Best reducer for hitch 2.5 to 2 inch. And why did Ram go with 2.5 on this gen?

[Bunchgrass]

Hey all. New here. Own a 2000 2500 Quad LB 4x4 NV5600 Cummins and a 2017 2500 6.7 Cummins. It frosts me that Ram decided to go with a 2.5 in receiver so now I need to find an adapter to use the hitch to haul things use 2 in tubing (racks). Anyone know of a good one? I read that they fit sloppy yet also manage to get stuck. Thanks.

 

[Dean2]

All of them came with a reducer from the factory. Should be somewhere in the truck. Mine was in the driver's side underfloor bin in the back seat.

 

[2003F350]

All of them came with a reducer from the factory. Should be somewhere in the truck. Mine was in the driver's side underfloor bin in the back seat.

Unless the previous owner kept it because they were going to Ford or GM, which DON'T always come with one, even factory. FIL bought a brand-new '19 and '22 SD that didn't come with an adapter, his '23 did, however.

My '17 came with one, as did my '22. Honestly I don't hear them rattle, unless I hit a BIG bump (rail road tracks or the like), even with them fitting loose. Doesn't matter if I'm pulling a trailer or not.

I also use it when pulling our camper, or when they had it my in-law's 'park model' trailer, and haven't had any issues or signs of damage/wear. My biggest problem is rust because I leave it in year-round.

As for WHY they went to the 2.5" receiver, it has to do with ratings - a 2" Class IV receiver is only rated to 10k standard, 14k with a WDH, whereas a 2.5" Class V receiver is typically rated to 12k standard, and 17k with a WDH. With the ability of these newer trucks to pull the weights they can, the 2.5" hitch was necessary, or the 'tow rating' would have been heavily impacted.

 

[62Blazer]

My '16 came from the factory with a reducer and it fits pretty snug. Even with no rust you have to wiggle and tap on it to get it in and out. I would at least price out the Mopar version at a dealership and see how it compares to aftermarket versions....the dealership is not always the most expensive. Just did a quick look on Amazon and it lists a Mopar version for $31 where the generic ones are $16 to $20....on one side it is a lot more expensive, but on the other side it's only $11... There's not much to these and the only difference would be the fit (slop) and maybe how well the paint/finish holds up. Generally the OEM stuff is better in those regards.

 

[jvbuttex]

As for WHY they went to the 2.5" receiver, it has to do with ratings - a 2" Class IV receiver is only rated to 10k standard, 14k with a WDH, whereas a 2.5" Class V receiver is typically rated to 12k standard, and 17k with a WDH. With the ability of these newer trucks to pull the weights they can, the 2.5" hitch was necessary, or the 'tow rating' would have been heavily impacted.

exactly... we all like the increased towing capacity.

 

[chri5k]

Use an anti-rattle clamp with the reducer. Adding the reducer adds more slop to the receiver hitch setup. The anti-rattle clamp will take up all the slop.

 

[buckeyexx]

I would order an oem one because the ones you can get from local automotive stores don't seem to line up very well with the pin holes. Should be able to find one on amazon or ebay. Probably cheaper than going to dealership. Or you can always just buy a 2.5in shank and you wont need the sleeve but thats the costly route.

 

[Dean2]

I bought drawbars and recover pins with the 2.5" shaft. I keep the reducer in the truck just in case, but for the small price difference I would rather have the extra towing capacity and good fitting drawbars, recover shackles etc.

 

[2003F350]

I bought drawbars and recover pins with the 2.5" shaft. I keep the reducer in the truck just in case, but for the small price difference I would rather have the extra towing capacity and good fitting drawbars, recover shackles etc.

I mean yes, if you're actually going to be towing heavy, the 2.5" shank is nice. But for those of us who won't ever be putting that much weight on that receiver, buying more expensive shanks when a reducer would work just fine is throwing away good money.

 

[Bunchgrass]

I mean yes, if you're actually going to be towing heavy, the 2.5" shank is nice. But for those of us who won't ever be putting that much weight on that receiver, buying more expensive shanks when a reducer would work just fine is throwing away good money.

My problem is already having multiple 2 in shaft hitches w various drops for different equipment as a result of my older 2000 Dodge 2500. I really don't want to have 2 sets depending on which pickup will be in use.

 

[dhay13]

I got a Ford adapter f0r mine so I lost about 20 HP

 

[RichieW13]

Does anybody else have trouble with the adapter getting stuck in the receiver?

I think the pin is causing a bit of a raised edge in the receiver hole that grabs onto the adapter.

 

[WY-Dave]

WallyWorld Reese

 

[nlambert182]

You can also buy the Reese reducer at Home Depot. I lost mine on my 3500 while we were out on the road and snagged one there in a pinch. Worked just fine.

 

[2003F350]

I got a Ford adapter f0r mine so I lost about 20 HP

HAHAHAH!

Does anybody else have trouble with the adapter getting stuck in the receiver?

I think the pin is causing a bit of a raised edge in the receiver hole that grabs onto the adapter.

Not really. Mine only gets stuck if I don't take it out part way through the winter and spray some type of rust inhibitor on it.

 

[GTyankee]

you own a larger truck, but you don't have a $15 grinder or at least 800 grit emory paper ?

Just kidding
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