Factory Sound Processors and Crossovers

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ErnieBoling

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So, we all know that the factory HU is set up with a sound processor and a crossover network, but I haven't seen any posts on the details. Could be I missed it, could be no cares lol. But I am a nerd with lots of free time, so I did a complete frequency sweep from 1 hz to 20,000 hz on our system. All results are relative and subjective. Everyone has a different range of hearing, and all observations were made sitting in the drivers seat. All windows up, with the truck at idle, and all three equalizer settings on the HU at flat. At the end of the frequency sweep list for the speakers, I have a frequency sweep listing for the equalizer as well.
Full disclosure on my set up:
I have the factory HU with all factory sound processors and crossovers in place.
Corner speakers are Kicker 2way 43CSC354 with listed freq res 80-20,000hz.
Center speaker factory.
Front door speakers factory.
Rear door speakers Kicker 2 way 44KSC6904 with listed freq res 30-21,000hz.
Headliner speakers are Kicker 1" tweeters CST20 with listed freq res 4,500-21,000hz.
Factory sub removed and 2-10" Kicker C10 subs with listed freq res 33hz in a poly filled and sealed box under the rear seats, pushed by a Kicker 600w amp with listed freq res 20-200hz, fixed sub-sonic filter of 25hz, variable crossover turned all the way down to 50hz, fed by high level inputs from the rear door speaker wires.
Now that we have all of that crap out of the way, let's get to the good stuff.

1-19hz - Zero response
20hz - Front door speakers start to vibrate slightly, but you can't heat it, just feel it with your hand over the grill.
25hz - Front door speakers start to hum audibly, subs start to vibrate with no sound
30hz - Noticeable sound from front doors, weak hum from subs.
35hz - Strong response from front doors, noticeable difference in the subs
40-70hz - Strongest response from front doors and subs
75hz - Subs start to fall off. I am disappointed in my Kicker amp. The crossover is set at 50hz, but I'm still getting the higher range mid-bass passing through :flame:
80hz - Front doors start to fall off.
85Hz - Front doors are weak, subs are weak.
90hz - Front doors just about gone, subs just about gone.
95hz - Subs are completely gone. 50hz my ass. WTF Kicker...
100hz - Front doors a hair from being gone completely, center dash starts to come in.
110-120hz - Super strong center, corners start to come in.
130-170hz - The dash is the king, with the rear door cones just starting to come in.
180hz - Dash and rear door cones pretty equal.
200-300hz - Dash and rear door cones are fading out
400hz - Dash and rear door cones almost gone
500hz - Rear door tweets come in lightly
600-700hz - Dash comes back in, rear door tweets are stronger
700-2,900hz - Dash and rear door tweets stay strong
3,000hz - Headliner tweets are kicking in
3,000-15,000hz - Tweets are rocking in the headliner, but no where else.
16,000hz - Silence.

Observation:
Although there are tweeters in the doors and dash as part of the 2 way speakers, the factory sound processor cuts these signals off, rendering them useless above 3,000hz.

So, there you have it. That is the min/max frequency reproduction of the speakers, the factory crossover ranges, and the sound processor logic of the factory HU.

Now, as an added bonus, here is the boosting characteristics of the factory HU EQ. All testing started at flat, then went to max neg, then max positive for each frequency individually. These are the min/max frequencies that each slider has an audible effect on, with overlaps as well.
Told you I had too much time on my hands...

Bass: 35-400hz
Overlap of Bass and Mid: 190hz-400hz
Mid: 130-3,000hz
Overlap of Mid and High: 2,000-3,000hz
High: 2,000-14,000

Observations:
Although the HU and speakers are producing sound all the way down to 25hz, the EQ has zero effect below 35hz.
Although the HU and speakers are producing sound all the way up to 15,000hz, the EQ has zero effect above 14,000hz.

Bless you to anyone that actually made it all the way to the end of this post. If you have any ideas on how to improve my sound system set-up, I'm all ears. Also, is there a way to filter out the high mid-bass my amp is allowing through? Maybe some type of crossover on the signal wires going to the amp? This is the first car audio work I have done in 20 years, and I know things have advanced since then.
 

Graygoose

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Yours is a 2014, but on my 2018, before adding the Kicker KEY amp, I'm adding an PAC Amp Pro to possibly resolve any issues with aftermarket amplifier added to stock HU
 
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ErnieBoling

ErnieBoling

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Yours is a 2014, but on my 2018, before adding the Kicker KEY amp, I'm adding an PAC Amp Pro to possibly resolve any issues with aftermarket amplifier added to stock HU

Forgive my ignorance, but what exactly does this do?
 
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ErnieBoling

ErnieBoling

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ErnieBoling

ErnieBoling

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https://pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-ch41


says for upgraded audio, but can use on base audio as well.

What I plan to use to clean the signals.

The only real heartburn I have is two-fold:
When the volume goes up, the factory processor kills the power. I assume this is to keep people from blowing speakers.
This leads to the second issue: I have to use hella bass knob at higher volumes to keep the subs equal to the the rest of the system, but when I turn the volume down, the subs are way out front and I have to bring the bass knob back down a ton. Real pain in the ass.
Would this thingamajig combined with the other doohickey correct that? Or would I need an additional whatchamacallit?
 

Graygoose

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Try emailing them or calling them. Explain your install and issues/complaints. They can explain the benefits for your install.
 

Graygoose

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Sounds like you have a good setup as is, now you said center speaker, you have the Alpine?
 
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ErnieBoling

ErnieBoling

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Sounds like you have a good setup as is, now you said center speaker, you have the Alpine?

I do have the "Premium" Alpine system. I changed the center speaker out for the 2 way Kicker 3.5" I put in the corners, but to be honest, the factory center sounded better. The additional tweet in the Kicker was too much. Far too bright. I may eventually change the center speaker to a higher quality full range, but it works really well right now. Ironically, I changed the speakers that I changed trying to drop mid and increase highs, no I feel like I am a tad high on high, and a little short on mid. I really wish I would have put three ways in the rear doors now vs the two ways.
 

Graygoose

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Then I bet the PAC is exactly what you need. When you alter "premium" audio systems is where you run into these issues.
 
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ErnieBoling

ErnieBoling

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Then I bet the PAC is exactly what you need. When you alter "premium" audio systems is where you run into these issues.

It figures. Nothing else on these highly advanced vehicles is simple, why should the audio be lol. I love the new tech, features, convenience etc... of our vehicles, but some days I yearn for the "Good Old Days" when all you needed was roll of electrical tape and some crimpers to make a bad ass system.
 

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Exactly, like the old Bose in Chevys, hard to add anything!
 
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ErnieBoling

ErnieBoling

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Exactly, like the old Bose in Chevys, hard to add anything!

Indeed. The guys over at Kicker suggested using the sub wires under the seat to feed my amp vs the rear door taps. I will give that a try. The guys over at Crutchfield strongly recommended using the door taps, but adding the LC2i line converter. I will try the Kicker way first, and if doesn't help, I'll go the Crutchfield way. That little doohickey is only a hundred bucks, so I'll order two of them if I have to.
 

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Any idea what the slope is on the crossover on the subwoofer? If its shallow like 6db or even 12 db you need to bump it out a bit, with all the testing Im sure you know this already. Run em up 20 more hz to see if they blend better.
 

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Indeed. The guys over at Kicker suggested using the sub wires under the seat to feed my amp vs the rear door taps. I will give that a try. The guys over at Crutchfield strongly recommended using the door taps, but adding the LC2i line converter. I will try the Kicker way first, and if doesn't help, I'll go the Crutchfield way. That little doohickey is only a hundred bucks, so I'll order two of them if I have to.
Doing my system this week, and I have my PAC, if I don't need it, sell it cheap.
 

Lkw88

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Then I bet the PAC is exactly what you need. When you alter "premium" audio systems is where you run into these issues.

Does the pac AmpPRO give you the ability to take away the bass that goes to the front door speakers?
 
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ErnieBoling

ErnieBoling

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I'd try raising your sub xover to 80 since you're missing a lot near there.

I did switch to the sub wires under the seat, and I did run the X-over up a bit. Deff a cleaner sound and hits a lot better. Thanks for the tip.
 
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ErnieBoling

ErnieBoling

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Any idea what the slope is on the crossover on the subwoofer? If its shallow like 6db or even 12 db you need to bump it out a bit, with all the testing Im sure you know this already. Run em up 20 more hz to see if they blend better.

I have no idea what you are saying or asking here. I am a simple cave man, and your words confuse and frighten me. lol, seriously though, I am unsure of what you are saying here. Can you break it down to layman's terms?
 

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When they put my StealthBox and JL Audio amp in my truck, they used the signal from the old sub then did something else to where the only amp that feeds the sub is the JL. The factory amp feeds everything else. Sounds great.
 
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