Electronics Totally Dead

[lcdtmd]

2010 RAM 1500 4x4 5.7L Hemi
I parked the truck in my driveway and everything was fine. The next morning the truck was completely dead, no electronics at all and the shift lever was stuck in park, could not move at all unless I used the manual release in the steering column. Had AAA come out to jump start or possibly replace the battery and the jump did not work. The only thing that came on were the headlights and tail lights, nothing in the cab came on. I charged my battery overnight to a full charge and reconnected it. Same problem, no electronics in the cab and shift lever is stuck in park. The headlights and tail lights did come on, infact they won't turn off in the middle of day, very sunny too. Obviously the engine won't turn over and nothing happens when I turn the ignition on. I'm sure the headlights being stuck on drained the it overnight. I checked all of the fuses and there all good. Please HELP!!!

 

[crash68]

Did you check the fuses in the connector to the positive battery terminal? (I believe there is two).

 

[Treburkulosis]

I did notice that my truck has an open recall from a few years back for something to do with the shifter not coming out of park. Its recall T79

https://www.chrysler.com/universal/webselfservice/pdf/T79.pdf

 

[lcdtmd]

Thanks to Crash and Treb for your quick responses. I've looked for two days for the fuses on both battery cables/connectors and can't find anything. I have a feeling the shift lever is locked due to an electrical problem, not mechanical. I can easily release the shifter using the little white lever in the steering column. It's a shame because the auto shop I use is literately 3 short blocks away but no power at all to start it and drive there. Guess I'll be using AAA free towing. Bummer

P.S. When I find out what the cause was I'll post it here.

 

[RBAT]

Thanks to Crash and Treb for your quick responses. I've looked for two days for the fuses on both battery cables/connectors and can't find anything. I have a feeling the shift lever is locked due to an electrical problem, not mechanical. I can easily release the shifter using the little white lever in the steering column. It's a shame because the auto shop I use is literately 3 short blocks away but no power at all to start it and drive there. Guess I'll be using AAA free towing. Bummer

P.S. When I find out what the cause was I'll post it here.

Sounds like my experience day before yesterday with my '17 Laramie CC. Doors unlocked, mixed messages on the EVIC when I turned it to start, would not crank. I grabbed the booster box that I have been lugging around and faithfully recharging for years. Not even a click when I tried to start it. This is the JNC660 that a lot of shops and car lots use and it has never failed before when starting other vehicles.

I assumed that the battery was the problem. I removed it and took it to be checked. (Those fuses that were mentioned are under the red plastic cover on the + terminal on the 2017). After pricing several sources online I headed to Sam's Club. They charged the battery for a little over an hour and then tested it. It showed bad so I bought a new one. I went with the Duracell AGM but they also have the conventional type. Back home I bolted it in and connected the cables. It fired right up with no abnormal messages.

Edit: I just happened to think about an '83 Crown Vic that my wife had years ago. It wouldn't start and we called AAA. The guy came out with a big wrecker with a battery connector mounted on the front bumper like they use on towmotor batteries. He pulled a set of jumper cables out that appeared to be made from welding cable. Plugged them in and connected them to the car battery. Even that would not turn the engine over. A new battery solved that problem.

 

[lcdtmd]

It was the TIPM, needs to be replaced. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[Treburkulosis]

It was the TIPM, needs to be replaced. Thanks for everyone's help.

Glad you were able to figure it out.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I assumed that the battery was the problem. I removed it and took it to be checked. (Those fuses that were mentioned are under the red plastic cover on the + terminal on the 2017). After pricing several sources online I headed to Sam's Club. They charged the battery for a little over an hour and then tested it. It showed bad so I bought a new one. I went with the Duracell AGM but they also have the conventional type. Back home I bolted it in and connected the cables. It fired right up with no abnormal messages.

This (above) is a pretty common experience. Had it happen myself, there have been tons of similar posts over the years. When my screen flaked-out (due to dead battery) it gave 'Failed Computer' warnings. A battery can voltage-test good ...but completely fail a load test. So a load test is always an important early step in diagnosing electronic issues. And, my suggestion is to take some of the dash messages with a grain of salt until after the test ...and/or power/cable/connection/fuse (essentially power) issues have been remedied.

OP: Just curious how you determined it was the TIPM? Note: Your truck falls into the 'bad TIPM' years, but usually its the fuel pump relay. Glad you are onto a fix for it