Audio upgrade help

[crazykid1994]

Alright guys. This is very new to me. I have the base audio system in my truck. Truck came with the ra1 3” radio that I swapped to the ra2 5” radio shortly after buying the truck. Added the factory backup camera and steering wheel audio controls so looking to keep those functions. I’m finally looking into upgrading the stereo system but I’m looking at piecing it together. I am currently looking at the jl audio stealth sub box with the w3v3 subwoofer from Crutchfield and a 5 channel amp. Most likely the Rockford fosgate r2 750x5 amp. I am not set on the head unit and have no clue on what to do for speakers. I’m not sure as I’ve seen mentioned about rewiring the dash speakers separate from the doors or using bass blockers. I am not familiar with the different brands for speakers either. I am trying to keep a low to medium budget as I’m not an audiophile. Just want better clearer sound with a nice bass. The majority of my music is rock and country. What are some good speaker options and some pointers for the front doors and dash speakers. Also what head units are the better ones. I wouldn’t mind CarPlay but definitely looking for something fairly simple. I’ve seen some have the canbus compatibility to read and display engine stats.

 

[crazykid1994]

Alright so I think I’m narrowed down to 3 head units. Looking for pros and cons on these.

 

[healthyrx]

I am also not an audiophile but in my experience with truck speakers (my 2003 ford 6.0 only had 4 speakers and my brothers 2007 ford 6.0 also only had 4 speakers) even just a moderate spend + amp is a dramatic upgrade. When I bought speakers for those vehicles, I think i spent ~$100 per speaker and ~400 on a 4 channel amp. My only conern with your truck that I wouldn't know how to account for-so hopefully someone else can chime in would be whether you need a DSP of any sort with the base sound system to be able to get the full utilization out of it

 

[crazykid1994]

Alright. So looking at fronts possibly?


And rears?

 

[LeeD]

Since you’re replacing the head unit I don’t think you’ll need a DSP. I could be wrong but I believe the DSP comes in when you upgrade the system and leave the stock head unit. Any quality speakers will make a huge improvement in sound. Kickers are very popular.
I wish I’d have replaced my head unit when I upgraded my truck.

 

[IDSandman]

I did a low to medium budget build in my truck. I absolutely had to have hard tight tight bass, clean crisp highs and solid clear mids as I am really picky about audio. Used to build high end home theaters and sound systems for a living. Car audio for fun on the side. I ended up going with a kicker key 200.1 up front set to bi amp for a set of Kenwood Excelon speakers with the dash rewired. The kicker key has a built in dsp which was a must.
I then added kicker kS 2 way in the rear doors powered off the deck as they are just fill.
Fox single 10” ported box with a sundown 10” sub powered by a kicker key 500.1 amp ran mono so getting all 500 amps to the sub. Sound treated all doors and, pan of back seat and back wall.
This system absolutely cranks out super hard hitting clean music. I was around 2k for all components.
I have now installed this same system in a few buddies trucks who wanted an upgraded system and were blown away by it.

Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6903C

Excelon Series 6"x9" component speaker system for select Chrysler and Toyota vehicles

www.crutchfield.com

 

[crazykid1994]

I did a low to medium budget build in my truck. I absolutely had to have hard tight tight bass, clean crisp highs and solid clear mids as I am really picky about audio. Used to build high end home theaters and sound systems for a living. Car audio for fun on the side. I ended up going with a kicker key 200.1 up front set to bi amp for a set of Kenwood Excelon speakers with the dash rewired. The kicker key has a built in dsp which was a must.
I then added kicker kS 2 way in the rear doors powered off the deck as they are just fill.
Fox single 10” ported box with a sundown 10” sub powered by a kicker key 500.1 amp ran mono so getting all 500 amps to the sub. Sound treated all doors and, pan of back seat and back wall.
This system absolutely cranks out super hard hitting clean music. I was around 2k for all components.
I have now installed this same system in a few buddies trucks who wanted an upgraded system and were blown away by it.

Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6903C

Excelon Series 6"x9" component speaker system for select Chrysler and Toyota vehicles

www.crutchfield.com

Can you explain what benefits I get to separating the dash and front doors? That’s the exact front door and dash speakers I’m looking at. Was trying to figure out if it would be better to rewire the dash speakers and run a 6 channel with a dedicated amp for the sub but that puts me up on cost going that route. The Rockford fosgate r2 has a dedicated subwoofer channel at 350w which is why I was leaning that way and just running bass blockers on the dash speakers. I was definitely leaning towards the kickers in the rear doors but not sure how mixing speakers will do

 

[crazykid1994]

Alright so a ton of research and this is what I’ve come up with.
Head unit


5 channel amp


Front door and dash speakers


Rear doors


Under rear seat sub box with sub

 

[IDSandman]

For the fronts you want them separated as to get full benefit from an amp, not sharing ohms as well as the key amp will listen to each speaker and determine where the highs and lows go. No need for bass blockers.
350 is pretty low for a sub amp. 500 is my minimum since subs want their peak amperage to operate efficiently.

 

[healthyrx]

I agree with @IDSandman
If you can get separate amps for speakers and sub you’ll get much better performance from both.
You can also get a much more powerful mono amp for driving a subwoofer for less money than a similar rms 5 channel

 

[TomT]

Since you’re replacing the head unit I don’t think you’ll need a DSP. I could be wrong but I believe the DSP comes in when you upgrade the system and leave the stock head unit. Any quality speakers will make a huge improvement in sound. Kickers are very popular.
I wish I’d have replaced my head unit when I upgraded my truck.

That’s not really correct. A DSP (Digital Signal Processor) will take the left and right outputs of whatever head unit you have (OEM or aftermarket) and allow you to process it before sending to the amps.

The main functions of a DSP are as a crossover (splitting frequencies) and to do time alignment so the sound reaches your ears at the same time even though some of the speakers are different distances from you.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Alright so a ton of research and this is what I’ve come up with.

Good choices.

 

[crazykid1994]

Good choices.

So I’m torn between speakers. I found the matching rears for the kenwood excellon speakers and the matching fronts for the kicker ks. There are not many audio shops by me anymore so I’m unable to hear either speaker to decide what I want. I built speaker enclosures with kicker cs component speakers a while back that came with 1” tweeters and they sound pretty good but I have no comparison. Also the kenwoods use a larger tweeter in the dash than the kicker kit.

 

[LeeD]

That’s not really correct. A DSP (Digital Signal Processor) will take the left and right outputs of whatever head unit you have (OEM or aftermarket) and allow you to process it before sending to the amps.

The main functions of a DSP are as a crossover (splitting frequencies) and to do time alignment so the sound reaches your ears at the same time even though some of the speakers are different distances from you.

That is true but the original poster wanted to keep the costs down and stated he wasn’t an audiophile.

 

[IDSandman]

That is true but the original poster wanted to keep the costs down and stated he wasn’t an audiophile.

Why I suggested the kicker key with built in dsp.

 

[DILLIGAF]

So I’m torn between speakers.

I dont run rears, its useless with the 2 type R 12s I have back there

I just spent way more for Focal components up front

 

[crazykid1994]

I dont run rears, its useless with the 2 type R 12s I have back there

I just spent way more for Focal components up front

I’m honestly leaning towards the kenwoods. Reviews I’m seeing say they are really clear with rock and country. The kickers do to but seem to be aimed a bit towards more base over kenwoods. With the single 10 rear sub I think I’ll be fine as I don’t need all the base. I’m going to research running the kicker amps that were posted over the 5 channel Rockford. The head unit I’m looking at has built in time correction and a built in dac so I won’t need a separate dsp which makes the 5 channel a decent option

 

[regal81455]

IMO I'd be looking for a full range set of 6x9s for the doors and then a separate set of full rangers for the dash. I don't see what the benefit would be from separating the frequencies in those locations.

Maybe it was just a mistake but a DAC is not the same as a DSP so this is going to impact my opinion above.

If the HU has a DSP or you add one, then the full range speakers are the way to go because you'll be able to dial in the frequency attenuation as needed for each speaker individually. Generally HUs don't have DSPs built in though. Modern HUs do tend to have time alignment and volume attentuation for individual speakers. Some adjustment but nowhere near the level of a quality dsp.

IF the HU doesn't have a DSP or your not going to add one, then you MIGHT gain something from a passive xover set of speakers simply cause you'll be limiting the amount of volume coming from frequencies the xover cancels out hence less distortion = better SQ at louder volumes.

 

[regal81455]

I might suggest you consider this amp....personally I'm a big fan. I run it + a Kenwood 600rms monoblock.
I run six speakers off the AC, 3 speakers off the HU, and a pair of JL 10" thins off the monoblock.

D-6.1200 - AudioControl

www.audiocontrol.com

You could run the front dash, front doors, & a 400w sub off it; then run the rear doors off the HU and balance everything with the built in DSP. Then when money allows add a second mono block amp ( of any size and brand ) for the sub ( which could remain the same or even be upgraded as well ) and now use the bridged pair for the rear doors. Then all six speakers + the sub are running through the DSP and the amount of tuning is basically endless.

Here's the layout for reference.

 

[crazykid1994]

I might suggest you consider this amp....personally I'm a big fan. I run it + a Kenwood 600rms monoblock.
I run six speakers off the AC, 3 speakers off the HU, and a pair of JL 10" thins off the monoblock.

D-6.1200 - AudioControl

www.audiocontrol.com

You could run the front dash, front doors, & a 400w sub off it; then run the rear doors off the HU and balance everything with the built in DSP. Then when money allows add a second mono block amp ( of any size and brand ) for the sub ( which could remain the same or even be upgraded as well ) and now use the bridged pair for the rear doors. Then all six speakers + the sub are running through the DSP and the amount of tuning is basically endless.

Here's the layout for reference.


View attachment 522925

Why full range over component speakers? The stock setup is component front door and dash with 2 way rear so I was going to just go back that way. Keeps it easier to wire on my end. No the HU does not have a dsp but the time correction at least is a plus. Also the tweeters in the component kit have a high pass crossover built inline and the woofer has an included low pass. It’s a speaker combo designed for the trucks and other similar setups which is why I’m leaning that way. Not looking for competition quality. Really just a decent system with more base and better clarity over stock.