Audio upgrade help

[regal81455]

Why full range over component speakers?

Being the stock setup doesn't mean it was right for the vehicle. Don't get me wrong; components have their place but as mentioned above, why hamstring yourself to specific frequencies when you can have them all and adjust them to optimal volume levels for your particular music taste and your particular hearing.

Now if you don't get a DSP ( which IMO would be a mistake ) then a passive x'd over set of speakers is fine but even still I'd be willing to bet your HU you choose probably has active Xovers anyways again making the passive set moot - it's just extra stuff that has to be stuffed into the door ( or w/e ) and more wire. Passive Xovers are old school.

Real issue is alot of people buy equipment, get it installed, and then get the "itch" for more and if you properly plan then you provide yourself with a platform that is ready to be improved upon as your $$$ and desire sees fit. The alternative is to start over. Like alot of things, spend a little extra now so you can save a lot more later.

 

[crazykid1994]

Alright so if I run the kicker key amps it’ll put me 80$ more and those have built in dsp. I think I may go that route. The kicker key sub amp is 300 watts at 2 ohm and the 4 channel is 50x4 at 4 ohm. Same as the Rockford I was looking at. The kenwood excellon speakers are “up to 100 watt” and the jl sub is “up to 500 watt”

 

[regal81455]

The K-Key would be fine for the whatever four full rangers you decide upon but I'd skip that mono key personally. You're leaving 200w easy on the table and could save the same $80 your talking about by going with something like this...

Kenwood Excelon X502-1

X Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

Keep in mind, JL is notorious for under rating their subs handling power. It probably could sustain 750w pretty easily if it's properly tuned. Headroom is REAL. Always look to push a 10-15% more than what the speaker is rated for, then adjust your gain to the proper level. That is the key to good, clean, tight music.

 

[crazykid1994]

The K-Key would be fine for the whatever four full rangers you decide upon but I'd skip that mono key personally. You're leaving 200w easy on the table and could save the same $80 your talking about by going with something like this...

Kenwood Excelon X502-1

X Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

Keep in mind, JL is notorious for under rating their subs handling power. It probably could sustain 750w pretty easily if it's properly tuned. Headroom is REAL. Always look to push a 10-15% more than what the speaker is rated for, then adjust your gain to the proper level. That is the key to good, clean, tight music.

Ok. So sorry for this but why no dsp for the sub? I’m not super familiar with this. Hence all the posts and researching different stuff. First time doing car audio

 

[regal81455]

No worries man - I could write a book about this stuff or start a company consulting people ha ha

I would prefer you run the sub through a DSP ( why I suggested the AC d6.1200 ) but it isn't entirely necessary. Sub frequencies don't really understand space like the higher frequencies do. In most cases, the frequencies from a sub sound like they are all around you ( or atleast it should if properly tuned ) where as mids and highs tend to be directional.

If you feel like the sub is coming from w/e direction it is installed at then you've got a bad tune.

So with all that said, the sub can be tuned independently from the mids/highs pretty easily.

NOTE: Please please please w/e you do; do not use speaker level outputs - ALWAYS use RCAs to the amplifiers from your HU. Just cleaner, more efficient power.

 

[regal81455]

Subs are generally more forgiving when it comes to the frequencies they operate at VS mids / highs which can really be off putting ( think distortion ) vs super clear at high volumes. The DSP would be the difference as you can adjust each freq to a level that is pleasant to the ear.

EZ analogy for you.

In the old days, we had EQs - they cover the same frequencies but it was all or none for the SYSTEM at each freq.

DSPs are fancy EQs - they let you dial in the frequencies the same but now it's at each individual speaker.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

This is what I installed in my 19' less than six months back and it is incredible.
If you like rock and country and some tunes with base, then I recommend Focal speakers.

I went with their 2-way set up for the dash and front doors and their 3-way's for the rear doors.

The Kenwood head unit is out of this world for functionality and being able to dial in ones sound, including crossover setting.

The Kenwood 5-channel amp and the single 10" Audiomobile EVO sub at 2ohm in a sealed box (stuffed with poly-fil) pounds hard and clear under the rear passenger seat.

Now FFWD to today, and I just ordered up another 10" sub (the exact same one) and another sealed box (this one goes under the rear seat on the drivers side). Another Kenwood amp (monoblock this time @ 500W RMS), and a 4 farad cap, too.

Then my system will be complete and will really light it up.

 

[crazykid1994]

Alright. This should be the last step in my thought process. I found an alpine 8 channel instead of running the 2 kicker key amps. 6 channels 50 watt at 4 ohms and 2 channels 300 watt at 2 ohms. What are your thoughts. It’s got DSP. Built in hi low bypass and has the ability to adjust EQ for each channel separate. I can wire in full range 3.5” dash speakers and 2 way 6x9 in the back doors. Should I run 2 way or just woofers in the front doors?. All kenwood excellon speakers.

 

[regal81455]

Just now seeing your last post @crazykid1994 - did you move forward with the Alpine?

 

[crazykid1994]

Just now seeing your last post @crazykid1994 - did you move forward with the Alpine?

Not yet. Have had other things come up. Actually looking at the jl audio amp if the kicker key amps don’t come back in stock though. Also most likely going with the kicker ks series speakers instead of kenwood.

 

[regal81455]

Right on - well was just curious if you had what you thought about everything? Keep us posted!

 

[woojyee]

I had that same stealthbox in my 2014 and even used in it my 2020. It sounds really good but make sure your giving it 450 to 500w rms. It comes alive at that power. I used a JL Audio XD 5/700 v2. Rated at 75wx4 and 300x1 it actually did 100wx4 and 450w at the sub. I had JL Audio c3-600 for mids and highs. For the front, the tweeters were in the 3.5" dash locations and mid bass in the door, rear used them as coaxial sets. Sounded pretty good!