Shelton90
Senior Member
I posted this in another section and didn’t get any replies, how much axle play is acceptable? I got a horrible rattle I’m trying to track down linked to headers or this, I’m lost.
Axle play
- Thread starter Shelton90
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pacofortacos
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Mine is the same, I just checked for you.
But not as rusty - yet.
THAT being said, the next time that it is up on ramps, I am going to fill them full of grease with my needle fitting for the grease gun.
But not as rusty - yet.
THAT being said, the next time that it is up on ramps, I am going to fill them full of grease with my needle fitting for the grease gun.
dale197338
Senior Member
Holy **** that's way more then mine. I would put money on the splines being worn out
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pacofortacos
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It rattles more than mine, but I don't know if there's that much more movement - it was hard to tell from laying outside of the tire 
He could pump his full of grease and that should quiet it down some IF that is his rattle.
He could pump his full of grease and that should quiet it down some IF that is his rattle.
Easy fix https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Dodge-Ram-1...829675?hash=item48deeeaf2b:g:OpEAAOSw7xlfW7TT
I would skip all that crap and find a 2006 to 2010 front diff instead . Its way better build unlike the crap on these 2012 +
Will cost the same and you end up with a better diff up front. Im doing a 2008 diff swap right now on mine. https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2008-to-2012-front-diff-swap-4-56-gears.173962/page-7#post-2464042
I would skip all that crap and find a 2006 to 2010 front diff instead . Its way better build unlike the crap on these 2012 +
Will cost the same and you end up with a better diff up front. Im doing a 2008 diff swap right now on mine. https://www.ramforum.com/threads/2008-to-2012-front-diff-swap-4-56-gears.173962/page-7#post-2464042
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Shelton90
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stimpy433
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I had a rattle, and then no shelled out the splines. I believe the C clips broke and that was the cause of the failure.
Wild one
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The earlier AAM diff isn't exactly a cheap / easy bolt in unless you have a complete parts truck to scavenge all the brackets / mounts / driveshaft etc. from,like you did. If you're buying everything new from the dealer,your ass is gonna pucker,lol. You forgot to mention that part,lol.
Wild one
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You don't have to buy a new housing anymore,these guys have a rebuild kit for the supposedly non-servicable axle now.
(3) Dodge Front Axle Repair and Replacement, Rick Roods Transmission - YouTube
Dodge Ram 1500 Intermediate Shaft RHS 2012-up | eBay
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Rick and Rods kit is 600$ and you still a new intermediate outputs shaft and 2 new front CVs , I just looked a few months ago and a front 8.0" IFS diff from a Wrecker are all in the 500$ range and a couple of hundreds for the brackets and front Driveshaft. the IFS 8.0" CV shaft are also cheaper.
Or take your time and find a dude on FB Marketplace that has a parts truck at his house.
So if you just keep the same gear ratio it will literally just cost you a few extra hundos to have a 10x better front diff.
Don't forget you can sell your front diff once the swap is done. I got 450$ for mine...lol..
Wild one
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Rick and Rods kit is 600$ and you still a new intermediate outputs shaft and 2 new front CVs , I just looked a few months ago and a front 8.0" IFS diff from a Wrecker are all in the 500$ range and a couple of hundreds for the brackets and front Driveshaft. the IFS 8.0" CV shaft are also cheaper.
Or take your time and find a dude on FB Marketplace that has a parts truck at his house.
So if you just keep the same gear ratio it will literally just cost you a few extra hundos to have a 10x better front diff.
Don't forget you can sell your front diff once the swap is done. I got 450$ for mine...lol..
You're not factoring in the labour costs as most guys won't tackle the front diff swap themselves,and the labour to swap all the brackets and motor mount are fairly high. By the time you're done doing it properly with everything new plus labour you're looking at a couple thousand more to put the early style AAM diff in place ,compared to rebuilding the existing ZF diff. The odds on finding an earlier wrecked truck with all the brackets etc. in good enough shape to source everything from are getting lower by the day. By going with the Rick Roods axle rebuild and new CV's you're basically back to a new diff and axles that doesn't require any fabricating. And is an R&R job that any shop will tackle,finding a shop that'll take on swapping in the earlier AAM diff could be another challenge,as these days finding shops interested in doing that kind of swap is also getting harder to find. You're not out of line at all,as the earlier diff is probably the better diff,but whether it's cost justifiable for the average owner is a tough call,as the majority of 4X4 trucks even on here are more pavement princess's that might use the 4X4 once or twice in the winter.The majority of the time the average 4X4 truck spends in 2 wheel drive mode. I'd hazard a guess less then 10% of the trucks need gears deeper then 3.92's to compensate for tires,so to justify the costs involved with a proper AAM swap are questionable,especially if you figure the rebuilt ZF diff/axles will probably out live the truck. While the earlier AAM diff swap doesn't add any value to the truck at resale or trade in time,it might actually devalue the truck,as alot of people worry about buying a modded used vehicle,and shy away from something that's been modified.I do agree though the earlier diff is the better diff,but justifiable for the average owner not so sure about,lol
If you cant figure out how to swap a diff you should drive a minivan and wear crocks...lol... Its like a dozen bolts... lol...
Thats a joke BTW.... I know most people dont have the tools... But looking on how much shop charges these days its literally cheaper to buy top of the line tools and DIY.
Thats a joke BTW.... I know most people dont have the tools... But looking on how much shop charges these days its literally cheaper to buy top of the line tools and DIY.
Wild one
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Look at the amount of guys on here that don't even do their own oil changes,lol. You're right though,there's 7 bolts on the diff,2 big axle nuts and 2 lower ball joint nuts to pull the diff out,so 11 ,close enough to a dozen to round it up to a dozen,lol. Only the 3 on the top of the diff are a bit nasty to get to,especially if you've got long tubes on the truck.I swear those top 3 bolts are long enough to jack the front tires off the ground,and the sumbitch at FCA that's way to handy with the loctite on those 3 bolts, i'd like to have a chat with,lol
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Shelton90
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So what’s the noises you guys that have upgraded have eliminated? My truck is no princess, I’m a big hunter and if the levee gets bad it’s in 4x4 all hunting season. I can’t get in a bind and not have 4x4. But this damn noise is driving me crazy I’m hoping it’s that
