Brake rotors (Power Stop)

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Sherman Bird

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Below is my opinion. I'm not expert brake person.

“All rotors glazed, slotted and drill so replacement of rotors only option. However, all pad thickness is good and no safety concerns at this time”

If someone said that to me. I'd tell them to **** off and leave.

1. slotted and drilled? And??????? I put slotted, drilled, vented on all cars/trucks/jeeps. Usually with PowerStop. The fact they are slotted and drilled is meaningless statement.

2. Rotors are glazed ?? but your not replacing pads???? Morons.

3. Rotors are glazed but not warped? Depending how much, sand them.

@crash68 mentioned above. Riding the brakes likely was cause. Since they aren't very old, and you mentioned not many miles.
If the Truck was sitting for while, it is possible that caused issue. Likely not based on your listed location.


If it was me. I would lightly sand rotors with fine block sand paper. Then check them. Still an issue. I'd replace rotors/pads again. Then change your braking habits.

Or Go to at least two difference professional brake shops, get their advice.
I used to enjoy the implications of monikers on the show "Home Improvement" to influence a feeling of power or durability.

"Power Stop" is an obvious clone of that practice. IMHO, it is an attempt to market the smoke and mirrors of stark superiority. Sure, there may be some degree of better performance in a sliver of momentary definement (e.g. when one has the rare occasion to do something more rare than common with normal brake usage).

"The Torquemaster 5000 from Binford Tools" was an example of satirical marketing designed to evoke images of toughness or power beyond the norm.

As long as the idea of "hairy chested, deep pectoral man stuff" exists, so will the concept of producing things to sell, not necessarily to buy!

Folks are going to believe what they want to. The guy who brought the magnet in a bracket to me to install onto the fuel line in order to "straighten out fuel molecules" in order to vastly improve the fuel mileage on his 6 liter gasoline HD GMC crew cab truck was seeking to improve from about 8 to 9 MPG's to 20 ish. In spite of my admonitions as to it being a waste of time, he insisted I install it. I did. It didn't improve his gas mileage one iota. He truly believed the marketing for the device and was overcome with wishful thinking based on conclusion bias.
 
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GTyankee

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I tried a brand of brakes on my old 2009 Dodge Ram 5.7L

I had asked the Brake & Alignment Shop that i often use, just what brake brand they sell the most often in the type of business that i am in.

They told me that the Sheriff, Ambulance Service & City Services vehicles all use a brand called Centric. Of all of Centric products, 2 products called
STOP TECH & POSI QUIET were in high demand.


Let me give you a warning Stop Tech & Posi Quiet are far from as good as in their advertisements
 

1 MEAN66

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Slotted, slotted/drilled, slotted/dimpled rotors were originally designed to help cool & and get rid of the gases built up on the rotors surface (between the pad and rotor) with hard braking (when most pads at that time had asbestos in them). The asbestos was also the cause of the "Dirt" forming on the wheel (it is actually asbestos "DUST"). Most pads now do not have asbestos-especially better quality. They are ceramic and no longer emit that asbestos ,dark in color, DUST. Nor do they produce the gas that the asbestos created. Most of the testing being done by qualified people will tell you that slotted and/or drilled rotors are not the best idea on a "Street" vehicle. And, in fact, under most "street" circumstances do not provide better braking. The material the rotors are made of now is also been improved. The number one problem with Drilled, drilled/ slotted, and also dimpled/slotted is in those areas the rotors are susceptible to cracking and failure. In a racing environment they are tossed out. If they are resurfaced, they of course get thinner, making that possible problem even greater! Don't believe go to a manufacture web site and see - EBC, Wilwood, etc. or on the internet when testing was performed by a qualified "tester". Not jimmy next door who decided to make a video, about their opinion! BUT NO MATTER WHAT YOU USE, they must be :bedded in properly! This is also discussed on line. What that process is: you are actually "bedding" pad material into the surface of the rotor, which when done CORRECTLY makes better friction.
 

Light299

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1MEAN66 - agree with 90% of what you said. Honestly though, modern friction compounds still gas. Compounds like ferro-carbon have become very popular and crossed over from their use in aviation. Dusting can still be an issue, but it depends on the blend. I remember having a set of race pads that were so soft if you braked hard at night you could see embers coming off them. They only lasted about 5k miles and were amazingly dirty. But they could drop from 100 to 50 in about a car length.

As regards slotting/drilling, I agree with your points and will add....most places won't want to trun them. Also, from oem you'll usually only see one or the other - having both is a bit redundant. Aftermarket cheapies do both cause it looks cooler. Slotted is best as it provides a uniform wiping surface against the pad. Otherwise you eventually get this.
 

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BLUEDERANGO

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I have found that Power Stop brakes, when installed correctly and the break in instructions are followed, work extremely well.. The last set I installed was on my 2014 Durango with 100k miles on it. The factory rotors were a bit warped causing a mild shudder when lightly applied after they were Hot. I live and drive in a mountainous area and this is not an uncommon ailment. After installing (Pads and Rotors) I immediately noticed that the breaking was even better than when the rig was new. I have about 15k miles on them now and they still perform extremely well under all driving conditions.
 

2Tallguy

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Been running PowerStops in all 4 of my vehicles for years and years, not 1 single issue with them.
Ditto. When you bed them in according to instructions there's a noticeable improvement Not a peep in brake performance. I was reluctant because it made the brakes worse on my 2nd gen. Not a peep out of them.
 

Sherman Bird

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1MEAN66 - agree with 90% of what you said. Honestly though, modern friction compounds still gas. Compounds like ferro-carbon have become very popular and crossed over from their use in aviation. Dusting can still be an issue, but it depends on the blend. I remember having a set of race pads that were so soft if you braked hard at night you could see embers coming off them. They only lasted about 5k miles and were amazingly dirty. But they could drop from 100 to 50 in about a car length.

As regards slotting/drilling, I agree with your points and will add....most places won't want to trun them. Also, from oem you'll usually only see one or the other - having both is a bit redundant. Aftermarket cheapies do both cause it looks cooler. Slotted is best as it provides a uniform wiping surface against the pad. Otherwise you eventually get this.
I once installed race pads on a fellow's Porsche 911T. He slalom raced it on the weekends. These pads lasted a very short time but WOW! They stopped that car RIGHT NOW!
 

Udy2554

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Love my PowerStops! I’ve run them on all my vehicles! Noticeable improvement on all of them! I’ve never had a problem, or had to replace, any of them! Basic maintainable of calipers(regressed sliders and rubber boots)! I live in the rust belt…I installed PowerStop’ powder coated calipers!

‘18 PowerWagon

‘00 WS6 TA

And my old ‘06 Tacoma!

They’re awesome!IMG_2382.jpegIMG_5987.jpegIMG_0347.jpegIMG_3299.jpeg
 

Stringer45

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had powerstop kits in other trucks.

i would not use anything else

at

all
 

Hardracer

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I once installed race pads on a fellow's Porsche 911T. He slalom raced it on the weekends. These pads lasted a very short time but WOW! They stopped that car RIGHT NOW!
Simimlar type experience with stopping...I just replaced pads few weeks ago.did my version of bedding from about 7 diff,u-tube vids...im a novice at best in doing brake work...anyways..truck pedal got a way firmer feel and stopped great after the pad change and bedding or so i thought...bout a week later fella merged right over into me and I jammed the brakes hard....hard enuff to activate the anti lock....but it worked.as it should...later on in the drive home(bout 10 min)I tested this again because I thought it could've stopped better...well it stopped better alright without activating the anti lock ...like Sherman said,it really stopped....so I gather that it/i really pushed it to the limit and bedded it better(if that's even possible).since then it really stops,great pedal...makes me think from your comment that your porche guy used the brakes hard during the slalom/road course and stops super good.....my mind its gotta be a heat cycle thing to get that friction/pad material onto the rotor..but that's just my thoughts about it,but I'm no genius and could be totally wrong.
P.s......I installed oreillys brake best brand(if I remember right)not the power stop brand you guys are speaking of.
 
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Sherman Bird

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Simimlar type experience with stopping...I just replaced pads few weeks ago.did my version of bedding from about 7 diff,u-tube vids...im a novice at best in doing brake work...anyways..truck pedal got a way firmer feel and stopped great after the pad change and bedding or so i thought...bout a week later fella merged right over into me and I jammed the brakes hard....hard enuff to activate the anti lock....but it worked.as it should...later on in the drive home(bout 10 min)I tested this again because I thought it could've stopped better...well it stopped better alright without activating the anti lock ...like Sherman said,it really stopped....so I gather that it/i really pushed it to the limit and bedded it better(if that's even possible).since then it really stops,great pedal...makes me think from your comment that your porche guy used the brakes hard during the slalom/road course and stops super good.....my mind its gotta be a heat cycle thing to get that friction/pad material onto the rotor..but that's just my thoughts about it,but I'm no genius and could be totally wrong.
P.s......I installed oreillys brake best brand(if I remember right)not the power stop brand you guys are speaking of.
ABS has pretty much nothing to do with "pad types" or "bedding", per se. ABS monitors wheel lockup due to factors such as loose gravel, wet black top, etc. My experience for both myself and customers regarding Brake Best from O'Reilly's is that they work very well.... but after a few months, begin to squeal first thing in the morning, especially on humid mornings, but that generally clears up after the first few stops. This doesn't bother me or my wife (after I explained it to her), but doesn't exactly have a professional aura about it after I take money for a brake job. The Brake Best is my cheapest of 3 options I give my customers when I quote a brake job. Thankfully, the vast majority want the superior brakes available (not through O'Reilly's). Those brakes never squeal.
 

Hardracer

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Interesting.....the way 1 brand performs in different places and on different
vehicles...been using that cheap pad for years on both our vehicles...never heard a sound yet...now I gotta knock on wood....lol
 

Sherman Bird

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Interesting.....the way 1 brand performs in different places and on different
vehicles...been using that cheap pad for years on both our vehicles...never heard a sound yet...now I gotta knock on wood....lol
I would think all this prattle about brakes is subjective. :)
 

buckeyexx

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I run powerstop pads on regular rotors and can still feel a difference in stopping power over oem pads. Had powerstop pads and rotors on my last 2500 and it made a huge difference. Either way I think powerstop brakes weather just pads or both make a huge upgrade over oem. I will eventually do the rotors on my power wagon when its time but they are not cheap.
 
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