Dealership Oil Changes

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50BMG

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Oh, and regarding oil filters, I always run a no-bypass type of filter too. Yes, you need to train yourself to look at the oil pressure gauge periodically, but a no-bypass filter WILL save your entire engine should something small/localized to go bad...
 

corneileous

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Regarding the "recommended oil", so long as an oil's SAE/API certification numbers match, the oils will be nearly identical for all intents and purposes and I cannot see how Ram could void a warranty when the alternative oil meets the same essential ratings from the universally accepted agencies (although some minor additives may be different between the brands).
Think of it this way, Corvettes may come with the Goodyear "recommended" tires, but is that because those are what the car was designed to run best on, or did Chevy have a deal to get the Corvette tires for free from Goodyear? It's usually the second one is the real reason for the recommendation.
As they say on TV, your mileage may vary...
;-)

I really don’t either, and who knows, a good lawyer and a really convincing judge that would think a manufacturer is full of **** with all the evidence given, you’d probably stand a good chance winning your case anyways but still, if you got warranty, why not just run what they “recommend”? It if breaks, you get to go in there with a crooked grin and say ok, now fix it. I’m kind of in the middle, I bought lifetime warranty but, I don’t want my truck to ever be in the shop for anything, much less over a motor. That’s why I use the cream of the crop Pennzoil and change it every 6,000 to 6,500 miles with a better quality synthetic media filter which is far short of when the oil life meter tells me to change it.


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corneileous

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Oh, and regarding oil filters, I always run a no-bypass type of filter too. Yes, you need to train yourself to look at the oil pressure gauge periodically, but a no-bypass filter WILL save your entire engine should something small/localized to go bad...

Until one slip up and you let your filter plug up completely then you have no lubrication at all. Good quality filters that are changed a little more frequent would be my choice.


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RammerHarder

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Oh, and regarding oil filters, I always run a no-bypass type of filter too. Yes, you need to train yourself to look at the oil pressure gauge periodically, but a no-bypass filter WILL save your entire engine should something small/localized to go bad...
Would you be willing to share which oil filter you`re speaking of that you are using on your hemi engine..?
 

dmilani

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I just bought a brand new 2018 Ram 1500 in February with 19 miles.

It came with 6 oil changes up until I reach 30k miles.

When they do these oil changes will they just use standard oil or can you ask them to use full synthetic?
 

50BMG

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I hear ya Cornelius on using their "recommended" lube, especially with the extended warranty purchase...

Until one slip up and you let your filter plug up completely then you have no lubrication at all. Good quality filters that are changed a little more frequent would be my choice.

Yes and no... Yes, as mentioned a no bypass filter does require that you pay attention to your oil pressure gauge periodically while driving, but in reality, when a filter begins to plug for whatever reason, oil pressure does not drop to "zero" instantly, giving you plenty of time to pull over or find a freeway exit, etc.... to investigate. No, you cannot drive around for week with a filter that is getting plugged up, but hopefully you look at your pressure gauge more frequently than that?

BUT, when the filter does start to plug up, whatever the reason is, a no-bypass filter is capturing 100% of it, thus preventing serious engine damage elsewhere. It can also tell you you have a problem internally before it becomes too serious.

For instance, a Cobra friend had a value spring break, and since he was running a no bypass filter, the filter captured all the small spring parts and prevented serious engine damage elsewhere. The engine even ran fine with the partially broken spring in one cylinder, but he noticed the pressure drop on the gauge and knew something was wrong so he investigated. I had another Cobra acquaintance have the same thing happen but while running a bypass type filter. As designed, when the parts got into the filter and plugged the element, the bypass spring opened up and allowed all the shards of broken spring to pass through the oiling system after the filter. Can you say COMPLETE ENGINE REBUILD, only because of the bypass in the filter...

Yes, these were high performance engines but the same thing can happen with a street car too.
The only time I wouldn't use a low-micron no bypass type is during engine break in when the levels of larger particulates in the oil are normally higher (bearing babbitt, etc...)
 

dmilani

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2014 1500 Hemi. Change every 5000. Take it to dealer. They use Penn Synthetic Blend.
Cannot waste my time for the little they charge. And it’s done right.

You have to take it to dealer for recalls anyway. So why not let them do service. Also have a full record of service when you go to sell it.
 
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WY-Dave

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capture-jpg.163678


Mopar or Shell for the Diesels, after the one free change T4 for me.
 

50BMG

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Would you be willing to share which oil filter you`re speaking of that you are using on your hemi engine..?

I use Canton billet aluminum ones. You just replace the element when you change the oil.
They make a short body one and a longer body one. I think the factory Hemi stub is 22mm.
Again, I would not recommend using this type on a new engine/during break in. They filter too well for that.

I think AC Delco also has a throw away, no bypass filter under their "Pro" line or something like that???

RC Racing also makes no bypass throw away oil filters that some of my Cobra friends use, but I'm not sure if they make one with a 22mm stub that will fit the Ram or not???
 

MTS

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I just bought a brand new 2018 Ram 1500 in February with 19 miles.

It came with 6 oil changes up until I reach 30k miles.

When they do these oil changes will they just use standard oil or can you ask them to use full synthetic?
Did you ask them?
 

StoneDude76

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I hear ya Cornelius on using their "recommended" lube, especially with the extended warranty purchase...



Yes and no... Yes, as mentioned a no bypass filter does require that you pay attention to your oil pressure gauge periodically while driving, but in reality, when a filter begins to plug for whatever reason, oil pressure does not drop to "zero" instantly, giving you plenty of time to pull over or find a freeway exit, etc.... to investigate. No, you cannot drive around for week with a filter that is getting plugged up, but hopefully you look at your pressure gauge more frequently than that?

BUT, when the filter does start to plug up, whatever the reason is, a no-bypass filter is capturing 100% of it, thus preventing serious engine damage elsewhere. It can also tell you you have a problem internally before it becomes too serious.

For instance, a Cobra friend had a value spring break, and since he was running a no bypass filter, the filter captured all the small spring parts and prevented serious engine damage elsewhere. The engine even ran fine with the partially broken spring in one cylinder, but he noticed the pressure drop on the gauge and knew something was wrong so he investigated. I had another Cobra acquaintance have the same thing happen but while running a bypass type filter. As designed, when the parts got into the filter and plugged the element, the bypass spring opened up and allowed all the shards of broken spring to pass through the oiling system after the filter. Can you say COMPLETE ENGINE REBUILD, only because of the bypass in the filter...

Yes, these were high performance engines but the same thing can happen with a street car too.
The only time I wouldn't use a low-micron no bypass type is during engine break in when the levels of larger particulates in the oil are normally higher (bearing babbitt, etc...)
So what happens to the oil pressure when the bypass valve opens. I just started a thread asking this question.

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50BMG

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So what happens to the oil pressure when the bypass valve opens. I just started a thread asking this question.

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Stone Dude,
If you've ever cut a filter apart, the bypass assembly at the bottom of the filter body is laughingly simple.
Basically, its a round plate about the diameter of the filter body's I.D. which is held against the bottom of the internal filter element body by a simple compression spring.

As you probably know, oil flows goes into the filter under pressure through the outside perimeter holes in the base. From there it gets forced through the filter element and into the center portion of the filter. From there it then gets pushed up through the center tube and into the engines internal oil passages to lube the different engine components.

In a filter with a bypass, when the oil pressure between the outside filter body and the internal filter element crosses a design threshold (somewhere between 10-20# I think), as it would when/if the filter element begins to get plugged, it will compress that spring and push the plate away from the end of the internal filter element. This allows the oil to flow completely past the plugged up internal filter element, do a U turn and flow directly into the center of the filter, up into the central feed tube and up into the engines oil passages, obviously completely un-filtered. This valve opens slowly as the pressure builds, so the amount of bypassing of the filter element is small at first and gets greater as the filter plugs (or if a large piece of debris like a chunk of gasket, valve spring, etc... gets wedged between the bypass plate the filter element itself, then it bypasses constantly).

So, to answer your question, with a bypass type of filter, by the time the filter plugs and the valve on the bottom begins to bypass, you probably haven't noticed ANY kind of pressure loses on the oil gauge, unless you had your eyes pinned on it constantly. So, when it happens, if it was something significant that failed to plug the filter which doesn't necessarily affect how the engine runs right away (or how it runs at speed like on the track or on the highway possibly), completely undetected you are allowing that debris to bypass the filter element and go up into other sensitive parts of your motor to cause even more damage.

With a no bypass filter, when something bad happens, all the debris stays inside the filter body. It begins to plug the internal filter element, and even if the engine is still running fine, you notice something is wrong because the oil pressure unexpectedly begins to drop. Oil pressure does NOT usually go to "zero pressure" right away. But it will drop slowly, usually giving you plenty of time to shut it down and investigate what is going wrong.

Bypass type of filter; see the spring loaded plate at the top of the filter? High tech huh?
extended-life-oil-filter-cutaway.png

No bypass type, no spring loaded plate. Nothing gets through besides stuff small enough to make it through the filter element itself...
3d_oil_filter.jpg
 

QwikKota

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2014 1500 Hemi. Change every 5000. Take it to dealer. They use Penn Synthetic Blend.
Cannot waste my time for the little they charge. And it’s done right.

You have to take it to dealer for recalls anyway. So why not let them do service. Also have a full record of service when you go to sell it.
Some of us like working on our vehicles and don't trust service techs. All I should have to do for records is a log and a receipt. I don't have time during the work week to wait on an oil change but can do it on my weekends off. With rebates, the price of the oil change is around $30.

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jackham

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From my experience and understanding the dealers can use any oil (or any fluid for the specific application) that has the required certification for that vehicle.

PUP is not required


But some dealers use fluids that are NOT certified.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]


Just curious as to how you are so certain about that.
 

U&A

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Just curious as to how you are so certain about that.

From “my experience and understanding”. My dealer is my reference for this info.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
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Burstingbb

Burstingbb

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They confirmed before the service that full synthetic would be used. They confirmed with me at pick up that Pennzoil full synthetic was used
 

Billyo

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i was offered 6 oil changes as well at time of purchase. i never showed up.
i feel the most safest way and one that leaves absolutely no doubt is to do it yourself. which i do.
i just slide under it in my driveway. filter is a PITA but nonetheless quite manageable. leaves no head scratching, plus i can take my time while draining and pre-lube the filter. tell me any tech. who will do that at a dealer for you.
 

corneileous

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i was offered 6 oil changes as well at time of purchase. i never showed up.
i feel the most safest way and one that leaves absolutely no doubt is to do it yourself. which i do.
i just slide under it in my driveway. filter is a PITA but nonetheless quite manageable. leaves no head scratching, plus i can take my time while draining and pre-lube the filter. tell me any tech. who will do that at a dealer for you.

The cheap ******** I bought mine from only offered one. Lol. And to boot, I had to pay an extra 20 bucks just to get full synthetic.

Oh well, if my first filter was on as tight as others have said they can be at the factory, I let them deal with it.


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