Brake Controller

[stoney]

Here is plan-B response to the fix!!!

Very interesting.

"On the 2015 Ram the 7 pin receptacle that is joined to the bumper can be removed. That 7 pin receptacle then can be removed from the wiring harness via a quick release, sort of. After removing the the 7 pin they observed how the two plugs mated via looking at the marks on the electrical connections. One of them they felt did not look like a good connection. They used a dental tool and bent one of the leads. Then they filled all the connections with a clear electrical jelly stuff. After that we got the numbers. On full gain and full braking 10 volts plus is within spec. So I was told.

PS: I forgot to mention in prior threads that the original RAM controller, after testing and the dealer said they see no issues and after my insistence, replaced the original controller with a controller off another new truck on the lot. Same issue persisted in my braking tests. That's when I went back to the dealer and they did the above test and procedure and everything works fine.

Good luck guys. I hope you find the same issue to resolution. But it is also hard to believe that this kind of connection issue would be so prevalent. I was thinking I was a one off."

 

[Kwhite]

This is encouraging I will have to check my plug connections.

 

[cc rider]

Yeah what's the chances of that being the case with all of our trucks. But, hey you never know. If the part is made wrong in batches.......

 

[PippinAin'tEasy]

Great news, guys! I hope that all ya'll dealing with the problem are able to rectify with the plug repair. Excellent find!

Sent from my hoisted glass of single malt using Tapatalk

 

[cc rider]

I'm trying to decide if I'm going to go take a look at it tonight after work or should I just take the rv down to the dealer tomorrow ugh! Been working all day.

Edit:
Well got under there. There seems to be too much stuff in the way. . There are some clips or something holding everything on. But it was too late and chilly. Off to the dealer in the morning

 

[drittal]

I looked today. I think the connector being discussed is plugged into the back of the combo 7 and 4 pin connector. The 7/4 pin is held in with 2 clips on each side on the inide of the bumper. Squeeze them inward toward the body of the plug.

You can then work the whole unit out of the bumper now. You can now see the connector on the back side of the 7/4 pin. It clips to it only on top driver side where the brake pin is lower passenger side. You will notice right away that this plug has a lot of play on that bottom passenger side.

I pulled it apart and used a pick to tweak the female connector to hopefully contact the male pin better. I slapped it back together and now measure 10.5v at the 7 pin.

To make sure it actually helped I crawled under the trailer and could hear the brake humming. Then hooked up and held the slider and tried to move the trailer with the brakes engaged. Before on 7.5 gain and 100% I was easily able to overpower the brakes and pull the trailer. Tonight the harder I pulled the more the trailer squatted and it didn't budge.

Hopefully some body with more know how can confirm my findings on their rig.

 

[cc rider]

Update:

Took my truck and rv to dealer today. Photo is below. Tech came out with computer and couldn't get it to work to try diagnostics on the code that I posted previously. Told him about the7.5 volts and he said that isn't really an accurate way to tell cause of the pulse width modulation? Anyway, he started tackling it and pulled off the connector on the bumper. We didn't look at the connections for looseness. I'm going to do that myself like drittal just did. He said he thought water might have got in there cause it was off the clip. anyway he is going to order a new harness going from bumper to bed connector. then we'll go from there. I'll keep u posted

 

[drittal]

I'm wondering what Boss has found.

When it comes to this stuff I'm smart enough to get myself in trouble.

I did pull out the plug on my father's 2012 and everything looks the same as my 2015, just different location.

I was quite happy when my trailer didn't budge when I tested it. Before I would have been able to over power the brakes. And the y were humming nicely.

Nice camper btw CC.

 

[BossHogg]

Told him about the7.5 volts and he said that isn't really an accurate way to tell cause of the pulse width modulation?

This is one of the problems when attempting to get something fix, people in a position to fix that don't know. A longer pulse width equates to a higher equivalent DC voltage, it is a very accurate way to measure.

You can't fix your tech so since he knows what PWM is, focus on the duty cycle aspect instead of the voltage. If he does measure the duty cycle, I would like to know how and what he uses to measure.

I'm wondering what Boss has found.

Sorry, I did not have time to back probe the ITBM, now the truck is in the body shop and I won't get it back until October 8th.

My 2015 has the fifth wheel/goose neck prep package which includes a second seven pin in the bed, I measure the same brake levels at both seven pins.

 

[stoney]

I looked today. I think the connector being discussed is plugged into the back of the combo 7 and 4 pin connector. The 7/4 pin is held in with 2 clips on each side on the inide of the bumper. Squeeze them inward toward the body of the plug.

You can then work the whole unit out of the bumper now. You can now see the connector on the back side of the 7/4 pin. It clips to it only on top driver side where the brake pin is lower passenger side. You will notice right away that this plug has a lot of play on that bottom passenger side.

I pulled it apart and used a pick to tweak the female connector to hopefully contact the male pin better. I slapped it back together and now measure 10.5v at the 7 pin.

To make sure it actually helped I crawled under the trailer and could hear the brake humming. Then hooked up and held the slider and tried to move the trailer with the brakes engaged. Before on 7.5 gain and 100% I was easily able to overpower the brakes and pull the trailer. Tonight the harder I pulled the more the trailer squatted and it didn't budge.

Hopefully some body with more know how can confirm my findings on their rig.

Reading this is reassuring.
Thank you!

 

[cc rider]

Im not a "wiring wiz". But, I can solder (easy) , install resistors etc. (as long as i know where to install them) . I dont really understand all the jargon youre referring to (pwm, and the duty cycles or how they work). Ill do all that i can to help though. Ill hit the tech with another blast of the 7 volt reading after he installs the harness if that doesnt fix it. Ill test it right there. But it would be better if u were there Then u can argue the procedure with him since i probably dont know as much as he does. Coming to NY any time soon?
I did what drittal did today but i didnt notice anything loose. i tested the 7 pin on the bed and at the bumper like you did Boss cause I have the 5th wheel group too. Same reading. i attached a pic. Im assuming theyre mating as they should....
By the way, dont feel bad about the damage. i did that too before. It was raining buckets as there was a tornado warning and i was rushing around. Went to put truck in park and was half out the door doing it. Next thing i know, it starts rolling backwards and nails kingpin. dented my cab, front bed panel and tailgate. It didnt look bad , but was $5k in damage. Lesson learned!!!!!!

This is one of the problems when attempting to get something fix, people in a position to fix that don't know. A longer pulse width equates to a higher equivalent DC voltage, it is a very accurate way to measure.

You can't fix your tech so since he knows what PWM is, focus on the duty cycle aspect instead of the voltage. If he does measure the duty cycle, I would like to know how and what he uses to measure.



Sorry, I did not have time to back probe the ITBM, now the truck is in the body shop and I won't get it back until October 8th.

My 2015 has the fifth wheel/goose neck prep package which includes a second seven pin in the bed, I measure the same brake levels at both seven pins.

 

[15BlueStreak]

New to Ram trucks here. Dealer is bringing in a 2015 6.4l with 4.10s for me. I will most likely be purchasing it. Is this brake controller or connector issue wide spread? Or is this a hit and miss thing as the trucks get some mileage on them. I am concerned cause I gotta pull camper on the 9th. I will check it when they give it to me for test drive for a couple days anyways to be sure. You would think with the amount of trucks out there this would reared it's head mire than it has.

 

[Kwhite]

Seems to be 2015 trucks in general

 

[cc rider]

I wouldn't buy it without checking it. If u have them replace it with after market one then you know you are good( that's if it's coming with the factory one). Show them this thread

New to Ram trucks here. Dealer is bringing in a 2015 6.4l with 4.10s for me. I will most likely be purchasing it. Is this brake controller or connector issue wide spread? Or is this a hit and miss thing as the trucks get some mileage on them. I am concerned cause I gotta pull camper on the 9th. I will check it when they give it to me for test drive for a couple days anyways to be sure. You would think with the amount of trucks out there this would reared it's head mire than it has.

 

[15BlueStreak]

Am I correct that it is more of a connector issue than controller. If so I have dielectric grease and will resolve it myself. I take it there is no tsb for this yet? I was going to have dealer take care of any recalls or tsbs on truck before I take it home.

Nathan

 

[loveracing1988]

I wouldn't buy it without checking it. If u have them replace it with after market one then you know you are good( that's if it's coming with the factory one). Show them this thread

From the different forums I have found this on the controller isn't the issue, it is the connector.

 

[cc rider]

yes, I think that's the case since when u buy an after market one you get a different connector and that fixes the issue. There have been posts where guys had the factory controller replaced
with a factory controller and it didn't fix it so.....

From the different forums I have found this on the controller isn't the issue, it is the connector.

 

[cc rider]

You have to know exactly where the problem is.

Am I correct that it is more of a connector issue than controller. If so I have dielectric grease and will resolve it myself. I take it there is no tsb for this yet? I was going to have dealer take care of any recalls or tsbs on truck before I take it home.

Nathan

 

[15BlueStreak]

This truck has the factory controller. So there are no tsbs on this yet. Seems to me its a connector issue more than a controller. Since this thing is new maybe the corrosion hasnt set in on the connector yet. But the truck had been sitting awhile. The dealer they are getting it from ordered truck in December of 14. Either way I will have it checked out by them and myself. Thanks guys!
I hope this truck turns out to be a good one. It I s going to be pulling our Jayco 314bhds camper. It will be replacing our 05 f250 with the v10.

Nathan

 

[Kwhite]

the connection issue is at the rear of the truck if i understand correctly, so the brake controller connection should not matter, so this worries me lol, i need to check my rear plug connection