Burning Oil 5.7 Hemi

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KJHagg

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2012 Ram 1500 Hemi 5.7

I had motor and transmission replaced at 240k due to lifter issue gone too long and tranny after hitting limp mode about the same time. Immediately, the new motor would need 1 qt oil about every 1,000 miles. The shop and motor supplier replaced the motor again with same result. They are stumped and washed their hands of it but still having the same issue, like clockwork, 100,000 miles later. About 1 qt per 1,000 miles.

No apparent burning or smoking, except some when first start up in the morning. If it's not steam it's just slightly smoke .No leaks at all.

I ran the original motor 240k without adding any oil between oil changes.

New motor was complete except intake manifold. Even replaced all the cooling system.

Thoughts and ideas?
 

jws123

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Did anyone replace the PCV valve it goes into the top of the intake manifold.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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If it only smokes at startup, does it smoke on the second restart of the day? If no, PCV, then check plug tightness in each cylinder and oil leaking into spark plug tube, causing it to burn oil. Spark plugs were loose in 1 cylinder of my 14.

I replaced valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube gaskets which stopped smoking during inital startup, also tighten plugs and oil consumption as it stoppedleaking into spark plug tubes.
 

jws123

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Dont think I have had any hemi that didnt have a small puff on innitial startup wouldnt be alarmed about that.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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I've got 5, 5.7s that don't puff on startup. The puff on startup is what caused me to identify the leak in the spark plug tubes.
 

jws123

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Yes, and it did seem to help for the first 1,000 miles but not entirely
And your sure your not overfilling it correct? your checking it on level ground after it sits a while? It will burn the extra oil had someone not long ago think their engine burned oil because of this hemis do burn a little oil but not 1qt every 1k I expect that for a 200k+ engine.
 

jr27236

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Can you clarify your post.
You put a NEW or rebuilt motor in?
It immediately started to loose a it of oil and they replaced it?
2nd motor started doing the same or after 100,000 on the second motor?
What's your current milage and what kind of driving and where.
Do you let it idle and warm up often?
 

Burla

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What weight oil are you using? Have you done a uoa? This guy is usually great and has incredible articles up on machinelube, he made his arguments a little funny in this one, but you will get the jist. If you get a used oil analysis you can see if something is happening to the viscosity or if it is disappearing. Generally going thick will stop much oil level loss, but if it is being burnt you can use an oil that resists thermal breakdown, group 4/5 oils plus go thicker.

All engine should use some oil, get it to 1 quart every 3k miles, I'd feel great if I could get there.
 
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KJHagg

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And your sure your not overfilling it correct? your checking it on level ground after it sits a while? It will burn the extra oil had someone not long ago think their engine burned oil because of this hemis do burn a little oil but not 1qt every 1k I expect that for a 200k+ engine.
I'm not overfilling it. Yes, the basics of checking oil followed. The original engine didn't burn any, or hardly any. It spoiled me I guess.
 
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KJHagg

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Can you clarify your post.
You put a NEW or rebuilt motor in?
It immediately started to loose a it of oil and they replaced it?
2nd motor started doing the same or after 100,000 on the second motor?
What's your current milage and what kind of driving and where.
Do you let it idle and warm up often?
Re-manufactured motor, not rebuilt.
It immediately started burning a quart about every thousand miles.
They couldn't figure it out so just replaced the engine with another re-manufactured engine. Same result. Immediately.
I have 100,000 on the re-manufactured engine now. It's consistent. 1 qt per 1,000 miles +/-
I drive no less than 10 miles from home, more often 75 miles per day. Mostly highway driving except during rush hour.
I always let the engine idle and warm up several minutes before driving it.
 
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KJHagg

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What weight oil are you using? Have you done a uoa? This guy is usually great and has incredible articles up on machinelube, he made his arguments a little funny in this one, but you will get the jist. If you get a used oil analysis you can see if something is happening to the viscosity or if it is disappearing. Generally going thick will stop much oil level loss, but if it is being burnt you can use an oil that resists thermal breakdown, group 4/5 oils plus go thicker.

All engine should use some oil, get it to 1 quart every 3k miles, I'd feel great if I could get there.
I've been using Mobile 1 synthetic on this vehicle.

I'll watch the video, thank you! My wallet would appreciate 1 qt for every 3,000 miles!!
 

jws123

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I've been using Mobile 1 synthetic on this vehicle.

I'll watch the video, thank you! My wallet would appreciate 1 qt for every 3,000 miles!!
If your not use 5w30 nothing thinner some use 20w but its to thin also ftw remanufactured is the same as rebuilt who did the work? you may have picked the wrong company for a reman alot of shady **** goes on out there lol.
 
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KJHagg

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If your not use 5w30 nothing thinner some use 20w but its to thin also ftw remanufactured is the same as rebuilt who did the work? you may have picked the wrong company for a reman alot of shady **** goes on out there lol.

Using 5w20. Are you saying I should be using 5w30?

The motor was completely remanufactured. Instead of just taking it down to the block and rebuilding it, they dip it and resurface the key surfaces. All new from there up. It's a reputable company but can't remember who it was. I checked it carefully before spending my 401k savings on it. I'll dig into the old receipts and printouts from the shop I used and see if I can find it again.
 

jws123

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Using 5w20. Are you saying I should be using 5w30?

The motor was completely remanufactured. Instead of just taking it down to the block and rebuilding it, they dip it and resurface the key surfaces. All new from there up. It's a reputable company but can't remember who it was. I checked it carefully before spending my 401k savings on it. I'll dig into the old receipts and printouts from the shop I used and see if I can find it again.
yes 90% of us use 5w30
 

Burla

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If you want to use m1, just use m1 fs 0w40, report back.
 

jr27236

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FWIW I would put a catch can on it and see what it collects and at what rate. You can also pull the intake tube off the throttle body and see how dirty the inside of it is. This will give you an indication of how much if any blow by you have
 

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