Found The Leak, Gonna Fix It, But What Else?

[LoneWolf3574]

I've been trying to find a slow coolant leak on my truck for about 6 months now. Well, I finally found it when I went under it to chase out the grounding strap from the heads and noticed a green (I added fluorescent dye to the coolant) wet spot along the length of the oil pan and block gasket seam. I traced it back to the front of the engine and found it running down the mating surfaces of the block and timing cover, top to bottom.

I plan on keeping an eye on it, for now, doing some research to see what it takes and how much will cost. Now on to the meat of my question, with nearly 172k miles on the truck, is there anything else I should look at doing? Right now I'm looking at replacing the timing set (chain, sprockets, and tensioner) since I'll already have it torn down that far. I already replaced the water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, and temperature probe this past summer. My dad is suggesting the connecting rod bearings since they'll be easy to get to with the oil pan out of the way and not to worry about the oil pump if there are no obvious signs of abnormal wear.

I'm not looking to beef up the bottom end for more power, only get more life out of the engine since I already have things out of the way.

 

[Karlsweg]

I would change the oil pump and valve springs.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

I've been trying to find a slow coolant leak on my truck for about 6 months now. Well, I finally found it when I went under it to chase out the grounding strap from the heads and noticed a green (I added fluorescent dye to the coolant) wet spot along the length of the oil pan and block gasket seam. I traced it back to the front of the engine and found it running down the mating surfaces of the block and timing cover, top to bottom.

I plan on keeping an eye on it, for now, doing some research to see what it takes and how much will cost. Now on to the meat of my question, with nearly 172k miles on the truck, is there anything else I should look at doing? Right now I'm looking about replacing the timing set (chain, sprockets, and tensioner) since I'll already have it torn down that far. I already replaced the water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, and temperature probe this past summer. My dad is suggesting the connecting rod bearings since they'll be easy to get to with the oil pan out of the way and not to worry about the oil pump if there are no obvious signs of abnormal wear.

I'm not looking to beef up the bottom end for more power, only get more life out of the engine since I already have things out of the way.

I agree with @Karlsweg here. If you already have the timing cover off and are replacing the timing set I would install a new oil pump. It's cheap insurance. The pump will already be off of the motor.

Second, if you have the oil pan off you might as well stick in a fresh set of rod bearings. This gives you an opportunity to inspect the crank journals too.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Double post.

 

[LoneWolf3574]

I would change the oil pump and valve springs.

Not sure I want to go that deep into the engine and replace the valve springs just yet, it is a bit out of the way of the timing cover . I'm only pulling the timing cover, the oil pan is being pulled since it is being called for by the service manual as part of the timing cover gasket repair/replacement.

 

[gofishn]

gonn do this much work, might as well do it all. yank her and rebuild. how much longer do you think a 172K mile cam crank connectiung rods oil pump are gonna go with new timing tensioner firming everything up?


once you touch it, the rest of the engine will need loving too, way it alwaysw works out.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Not sure I want to go that deep into the engine and replace the valve springs just yet, it is a bit out of the way of the timing cover . I'm only pulling the timing cover, the oil pan is being pulled since it is being called for by the service manual as part of the timing cover gasket repair/replacement.

As a long time Mopar tech the oil pan is not required to come out from a mechanical/gasket standpoint. You can remove the oil pan to timing cover bolts and pull the timing cover.

On the other hand, the oil pan does come out very easily so you might as well pull it and inspect the rod bearings and crank journals in my opinion.

 

[LoneWolf3574]

gonn do this much work, might as well do it all. yank her and rebuild. how much longer do you think a 172K mile cam crank connecting rods oil pump are gonna go with new timing tensioner firming everything up?


once you touch it, the rest of the engine will need loving too, way it always works out.

As a long time Mopar tech the oil pan is not required to come out from a mechanical/gasket standpoint. You can remove the oil pan to timing cover bolts and pull the timing cover.

On the other hand, the oil pan does come out very easily so you might as well pull it and inspect the rod bearings and crank journals in my opinion.

I will say that for a 172k mile truck (who knows how many total run hours, I don't) it is still running strong. I've only had one other vehicle reach 178k and that was a 2002 Ford Windstar I bought with 9k on the odo that I wanted to toss a few sticks of explosives into before my daughter was rear-ended driving it and it was totaled.

I can say that so far, by what I've found in the service manual, I will definitely be replacing the timing set, connecting rod bearings, and oil pump. The oil pump only as a little insurance since I'm already there. I've got the parts shortlist going so far; Melling M342 oil pump, Melling 3704S timing set, Clevite CB1808?8 (haven't figured out A or P series or sizing needed quite yet), and Fel-Pro gaskets.

More to come, I'll post pictures as I go, this is my daily driver so I want everything on hand before I even start as I will plan on it being down for a week (slow and steady). Thankfully, I've got another car I can drive in the meantime (2008 Hyundai Accent).

EDIT - I'm adding ARP fasteners where possible. I just read the connecting rod bolts are torque to yield so I'm adding those parts to the list as well. I've also settled on the Clevite CB1808P8 standard sizing after talking to my dad, a lifelong automotive master.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

I will say that for a 172k mile truck (who knows how many total run hours, I don't) it is still running strong. I've only had one other vehicle reach 178k and that was a 2002 Ford Windstar I bought with 9k on the odo that I wanted to toss a few sticks of explosives into before my daughter was rear-ended driving it and it was totaled.

I can say that so far, by what I've found in the service manual, I will definitely be replacing the timing set, connecting rod bearings, and oil pump. The oil pump only as a little insurance since I'm already there. I've got the parts shortlist going so far; Melling M342 oil pump, Melling 3704S timing set, Clevite CB1808?8 (haven't figured out A or P series or sizing needed quite yet), and Fel-Pro gaskets.

More to come, I'll post pictures as I go, this is my daily driver so I want everything on hand before I even start as I will plan on it being down for a week (slow and steady). Thankfully, I've got another car I can drive in the meantime (2008 Hyundai Accent).

EDIT - I'm adding ARP fasteners where possible. I just read the connecting rod bolts are torque to yield so I'm adding those parts to the list as well. I've also settled on the Clevite CB1808P8 standard sizing after talking to my dad, a lifelong automotive master.

Your bearing choice is a good one. That is the bearing that I use for majority of my builds. For the oil pump the Melling M342 is a good pump but if you can swing the extra cash go with the Melling 10342. It is an upgraded pump that is worth the money in my opinion.

Also, glad that you remembered the rod bolts are torque-to-yield bolts. Any time you can use ARP fasteners you can't go wrong.

 

[LoneWolf3574]

What makes the Melling 10342 an improvement over the 342? Is it just a higher volume pump? I see it includes +10psi and +15psi springs, so the pressure can be adjusted.

I am choking a bit at the price of the bolts ($123 vs $40), but I figure they'll be worth it in the long run. I am finding it interesting that RockAuto and Summit are beating out Amazon overall in the price for all the parts.

 

[madtrucker2016]

Maybe the water pump is leaking through the weep hole ,they put that to let you know it,s going. Some new parts fail after a little time ,we all had that happen

 

[Fast69Mopar]

What makes the Melling 10342 an improvement over the 342? Is it just a higher volume pump? I see it includes +10psi and +15psi springs, so the pressure can be adjusted.

I am choking a bit at the price of the bolts ($123 vs $40), but I figure they'll be worth it in the long run. I am finding it interesting that RockAuto and Summit are beating out Amazon overall in the price for all the parts.

The Melling 10342 oil pump is definitely a bit more money but there are for sure some differences between the two pumps. The Melling 10342 is a standard volume performance upgrade of the M342 but the bypass springs can be changed for increased pump pressure. The 10342 has a hard-coated anodized body with a cast iron phosphate coated cover that improves pump performance and durability. The cup plugs have also been replaced with threaded fittings to allow the bypass springs to be swapped out. The pump has adjustable by-pass pressure using optional springs that come in the box with the pump. The pump also uses 1-1/8” bolt on screen.