Engine lift

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Ken226

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I found several on Google:

1767127189000.png

1767127242085.png


But, I think If I were doing what you are doing, i'd overcomplicate and overengineer it. Instead of just having different mounting holes to adjust balance, I would add something to make it compatible with a leveller

The Harbor Freight screw type leveling thing:

1767127437195.png

1767127767421.png
 
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Daw14

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Those on the top do not make me feel comfortable, those so called bolts just leave a lot to be desired.

Those on the bottom look like they are very capable.
 
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Hagar1

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I found several on Google:

View attachment 577777

View attachment 577778


But, I think If I were doing what you are doing, i'd overcomplicate and overengineer it. Instead of just having different mounting holes to adjust balance, I would add something to make it compatible with a leveller

The Harbor Freight screw type leveling thing:

View attachment 577779

View attachment 577780
Thank you! I appreciate your help. I'm going tocheck with princess auto here. They often have some neat stuff. Thanks again
 

EdGs

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That one that uses the 10 intake bolts kinda scares me. I'd like to use the bolts at the front and back of the heads.

Agree 1000% with me over-engineering it, except in my case I would be over-complicating it.....lol
 

Ken226

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Those on the top do not make me feel comfortable, those so called bolts just leave a lot to be desired.

Those on the bottom look like they are very capable.

That one that uses the 10 intake bolts kinda scares me. I'd like to use the bolts at the front and back of the heads.

Agree 1000% with me over-engineering it, except in my case I would be over-complicating it.....lol


The intake bolts on a 5.7 Hemi are m6x1.0

A typical automotive cylinder head is made of A356-t6 aluminum alloy, which has a shear strength of about 20,000psi, on the low end of its allowable tolerance.
1767204744047.png

Assuming they are threaded at least 1/2" into the cylinder head, then each bolt puts about 0.37" of area in shear, so the force needed to pull the bolt/threads out the cylinder head will be about 7400lbs per bolt. Multiply x the number of bolts.


A cheap, grade5, 6mm diameter bolt has about .044 square inches of area in section, and the tensile strength of a grade 5 bolt material is about 120,000psi:
1767204850456.png

So, a single 6mm grade 5 bolt with .044 square inches of area in shear can take 5260lbs of force before it yeilds in tension. Multiply x the number of bolts.


A Hemi weights about 700lbs:
1767205232948.png



I don't think the weight of the engine would be a concern with either of the lifting tools above. The engineers who designed those left alot of margin for safety.
 
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Hagar1

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That one that uses the 10 intake bolts kinda scares me. I'd like to use the bolts at the front and back of the heads.

Agree 1000% with me over-engineering it, except in my case I would be over-complicating it.....lol
Yes, those bolts are kind of puny. I agree with bolts front and back, it just makes more sense.
 
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Hagar1

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I use 2 seatbelts to the exhaust manifolds lol im cheap works every time tho.
Good old seatbelts, they do a lot more than hold someone in a seat. Another "strap" that works well is the meat straps that they use to hang beef in the slaughter house. 1 strap will easily take the weight of an engine. I knew a fellow that worked in a meat processing plant, he had plenty of access for those.
 

04fxdwgi

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The intake bolts on a 5.7 Hemi are m6x1.0

A typical automotive cylinder head is made of A356-t6 aluminum alloy, which has a shear strength of about 20,000psi, on the low end of its allowable tolerance.
View attachment 577810

Assuming they are threaded at least 1/2" into the cylinder head, then each bolt puts about 0.37" of area in shear, so the force needed to pull the bolt/threads out the cylinder head will be about 7400lbs per bolt. Multiply x the number of bolts.


A cheap, grade5, 6mm diameter bolt has about .044 square inches of area in section, and the tensile strength of a grade 5 bolt material is about 120,000psi:
View attachment 577811

So, a single 6mm grade 5 bolt with .044 square inches of area in shear can take 5260lbs of force before it yeilds in tension. Multiply x the number of bolts.


A Hemi weights about 700lbs:
View attachment 577813



I don't think the weight of the engine would be a concern with either of the lifting tools above. The engineers who designed those left alot of margin for safety.
Don't forget the actual M6 thread pull strength in the aluminum block, which is a far cry from the shear strength.
Still aint going to be under that engine when it lifts.

3. Estimating Pull-out Force
The pull-out strength (F) is calculated as:


F=ShearStrength×ShearAreacap F equals cap S h e a r cap S t r e n g t h cross cap S h e a r cap A r e a
If we assume a common engagement length of 1.5 times the diameter (9 mm), the estimated pull-out strength for an M6 thread is:
  • Shear Area:
    1767259971244.gif
    ≈115 mm2is approximately equal to 115 mm squared
    (based on
    1767259971275.gif
    12.8 mm212.8 mm squared
    per mm of engagement).
  • Estimated Failure Load:
    1767259971306.gif
    ≈16,100 Nis approximately equal to 16 comma 100 N
    to 18,400 N (roughly 3,600–4,100 lbs).

Summary Table for M6 Thread in A356-T6

Engagement Depth Estimated Pull-out Force (kN)Estimated Pull-out Force (lbs)
1.0 x Dia (6 mm)10.8 – 12.3 kN2,400 – 2,750 lbs
1.5 x Dia (9 mm)16.2 – 18.5 kN3,650 – 4,150 lbs
2.0 x Dia (12 mm)21.6 – 24.6 kN4,850 – 5,500 lbs
Note: For structural applications, a safety factor (typically 2x to 4x) should be applied. If the bolt is made of high-strength steel (e.g., Grade 8.8 or 10.9), the aluminum threads will almost always be the point of failure unless the engagement length is significantly increased (e.g., >2.0D). For further technical data, you can consult the MatWeb A356-T6 Property Sheet.
 

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18CrewDually

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You all that are worried about the bolts pulling out on that lifting plate, Don't ever look at the 4 or 6 little bolts for the engine mount on a fixed wing aircraft that supports the entire engine hanging out in front off the firewall.

I commonly used a lift plate on small blocks that bolts to the carb bolts on the aluminum intake, and that is only 4 bolts.


crack.jpg
 

Ken226

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Don't forget the actual M6 thread pull strength in the aluminum block, which is a far cry from the shear strength.
Still aint going to be under that engine when it lifts.

3. Estimating Pull-out Force
The pull-out strength (F) is calculated as:


F=ShearStrength×ShearAreacap F equals cap S h e a r cap S t r e n g t h cross cap S h e a r cap A r e a
If we assume a common engagement length of 1.5 times the diameter (9 mm), the estimated pull-out strength for an M6 thread is:

Summary Table for M6 Thread in A356-T6

Engagement DepthEstimated Pull-out Force (kN)Estimated Pull-out Force (lbs)
1.0 x Dia (6 mm)10.8 – 12.3 kN2,400 – 2,750 lbs
1.5 x Dia (9 mm)16.2 – 18.5 kN3,650 – 4,150 lbs
2.0 x Dia (12 mm)21.6 – 24.6 kN4,850 – 5,500 lbs
Note: For structural applications, a safety factor (typically 2x to 4x) should be applied. If the bolt is made of high-strength steel (e.g., Grade 8.8 or 10.9), the aluminum threads will almost always be the point of failure unless the engagement length is significantly increased (e.g., >2.0D). For further technical data, you can consult the MatWeb A356-T6 Property Sheet.


From your post:

1767274290574.png

So, yea the pull out strength IS the shear strength x the area in shear.






So, from the chart you posted. If the pullout force is 4850 -5500 lbs per bolt, and there are 10 bolts

1767274791764.png

and the Hemi weighs 700 lbs


The conservative estimate, using your own data, would be 4850lbs per bolt x 10 bolts = 48,500 lbs before the bolts would pull out.



1767278903438.png
Since a Hemi weighs 700lbs on the high end of the estimates, the safety margin here is about 69X






1767274898999.png

Neither would anyone else with any common sense, regardless of how strong the bolts are.
 

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rvance

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I have used this to pull everything from a Austin Healey Sprite engine to a 426 Hemi. It just screws into a manifold bolt hole.
 

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Mojo88

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Hi,

I’m in the process of removing the passenger-side exhaust manifold, but I’m having trouble with the last bolt. It’s one of the lower front bolts, and I don’t have enough clearance to fit a socket and ratchet.

I’ve seen some threads mention lifting the engine slightly to gain access, but I haven’t found any detailed instructions on how to do this. I only need to raise it about 1–2 inches so I can reach the bolt. Does anyone have advice or tips on the safest way to lift the engine for this?

Thanks in advance!

I saw a terrific YouTube video on this. I was hoping I had bookmarked it, but apparently not. The guy had great tips and tricks. I'll take a look on YouTube and see if I can find that vid. Or search on YouTube yourself.
 

Wild one

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Hi,

I’m in the process of removing the passenger-side exhaust manifold, but I’m having trouble with the last bolt. It’s one of the lower front bolts, and I don’t have enough clearance to fit a socket and ratchet.

I’ve seen some threads mention lifting the engine slightly to gain access, but I haven’t found any detailed instructions on how to do this. I only need to raise it about 1–2 inches so I can reach the bolt. Does anyone have advice or tips on the safest way to lift the engine for this?

Thanks in advance!
Unbolt the motor mounts and use a block of wood under the front damper and your floorjack to lift the engine.
 

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