Cooling issue in 2013 3.6L

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borgille

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Hey guys. Trying to figure out an issue with my cooling system. Hoping to get some ideas on how to resolve it.

Last week, my truck overheated on the way to work. I managed to pull over quickly and turn the engine off with some white steam coming up from under the hood afterward. While I waited for the tow truck, I noticed that the coolant overflow was empty. And when I got the truck home, the radiator had at most a pint of coolant drain out of it. A while back, I noticed that the truck had been leaking oil, and I suspected that it was the famous oil cooler issue. I got confirmation from a dealership a bit later. I had actually been planning to replace the oil cooler only two days after the truck overheated, but I guess I wasn't quick enough (I got the replacement a day before!). So after I got it home, I spent some time replacing the cooler (upgraded to 2014 version), and I also replaced the plugs since I had the intake off. I figured it would be a good idea to flush the radiator afterward in case any oil got into the coolant, and that's where things have been getting more difficult for me. I wanted to make sure that the cooling system was working before I flushed it because the flush instructions say that it cannot remain in the system more than 4 hours. So, I filled the radiator with water as a temporary measure and started the truck up. It runs fine, and I watched the coolant temperature on the dash rise to about 230 degrees before I got nervous with it and turned it off. The radiator fan had kicked on probably just before it hit 230, but the hoses to it were not very warm. The top one was still cool, and the bottom one was lukewarm. One of the smaller hoses in the front of the engine was much warmer. While it was running, I also noticed that I wasn't getting any heat out of the interior vents even with the heat turned all the way up.

Btw, re air in the lines, I did want to bleed it using the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing, but I'm not sure why anyone would design it so that it was buried almost under the throttle with a thick cable running over the top of it. There is literally about an inch of space over the top of the screw when you pull the cable back. No way to reach it without pulling the intake resonator off the throttle assembly.

So, am I doing something wrong? To me, this seems like coolant isn't flowing to the radiator. Failed thermostat or pump? Anything else that I can check? Anything to get me moving forward again would be appreciated!
 

GTyankee

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The guy that made this video is a great mechanic & he specializes in Chrysler products

watch this video on replacing a 3.6l water pump & the correct way to bleed the air out

 
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borgille

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The guy that made this video is a great mechanic & he specializes in Chrysler products

watch this video on replacing a 3.6l water pump & the correct way to bleed the air out


Thanks @GTyankee! I hadn't seen that one. I'll check it out. I've watched many of the Motor City Mechanic videos before. They were a great help when I was replacing the oil cooler. Btw, I have a pretty good suspicion that the thermostat is shot. I'm sure the water pump will be on the todo list soon enough. :)
 
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borgille

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So I changed out the tstat, and bled the air out using the bleed screw on the tstat housing. After I got everything back together, I started the truck and let it warm up. It still got up to 230 deg before I shut it down again. Radiator hoses were still cold, so I'm not sure if the new tstat is working. The line coming out of the pump was hot. I tested the old tstat in boiling water, and it didn't open, but it did allow a very slow trickle even when it was cold. That said, there was no heat coming from the heater in the truck cabin. The "Diagnosis and Testing" info for the water pump in the TechAuthority service docs say this:
A quick test to determine if the water pump is working is to check if the heater warms properly. A defective water pump will
not be able to circulate heated coolant through the long heater hose to the heater core.
So, I guess I'll be trying a new water pump now.
 
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borgille

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Feel like I'm playing Whack-a-mole with parts. I changed out the water pump. The old one didn't look terrible after I got it off, but I put the new one in all the same. I also tested the thermostat in boiling water, and although it doesn't open nice like I expect the OEM part with the metal housing does, it still opened a bit -- I'm not sure how far it's supposed to go. In my opinion it didn't open as much as I would have expected. Anyway, after I got everything back together, still no change. The hoses going to the radiator didn't warm up. I did notice that when I revved it good, I could feel heat coming out of the vents in the cabin. I figure that means that the pump is getting warmed coolant to the heater core...barely. It didn't stay hot when I wasn't revving it though. It seems like maybe there's a blockage somewhere. About to give up since I'm running out of ideas.
 
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borgille

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Looks like all I had to do was take it for a drive. Everything was working after a drive up and down our steep hill. Guessing maybe some air got behind the thermostat even though I bled it (you could hear the air coming out followed by coolant). Thanks for your help again @GTyankee!
 

GTyankee

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Your very welcome
I no longer work on vehicles, but i look for answers online & more often than not, someone else has had the same issue(s)
 
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