Engine running rough and lacks power: troubleshooting help

[CherokeeCook]

Hello all,

1985 D150 2wd 5.2l 2bbl automatic

About a month ago I came here asking a similar question with a similar problem. The culprit was the coil, as some folks here said.

Less than 24 hours after replacing the coil, something very similar is happening. It's running like garbage, but like a different kind of garbage than when the coil was bad. I already checked the ballast resistor (two post type) and the ignition control module (4 pin type) which both checked good. I also put a new distributor cap and rotor on.
I'll check the new coil, it could just be a bad part. It ran perfectly for ~15 miles (all on the same day the coil was replaced). The next morning after a freeze, it was broke again.
I've linked a video of it running below, you may not be able to tell but it's doing a kachug-kachug kind of thing.
Also, if you give it some gas there's a metal clanking sound that comes up (around 10 seconds). It's a little faint on video but not in person.

 

[1964eastport]

Hello all,

1985 D150 2wd 5.2l 2bbl automatic

About a month ago I came here asking a similar question with a similar problem. The culprit was the coil, as some folks here said.

Less than 24 hours after replacing the coil, something very similar is happening. It's running like garbage, but like a different kind of garbage than when the coil was bad. I already checked the ballast resistor (two post type) and the ignition control module (4 pin type) which both checked good. I also put a new distributor cap and rotor on.
I'll check the new coil, it could just be a bad part. It ran perfectly for ~15 miles (all on the same day the coil was replaced). The next morning after a freeze, it was broke again.
I've linked a video of it running below, you may not be able to tell but it's doing a kachug-kachug kind of thing.
Also, if you give it some gas there's a metal clanking sound that comes up (around 10 seconds). It's a little faint on video but not in person.

Hey there! How are the points? Maybe those are bad and the new cap and rotor just masked it for the initial start up and short run.

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[1964eastport]

Hey there! How are the points? Maybe those are bad and the new cap and rotor just masked it for the initial start up and short run.

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A failing points and condenser system can cause rough running, misfires, lean and rich conditions. If the engine is difficult to start, and runs rough once it does start, then it is time to contact a mechanic to have a look at the system and find out exactly what the problem is. It is better to have it replaced now than when you are in an emergency situation and your vehicle will not start. Found this on web

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[1964eastport]

Not my writing just copied of the web I mean sorry

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[CherokeeCook]

Hey there! How are the points? Maybe those are bad and the new cap and rotor just masked it for the initial start up and short run.

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It doesn't have points if you're referring to is what I think you're referring to, it has this system


I had it taken to a shop for what turned out to be the coil because I couldn't figure out what the problem was and I didn't have the time. They said they took the whole distributor out of the block and that it was fine.
I'm really trying to learn how to work on this thing and take care of it myself.

 

[318willrun]

The rattle sounds like exhaust from what I can hear in the video. So many places to look and hard to hear exactly by the video.

here are the 1st 3 things I'd check.

1. Is the choke staying shut - or not opening enough?
2. They had the distributor out - Check your timing.
3. Check that they got the pick up in the distributor tight and it didn't move. You want .008 gap (check with a brass filler gage)

 

[CherokeeCook]

I'll figure out how to check the timing and check the choke.
I think you're on to something, it was shaking pretty good.

 

[turkeybird56]

Did U change the wires? Check the center cap wire to the coil......Try changing out that wire... Also, do U have the firing order on the wires correct? Should be stamped on the block somewhere or get a Chiltons or google and check and make sure wires in proper order, just thinking out loud... Been a kazillion years since i fracked with a 318...

Also those Chrysler Mopar electronic ignition kits from those years were quirky, just saying....

 

[DustyDog99]

Is it hard starting? It sounds like slow timing to me though the sound your hearing might be ping. My suggestion is to line up the timing marks on the damper and timing cover and see where the rotor points. It needs to point at #1 cylinder which is on the front drivers side. After you have set this, which may require pulling the gear out and clocking it, start it with the vacuum advance canister disconnected and the vacuum line or port on the carb plugged. Advance the distributor by turning it in the direction the vacuum advance canister is pointing. Use a timing light to watch the pointer on the damper until the last lines on each line up. That should put you about 14 degrees advanced. Plug the vacuum line back in and your timing is set. The distributor gear is a pain to get to as it is not attached to it.

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