First Travel Trailer trip

[demetriew]

Any advise for a first timer? I'm pulling a 4300 lb TT with my 19 RAM Laramie 3.21 gears for the first time. Also just got a brake controller installed.

 

[ErnieD]

Where you pulling? Is the 4300 pound trailer dry weight or max weight?

 

[demetriew]

Where you pulling? Is the 4300 pound trailer dry weight or max weight?

Dallas to Louisiana
Dry weight

 

[ErnieD]

Dallas to Louisiana
Dry weight

This is very interesting, I just posted a new thread hoping to latch people exactly like yourself. I have the big horn version of the same truck. 8200-8400 Max towing cap depend of options and what time of day it is. Lol. I’m only giving you this advice from a technical view, and not a long time RV’er.

Be meticulous with your preventative maintenance. Use high grade fully synthetic oil. Check your air filters routinely. Tires are mega important. I’d get in the habit of pre and post trip full rig inspections, with emphasis on high wear items, like tires and lights, fluid leaks... etc.

Slow is fast. This stands for MPG and overall safety of cargo and passengers. 45-65 max speeds is where you’ll want to live.

I’m going to assume you already have some type of sway control and weight distribution device. If not, research and purchase. E2 fastway makes a great one stop shop set up.

Research weather patterns, as you are now pulling a parachute, if you suspect high winds and storm, seek a nice parking spot, climb into the trailer for a cheeseburger and some Hogan’s heroes reruns and wait it out.

I am in Colorado, but drive into Wyoming to salt lake and the winds are so bad at times, even class 8 trailers can blow over on the highway.

Have fun, but above all be safe. Know your truck/trailers capabilities and stay within the lines.

Hope this helps

 

[demetriew]

This is very interesting, I just posted a new thread hoping to latch people exactly like yourself. I have the big horn version of the same truck. 8200-8400 Max towing cap depend of options and what time of day it is. Lol. I’m only giving you this advice from a technical view, and not a long time RV’er.

Be meticulous with your preventative maintenance. Use high grade fully synthetic oil. Check your air filters routinely. Tires are mega important. I’d get in the habit of pre and post trip full rig inspections, with emphasis on high wear items, like tires and lights, fluid leaks... etc.

Slow is fast. This stands for MPG and overall safety of cargo and passengers. 45-65 max speeds is where you’ll want to live.

I’m going to assume you already have some type of sway control and weight distribution device. If not, research and purchase. E2 fastway makes a great one stop shop set up.

Research weather patterns, as you are now pulling a parachute, if you suspect high winds and storm, seek a nice parking spot, climb into the trailer for a cheeseburger and some Hogan’s heroes reruns and wait it out.

I am in Colorado, but drive into Wyoming to salt lake and the winds are so bad at times, even class 8 trailers can blow over on the highway.

Have fun, but above all be safe. Know your truck/trailers capabilities and stay within the lines.

Hope this helps

Thanks, it helps a lot. Looks like I have everything but the sway hitch thingy. Hmm

 

[MADDOG]

You absolutely need sway control to haul that trailer safely.

Visit your local RV dealer, pick out the kit that fits best with your configuration and have the RV shop show you how it is installed, adjusted and any things you should do while on the road to make sure it is working right.

 

[gofishn]

have a firend who tows/knows set up your electronic brakes, for you.
also, prepare to add new springs or air bags.
might want brake upgrade if you feel any brake shuddering. If so, park it and let them cool down.

if me, would do tuftruck 1211 springs, new stiffer shocks, new tires, SYnthetic oils, upgrade brakes..... oh wait, according to my Signature, I've already done all that.

Seriously, best advise, stay within your abilities and do not feel bad about stopping and getting help or waiting it out.
SLOW slow s l o w

folks behind you can always pass, sooner or later.
It's the same ones who figure you when they drive by who will sue your pants off when you rearend them.
I prefer the FInger and I keep my money.

 

[ErnieD]

Thanks, it helps a lot. Looks like I have everything but the sway hitch thingy. Hmm

Here’s the perfect hitch for you and your specific application, no need for a larger set. If you upgrade your truck later on you could always just upgrade the trunion/bar set. This would max your truck out to its safest towing point.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Fastway/FA92-00-0800.html

Save your money on the airbags. While they are awesome, you will not have the same soft 1/2 ton ride when You aren’t towing, which for many of us is 80-90 percent of the time. But this very easy DIY suspension enhancement kit.

https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/Ram/1500+Classic/2019/TDRTT1500.html?VehicleID=201910782

 

[gofishn]

God, NO!

I cannot recommend bump stops listed above.

Think about. the very picture shows , when loaded, the bump stop is ridiing on the axle, hence the frame is riding on the axle, hence every single thing felt by the axle is going to be transferred to the truck body and YOU.

No thank you, I prefer actual Springs, designed for teh added weight of cargo and trailers, with stronger shocks to help negate any jarring from the road, which may occur.

Jus watch an axl, on a truck in front of you, as you go down the road.
See all that movement, that is teh very pupose of springs and shocks, reduce the movement and prevent it form coming into the passnger cab. lets remove all of that by adding bump stops that ride on the axle.

Yes, bump stops will reduce squat, no its not the best way to do so.
Bump stops are more :
we dont want an overloaded truck frame riding on axle itself, messing things up, when idiot overloads his truck. So, we will add this hunk of hard rubber. The horrible ride will let the Idiot , inside, know he messed up and not to do it again.

Think about teh very name
BUMP STOP.

When the axle hits a bump hard enough to toss it up int the air, towrds the frame, this hnk of rubber stops it from hitting said frame.
When truck is overlaoded and squats down to the axle, this hard rubber stops the truck frame from actually riding metal on metal, against the axle.

The axle is not designed to handle the weight, matter of fact, the axle is proabably the weakest link in the payload ability of a 1500 series truck, pins inside of it.
So, lets take this weight, which si too much for truck and causes bump stops to ride on acle, increase the height of our bump stops so we practically guarantee the frame will ride on the axle and call it good because we reduce squat.

While I am on this late night rant, let;s discuss air bags. they essenitally the same thing. Prevent sag by reducing travel. but with the springs, so, much better than bump stops. still allow springs and shocks to function. I would prefer stiffer springs, then air bags, if needed.
Steel tends to fail less than inflated rubber but each his own.

 

[ErnieD]

God, NO!

I cannot recommend bump stops listed above.

Think about. the very picture shows , when loaded, the bump stop is ridiing on the axle, hence the frame is riding on the axle, hence every single thing felt by the axle is going to be transferred to the truck body and YOU.

No thank you, I prefer actual Springs, designed for teh added weight of cargo and trailers, with stronger shocks to help negate any jarring from the road, which may occur.

Jus watch an axl, on a truck in front of you, as you go down the road.
See all that movement, that is teh very pupose of springs and shocks, reduce the movement and prevent it form coming into the passnger cab. lets remove all of that by adding bump stops that ride on the axle.

Yes, bump stops will reduce squat, no its not the best way to do so.
Bump stops are more :
we dont want an overloaded truck frame riding on axle itself, messing things up, when idiot overloads his truck. So, we will add this hunk of hard rubber. The horrible ride will let the Idiot , inside, know he messed up and not to do it again.

Think about teh very name
BUMP STOP.

When the axle hits a bump hard enough to toss it up int the air, towrds the frame, this hnk of rubber stops it from hitting said frame.
When truck is overlaoded and squats down to the axle, this hard rubber stops the truck frame from actually riding metal on metal, against the axle.

The axle is not designed to handle the weight, matter of fact, the axle is proabably the weakest link in the payload ability of a 1500 series truck, pins inside of it.
So, lets take this weight, which si too much for truck and causes bump stops to ride on acle, increase the height of our bump stops so we practically guarantee the frame will ride on the axle and call it good because we reduce squat.

While I am on this late night rant, let;s discuss air bags. they essenitally the same thing. Prevent sag by reducing travel. but with the springs, so, much better than bump stops. still allow springs and shocks to function. I would prefer stiffer springs, then air bags, if needed.
Steel tends to fail less than inflated rubber but each his own.

Your argument is irrelevant. At the end of the day, EVERYTHING in the suspension system rests on the axle housing man. All of it. I’m not trying to increase his load or tell him to haul ass in any manner, but for what he’s after, and what he’s hauling, he isn’t altering the OEM ride when not towing. And when he is towing, he is only SUPPORTING the springs at their loaded stage. That and a WD kit, and some good old fashioned common sense driving - and he will have awesome family times and be safe doing it.

 

[Jerrybob]

The Timbren bump shocks are good but I would recommend the Summo Springs.....they are made from a different material and are not as hard riding.....my two cents.

 

[gofishn]

Your argument is irrelevant. At the end of the day, EVERYTHING in the suspension system rests on the axle housing man. All of it. I’m not trying to increase his load or tell him to haul ass in any manner, but for what he’s after, and what he’s hauling, he isn’t altering the OEM ride when not towing. And when he is towing, he is only SUPPORTING the springs at their loaded stage. That and a WD kit, and some good old fashioned common sense driving - and he will have awesome family times and be safe doing it.

Yes, everything rest on the axle.
However, if the bump stops are resting on the axle, then all the weight of the frame is transfer to the axle , in a manner for which it is not designed.
Bump stops are designed to stop bumps from allowing the axle to travel to far upwards, violently striking the frame and causing damage to either one.
Bump stops not for stopping the frame from traveling to far down and hitting the axle. If there is too much load ,in the bed or on the frame, then the bump stop will prevent the frame from running fdirectly on the axle, metal to metal. However, as explained prior, if this occurs, then the suspension is effectively removed from the truck and no longer functioning , as designed.
May as weld metal directly from acxe to frame and enjoy the ride.

I am sorry if you cannot understand either the concept or the explanation but doubt there is anything further I can do to enlighten your Understanding.
I've been told, not everyone can split an Atom, poerform a HEart Transplant or understand why bump stops are a horrible Idea, when applied for overloaded weight handling.

 

[ErnieD]

Yes, everything rest on the axle.
However, if the bump stops are resting on the axle, then all the weight of the frame is transfer to the axle , in a manner for which it is not designed.
Bump stops are designed to stop bumps from allowing the axle to travel to far upwards, violently striking the frame and causing damage to either one.
Bump stops not for stopping the frame from traveling to far down and hitting the axle. If there is too much load ,in the bed or on the frame, then the bump stop will prevent the frame from running fdirectly on the axle, metal to metal. However, as explained prior, if this occurs, then the suspension is effectively removed from the truck and no longer functioning , as designed.
May as weld metal directly from acxe to frame and enjoy the ride.

I am sorry if you cannot understand either the concept or the explanation but doubt there is anything further I can do to enlighten your Understanding.
I've been told, not everyone can split an Atom, poerform a HEart Transplant or understand why bump stops are a horrible Idea, when applied for overloaded weight handling.

First off, you’re wrong, they are not bump stops. It’s a hollow rubber spring. Bump stops are what is on there before you add the Timbren Suspension Enhancement. I’ve been around airbags in class 8 vehicles my whole life, and if you think air bags keep trucks from braking suspension components, well let me sell you 1,000 sets of airbags. What breaks axles at worst and creates harsh rides are poor use of a vehicle and not understanding a vehicle’s capacity.

I don’t care to know what you’ve done with your truck. What I’m speaking to is this mans vehicle, and his trailer by model number and weight. For what he is going to do with it, the two components I have an opinion about are both highly rated and completely useful. If you have the money for airbag suspension then add it.

What doesn’t make sense is modified suspension springs, hardened at that, that fool a driver that the vehicle has more capabilities than is actually there. You don’t like the Timbren? Don’t use them. Simple as that.

 

[13ram1500crew]

First off, you’re wrong, they are not bump stops. It’s a hollow rubber spring. Bump stops are what is on there before you add the Timbren Suspension Enhancement. I’ve been around airbags in class 8 vehicles my whole life, and if you think air bags keep trucks from braking suspension components, well let me sell you 1,000 sets of airbags. What breaks axles at worst and creates harsh rides are poor use of a vehicle and not understanding a vehicle’s capacity.

I don’t care to know what you’ve done with your truck. What I’m speaking to is this mans vehicle, and his trailer by model number and weight. For what he is going to do with it, the two components I have an opinion about are both highly rated and completely useful. If you have the money for airbag suspension then add it.

What doesn’t make sense is modified suspension springs, hardened at that, that fool a driver that the vehicle has more capabilities than is actually there. You don’t like the Timbren? Don’t use them. Simple as that.

Agreed, i use timbren's, they work. No hassle, no adjustments. Perfect for the smaller trailer this person is towing. Any significant weight in the bed of the truck or on the hitch will bottom out the factory bump stops, timbrens help support the weight and make for a safer tow by keeping the lights level and they do reduce some sway, but then again, some people will always argue this and make their own opinons, most of the time without even having the experience of using them.

 

[runamuck]

our trailer is heavier and a little bigger. I dont use any of that stuff and do fine. with around 600# hitch wt. and plenty of gear in the bed the truck only sets about an inch and a half lower than empty and has never bottomed on even some pretty big dips. the brakes on these trucks are great and with any kind of controller for the trailer brakes you should be fine. follow their instructions on how to set them. tires are usually the weak link on these trailers so check your air pressure and dont let them run under-inflated. use a WDH for the best results. pack as light as you can. make sure everything, I mean everything in the trailer is secured somehow so it doesnt spill or move around during the trip. do a walk around every time you stop. dont get in a hurry. dont tailgate. you can scroll thru the instrument cluster displays till you get to one that shows all the truck's vitals. I set that one when I'm towing so I can see the temps of all the truck's systems. we attached cheap level indicators on the corners of our trailer to help with leveling and we lay down some of those orange plastic sguares for the tires to set on. they make chocks that lock on the end one to back up to and a couple sets of those come in handy to help level up. dont stress out about what the vehicles around you are doing. make sure your own rig is safe and under control. steady eddy gets you there.

 

[2019RamInSC]

If you have the original tires on your trailer, you will notice they were probably made in china. In the RV community they are called "China bombs?

Keep an eye on them. I would highly recommend a Tire Pressure Monitoring System for your trailer.

And upgrade to Good Year Endurance or other name brand tires when reasonable $.

Good luck and enjoy

 

[runamuck]

If you have the original tires on your trailer, you will notice they were probably made in china. In the RV community they are called "China bombs?

Keep an eye on them. I would highly recommend a Tire Pressure Monitoring System for your trailer.

And upgrade to Good Year Endurance or other name brand tires when reasonable $.

Good luck and enjoy

good advice. check them often and replace with better ones as soon as you can. our trailer mfr. even suggests checking the torque on the wheel lug nuts before every trip..

 

[ErnieD]

Agreed on tires. I’m a fleet guy, tires, coolant issues and battery issues are what we see consistently go wrong with our tractor trailers, in that order. If my pop up hadn’t come with nice off road tires I would have ripped them off immediately. The Jayco I want comes equipped with new Goodyear’s

 

[serp16]

TRAILER tires and bearings.

How old are the tires? If over 5 years consider replacing. And are the bearings recently packed?

That would be my first order of business.

 

[Amazonica]

So much great advice here and I have to agree. Drive S L O W when towing. People will ride your rear, honk, throw you the finger, and cut right infront of you but at the end of the day, they're not the ones who will pay financially if you wreck your setup.

I am a newbie too, live fulltime on the 'Roam' 4 months now. I'm still learning. What are your trailer tires rated for - weight and speed? Don't overload your rig/trailer and don't drive faster than your tires are rated for. Keep them properly inflated and check them OFTEN (minimum every week). Over 5 years, regardless of wear, replace. Especially if the trailer sits for any time.

I try to avoid wind over 15 mph or thunderstorms but sometimes you get caught. Slow down, let 'em all pass and stop if you feel uncomfortable. Big city construction zones make me want to puke with anxiety sometimes. The lanes are SUPER narrow, bumpy, shift often, and lots of Semis. I check the state DOT site that I'm driving through to find routes without construction.

Oh, and get your setup fully weighed. I guarantee you will end up heavier than you think.

Safe travels!