Anyone ever see rust here before?

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fourpoint7

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Hi everyone. I have a 2011 ram 4.7 bought it back in 2018. A year after I bought it both rear wheel wells started to form rust bubbles. I started to panic and busted out all my body repair tools. I got 90% of the rust off but had to take it to a fly by night garage auto body guy. He charged me $500 to fix both sides. He cut out the rust on one side but not the other, repainted both sides of the bed. A year later, the rust came back in more bubbles. I had learned from other body shops that when this happens, u don't fix it, u go buy a new or used bed. Well, I don't have $2,500 dollars for a used bed. Looks like the guy used alot of (and I hate to say the word) "bondo". Here is a tip I learned that a old guy had told me to do to ur truck BEFORE a vehicle starts to rust. OIL THE HECK OUT OF UR VEHICLE. He told me to take a bottle of any clean motor oil and pour it down ur door panels, door jams, cab corners. I do this every year to my trucks cab and I have no issues with rust. It does work. One thing I didn't mention is I have 2 trucks, I put my 2011 away for the winter, (the salt will eat everything.) I drive my 1995 ram in the winter. I am shocked at the difference it makes. For the rust under the truck, I use a product called "por15" it's a 100 times better than rustolum paint. The question I keep asking myself is "Why does dodge trucks rust so much?" Sounds like they skip the zinc oxide and use cheap China metal.
 

mtwofeathers

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My 2013 1500 Crew Cab has some rust forming on the passengers front door side edge about halfway up. I know the door bottoms rust out on these trucks but those look brand new because the trucks been Fluid Filmed since 2015.

I didn't get many before pics but I scraped the seam sealer off the back side of the door and ground down any rust I found. Talk about a can of worms, it was pretty much the length of the door panel. Thankfully it hadn't gotten too far onto the front of the door.
View attachment 474289

I ended up painting it with 3 coats of etch primer and then 3 coats of black. I don't care what it looks like on the back side of the door, I just want to stop the rust.
View attachment 474288

I drive a work van for work and have driven many rot box spare vans in the 14 years I've been doing this job and I have never seen a door rust here.
I checked the other 3 doors as well as the hood and tailgate and they were all perfect. I'm thinking it wasn't prepped right at the factory??
My oldest truck a 2001 has the same amount of rust as my wife's 2020 truck......zero
 

GTyankee

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Maybe if you lived up the hill in Flagstaff
Winter issues would show its ugly head

When i lived back in Connecticut, if people had room for it
We had a 3 season car & a ****** for winter
 

omac

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Never seen rust that high up before. My 13 Crew Cab has no rust anywhere. When it was new I painted the axle and anything that was bare metal. The salt air on the cape cant be good either for your truck.
 
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Hemi395

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Never seen rust that high up before. My 13 Crew Cab has no rust anywhere. When it was new I painted the axle and anything that was bare metal. The salt air on the cape cant be good either for your truck.
Thats awesome! Mine is the same except on the side of that door...

Yep anything outside rusts here on the Cape. If we have some good wind, everything gets a salt coating. As soon as my kids are out of school we're moving inland. I couldn't care less about being near the ocean lol
 

tones2SS

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Hi everyone. I have a 2011 ram 4.7 bought it back in 2018. A year after I bought it both rear wheel wells started to form rust bubbles. I started to panic and busted out all my body repair tools. I got 90% of the rust off but had to take it to a fly by night garage auto body guy. He charged me $500 to fix both sides. He cut out the rust on one side but not the other, repainted both sides of the bed. A year later, the rust came back in more bubbles. I had learned from other body shops that when this happens, u don't fix it, u go buy a new or used bed. Well, I don't have $2,500 dollars for a used bed. Looks like the guy used alot of (and I hate to say the word) "bondo". Here is a tip I learned that a old guy had told me to do to ur truck BEFORE a vehicle starts to rust. OIL THE HECK OUT OF UR VEHICLE. He told me to take a bottle of any clean motor oil and pour it down ur door panels, door jams, cab corners. I do this every year to my trucks cab and I have no issues with rust. It does work. One thing I didn't mention is I have 2 trucks, I put my 2011 away for the winter, (the salt will eat everything.) I drive my 1995 ram in the winter. I am shocked at the difference it makes. For the rust under the truck, I use a product called "por15" it's a 100 times better than rustolum paint. The question I keep asking myself is "Why does dodge trucks rust so much?" Sounds like they skip the zinc oxide and use cheap China metal.
I'm probably gonna skip the quick fixes stuff and let it rust, but stop it as best that I can personally.
I'll just buy a new bed and have it painted and installed when it comes time. If I still have the truck by then. Maybe, maybe not.

But, yeah, I agree. Cheap materials is why this happens, 100%. Use vendors that sell for a cheap price, you get what you pay for.
 

Joe Merchak

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Hi everyone. I have a 2011 ram 4.7 bought it back in 2018. A year after I bought it both rear wheel wells started to form rust bubbles. I started to panic and busted out all my body repair tools. I got 90% of the rust off but had to take it to a fly by night garage auto body guy. He charged me $500 to fix both sides. He cut out the rust on one side but not the other, repainted both sides of the bed. A year later, the rust came back in more bubbles. I had learned from other body shops that when this happens, u don't fix it, u go buy a new or used bed. Well, I don't have $2,500 dollars for a used bed. Looks like the guy used alot of (and I hate to say the word) "bondo". Here is a tip I learned that a old guy had told me to do to ur truck BEFORE a vehicle starts to rust. OIL THE HECK OUT OF UR VEHICLE. He told me to take a bottle of any clean motor oil and pour it down ur door panels, door jams, cab corners. I do this every year to my trucks cab and I have no issues with rust. It does work. One thing I didn't mention is I have 2 trucks, I put my 2011 away for the winter, (the salt will eat everything.) I drive my 1995 ram in the winter. I am shocked at the difference it makes. For the rust under the truck, I use a product called "por15" it's a 100 times better than rustolum paint. The question I keep asking myself is "Why does dodge trucks rust so much?" Sounds like they skip the zinc oxide and use cheap China metal.
I got my 2018 coated with NHOU (https://nhoilundercoating.com/). Here in NJ they use the liquid crap too. You can actually see it soak into the metal so hopefully I keep the rust away.
 

quickster2

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Hi everyone. I have a 2011 ram 4.7 bought it back in 2018. A year after I bought it both rear wheel wells started to form rust bubbles. I started to panic and busted out all my body repair tools. I got 90% of the rust off but had to take it to a fly by night garage auto body guy. He charged me $500 to fix both sides. He cut out the rust on one side but not the other, repainted both sides of the bed. A year later, the rust came back in more bubbles. I had learned from other body shops that when this happens, u don't fix it, u go buy a new or used bed. Well, I don't have $2,500 dollars for a used bed. Looks like the guy used alot of (and I hate to say the word) "bondo". Here is a tip I learned that a old guy had told me to do to ur truck BEFORE a vehicle starts to rust. OIL THE HECK OUT OF UR VEHICLE. He told me to take a bottle of any clean motor oil and pour it down ur door panels, door jams, cab corners. I do this every year to my trucks cab and I have no issues with rust. It does work. One thing I didn't mention is I have 2 trucks, I put my 2011 away for the winter, (the salt will eat everything.) I drive my 1995 ram in the winter. I am shocked at the difference it makes. For the rust under the truck, I use a product called "por15" it's a 100 times better than rustolum paint. The question I keep asking myself is "Why does dodge trucks rust so much?" Sounds like they skip the zinc oxide and use cheap China metal.
Take out the tail lights and soak the area between the inner and outer panels with Fluid Film or similar.
 
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quickster2

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YAh Corey,

Good plan man. If this idea dosnt work get a new door, take the inner panel off and check that seam.

Then WW or FF the **** out of it!!!
What is WW please?
 
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Hemi395

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Well my repair didn't hold up. I slapped some Fluid Film on it for now, way too cold here now to paint anything...
 

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Travis8352

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That brine is the worst thing they ever decided to put on the roads. Not only is it more corrosive than salt, it's also extremely sticky so it sticks to the roads. Unfortunately it also sticks to vehicles...
The brine in my area is just salt and water that they only use when its windy so it sticks to the roads. Stored in 100 gallon tanks on the backs of the salters
 

Dodge trucker

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On my 12, sometime before I got it, it has had the driver side bedside skin replaced. I see a few bubbles under the tailgate on that vertical section at the very back of the bed that intersects with the floor and is largely hidden by the bottom of the tailgate.... and on the front wall of the bed, where the spot welds are holding the panels together/ so far this is still very slight on that side. but none in same locations on the passenger side. If it follows what the carfax says (which says "was hit in the rear") it happened when the truck was about 8 months old.
Both sides, the bed has just a little rust starting on the lip where it folds into the wheel well, about equal on both sides. Not showing beyond the radius of the wheel well lip yet, so I want to treat it somehow and stop it from progressing this coming summer. Since I have had this one it has largely sat especially these last couple weeks because of all the salt they have been putting on our roads. i have a 96 dakota 4wd that I can drive thru the slop. Ive had the '12 for a month and have put just about 700 miles on it so far. My 99 Dakota that I just sold, the wheel wells on the bed rotted almost as fast as the grass grew this past year, 1st 20 years it didn't do that bad for being an Illinois truck from new/ until this past year.
I have to do something as I cant have this truck rot out on me before I can pay it off at least. It doesnt have much rust at all but it does have more rust already than my wife's 01 Durango/ which came from the South about 9 years ago where salt is never an issue.
I work for the state of IL and they absolutely love their Fords, and I see many F series trucks in the 201x years that are nearly completely rotted out. particularly the IDOT ones. and I want to keep my new '12 from looking like those as long as I can. This almost ties with the most expensive price that I ever paid for a vehicle, which was a 97 Wrangler back in Y2K... I paid $15k + fees, for that Jeep back then.... I paid almost $14k + fees for this truck. A big difference? That Jeep was 3 years old and had 19k miles.... and I had to pay almost the same money for a 10 year old truck with 93k miles a month ago. Yeah I know that was "cheap" on today's world but to me that was (and is) a **** of a lot of money. so I gotta keep it from disintigrating on me.
 

Dodge trucker

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The brine in my area is just salt and water that they only use when its windy so it sticks to the roads. Stored in 100 gallon tanks on the backs of the salters
they "pre treat" all the bridges here with it, the dissolved salt is sometimes mixed with beet juice because it is so sticky to help it stay on the bridge decks and not wash off so easy/
as far as I know the beet juice itself isn't corrosive but the salt water brine definitely is.
 
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Hemi395

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Well, looks like I'll be peeling the lip back this spring when it gets warmer here :(

20220212_094928.jpg
 

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