Eibach pro lift, 5100s, 6112s, the list goes on.

[hodge-xj]

I know looks aren't everything but damn those look good. I really need to get some funds together. Being an apprentice really snuffs the fun money

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[hodge-xj]

So just sat and priced out all my options. I'm really leaning towards the 6112s, eibach 1" rear coils, 5100 rear shocks.

Through car id it's right at 1000. I'll be using affirm to get it ordered and knock the initial sting of purchase.

There's part of me, and I think everyone, that wants to save a few bucks. Tho the eibach kit complete would only hit me for roughly 750 I can't be certain enough to take the risk and be unhappy and have to go an redo it. For an extra 250 I think the front end setup would be more beneficial. Bigger, more proven shocks, only 2.3 lift so no where near maxed out and lifetime warranty.

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[bruiserRAM]

So just sat and priced out all my options. I'm really leaning towards the 6112s, eibach 1" rear coils, 5100 rear shocks

Any updates? Did you purchase/install anything yet?

Looking at the 6112 at 2.6" in front with 5100 in rear and a 1" coil spacer (5.7L Hemi 1500 on 33" Toyo ATs)

I don't get crazy off road, but I'm about 50/50 road and dirt with some rocks and steep mining roads. Clearance is important to me...but hesitant to set the 6112 at max height and lose too much down travel.

thanks.

 

[hodge-xj]

Any updates? Did you purchase/install anything yet?

Looking at the 6112 at 2.6" in front with 5100 in rear and a 1" coil spacer (5.7L Hemi 1500 on 33" Toyo ATs)

I don't get crazy off road, but I'm about 50/50 road and dirt with some rocks and steep mining roads. Clearance is important to me...but hesitant to set the 6112 at max height and lose too much down travel.

thanks.

No, I'm still saving up, got laid off for a bit so fun money is sparse. Probably gonna try out the eibach pro kit. For the price and what I do it hopefully will fill my needs. I'm 99.9% pavement so hopefully it maintains some decent composure over broken highways. I've seen some reports that 6112s are back ordered, not sure on that but I'm not keen on paying for something and having to wait months for suppliers to fill orders. The eibach should net 2.7 on the highest setting and its similar to bilsteins in most aspects, just a toss up with the net height under the eco diesel. Still haven't been able to pin down actual travel numbers at that height, but I think it should be sufficient. I believe my truck droops about 4-4.5" with oem struts plus a spacer, so take the ride height of struts out of that and it leaves you with 2-2.5 which is way more than my 2013 f150 had on the 5100s installed and that truck rode great for what it was. Measure from ride height to full droop, center of hub to fender, if your truck is still stock and post it up as a reference if you could, than we can get a good idea of where we'll be on adjustable struts. Mine should be close but I'm not saying its exact since I have spacers front the previous owner. Fingers crossed I can get this kit ordered within a week and ill get to a review and install on a thread here. In a perfect world id love to run the 6112s and icons coils etc,but I don't think I can justify the cost vs actual applications.

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[Quick_Shifter]

I have read in several different places , guys saying the springs that come with the 6112's are made by eibach.

Eibach makes the coils for Fox not Bilstein. Bilstein makes their own

 

[bruiserRAM]

I believe my truck droops about 4-4.5" with oem struts plus a spacer, so take the ride height of struts out of that and it leaves you with 2-2.5 which is way more than my 2013 f150 had on the 5100s installed and that truck rode great for what it was. Measure from ride height to full droop, center of hub to fender, if your truck is still stock and post it up as a reference if you could, than we can get a good idea of where we'll be on adjustable struts.

Thanks for the reply and measurement!

My truck also has spacers (2.5" Daystar) installed from the dealer when I purchased it. I've never even measured my factory rake, just guessing on lift (It seems to be about 2.5")

I also don't currently have a good jack, just the factory one. Maybe I'll measure anyway...

 

[hodge-xj]

Yea, my spacer was installed already as well. So I am assuming as you are. And my jack maxed out around the same time I believe the tire started lifting so I went with a range. Either way there's quite a bit of actual wheel travel on these trucks so I think we should be just fine. I'm hoping to get the eibach kit soon, my oem stuff is trashed.

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[bruiserRAM]

OK, measured my droop. (with Daystar 2.5" spacers and 285/70/R17, everything else stock)

Front passenger. Distance from center of hub to fender (no fender flares)
23 3/4 @ rest
27 1/2 @ full droop
3 3/4" total down travel

Front driver measures 23 1/2 at rest, but I didn't measure at droop.

So, for me, between 3.75 and 4" down travel. If I get the 6112 and put at 2.6" height...I'll be at 1.14-1.4 of down travel left? That's a bummer.

Wonder if new UCA's (like Zones that account for 2-3" lifts) would increase the down travel or what? Now I'm even further from a decision...

 

[hodge-xj]

OK, measured my droop. (with Daystar 2.5" spacers and 285/70/R17, everything else stock)

Front passenger. Distance from center of hub to fender (no fender flares)
23 3/4 @ rest
27 1/2 @ full droop
3 3/4" total down travel

Front driver measures 23 1/2 at rest, but I didn't measure at droop.

So, for me, between 3.75 and 4" down travel. If I get the 6112 and put at 2.6" height...I'll be at 1.14-1.4 of down travel left? That's a bummer.

Wonder if new UCA's (like Zones that account for 2-3" lifts) would increase the down travel or what? Now I'm even further from a decision...

Ok Even better. Exact numbers.

So as far as I've read, bilstein are a touch longer than oem. I have a real hard time tracking the exact numbers down but I believe it was like 1/4 to maybe 1/2 length. Figure that the max setting is 2.6, so that leaves 1.4 of down travel. My f150 had about 1.25 droop at most and it wasn't bad by any means. Granted in some instances you'll notice the front feel like it "tops out" or kinda "pops" off the ground over a sharp speed bump, but it's over exaggerated on the web. I think I honestly noticed it maybe 5 times I can recall, and it was over the same pothole every time. Our stock ucas are allowing our struts, which have 2.5" of extra length over stock struts mind you, fully droop. I think people run aftermarket ucas for reliability and peace of mind with potential bj probs. Not that there aren't many benefits but I can only speculate that they don't offer more available droop. That's dictated by overall length of the assembly installed. Aside from running kings or something higher end I feel we are limited to a few choices. I fully understand your concern, I went through quite a big fiasco with my f150 before I was content, to than trade it in on my ecodiesel [emoji23]. But I also think we are maybe over analysing a bit. Plus, if you are unhappy they are still adjustable enough you can drop it a notch at a time until you achieve the desired ride quality. A time consuming pain in the **** but it's an option. Unfortunately it's a compromise, bump vs droop travel vs desired looks vs ride quality. There's not perfect answer, just what fits your intentions best.

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[bruiserRAM]

Thanks for your thoughts! I go off road a fair amount, maybe almost 50/50 road/dirt...with about 15% of that dirt being fairly gnarly to get to hunting spots or secret camping zones.

I don't wanna lose anything...but I do wanna gain some clearance! looks like just a UCA upgrade for now is maybe the best option? Then when stock shocks are shot, I can get the upgrade to 6112s or whatever at that time...

Although, a spacer above the strut assembly may lessen up travel by the size of the spacer? Gah!

 

[Joes1500]

Eibach makes the coils for Fox not Bilstein. Bilstein makes their own

There are several people over on other sites that have called eibach to get spring specs for the 6112's and have been given the info. Bilstien and eibach have a partnership on the shocks/struts as well. Atleast according to the info they were given.

 

[hodge-xj]

Thanks for your thoughts! I go off road a fair amount, maybe almost 50/50 road/dirt...with about 15% of that dirt being fairly gnarly to get to hunting spots or secret camping zones.

I don't wanna lose anything...but I do wanna gain some clearance! looks like just a UCA upgrade for now is maybe the best option? Then when stock shocks are shot, I can get the upgrade to 6112s or whatever at that time...

Although, a spacer above the strut assembly may lessen up travel by the size of the spacer? Gah!

So, maybe consider running new upper control arms, and keeping your current strut spacer on top of 6112s set to zero lift. You maintain full droop and bump travel, same as oem strut and spacer, alleviate the potential upper arm and bj issue as well as free up some strain in the available range of motion and gain the better damping properties of a better shock. Its gonna cost the same, considering you already have the spacer, aside from time spent swapping the setups if you're unhappy with performance.

Most suggest against it since it pushes some components past the suggest range of travel, but as long as you are mindful and keep away from heavy throttle bouncing the front end in 4x4 I think you'll be ok. I haven't destroyed my truck with oem struts and spacers and I'm not nice to this thing much. Can't expect solid axle durability out of ifs but its not goin to explode once you take it off pavement either. I still heavily consider this as an option as well....

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[ram1500rsm]

Thanks for your thoughts! I go off road a fair amount, maybe almost 50/50 road/dirt...with about 15% of that dirt being fairly gnarly to get to hunting spots or secret camping zones.

I don't wanna lose anything...but I do wanna gain some clearance! looks like just a UCA upgrade for now is maybe the best option? Then when stock shocks are shot, I can get the upgrade to 6112s or whatever at that time...

Although, a spacer above the strut assembly may lessen up travel by the size of the spacer? Gah!

Yep, that's basically what's happening with a spacer above the strut, you're literally extending down the shock by the spacer size as the whole assembly is shifting down, that means your uptravel is cut by that amount, and your bumpstop should cover for that, i dont think the factory shocks will have a bumpstop that big to prevent the shock from collapsing on a big rebound, you're basically relying on your foot to control how bad/good your shocks behave when it cycles , that's prob why some of the 4-6" lifts will cover for that, and will have you running different knucle hubs, relocated strut mounts, diff drops, etc, etc.

With an IFS, you only have so much down travel before the control arms will bind, or the BJ's will bind. If you want longer struts for down travel, you can only go down so much before this happens. You should get long travel lower control arms, when you want to extend the down travel past that point, you should also think dumping the traditional BJ and going uniball in your control arms, along with longer UCA's as well, typically with IFS you value uptravel if you don't have longer arms, and you value coilovers that can withstand offroad abuse, when you want more offroad/suspension travel performance, you go long travel. There is a big difference in what you see with this bracketry stuff to go 4 or 6", vs what your IFS suspension looks like when you want to set a truck up to run washboards and hoops at more speed.

If you want to run a spacer because of budget, consider the ones that preload the spring, they don't relocate the shock down as much as a top of the strut spacer will do. you should get aftermarket struts either way because they run a different valving that can help tame the preload in case you this way. as for the rear, you can get longer rear shocks from most vendors to acomodate different lifts and it's typically easier to simple add the needed bumpstop or add a big spacers, or longer rear springs, depending on what're you're doing.

Have fun.

 

[bruiserRAM]

...Have fun.

Wow! Lots of good info here. Thank you!

I definitely can budget in something more than a spacer, but I'm not looking to get crazy with say, an Icon kit or something. I'm somewhere between wanting something better than the Bils 5100 but cheaper than Fox if poss...which obviously led me to the Bils 6112 stuff. Currently what I'm considering (50/50 road/dirt with 15% of the dirt mandatory 4x4 with some clearance) are:

1) Keep my 2.5" Daystar spacer, and add UCAs (Zone or consider uniballs?) Pros: would maintain my current down travel, which I like, and eliminate the problem of blowing a BJ, and price. Cons: Limited up travel, and the bumpstop problems illustrated by ram1500rsm above. The factory ride is a wash either way because I don't mind it....but maybe I don't know what I'm missing?

2) Get Bils 6112 up front, set at 2.6" and ditch the spacer. Pros: ******* shocks and coils for a good price, maintain my front end 2.5" lift for clearing rocks/stumps. Cons: Losing down travel...seems like a lot to lose!? Also, installation is harder with compressing springs.

3) Option #2 with added UCA's. Pros: Like #2 but better? Cons: Price.

4) Some other coilover like Fox or this Eibach kit the OP is considering...Pros: who knows? Cons: Price and the agony of starting to research more crap. ha..

[In the back I do later intend to lift by an inch or so via a coil spacer and get new shocks as well. Either bils 5100, fox 2.0 or even the Icon 2.0]


SORRY to hijack the thread. I hate to start a new one though regarding basically the same stuff...especially with all the good advise/info in this one. OP, lemme know if you want me out of your thread! PS: I like your out of the box suggestion of setting them at zero and keeping the spacer...however, it just seems...weird. I feel like I would have heard this option mentioned before if it really was a good idea? Hmmmmm.

 

[hodge-xj]

No hijack man! Its all relevant! I am literally in the same situation as you so I like new ideas to consider!

The whole spacer on top of adjustable shocks is an oxy moron in a sense. Most go to adjustable struts to get away from spacers, I've seen it done, and in the real world it performed in line with just the adjustable shocks, ie there was not much discernable difference. BUT, the down travel was maintained since the shock wasn't at an extended static height because of 0 added lift, and it rode softer since there was no preload. It kinda contradicts it's self but it's been done successfully.

That being said sometimes I feel "offroad" is quite broad spectrum. I live in NJ, out here is rocks and mud and anything short of a rock buggy or ultra 4 king of the hammers rig can't survive over say 5mph for extended periods of time without being torn apart, at least not where I wheel. Which is polar opposite to running dunes and needing heavier valved resivor shocks. I'm always after a nicer softer spring rate, a bit of decent valving and wheel travel for maximum articulation. 4lo and slow is what I am in most times. My needs seem weird to west coast guys at times and I look at their builds knowing I'd never touch the equipments actual potential.

I'm trying to find my happy place as well between full blown coilovers and basic 5100s. I need more than 5100s but not quite coilovers. That being said, I'm living the dreaded ECODIESEL life and am dealing with error codes out the *****, so my only mod might be a flaming torch to this thing at this point [emoji58]

That being said, it really comes down to what you wanna spend. I priced out my "guicci" version. And it was about 1100 for 6112s, rear icon coils, rear 5100s and some odd bits. The eibach kit being about 1/2 that price with similar parts had me wondering if the difference was justifiable. Im not convinced I'd really notice that 500$ difference enough. But I also like to buy once cry once.

You can have your cake and eat it too, just is never cheap, we have opened Pandoras box and it's all down hill from here.

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[ram1500rsm]

Honestly 6112's will be fine for what you guys want to do, Eibach will be fine, Bilsteins will be fine, any decent strut will work, most prob have the same extension/compression specs, you're not changing your lower arms, so you can't really run 12" travel struts.

Just dump the spacers as far as you can and enjoy your choice of aftermarket struts with the correct amount of travel up/down, what you think you're gaining in down travel is lost in up travel, and worst your strut is not longer, you're pshysically moving the assembly/mounting location down without addressing your new upper point, so you're creating the effect of a longer shock when it droops , but a shorter one when it tucks, either way is not what you want of a suspension that is supposed to cycle a certain way.

Parts can/will last longer, and the ride will improve in pretty much any condition if the suspension as a whole can move as designed. The aftermarket is there for you to pick from a bunch of options that can help you achieve that, or if you want to improve the factory design, or if you just want a certain look and anything in between, if you want function, dump those 2.5 spacers away and never look back

 

[bruiserRAM]

if you want function, dump those 2.5 spacers away and never look back

Ok...I'm probably convinced now. haha.

As far as UCAs go...with a adjustable height shock like the 6112 or 5100 where you lose some down travel with your lift...would a UCA upgrade gain a bit of that travel back? and if so...how to tell if a uniball (Total chaos) would be any better (in terms of travel) than a ball joint style (Zone) UCA? I know a uniball has a greater range of motion...but once bolted in and paired with a Bilstein at 2.6" spring preload, is there any benefit to one or the other...or even worth upgrading at all?

 

[hodge-xj]

Ok...I'm probably convinced now. haha.

As far as UCAs go...with a adjustable height shock like the 6112 or 5100 where you lose some down travel with your lift...would a UCA upgrade gain a bit of that travel back? and if so...how to tell if a uniball (Total chaos) would be any better (in terms of travel) than a ball joint style (Zone) UCA? I know a uniball has a greater range of motion...but once bolted in and paired with a Bilstein at 2.6" spring preload, is there any benefit to one or the other...or even worth upgrading at all?

I cant see one having huge effects over the other with the limited travel and range of motion in our applications. It's more for reliability and reassurance since the oem ucas have a reputation for bj failures and aren't very strong. Though I'm speculating through prior experience on buddies rigs, mine is stock. From what I've seen id choose dependant on my climate since I know uniballs arent fond of winter and inclement weather. So I've read on the internet.

Maybe in long travel applications youd really see a difference and maintain proper angles through the R.O.M but for us I think either will benefit you and suit our needs, just pick a budget and climate friendly set and go for it. I'm in the north east so I'll be leaning towards zones or similar but either way it's a much worth while upgrade.

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[ram1500rsm]

I cant see one having huge effects over the other with the limited travel and range of motion in our applications. It's more for reliability and reassurance since the oem ucas have a reputation for bj failures and aren't very strong. Though I'm speculating through prior experience on buddies rigs, mine is stock. From what I've seen id choose dependant on my climate since I know uniballs arent fond of winter and inclement weather. So I've read on the internet.

Maybe in long travel applications youd really see a difference and maintain proper angles through the R.O.M but for us I think either will benefit you and suit our needs, just pick a budget and climate friendly set and go for it. I'm in the north east so I'll be leaning towards zones or similar but either way it's a much worth while upgrade.

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Correct, if the strut doesn't have any more built in travel, then the BJ will work just fine, uniballs can sustain a lot more abuse because they have more missaligment built in in the uniball, so for things like using and extended travel strut, they'll better suited. I've had Camburg and Total Chaos before, Camburg doesn't make anything for the RAM, Total Chaos do as well as Icon, when you want a reliable proven uniball, you can trust this brands. sure they can be a little nosie, or a lot, but sometimes its what it is, race shocks are not quiet either

 

[hodge-xj]

Correct, if the strut doesn't have any more built in travel, then the BJ will work just fine, uniballs can sustain a lot more abuse because they have more missaligment built in in the uniball, so for things like using and extended travel strut, they'll better suited. I've had Camburg and Total Chaos before, Camburg doesn't make anything for the RAM, Total Chaos do as well as Icon, when you want a reliable proven uniball, you can trust this brands. sure they can be a little nosie, or a lot, but sometimes its what it is, race shocks are not quiet either

Click clack bypass click clack click. Kinda like lunchbox lockers snapping and popping. Purpose built rigs always sound broken. The older I get the more I don't miss these things for my dd.

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