Evap issue?

[17BigHornAB]

I been chasing a long cranking issue for years, only when hot outside over 25 deg Celsius.

Under mechanical diagnosis I have had the fuel pump replaced, still had issue, had the evap leak detection pump replaced, still had issue so I self replaced my evap purge valve and all was well for most of the summer. Now I have the issue again and it’s causing long cranking after refueling.

When I checked my purge valve it’s discoloured like the old one. So I’m wondering if the canister is leaking charcoal?

Anyone have similar issue and have any insight?

 

[Burla]

Only drive on cold days... ha

Original battery? How many miles on plugs? No codes? I would test fuel pressure at back of engine. Do you always top off? Have you replaced the canister yet?

 

[17BigHornAB]

Only drive on cold days... ha

Original battery? How many miles on plugs? No codes? I would test fuel pressure at back of engine. Do you always top off? Have you replaced the canister yet?

I have replaced battery just last year, and had load tested recently was good. No codes ever when it long cranks, as it eventually cranks. Fuel pressure test has been done twice actually and that why I had the pump replaced.
And the plugs are original, 119000km
And no I have not replaced the canister

 

[Ken226]

I been chasing a long cranking issue for years, only when hot outside over 25 deg Celsius.

Under mechanical diagnosis I have had the fuel pump replaced, still had issue, had the evap leak detection pump replaced, still had issue so I self replaced my evap purge valve and all was well for most of the summer. Now I have the issue again and it’s causing long cranking after refueling.

When I checked my purge valve it’s discoloured like the old one. So I’m wondering if the canister is leaking charcoal?

Anyone have similar issue and have any insight?

If I assume that since a new EVAP purge valve temporarily resolved the issue, there is a causal relationship.

What kinda purge valve did you use, OEM or aftermarket? Could the aftermarket purge valve have failed? Stuck open? Most aftermarket stuff these days are of Chinese origins and are absolute junk, at best.



A guess based on the purge valve having alleviated the symptoms in the past,

Perhaps a bad purge valve, or other vacuum leak, is causing a lean condition when the engine is cold and in open-loop, before the oxygen sensors have warmed up. When the o2 sensors warm up and it goes into closed loop mode, the fuel trims increase to correct the lean condition, so it runs fine and doesn't set codes.

A cold engine that is too lean will long crank.

To prove/disprove, get a scanner and go for a test drive for realtime data. Warm the engine up, then look at the fuel trims. Is the PCM adding an abnormal amount of fuel .


You can also use the scan tool to turn the purge valve on/off while blowing through it, to verify that it's working.

 

[17BigHornAB]

If I assume that since a new EVAP purge valve temporarily resolved the issue, there is a causal relationship.

What kinda purge valve did you use, OEM or aftermarket? Could the aftermarket purge valve have failed? Stuck open? Most aftermarket stuff these days are of Chinese origins and are absolute junk, at best.



A guess based on the purge valve having alleviated the symptoms in the past,

Perhaps a bad purge valve, or other vacuum leak, is causing a lean condition when the engine is cold and in open-loop, before the oxygen sensors have warmed up. When the o2 sensors warm up and it goes into closed loop mode, the fuel trims increase to correct the lean condition, so it runs fine and doesn't set codes.

A cold engine that is too lean will long crank.

To prove/disprove, get a scanner and go for a test drive for realtime data. Warm the engine up, then look at the fuel trims. Is the PCM adding an abnormal amount of fuel .


You can also use the scan tool to turn the purge valve on/off while blowing through it, to verify that it's working.

I did use a aftermarket purge valve and yeah was fine in all temps and conditions for about a month. So I’m thinking maybe getting the OEM valve and see.

I have a second vehicle so I have had the chance to park the truck for a few days. And after a few days when I Goto start it cranks but it runs high RPM for close to a minute which makes me think it’s been flooded with evap gas? Even today after parked overnight it cranked no issue but ran high and chugged for a good minute and balanced out after.
I don’t have a high tech scan tool unfortunately to do a live test so I may need to get into a shop again, even though I’ve had it in multiple times with multiple mechanics and no sure shot solutions

 

[Wild one]

I did use a aftermarket purge valve and yeah was fine in all temps and conditions for about a month. So I’m thinking maybe getting the OEM valve and see.

I have a second vehicle so I have had the chance to park the truck for a few days. And after a few days when I Goto start it cranks but it runs high RPM for close to a minute which makes me think it’s been flooded with evap gas? Even today after parked overnight it cranked no issue but ran high and chugged for a good minute and balanced out after.
I don’t have a high tech scan tool unfortunately to do a live test so I may need to get into a shop again, even though I’ve had it in multiple times with multiple mechanics and no sure shot solutions

What part of Berta are you in?

 

[17BigHornAB]

What part of Berta are you in?

Southern. Coaldale

 

[Wild one]

Southern. Coaldale

Got nothing then for shops for you as you're aways away from me.If you were in the Airdrie area,i have a buddy who owns his own shop,and is pretty decent,as he doesn't try to upsell you on parts you don't need.