you were serious about it. You'd also be able to be driving, throw it into first at any speed/gear, and upshift it at will. Good options but I just don't ever do that.

You can do that without a manual valve body.
 
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Mohpar

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You can do that without a manual valve body.

Well yes, but I think the kit is trying to make it more reliable and efficient? In any case, I'm not going to be doing that.

So update on the servo parts install. Had only 1/2 a day today but dropped the pan, pull the Vbody, adjusted the PR valve, checked some springs to be sure everything's fine. Installed the recommended tapered orifice.

Tomorrow I'll be putting in the front servo parts, adjusting bands, and reinstalling vbody, and adding new fluid (flushed it). Putting it all back together and see how she's looking.

Note to others - that aluminum valve body is very soft. The torx screws don't need the be torqued...like at all. Well a little of course, but snug is all they need, very easy to over do it. I almost stripped one screw, could feel it almost break free.

I hope no one ever has to work on their transmissions here...absolutely no fun being under and trying to hold everything upwards.

The good thing is I've taken pictures (lots), and I'll do a little writeup that could supplement Lifted01's tutorial on removing the vbody and what is involved.
 
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Mohpar

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Okay final update here. Put in servo parts (was a pita), and installed valve body and added new fluid. The first test drive kept slipping out of gear, so I loosened the adjustment for the bands and it helped alot. Still a little slipping at high RPM (5000+) but I think it needed fluid.
 

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