Exhaust manifold belt sander question

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CamperMike

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For those that used a belt sander to repair a warped exhaust manifold, did you use a table-mounted or handheld? My driver's side started ticking recently, and I will likely be tackling it myself. I want to make sure the belt sander I get is able to tackle the job.
 

Burla

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Are you sure they are warped? Sometimes the studs will break from rapid temperature swings, but since that is a weak point, it is very possible the mani's arent warped. Unless maybe it has happened a couple times? I never heard of sanding them, but then again I never really asked or thought about it. I know if you can do everything else, the actual machining isnt that expensive at machine shops and they will mill that stuff right the first time trued and measured for surely less then 100 bucks, maybe more like 50. In this day and age maybe 100, but I'd ask around.
 
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CamperMike

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This I sand manifolds all the time dont think i have ever come across one that didnt warp.
I suspect mine warped. My passenger side warped and was replaced under warranty a couple years ago. Now the driver side is bad and since it isn't warranty I want to do it right. It was ticking very lightly since winter but after my UP camping trip towing the trailer 1200 miles it is loud now and you can smell the raw exhaust in the engine bay.
 

Burla

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I suspect mine warped. My passenger side warped and was replaced under warranty a couple years ago. Now the driver side is bad and since it isn't warranty I want to do it right. It was ticking very lightly since winter but after my UP camping trip towing the trailer 1200 miles it is loud now and you can smell the raw exhaust in the engine bay.
It is the one thing worth having a dealer do, too many stories here guys drilling their coolant lines. Dealers use a template to avoid that, many even shops don't and drill those from time to time. If your bolts need to be drilled out, good to have someone that does a lot of these. good luck

Lisle 71500 Exhaust Manifold Template for Dodge


  • Tapered Bolts center base plate over bolt holes and slip fit bushing allows you to move from hole to hole without moving base plate.
  • The screw Extractor is then used to remove the broken bolt.
  • Includes bushing to drill to tap size when Extractor cannot be used.
  • Double Sided drill depth gauge to make sure water jacket is not pierced.

,
 
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CamperMike

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I won't be drilling without a template. I will be trying other methods first to get the bolts out. Iknow about the template and if i have to resort to drilling i will buy the template. I don't plan to go to the dealer.
 

caulk04

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Drilling bolts out? Eww. I did that once in my old Jeep Grand, never again. I was prepared to buy a cheap HF welder when one of my manifolds needed done but I got lucky and they were broken outside the head.

As for sanding, you're going to need some power/force so go pretty beefy. I took mine to work and milled it, surprised how much material I had to take off (nearly 1/16")
 

zrock

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Are you sure they are warped? Sometimes the studs will break from rapid temperature swings, but since that is a weak point, it is very possible the mani's arent warped. Unless maybe it has happened a couple times? I never heard of sanding them, but then again I never really asked or thought about it. I know if you can do everything else, the actual machining isnt that expensive at machine shops and they will mill that stuff right the first time trued and measured for surely less then 100 bucks, maybe more like 50. In this day and age maybe 100, but I'd ask around.
you have some cheap machine shops.. It was cheaper for me to buy a new manifold than have a machine shop machine it down by at least 1/2
 

Dragula

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I used that method. Bought a used HF bench grinder and new belts. Made sure the manifolds were warped. They were. I just made sure to keep the manifolds level and grinded away. Worked great! No more ticking. Sold the truck a year ago, so not sure how long that fix lasted. I assume it won’t tick anymore since they were already warped.
 

Marshall

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I have not done one of these, but I have done a couple larger ones on a tractor and a heavy truck , welded one, I used a good angle grinder to get close then finished with my 6x48 belt sander
I used a good 4 ft. Level for a straight edge
If you are going to buy a sander for this one job, I would not bother.

If you do it with hand tools, grinder sander,you need a work table to clamp it so it’s solid .
Wife’s granite counter top would make a good sanding top with 80 grit , 120 grit glued to it so you end up
With a flat surface
Good luck with that one,LOL.
 
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olscout

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Get it close and use these, never mess with exhaust gaskets again. I've used them on my IH Scout II and recommended them to other Scout guys, now some of the IH specific shops are using them. Don't bend them or you're buying another set, and don't over torque, in this case more ugga duggas is not better.
 
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CamperMike

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I think this ought to work. Old craftsman 6 inch belt sander from the 70s. Found it on fb marketplace $50 and it works great. I love a good excuse to get more tools. What grit belt should I get for sanding the manifold?
 

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Marshall

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That kind of looks like the one I had only newer, Mine was a cast iron base, stand, BTW a 6 in jointer I have still is a old Beaver with cast base and a huge old motor.
Re the sander , I would buy about 60, 80 120 and a fine I did have a 600, but that was just used for gun work, these are set up usually for wood and run too fast for iron, will work, but heats the belts, but don't use much pressure and will work, and let it cool when hot
Check it for flat, and rig up a in and out feed table to keep the manifold flat.
Paint the high spots , ends as a rule with die or black marker so you can see what to take off.
 
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Marshall

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PS , if using that, keep moving back and forth , easier on the belts
 
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CamperMike

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Get it close and use these, never mess with exhaust gaskets again. I've used them on my IH Scout II and recommended them to other Scout guys, now some of the IH specific shops are using them. Don't bend them or you're buying another set, and don't over torque, in this case more ugga duggas is not better.
I already have that on order. Was planning to use it based on previous threads I saw.
 
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CamperMike

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Job is done. One of the rear bolts broke flush with the head. Although it took a few attempts I was able to weld a nut to the bolt and get it out. The sander worked pretty well and while not perfect I got it pretty smooth. The worst part of the job was all the stuff in the way on the drivers side. I tried to get the manifold out from the top like you tube videos said but just couldn't get it to go. However, I was able to get it out the bottom between the collector pipe and frame. Hopefully won't have to do this side again. I have the other Remflex gasket in case I need to do it on the passenger side but that one was replaced a couple years ago under warranty so I probably have some time before it warps.
 
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