As promised: A report on detail products..

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willee51

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OK, my truck is only about 3-weeks old, so this is the first wax job on her!!

Previously on my last vehicle I use Turtle Wax Liquid Ice. This product went on EASY and buffed off VERY EASY and it could also be applied to black plastic & vinyl. I was completely satisfied with it, except it just did not seem to last as long as I thought it should.

So for this new vehicle I used products suggested here (and before I found Adams products)!
1. Collinite #845 Insulator Wax: went on EASY and buffed-off VERY easy and the truck finish is slick as greased-glass! Only time will tell how it lasts
2. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0: The applicator seems to drag during application and it seemed to take some elbow-grease to buff it off. My 1st impression is that I do not like the effort it takes to use this product. Time will tell if the effort was worth it as far as making the wax job holding up longer that wax by itself.

Will probably try Adams Wax and Sealant next time
 

Pull Ya

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Did you clay bar your truck before you used the Wolfgang 3.0? The only thing I can think of is maybe you put the Wolfgang on a little to heavy. I use the same combination you used and I'm really happy with the results. I hope that the results are what you expected. Your combination should last for about 6-7 months depending on how much you wash your truck and if you leave it outside or in a garage. I'd recommend a good spray detailer after every wash, it will keep your wax job looking good and give you a little more protection inbetween waxes. Let us know how your choice of products lasts under real world conditions.
Jay
 
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willee51

willee51

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Did you clay bar your truck before you used the Wolfgang 3.0? The only thing I can think of is maybe you put the Wolfgang on a little to heavy. I use the same combination you used and I'm really happy with the results. I hope that the results are what you expected. Your combination should last for about 6-7 months depending on how much you wash your truck and if you leave it outside or in a garage. I'd recommend a good spray detailer after every wash, it will keep your wax job looking good and give you a little more protection inbetween waxes. Let us know how your choice of products lasts under real world conditions.
Jay

1. Did not clay-bar as the truck is only 3-weels old and was surprisingly clean, looking at the wax-cloth.
2. Cannot get the wife's car and truck both in the garage, so the truck is parked outside!
3. So far, I have not found a "spray-detailer" that was worth a "hoot"! (will look on the Adams site)
4. Have some Adams Interior Cleaner, but have not had the quality-time to really do a fair test of this product (but any day now)

Thanks for the reply!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Chewy

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You'd be surprised how many brand new cars need clayed! ALWAYS do the baggy test! Claying allows your LSP to last longer because it adheres to the paint and not the dirt.

Adams Detail Spray is what made Adams what they are today. Detail spray should only be used on a clean vehicle though. If it's dusty, use their waterless wash first followed by the detail spray. Waterless wash encapsulates the dust and insulates the paint from it.

Remember, 110% guarantee! Nothing to lose and only something to gain!

Personally, I only buy in gallons. I use 16oz just to clay my car.


Sent from my iDevice using data nodes and algorithms.
 
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willee51

willee51

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You'd be surprised how many brand new cars need clayed! ALWAYS do the baggy test! Claying allows your LSP to last longer because it adheres to the paint and not the dirt.

Adams Detail Spray is what made Adams what they are today. Detail spray should only be used on a clean vehicle though. If it's dusty, use their waterless wash first followed by the detail spray. Waterless wash encapsulates the dust and insulates the paint from it.

Remember, 110% guarantee! Nothing to lose and only something to gain!

Personally, I only buy in gallons. I use 16oz just to clay my car.


Sent from my iDevice using data nodes and algorithms.

Thanks!

I did order some Adams Tire shine-stuff to try :cheers:
 

Chewy

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SVRT? Love me some SVRT! Remember, when using it on rubber and plastic trim, do the whole car, then follow up with a dry MF towel and buff off the excess. Too much and it'll run in heavy rain. It's completely paint safe, but can look smeary. It does wipe right off paint and glass with a dry MF towel though.

Now's the time to buy up! Memorial Day sale is going on!!


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willee51

willee51

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2013 SLT Crew 4x4, 8-spd, Cherry Red
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OK, my truck is only about 3-weeks old, so this is the first wax job on her!!

Previously on my last vehicle I use Turtle Wax Liquid Ice. This product went on EASY and buffed off VERY EASY and it could also be applied to black plastic & vinyl. I was completely satisfied with it, except it just did not seem to last as long as I thought it should.

So for this new vehicle I used products suggested here (and before I found Adams products)!
1. Collinite #845 Insulator Wax: went on EASY and buffed-off VERY easy and the truck finish is slick as greased-glass! Only time will tell how it lasts
2. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0: The applicator seems to drag during application and it seemed to take some elbow-grease to buff it off. My 1st impression is that I do not like the effort it takes to use this product. Time will tell if the effort was worth it as far as making the wax job holding up longer that wax by itself.

Will probably try Adams Wax and Sealant next time
--------------------------------

OK! AN update: :badidea:

The Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0, is in my opinion "CRAP". Seems everything, pollen, dust, dirt is sticking to the "stuff". I did not apply it to the roof, as I was going to that today, and yes, the roof is "free & clear" of road grime!

Should have tried "Adams". Will toss the Wolfgang crap (and YES, I followed the instructions to the "letter")
 

Pull Ya

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Sorry your having a problem with the Wolfgang 3.0. Needless to say I have had a different experience than you are having. I hope you find something that better suits your needs.
Jay
 

Stangshcky12

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I think I have a bottle of the insulator wax in my cabinet and wasn't to thrilled with the longevity of it but I had never sealed it either
 

Chewy

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--------------------------------

OK! AN update: :badidea:

The Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0, is in my opinion "CRAP". Seems everything, pollen, dust, dirt is sticking to the "stuff". I did not apply it to the roof, as I was going to that today, and yes, the roof is "free & clear" of road grime!

Should have tried "Adams". Will toss the Wolfgang crap (and YES, I followed the instructions to the "letter")

Keep in mind that after waxing, you can build a static charge on your paint. Adams Quick Sealant is notorious for this due to the way it cures. Something about the molecular chains bonding, blah blah blah... lol I find using Adams Waterless Wash after letting the product cure removes the static charge and keeps the vehicle cleaner, longer. You can use water, but you run the risk of imparting damage into the paint. Adams Waterless Wash is designed to encapsulate the dust and dirt and insulate it from the paint and when used with their Waterless Wash towels which have pockets for the dust to go, it keeps the paint perfect!

Sealants HAVE to cure though and some are longer than others. Adams Quick Sealant needs about 30 minutes to cure, but their Machine Super Sealant needs around 12 hours to fully cure before using the above method or toping with the carnuba of your choice!

Also, before applying any sealant, I use a 50/50 mix of Isopropyl Alcohol and water and do a wipe down of all the panels. I want my panels free of everything before putting my sealant down. This is another reason why you clay your paint; so the sealant or wax bonds to the paint and not the dirt.

Remember, you get out of your paint, what you put into it.

Cheers!
Chris
 
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WhiteExpress

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I have found that even using my poor mans (Mother's 3 phase wax) that the sealer/glaze (Phase II) is a dirty rotten SOB to buff off. That being said, man, the truck has a whole new depth to the paint. I'm doing it a panel at a time, because I don't have the time to dedicate to trying to clay / 3 step the whole truck at once.

The cab has been done, the bed, not yet. The bed looks ***** white and the cab is pure sexy glossy deep shine. I really feel bad for not doing it earlier in the trucks life.
 

Chewy

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I have found that even using my poor mans (Mother's 3 phase wax) that the sealer/glaze (Phase II) is a dirty rotten SOB to buff off. That being said, man, the truck has a whole new depth to the paint. I'm doing it a panel at a time, because I don't have the time to dedicate to trying to clay / 3 step the whole truck at once.

The cab has been done, the bed, not yet. The bed looks ***** white and the cab is pure sexy glossy deep shine. I really feel bad for not doing it earlier in the trucks life.

Sealers can be a sumbitch to apply and remove. That's what is SO nice about Adams Quick Sealant. Easy on, easy off, doesn't leave ANY white residue and can actually be wiped over rubber and vinyl and MAN does it last! A glaze will need to be topped with a carnuba based wax for longevity. Keep in mind, a hard past wax doesn't need to cure. Do a couple of panels at a time and remove. If you let them haze over, they're like concrete.

Chris
 
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