First oil change

[Tulecreeper]

Funny to see the different methods of getting a stuck filter off. The only time I've had one stuck I used a hammer to send a long screw driver threw it. I got GREAT leverage using that lol.

Done that.

 

[quickster2]

^^^ That ^^^

Go by your manual and stop playing around with different oils. Book says "5W-40, Full Synthetic", use that.

Does your newer 6.4L owners manual say 5W40 vs 0W40? Just curious as my 2015 recommends 0W40. TIA

 

[Tulecreeper]

Does your newer 6.4L owners manual say 5W40 vs 0W40? Just curious as my 2015 recommends 0W40. TIA

0W-40 - there isn't even mention of any other weight no matter the time of year.

 

[turkeybird56]

Funny to see the different methods of getting a stuck filter off. The only time I've had one stuck I used a hammer to send a long screw driver threw it. I got GREAT leverage using that lol.

Been there, done that, but on a Chevy 396 where U had more access. Not jammed up in the narrow space above the steering rack between the fender well and the motor. Wat a sorry place for a filter. Wife had a 2010 F 150 with the 5.4 Triton. If U used ramps at home and had no way of turning the wheels to the left, it was a Son of a Gun to get that filter out without taking a multi shampoo hair wash.

This is what I have to get filter off if it is stubborn and put on there by a gorilla>

Heck of a lot easier to use a 3/8" driver and some extensions. U just have to take precautions ref oil: Oil Udder work, the ole poke a hole and drain work, or maybe the ole gallon zip lock bag: Anything that keeps the oil from going every where and draining on the EPS rack.

 

[Burla]

The op has the 6 cylinder, so no overwhelming reason to run a high performance oil like we do with the hemis.

^^^ That ^^^

Go by your manual and stop playing around with different oils. Book says "5W-40, Full Synthetic", use that.

What's the difference between 0w30, 5w30 and 0w40? The main difference is in most cases 0w40 will be the thinnest at the end of an interval. The bigger the swing winter rating to weight, the more vii's are gonna be in the formula. Those are temporary molecules that shear away. If you look at uoa's oils such as pup 0w40 a great example of a 40 weight oil go from 13.9 visc to in the 10's, so at the end of a run 0w40 is almost as thin as a 20 weight oil. Whereas everything else you can use not 0w40 is gonna have a more stable viscosity, as in they will be closer to starting visc then 0w40. Even if a 5w30 starts at 12 if you look at used oil analysis's you will see it will be thicker then 0w40 after the oil was in use, but still be thinner at start up then 0w40 even when new.

There is a reason why manu's went to 0w40, it was to skirt additive rules that 20 and 30 weight oils have to make it on the shelf with api. Since 40 weights are considered hd oils they can use different additive packages and make it on the shelf. But there is a cost for using this strategy, and the cost is an unstable viscosity. Even 5w40 is gonna be more stable then 0w40. Guys with hemi's outta research it because the manu's recommendations have done nothing to help stop the cam issues. However, some of the strategies have helped with hemi tick and cam fails, even in groups that have hemi tick which you would think would have a lot of cam fails have zero or near zero cam failed.

If you are under warranty use the book isnt a bad idea, but there are more proven ways to protect the engine for the long term then the book.

 

[quickster2]

As I've stated I have 2 more changes of PUP 0W40 and LubeGard in my stash. As a result of my last UOA with heavy towing & truck camper usage, my vis was really low (sheared) after just 5K miles. I'll be looking at a new oil when I reach 85K miles.

 

[NCRaineman]

I'm with others in the camp of "let the dealer do the first one". That way if there are any problems they can (hopefully) be spotted right off the bat and handled.

Mopar also offers a four oil change package special. You pay for them up front then have three years to use. I've got this on both my Ram and my Charger. The price may vary a bit based on your location, but for me it was less than I could do the job for myself.

 

[Burla]

For the record 0w40 PUP is still a great choice for a couple reasons, first and foremost the moly level is great. Also the base oil is a very clean base oil that can absorb a lot of contamination. And because it is a 40 weight it will give more protection on that metal then any 20 weight that the 5.7 specs at. So I would rather use 0w40 then 5w20 in all cases, even in the 5.7, and pup was one of the original high moly 0w40's, so there are worse oils you can use your truck then this very good oil. The main issue is the swing zero to 40 which is the largest swing in multi grade oils on any shelf and a lot of oils use more boron these days and I have seen that in pup 0w40, so despite just a couple dings on that oil it is still a top choice. I would suggest a low interval on it though something like 5k would be good.

 

[Tulecreeper]

I'm with others in the camp of "let the dealer do the first one". That way if there are any problems they can (hopefully) be spotted right off the bat and handled.

Mopar also offers a four oil change package special. You pay for them up front then have three years to use. I've got this on both my Ram and my Charger. The price may vary a bit based on your location, but for me it was less than I could do the job for myself.

Even as my daily driver, I average so few miles on my truck each month I would never use 4 oil changes in 3 years.

 

[Curmudgeon]

Even as my daily driver, I average so few miles on my truck each month I would never use 4 oil changes in 3 years.

Yeah, now that I'm retired I'm driving 6k-7k miles per year.
I plan on doing 6 month intervals, if for no other reason than
to get a warm weather / cold weather oil.

I'm done with the dealer. I found a good shop, close by, that
will work with me and has a great local reputation.

My UOA almost makes me ill. No idea what dealers are using (and they can not tell me, or won't) but there is much room for improvement, including the filter.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Yeah, now that I'm retired I'm driving 6k-7k miles per year.
I plan on doing 6 month intervals, if for no other reason than
to get a warm weather / cold weather oil.

I'm done with the dealer. I found a good shop, close by, that
will work with me and has a great local reputation.

My UOA almost makes me ill. No idea what dealers are using (and they can not tell me, or won't) but there is much room for improvement, including the filter.

I picked up my truck on Mar 23 this year. Last week I just went over 3000 miles, so I'm putting right at 350 miles on it per month - half of that making 75-mile round trip drives to the "city" on beer runs because they don't sell alcohol on my end of the county. So at 350 miles per month I'll put 4000+ miles on it by the end of March, at which time I'll get my first oil change. You know, just because it's been a year, not because it really needs it. And I'll have my local mechanic do it because I'm done working on my own vehicles.

 

[Curmudgeon]

I picked up my truck on Mar 23 this year. Last week I just went over 3000 miles, so I'm putting right at 350 miles on it per month - half of that making 75-mile round trip drives to the "city" on beer runs because they don't sell alcohol on my end of the county. So at 350 miles per month I'll put 4000+ miles on it by the end of March, at which time I'll get my first oil change. You know, just because it's been a year, not because it really needs it. And I'll have my local mechanic do it because I'm done working on my own vehicles.

I would need to upgrade my ramps and floor jack (Honda Civic rated!) before getting back to it but the filter location has me a little miffed.
My local garage will work with whatever I bring them, oil and filter of my choosing, and charge $10-$15.

Now, what is a "good" air filter? The silica in my last UOA seemed a bit high. My current filter is probably less than ideal.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

For the record 0w40 PUP is still a great choice for a couple reasons, first and foremost the moly level is great. Also the base oil is a very clean base oil that can absorb a lot of contamination. And because it is a 40 weight it will give more protection on that metal then any 20 weight that the 5.7 specs at. So I would rather use 0w40 then 5w20 in all cases, even in the 5.7, and pup was one of the original high moly 0w40's, so there are worse oils you can use your truck then this very good oil. The main issue is the swing zero to 40 which is the largest swing in multi grade oils on any shelf and a lot of oils use more boron these days and I have seen that in pup 0w40, so despite just a couple dings on that oil it is still a top choice. I would suggest a low interval on it though something like 5k would be good.

"And because it is a 40 weight it will give more protection on that metal then any 20 weight that the 5.7 specs at. So I would rather use 0w40 then 5w20 in all cases, even in the 5.7, "

Is this a change in philosophy? You've been hot on the 5w20 previously.

 

[quickster2]

I would need to upgrade my ramps and floor jack (Honda Civic rated!) before getting back to it but the filter location has me a little miffed.
My local garage will work with whatever I bring them, oil and filter of my choosing, and charge $10-$15.

Now, what is a "good" air filter? The silica in my last UOA seemed a bit high. My current filter is probably less than ideal.

I use nothing but WIX air filters in all my vehicles for many years.