Core 4x4

[Longhorn1500]

Do you tow? I've got a light foot on the gas pedal. But I'm always looking to make the truck feel more planted while towing the TT. Wonder if anyone here has any personal experience with this question and can chime in.

I don't tow anything worth talking about. Maybe a small trailer for my mower or a few bags of mulch, but nothing compared to what you probably tow.
Jay

I tow a 9,000 pound trailer (I know, this is a big load for a half-ton truck, and this is 3/4-ton territory (according to other post responses to me); I am going to stick with this truck though) and notice that the truck feels "squishy/unsteady" when towing. Also when pulling the trailer up steep grades in the rain, while accelerating, I get wheel hop when the tire spins (I have peg-leg diff.). I am hoping this cures or at least reduces these issues. I read a testimonial in the towing section that this upgrade helped with these issues. I have just returned from a two-week vacation, so am planning on installing these parts soon. Will update with results when complete (may not have towing experience until Summer).

 

[Longhorn1500]

Only negative is they have to be removed from the truck to be adjusted.

They are adjustable on the truck. You just have to loosen the lock nuts and turn the control arm shaft. One end is left-hand threads. The panhard bar has an adjustment collar with left-hand threads on one end.

 

[Longhorn1500]

Panhard Installed...

 

[crazykid1994]

How does that pan hard bar change the feel? I installed the end links but the grease zerk would have hit the bracket so I installed them on the outside of the bracket instead of the inside.

 

[Gary2]

I have lowers coming just to keep the rear from hopping around on Rough roads and on turns . I used to use arms with JJ's on both ends of the Aluminum arms on my wranglers but found that stiffened the ride and contributed to road noise. I swapped the JJ's ends for Duroflex bushings from a company called Metalcloak on all 6 ends on the upper arms on my TJ's. That changed the ride greatly. Lowers with the JJs do a better job locating the axles .The softer MetalCloak bushings in the uppers contributed to a smooth ride and flexed even better than 14 Johnny joints and naturally out lasted Heim joints on a daily driver. OE arms have a bit too much soft clevite for a bushing which isolates noise and vibes nicely but allows to much movement in the process which translate into unwanted axle movement .
metalcloak-duroflex-joints-suspension-builder-parts.html

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

They are adjustable on the truck. You just have to loosen the lock nuts and turn the control arm shaft. One end is left-hand threads. The panhard bar has an adjustment collar with left-hand threads on one end.

Cores arms do not have adj rod ends on both sides...therefore cannot be adjusted on the truck.
These arms have a hex head machined into the tube adaptor, and both ends have sealed adj rod ends at both ends.
So these arms can be adjusted on the vehicle.

 

[Longhorn1500]

Cores arms do not have adj rod ends on both sides...therefore cannot be adjusted on the truck.
These arms have a hex head machined into the tube adaptor, and both ends have sealed adj rod ends at both ends.
So these arms can be adjusted on the vehicle.

Beg to differ. My Core 4X4 Tier Four control arms have adjustments on both ends. As mentioned above, one end is left-hand thread, so you just loosen the lock nuts and turn the control arm shaft to adjust them. See the picture on post #43 above, the short control arms in the box are together and you can see the lock nuts on each end.

Looking at the Core 4X4 website now, the Tier 3 control arms are welded at one end, so not adjustable in the same way, you would have to remove one end from the truck to do the adjustment.

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

@Longhorn1500 is correct, Core 4x4 TIER 4 control arms have adjustments at both ends. That is the main difference between Tier 3 and Tier 4.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Beg to differ. My Core 4X4 Tier Four control arms have adjustments on both ends. As mentioned above, one end is left-hand thread, so you just loosen the lock nuts and turn the control arm shaft to adjust them. See the picture on post #43 above, the short control arms in the box are together and you can see the lock nuts on each end.

Looking at the Core 4X4 website now, the Tier 3 control arms are welded at one end, so not adjustable in the same way, you would have to remove one end from the truck to do the adjustment.

I’m a little confused...even if one end is left hand, and the other right hand thread, where on the tube do you put a wrench to adjust them while they are mounted on the truck?

 

[Longhorn1500]

I’m a little confused...even if one end is left hand, and the other right hand thread, where on the tube do you put a wrench to adjust them while they are mounted on the truck?

You are correct, there is no hex or flat surface on the control arm tube. I have not done it yet, but when the lock nuts are loose, the tube should turn easily by hand or using a strap wrench.

 

[Gary2]

Like the aluminum arms I use on the jeep I put disc brake lube on the threads ( better than anti-seize ) before installing. Once You back off the Jam nuts on the two arms you are adjusting on Tier 4 type. Easily by hand turn both arms at the same time . If one feels like its binding you got ahead with one of the arms just back off a little then continue adjusting with both arms. When they are even they turn easily at the same time. Takes a little time to learn how to tighten the jam nuts real tight and so both ends line up perfectly with each other but it gets easier as you learn . Much nicer than having to remove an end to adjust.

 

[Longhorn1500]

Okay, got the Control Arms on. Boy, those nuts are a bear to get loose, but pretty straightforward install. I made the arms the same length as the stock arms. I have not driven it yet, but they look great!!

 

[RedSRT4Me]

Like the aluminum arms I use on the jeep I put disc brake lube on the threads ( better than anti-seize ) before installing. Once You back off the Jam nuts on the two arms you are adjusting on Tier 4 type. Easily by hand turn both arms at the same time . If one feels like its binding you got ahead with one of the arms just back off a little then continue adjusting with both arms. When they are even they turn easily at the same time. Takes a little time to learn how to tighten the jam nuts real tight and so both ends line up perfectly with each other but it gets easier as you learn . Much nicer than having to remove an end to adjust.

I learned the hard way about not using antisieze
on the threads. Luckily I had a BFW
and wrestled them free.
Lube your nutz guys .... hell its 2020... n gals

 

[Gary2]

Another trick is to just snug up the Jam nut then install the arms once installed just slide a screw driver up between the JJ and the bracket so the end can't rotate . I then put my 18" adjustable on the jam nut and tighten the hell out of it . The Screwdriver or what ever you use will keep the end squared up with the mount as you tighten. Then they will be tight enough to not come loose when flexing the suspension . Like I mentioned its an old Jeep trick from when we use Savvy's, Aluminum double adjustable arms.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

You are correct, there is no hex or flat surface on the control arm tube. I have not done it yet, but when the lock nuts are loose, the tube should turn easily by hand or using a strap wrench.

Gotcha. I decided to use tube adaptors with hex nuts machined into them, so the arms can be adjusted without jacking up the axle. As long as a truck axle with cores installed is suspended, they should turn by hand.

 

[2010 Infantry Vet]

Another trick is to just snug up the Jam nut then install the arms once installed just slide a screw driver up between the JJ and the bracket so the end can't rotate . I then put my 18" adjustable on the jam nut and tighten the hell out of it . The Screwdriver or what ever you use will keep the end squared up with the mount as you tighten. Then they will be tight enough to not come loose when flexing the suspension . Like I mentioned its an old Jeep trick from when we use Savvy's, Aluminum double adjustable arms.

That’s why I used tube adaptors with hex nuts machined into them. With my arms, you don’t even have to jack the axle up. Just loosen lock nuts, and put a wrench on the hex nut and adjust them.
I know tons of people that had Johhny joints seize up dirt track racing, and driving in northeastern snow.
Even when greased, the OPEN joints allow the salt and dirt to get in and seize them up. Cores Johhny joints aren’t warrantied, just damage to the tube.
That’s why I use SPC sealed joints.
Maintence free since they are sealed. They also flex 15° more than Johhny joints.

 

[Gary2]

That’s why I used tube adaptors with hex nuts machined into them. With my arms, you don’t even have to jack the axle up. Just loosen lock nuts, and put a wrench on the hex nut and adjust them.
I know tons of people that had Johhny joints seize up dirt track racing, and driving in northeastern snow.
Even when greased, the OPEN joints allow the salt and dirt to get in and seize them up. Cores Johhny joints aren’t warrantied, just damage to the tube.
That’s why I use SPC sealed joints.
Maintence free since they are sealed. They also flex 15° more than Johhny joints.

View attachment 197100

I see you quoted me for some reason, no clue why.. The arms I speak of do not need a place for a wrench to adjust and can be adjusted on the ground like most any other arms with a threaded in end on each end of the arm . The aluminum arms on my Jeeps are from a company named Savvy . At one time they used to machine flat spots on the tube which was there to help with the Jam nuts. They stopped putting the flat spots on because people were using them to put wrenches on to adjust the length of the arm which usually ended up with a bound up end, not what they were there for . While the vehicle ins on the ground you can adjust by hand turning the two arms you are adjusting at the same time once you loosen the jam nuts on both arms. If one arm stops turning you got ahead on adjusting one of the arms , back off the tight one and continue adjusting. If you need a wrench to turn it you have not maintained the arms pure and simple . to tighten just snug up each jam nut alternating each one till the ends had rotated in the mounts . This keeps them aligned. Continue tightening without changing the adjustment you made. eventually you can hang on your wrench to really tighten it . As far as JJs no lasting that sounds more like lack of maintenance from my experience. I know I am not in PA but I am only in NJ and we have the same elements plus a small Ocean just to add some more salt if the brine on the frigging road isn't enough. 20 years of using Jonny Joints on my Daily drivers because heim joints don't last on a DD from what I ve read , fine on race cars and trucks though. The amount of flex from JJ's has never been the flex limiting factor on my rigs. As in most cases its something else on the vehicle thats not up to maxing out JJ's.

 

[69GWC]

Finally got mine installed.

 

[Longhorn1500]

Finally got mine installed.

View attachment 197185

View attachment 197186

Those look great! Thank you for sharing. I love the color of your truck.

 

[Graygoose]

Look great!!!