Anyone ?

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Rado

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Has anyone used Bed Liner on the rockers ?
With the Nasty liquid salt they use on the roads here and the gravel they use to sand I am thinking maybe using bed liner when the rockers need to be touched up !
Thanks
 

MarshRam

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Following... I painted my step bars about 8 years ago and they have looked like crap for a few years. They need to be repainted and I'm leaning into bed liner this time. No more worries about scratches, no buff and polish and if they need to be touched up from time to time, seems bed liner would be easier. The bed liner in my single cab is 10 years old. I recently cleaned it up with Adams Bed Liner Polish and it looks brand new. Rockers and step bars that get a little more abuse, bed liner seems like a good choice all the way around if your rockers are already toast and will continue to be abused.
 

rzr6-4

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I just did some spray can stuff years ago that didn't hold up, thinking about using the real deal Raptor liner and doing it again this summer.

My dad had LineX done years ago on his rockers and it has held up well.
 

Burla

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My bars were linex'd more then ten years ago, still look like a year old, they get a little black/grey then they look the same probably til the end of days, but no salt around here. I'd read the Fluid Film thread if you haven't and get on wool wax once a year instead, I think the linex would hold up pretty good but the salt will get around it on the rockers. Trucks that fluid film or now wool wax once a year look new everywhere you spray it. Not a hard dyi item just spend some time on it.
 
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Rado

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THANK YOU for the replies !

I was thinking of using the Rust killer primer on the rockers then Bed Liner
But may just repaint them !

Just had miner rust repair on a wheel well done and they did a great job
They blended my 11 y/o silver spot on !

At 73 years old I do not want to spend 70k$ on a new truck !

My RAM is my weekend driver and car is daily to get grandson

I was using Fluid Film yearly till the shop disappeared like a fart in the wind :O Now use KROWN
I agree 150% on Using Fluid Film , Krown or Wool Wax yearly
 

Sherman Bird

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Following... I painted my step bars about 8 years ago and they have looked like crap for a few years. They need to be repainted and I'm leaning into bed liner this time. No more worries about scratches, no buff and polish and if they need to be touched up from time to time, seems bed liner would be easier. The bed liner in my single cab is 10 years old. I recently cleaned it up with Adams Bed Liner Polish and it looks brand new. Rockers and step bars that get a little more abuse, bed liner seems like a good choice all the way around if your rockers are already toast and will continue to be abused.
I was in Flagstaff, Az years ago. I met a fellow who had put a 1980 Firebird body on a 4W drive truck Chassis. It sat up high, and he coated the entire car in bedliner. Unique!
 

huntergreen

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THANK YOU for the replies !

I was thinking of using the Rust killer primer on the rockers then Bed Liner
But may just repaint them !

Just had miner rust repair on a wheel well done and they did a great job
They blended my 11 y/o silver spot on !

At 73 years old I do not want to spend 70k$ on a new truck !

My RAM is my weekend driver and car is daily to get grandson

I was using Fluid Film yearly till the shop disappeared like a fart in the wind :O Now use KROWN
I agree 150% on Using Fluid Film , Krown or Wool Wax yearly
I have seen rocker panels bedlined and it looked great.
 

Marshall

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I have seen thick bed liner type of stuff on a couple truck, and it is color matched, or the whole truck was painted?
but details no idea what it was. was a few yrs back. seem to remember it on a light green truck, and red. (maybe) Bodyshop would know.
 

workingman

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Had my 2012 3500 linexed 10 years ago. Just had the Linex renew done to bring some shine back to it , the sun will dull the color over years, but the Linex coating will remain tough as nails. It looks brand new again! Linex from body line down, aftermarket bumpers, Bushwacker fender flares and grille surround. Saved the rockers from chips and scratches as I worked off-road for a living before retirement.
 

Tominator223

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Yep line x if you got the $$$. What ever you want it on should be sanded . 3m used to have a rubberized spray. But it will take a few cans & you want it pretty thick.
 

js12278

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Rams have a double rocket panel. Coating the outside is a bandaid

If you’re not seeing any blistering or rust damage now, get yourself some Woolwax or Fluid Film and spray/undercoat your truck. Coat it in ALL the hidden spots including door panels and into the rocker panels and pillar posts
If you coat the frame like you want to keep it forever and touch it up 2x a year as needed you’ll stop the rust dead in its tracks.
Coating rust with Berliner is a fool’s mask. You’re just hiding what you know is still there.
 
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Rado

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Rams have a double rocket panel. Coating the outside is a bandaid

If you’re not seeing any blistering or rust damage now, get yourself some Woolwax or Fluid Film and spray/undercoat your truck. Coat it in ALL the hidden spots including door panels and into the rocker panels and pillar posts
If you coat the frame like you want to keep it forever and touch it up 2x a year as needed you’ll stop the rust dead in its tracks.
Coating rust with Berliner is a fool’s mask. You’re just hiding what you know is still there.
No rust yet and I did Fluid Film for a few years then the Co. disappeared like a fart in the wind! :O
But now have a Krown dealer spray it !
Ill look into the DIY treatment just staying ahead of the game

Thank you all for your comments a big help !
 
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Jeepwalker

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Yeah, eventyally they will rust out starting from the edges and continuing to the backside.

They DO make a rocker-shootz clear rubberized spray you can put on. Also called Rocker Guard. Clear urethane rubberized coating similar to what a bodyshop would use. HERE. 3M makes a more Pro version but the Dupli-Color sould work fine. I would mask off, do the prep. Then spray some acetone on the paint with a spray gun (to soften the original paint below). One wet coat of acetone spray ...then let it sit a minute to evaporate and immediately spray on the rocker protector. You want a 'chemical bond' ... so softening will allow the rubberized coating to 'bite' or 'melt-in' a bit to the trucks original clearcoat.

But if you just use regular motor oil out of a squirt gun or ZoomSpout (look it up), under or behind your truck's panels, and keep doing it every few yrs (or use any of the lanolin-based oils) ...that alone will keep panels from rotting.

Box. And while you're at it, do the same with your trucks bed wheel arches. Shoot oil up through the gap in front of the rear tires. And the rear area by the rear bumper. Also the lower front. Over the wheel arches it's a good idea to pick the rocks and sand out from the wheel arches (inside) before doing the oiling. But that requires WORK. Making a tool to pick rocks out which get lodge up there. I got a good two handfulls of rocks and debris out of each of my truck's wheel arches. Then I washed out real well on a dry summer day. After a couple days of drying I then oiled the arches. AND ...you need to put some oil on the wheel lip too (the part nearest the wheel). So oil can get whicked 'up' between where the two pieces of metal are spot welded. WHY? B'c Dodge used a sealer about 1/4" up from the wheel lip. So any oil you get up there from the backside WON'T make it through to the lower lip. SO you MUST put some oil on the lower lip to suck-in (capillary action) . Do it a few times repeatedly ......and that will prevent your box wheel lip from rusting.

Tailgate - Inside ...and frontside of lower lip.

Lower front fender area

Frame!
These are box frames and will definitely rot out. Squirt oil in them. The oil will migrate and will prevent rusting. Go to the junk yard and check the frames of those early box-frame trucks. That's what yours will look like in xyz number of years if you don't protect it. Re-do every 3-4 years.

Hemi badge! It would behoove you to remove your truck's front fenders and scrape away the sound deadener on the backside of the hemi badge. Or you WILL have a hole right in the middle of the front fender there after a few yrs. My neighbor's '13 has a big rust hole there you could stick your arm through ...where the badge was!! Once you remove the sound deadener patch, put a gob of grease where the adhesive was. Seriously. Don't wait. Your truck is 11 years old ...so do it this summer before there's a rust hole. While you have your FF's off, you can easily re-do any suspension or manifold work you have been thinking about doing. More than likely your lower ball joints are weak (if they're original). Easy to press new ones in with a free-rented (parts store) press.

Good luck!!

54522-d68443a2a7ab0354f7b678d929769454.jpg

Do all those things and the top of the gas tank support frame and your truck will look great for many more yrs while other '15's are rotted away ...in your area!
 
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Dean2

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Lots of Alberta vehicles have the lower 1/4 of the body painted with color match or contrasting bedliner. It holds up great to gravel etc. Most guys use fluid film like Rust Check, or Krown for actual rust proofing.
 

Sherman Bird

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Yeah, eventyally they will rust out starting from the edges and continuing to the backside.

They DO make a rocker-shootz clear rubberized spray you can put on. Also called Rocker Guard. Clear urethane rubberized coating similar to what a bodyshop would use. HERE. 3M makes a more Pro version but the Dupli-Color sould work fine. I would mask off, do the prep. Then spray some acetone on the paint with a spray gun (to soften the original paint below). One wet coat of acetone spray ...then let it sit a minute to evaporate and immediately spray on the rocker protector. You want a 'chemical bond' ... so softening will allow the rubberized coating to 'bite' or 'melt-in' a bit to the trucks original clearcoat.

But if you just use regular motor oil out of a squirt gun or ZoomSpout (look it up), under or behind your truck's panels, and keep doing it every few yrs (or use any of the lanolin-based oils) ...that alone will keep panels from rotting.

Box. And while you're at it, do the same with your trucks bed wheel arches. Shoot oil up through the gap in front of the rear tires. And the rear area by the rear bumper. Also the lower front. Over the wheel arches it's a good idea to pick the rocks and sand out from the wheel arches (inside) before doing the oiling. But that requires WORK. Making a tool to pick rocks out which get lodge up there. I got a good two handfulls of rocks and debris out of each of my truck's wheel arches. Then I washed out real well on a dry summer day. After a couple days of drying I then oiled the arches. AND ...you need to put some oil on the wheel lip too (the part nearest the wheel). So oil can get whicked 'up' between where the two pieces of metal are spot welded. WHY? B'c Dodge used a sealer about 1/4" up from the wheel lip. So any oil you get up there from the backside WON'T make it through to the lower lip. SO you MUST put some oil on the lower lip to suck-in (capillary action) . Do it a few times repeatedly ......and that will prevent your box wheel lip from rusting.

Tailgate - Inside ...and frontside of lower lip.

Lower front fender area

Frame!
These are box frames and will definitely rot out. Squirt oil in them. The oil will migrate and will prevent rusting. Go to the junk yard and check the frames of those early box-frame trucks. That's what yours will look like in xyz number of years if you don't protect it. Re-do every 3-4 years.

Hemi badge! It would behoove you to remove your truck's front fenders and scrape away the sound deadener on the backside of the hemi badge. Or you WILL have a hole right in the middle of the front fender there after a few yrs. My neighbor's '13 has a big rust hole there you could stick your arm through ...where the badge was!! Once you remove the sound deadener patch, put a gob of grease where the adhesive was. Seriously. Don't wait. Your truck is 11 years old ...so do it this summer before there's a rust hole. While you have your FF's off, you can easily re-do any suspension or manifold work you have been thinking about doing. More than likely your lower ball joints are weak (if they're original). Easy to press new ones in with a free-rented (parts store) press.

Good luck!!

View attachment 585443

Do all those things and the top of the gas tank support frame and your truck will look great for many more yrs while other '15's are rotted away ...in your area!
Man! What a ton of work! Great post! I'm just glad I live in Houston, Texas where rust is NO issue, because I'm about 75 miles inland from the salty Gulf of Mexico/America!
It does get mighty hot, though. Yesterday, it was 104 degrees heat index/80% humidity! Today has been better. I'll take this over salt on roads!
 
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Rado

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Yeah, eventyally they will rust out starting from the edges and continuing to the backside.

They DO make a rocker-shootz clear rubberized spray you can put on. Also called Rocker Guard. Clear urethane rubberized coating similar to what a bodyshop would use. HERE. 3M makes a more Pro version but the Dupli-Color sould work fine. I would mask off, do the prep. Then spray some acetone on the paint with a spray gun (to soften the original paint below). One wet coat of acetone spray ...then let it sit a minute to evaporate and immediately spray on the rocker protector. You want a 'chemical bond' ... so softening will allow the rubberized coating to 'bite' or 'melt-in' a bit to the trucks original clearcoat.

But if you just use regular motor oil out of a squirt gun or ZoomSpout (look it up), under or behind your truck's panels, and keep doing it every few yrs (or use any of the lanolin-based oils) ...that alone will keep panels from rotting.

Box. And while you're at it, do the same with your trucks bed wheel arches. Shoot oil up through the gap in front of the rear tires. And the rear area by the rear bumper. Also the lower front. Over the wheel arches it's a good idea to pick the rocks and sand out from the wheel arches (inside) before doing the oiling. But that requires WORK. Making a tool to pick rocks out which get lodge up there. I got a good two handfulls of rocks and debris out of each of my truck's wheel arches. Then I washed out real well on a dry summer day. After a couple days of drying I then oiled the arches. AND ...you need to put some oil on the wheel lip too (the part nearest the wheel). So oil can get whicked 'up' between where the two pieces of metal are spot welded. WHY? B'c Dodge used a sealer about 1/4" up from the wheel lip. So any oil you get up there from the backside WON'T make it through to the lower lip. SO you MUST put some oil on the lower lip to suck-in (capillary action) . Do it a few times repeatedly ......and that will prevent your box wheel lip from rusting.

Tailgate - Inside ...and frontside of lower lip.

Lower front fender area

Frame!
These are box frames and will definitely rot out. Squirt oil in them. The oil will migrate and will prevent rusting. Go to the junk yard and check the frames of those early box-frame trucks. That's what yours will look like in xyz number of years if you don't protect it. Re-do every 3-4 years.

Hemi badge! It would behoove you to remove your truck's front fenders and scrape away the sound deadener on the backside of the hemi badge. Or you WILL have a hole right in the middle of the front fender there after a few yrs. My neighbor's '13 has a big rust hole there you could stick your arm through ...where the badge was!! Once you remove the sound deadener patch, put a gob of grease where the adhesive was. Seriously. Don't wait. Your truck is 11 years old ...so do it this summer before there's a rust hole. While you have your FF's off, you can easily re-do any suspension or manifold work you have been thinking about doing. More than likely your lower ball joints are weak (if they're original). Easy to press new ones in with a free-rented (parts store) press.

Good luck!!

View attachment 585443

Do all those things and the top of the gas tank support frame and your truck will look great for many more yrs while other '15's are rotted away ...in your area!
GREAT write up Thanks for all the great info
 
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Rado

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Lots of Alberta vehicles have the lower 1/4 of the body painted with color match or contrasting bedliner. It holds up great to gravel etc. Most guys use fluid film like Rust Check, or Krown for actual rust proofing.
I used to use Fluid Film but when I went to get a respray a few years ago the Co. was gone like a fart in the wind :O
I now use KROWN and Love the black coating and it holds up better then FF
 
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