BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 Tires

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ram1500rsm

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Those are P rated tires, SL,XL define the load rating, useuful for a hwy application that will handle some weigth, if you working on the field or doing offroad, you want the heavier/thicker sidewall LT tires will provide, C D or E, with the last one being the more heavy duty. I’m running the Falken AT3W E rated in 315/70/17, and they’re heavier than KO2s on the same size, with wheels, they’re pushing 100lbs per corner, I have zero issues riding harsh, currently running them at 36psi, even though Discount Tires insist pumping 46 or 50psi every time I get tire rotations, I’m not hauling anything, and they wearing down ok at 36 where I get a nice contact patch.

KO2’s are great tires, I had them in my Jeep, and pushed 80k miles with them, even doing rocky trails, same size I have now in the truck, managed snow like champs, ate the highway in comfort at 30psi, you have to run low psi in the Jeeps, just the nature of the beast :)

I don’t know why some of you were/are having so much issues with them riding harsh/bouncing, perhaps the lower sidewall you’re getting with 20” wheels?, not so fresh shocks?, I had zero issues with them and 17” wheels with a taller sidewall though, my Jeep with all the mods I had and heavy armor to run the rocks was pushing 5000+lbs, so it was almost as heavy as a full size pickup truck, rode like s caddy at 80mph, except when the wind was blowing hard, lol, that’s where lifted Jeeps go to hell, and you have to be an octopus behind the well to keep them straight hahaha.
 

corneileous

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Those are P rated tires, SL,XL define the load rating, useuful for a hwy application that will handle some weigth, if you working on the field or doing offroad, you want the heavier/thicker sidewall LT tires will provide, C D or E, with the last one being the more heavy duty. I’m running the Falken AT3W E rated in 315/70/17, and they’re heavier than KO2s on the same size, with wheels, they’re pushing 100lbs per corner, I have zero issues riding harsh, currently running them at 36psi, even though Discount Tires insist pumping 46 or 50psi every time I get tire rotations, I’m not hauling anything, and they wearing down ok at 36 where I get a nice contact patch.

KO2’s are great tires, I had them in my Jeep, and pushed 80k miles with them, even doing rocky trails, same size I have now in the truck, managed snow like champs, ate the highway in comfort at 30psi, you have to run low psi in the Jeeps, just the nature of the beast :)

I don’t know why some of you were/are having so much issues with them riding harsh/bouncing, perhaps the lower sidewall you’re getting with 20” wheels?, not so fresh shocks?, I had zero issues with them and 17” wheels with a taller sidewall though, my Jeep with all the mods I had and heavy armor to run the rocks was pushing 5000+lbs, so it was almost as heavy as a full size pickup truck, rode like s caddy at 80mph, except when the wind was blowing hard, lol, that’s where lifted Jeeps go to hell, and you have to be an octopus behind the well to keep them straight hahaha.

I don’t know if it matters or not but according to both tire rack and discount tire, the only tires that’s being talked about in this discussion that are actually a “P” rated tire is them Goodyear SRA’s that comes on our Ram 1500s at the factory.

But you’re running 36psi in them 10 ply Falken 35s? What do they say you should be running those at? I dunno, maybe bfg was just blowin’ smoke up my freckle with that whole 55psi thing but that’s what they said to run my 8-ply, 275/60s at, and that running them at the factory spec pressure for the Goodyear’s was dangerously low, and at severe risk of catastrophic tire failure. I will say, that at 39psi, they actually didn’t ride too terribly bad- mind you, I do have the four-corner air ride so that might have attributed to that but, they did ride ok. They also did a good job of taking out all reasonable doubt that you moved up to a light-truck tire but were doable, I guess. But, they did feel awful sloppy though. It wasn’t until consulting with bfg and filling them to 55psi when they all the sudden felt as good as the SRA’s did on acceleration, braking and cornering so I guess bfg knew what they was talking about, at least on that part.

But maybe it is kind of due to the lower profile sidewall on the twenties. My truck is still brand new, 14,000 on the clock. Air ride so it can’t be that.


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ram1500rsm

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I don’t know if it matters or not but according to both tire rack and discount tire, the only tires that’s being talked about in this discussion that are actually a “P” rated tire is them Goodyear SRA’s that comes on our Ram 1500s at the factory.

But you’re running 36psi in them 10 ply Falken 35s? What do they say you should be running those at? I dunno, maybe bfg was just blowin’ smoke up my freckle with that whole 55psi thing but that’s what they said to run my 8-ply, 275/60s at, and that running them at the factory spec pressure for the Goodyear’s was dangerously low, and at severe risk of catastrophic tire failure. I will say, that at 39psi, they actually didn’t ride too terribly bad- mind you, I do have the four-corner air ride so that might have attributed to that but, they did ride ok. They also did a good job of taking out all reasonable doubt that you moved up to a light-truck tire but were doable, I guess. But, they did feel awful sloppy though. It wasn’t until consulting with bfg and filling them to 55psi when they all the sudden felt as good as the SRA’s did on acceleration, braking and cornering so I guess bfg knew what they was talking about, at least on that part.

But maybe it is kind of due to the lower profile sidewall on the twenties. My truck is still brand new, 14,000 on the clock. Air ride so it can’t be that.


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I was referring to the Nitto TG G2's in 4 ply, aren't those P rated??, and for the sizes you're guys are running, you can get them in either P or E, unless you want to run 17" wheels, in which case you can find them D rated if you run 37's.

I have no idea what Falken says what i'm supposed to be running in my tires, i chalk them out and check contact patch, i want all of the thread of the tire contacting the road, i'll go to to 46-50psi if I go 300-400lbs in the bed, which is more likely as heavy as mine will get loaded, my truck is a DD with more offroad/exploration duties in mind, I go to 14-15psi when offroading, so sidewall strength is important for me, and I can't trust P for that.

I'd think BFG told you about the 55psi thing because manufacturers have new set of rules when it comes to air pressure after the Firestone fiasco years ago, ive been running 35's or 37's for years at 30-36psi in different applications Jeeps, SUV's etc, never had any problems, but again, i'm not into towing/hauling heavy so the application will be different in that sense, and the tires have always been big/bulky with heavy sidewalls, so I can't tell you what air pressure will be good for your own application and usage.

I've seeing conversion tables online that show you what PSI to use if you go with a bigger tire with a different load index, but I don't remember any names at the moment. Never had to use them myself though, but I've seeing references to them from people wondering what they should be running if the factory said 39psi on stock tires, what do you run now with 35's for example with a heavier or weaker sidewall.

Hope it helps.
 

corneileous

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I was referring to the Nitto TG G2's in 4 ply, aren't those P rated??, and for the sizes you're guys are running, you can get them in either P or E, unless you want to run 17" wheels, in which case you can find them D rated if you run 37's.
Doesn’t say they are P rated. Not saying that matters on whether they actually are or not since like I was saying, the websites showed the light truck tires with an “LT” in front of the size and a “P” in front of the sizes that were what I thought were P rated.

The size that Gary guy’s running - the 275/65, he can get those Nittos in a 10 ply too but in the factory stock size, it shows it’s only a 6 ply.

I have no idea what Falken says what i'm supposed to be running in my tires, i chalk them out and check contact patch, i want all of the thread of the tire contacting the road, i'll go to to 46-50psi if I go 300-400lbs in the bed, which is more likely as heavy as mine will get loaded....
That may be truly all you need but see, I didn’t have that problem with my truck. My contact patch was the same whether i had 39psi, or 55psi.


....my truck is a DD with more offroad/exploration duties in mind, I go to 14-15psi when offroading, so sidewall strength is important for me, and I can't trust P for that.
That’s understandable. I don’t use my truck the way you do so I don’t need that beefy of a tire.

I'd think BFG told you about the 55psi thing because manufacturers have new set of rules when it comes to air pressure after the Firestone fiasco years ago, ive been running 35's or 37's for years at 30-36psi in different applications Jeeps, SUV's etc, never had any problems, but again, i'm not into towing/hauling heavy so the application will be different in that sense, and the tires have always been big/bulky with heavy sidewalls, so I can't tell you what air pressure will be good for your own application and usage.
I think it’s just more lawsuit protection anyways. I dunno. Maybe it isn’t. But running the front at 50 and the back at 45, don’t seem to be too awful bad. Still rides tougher than hell tho.

I've seeing conversion tables online that show you what PSI to use if you go with a bigger tire with a different load index, but I don't remember any names at the moment. Never had to use them myself though, but I've seeing references to them from people wondering what they should be running if the factory said 39psi on stock tires, what do you run now with 35's for example with a heavier or weaker sidewall.

Hope it helps.

I haven’t seen a conversion table for that. Seen or for everything else, gears... tires, but nothing that tells you what pressure to run based off of load range and size.

But naw, the only time I ever had to deal with what you did about fighting pressures all the time with different weights or trailers was back when I had 285/65/16’s on my old 2nd Gen halfton- since those stock wheels on them were only 7 inches wide because of the 245/65’s that came stock on it, them big 33’s actually needed an 8 inch rim, because the sidewalls were pulled in too close together. I had to run them at like 29psi just to smash the complete tread fully to the road so they wouldn’t wear out the center’s. lol.




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ram1500rsm

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Doesn’t say they are P rated. Not saying that matters on whether they actually are or not since like I was saying, the websites showed the light truck tires with an “LT” in front of the size and a “P” in front of the sizes that were what I thought were P rated.

The size that Gary guy’s running - the 275/65, he can get those Nittos in a 10 ply too but in the factory stock size, it shows it’s only a 6 ply.


That may be truly all you need but see, I didn’t have that problem with my truck. My contact patch was the same whether i had 39psi, or 55psi.



That’s understandable. I don’t use my truck the way you do so I don’t need that beefy of a tire.


I think it’s just more lawsuit protection anyways. I dunno. Maybe it isn’t. But running the front at 50 and the back at 45, don’t seem to be too awful bad. Still rides tougher than hell tho.



I haven’t seen a conversion table for that. Seen or for everything else, gears... tires, but nothing that tells you what pressure to run based off of load range and size.

But naw, the only time I ever had to deal with what you did about fighting pressures all the time with different weights or trailers was back when I had 285/65/16’s on my old 2nd Gen halfton- since those stock wheels on them were only 7 inches wide because of the 245/65’s that came stock on it, them big 33’s actually needed an 8 inch rim, because the sidewalls were pulled in too close together. I had to run them at like 29psi just to smash the complete tread fully to the road so they wouldn’t wear out the center’s. lol.




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I called Nitto customer service a min ago, and asked about the LT designation of their G2 tires in their site, dude said sizes not showing LT designation are “Hard Metric”,he then laughed, and added, they’re P rated...
 

corneileous

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I called Nitto customer service a min ago, and asked about the LT designation of their G2 tires in their site, dude said sizes not showing LT designation are “Hard Metric”,he then laughed, and added, they’re P rated...

Well, maybe they are, I spose. Kudos for clearing that up. I just figured that maybe somethin’ else was up because like for example, them Michelin Defenders compared to the stock SRA’s; they may both be a 4-ply, they both may have a max inflation of 44psi but even though it ain’t a whole lot, the fact still remains that the Michelin’s max load rating at that pressure is 78 pounds more per tire than them flimsy Goodyear’s. Even those 4 ply Cooper Discoverer AT/3’s I had on my old truck in that 20, we’re the same thing.

Maybe that’s why those GY’s are actually labeled as a “P” rated tire and the other 4-ply’ers ain’t.

But ya know? If the dude you talked to at Nitto said that pretty much all these - I’m assuming you’re saying non-LT labeled tires are just a P rated tire, then why aren’t they all labeled and sold as such?


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ram1500rsm

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Well, maybe they are, I spose. Kudos for clearing that up. I just figured that maybe somethin’ else was up because like for example, them Michelin Defenders compared to the stock SRA’s; they may both be a 4-ply, they both may have a max inflation of 44psi but even though it ain’t a whole lot, the fact still remains that the Michelin’s max load rating at that pressure is 78 pounds more per tire than them flimsy Goodyear’s. Even those 4 ply Cooper Discoverer AT/3’s I had on my old truck in that 20, we’re the same thing.

Maybe that’s why those GY’s are actually labeled as a “P” rated tire and the other 4-ply’ers ain’t.

But ya know? If the dude you talked to at Nitto said that pretty much all these - I’m assuming you’re saying non-LT labeled tires are just a P rated tire, then why aren’t they all labeled and sold as such?


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I’d think marketing plays the biggest role, those looking into GY SRA’s are more likely not the same people in the market for Nitto TG G2’s.
Also you keep asking why do I call them P rated, please contact Nitto yourself and ask them, I’m not making the tires, if they say they’re P, I’d think they must be P?
 
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corneileous

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Also you keep asking why do I call them P rated, please contact Nitto yourself and ask them, I’m not making the tires, if they say they’re P, I’d think they must be P?

I wasn’t asking you. I wasn’t really asking anybody, I was just merely throwing that out there for the sake of conversation. Just because I ended that sentence with a question mark didn’t really necessarily mean I was asking why certain tires are classified as P rated and others weren’t.

It don’t matter anyways.


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LugsLeadOut84

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Just curious but what pressures do you run yours at? I’m assuming those you got are the OEM size 8-ply’s right? I called BFG one day and asked them what to run mine at and I was advised by them to run them at 55psi- or no lower than 50. I started mine out at 55 and I will say- they felt a lot less spongy at that pressure than they did at 39 which is the recommended pressure for the stock SRA’s but the truck really rode like it had solid rubber skid-steer tires...lol.

I’ve gone back and forth on pressures with mine so many times in hopes to find a sweet spot but I just can’t. These tires beat me to death no matter what pressure I run them at, which is why I’m getting rid of them.

I had KO2's (E-Rated) on my prior Ram. I ran them at 52 lbs pretty much throughout the year through all seasons. I'd air down to 22-25 lbs when I went on the beach (loose, deep sand), but other than that, I kept them at 52. I found it to be a comfortable number for those tires.
This will always be a debate with many opinions. Some say the door jamb pressure is the rule. Tire manufacturers and even vehicle manufacturers say the pressure listed on the door jamb is for the OEM tires. I think as long as you stay within the tire manufacturer's recommended limits, I'd run what makes you comfortable and what your situation needs.
 
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huntergreen

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I don’t know if it matters or not but according to both tire rack and discount tire, the only tires that’s being talked about in this discussion that are actually a “P” rated tire is them Goodyear SRA’s that comes on our Ram 1500s at the factory.

But you’re running 36psi in them 10 ply Falken 35s? What do they say you should be running those at? I dunno, maybe bfg was just blowin’ smoke up my freckle with that whole 55psi thing but that’s what they said to run my 8-ply, 275/60s at, and that running them at the factory spec pressure for the Goodyear’s was dangerously low, and at severe risk of catastrophic tire failure. I will say, that at 39psi, they actually didn’t ride too terribly bad- mind you, I do have the four-corner air ride so that might have attributed to that but, they did ride ok. They also did a good job of taking out all reasonable doubt that you moved up to a light-truck tire but were doable, I guess. But, they did feel awful sloppy though. It wasn’t until consulting with bfg and filling them to 55psi when they all the sudden felt as good as the SRA’s did on acceleration, braking and cornering so I guess bfg knew what they was talking about, at least on that part.

But maybe it is kind of due to the lower profile sidewall on the twenties. My truck is still brand new, 14,000 on the clock. Air ride so it can’t be that.


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When in doubt do the chalk test.
 

corneileous

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When in doubt do the chalk test.

Sometimes that chalk test don’t mean diddley. As I told the other person that mentioned it, my bfgs don’t care if there’s 35 pounds, or 55 pounds of air in them, the contact patch of the tread was always the same and full because they’re the OEM size. Well, almost the OEM size - they’re LT’s and not P’s....lol.


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Sometimes that chalk test don’t mean diddley. As I told the other person that mentioned it, my bfgs don’t care if there’s 35 pounds, or 55 pounds of air in them, the contact patch of the tread was always the same and full because they’re the OEM size. Well, almost the OEM size - they’re LT’s and not P’s....lol.


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They won’t have the same contact patch at 35 and 55. Also why do you want to run the tire at the max tire pressure when it’s cold? After the tires heat up the pressure sure gets a lot higher. Chalk test does work.


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corneileous

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They won’t have the same contact patch at 35 and 55. Also why do you want to run the tire at the max tire pressure when it’s cold? After the tires heat up the pressure sure gets a lot higher. Chalk test does work.


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I wasn’t running the tires at max pressure. Max pressure on them bfgs is 65psi. The highest I ever ran them at was 55 as per the manufacturer’s recommendation.

And no, I’m not saying the chalk test doesn’t work. I’m just saying that it was useless for me, this particular instance because I never had problems with getting contact patch to agree with air pressures, even on the back.


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I have always love the BFG KO's. Great in the snow and even better sipped. BFG know make 2 compounds in the BFG KO 2's. The same soft snow compound with the snowflake and a harder long wear compound no snow flake. I man several sets on my 04 QC 4x4 2500 Laramie Diesel short bed-stick. 4" lift and 35's. Ran 17's, then 20's and the back to 18's. 20's ride like crap. I never ever had more than 36 psi in those tires anytime. Normally 32 to 34. I will mount set on my 18' 2500 4x4 CC Rambox Laramie Sport Diesel auto once the TransForce are shot. Stock size in 285/60-20. BFG KO 2's are 385 each in that size. I will go with 275/65-20 which are $100 bucks a tires cheaper. I little narrower but they are 1/2" taller at 34.1. They weight only 1 lb heavier than stock.
 

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don't really matter if either one of us is or isnt an expert. I had never seen it as an XL other than the place ya posted . I only found it buy looking for an SL rated tire and in my case if it was listed with that type of rating . Either way the height and weight was what I was after and got . Did exactly what I wanted what ever the hell it is . Holds more weight than I need and most its size at 2760 at only 44psi so at 35 its smooth as a gravy sandwich nor do I think we will find specs that will agree and whos to say or care whos right

Heres another place

  • Brand: Nitto
  • Style: Terra Grappler G2
  • Size: 275/65R20
  • Service Description: 116S
  • Load Range: B
  • Ply Rating: 4 Ply
  • Overall Diameter: 34.1
  • Sidewall: Black Sidewall
  • Quantity: 1
 
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boblonben

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Don't understand this over enthusiasm for Michelin tires. They are garbage for anything but smooth road, summer time. Over priced, overrated junk. Prefer my BFG Rugged Terrain even over the KO23's. And definitely NO Goodyears except maybe Fortera. Also one good tire is General STX's, have a set on a 2017 RAM Sport 4X4, they're good on and off road (nothing real serious off road I admit to).
 

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Don't understand this over enthusiasm for Michelin tires. They are garbage for anything but smooth road, summer time. Over priced, overrated junk. Prefer my BFG Rugged Terrain even over the KO23's. And definitely NO Goodyears except maybe Fortera. Also one good tire is General STX's, have a set on a 2017 RAM Sport 4X4, they're good on and off road (nothing real serious off road I admit to).

LOL… The Michelin tires arent garbage, man. Just because you’re basing your opinion towards something they really weren’t designed to do, doesn’t make them junk. I could very easily say the same thing about the BFG’s, or anything similar, coming from a perspective of someone who doesn’t off-road, or even pull heavy trailers all the time, but I’m not because I think the bfgs are good tires. Just not for me.


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