Got myself a 2015 2500 6.4, couple questions for you guys..

[Mike Duckmanton]

I've been lurking on here for a couple weeks, and thanks for all the info I've already found!! It's gotten me a real head start on this truck.

So, what I found is a one owner unit that wasn't used for much else but being a commuter. It was serviced under warranty by the dealer it's whole life, but unfortunately I haven't tracked down it's history, and honestly don't know how/if I can do that.

I do have a shelf of parts ready for it, but had a few questions about what's next.

I'll start with what bits I already have:

2.5 Level kit
Bilstein 5100's
Airlift 5000# bags ( overkill, since I only tow a pretty light travel trailer <8000#)
Nitto 35 12.50 20's on Method wheels

It's a base truck, so I've read up on the 8.4 and EVIC upgrades, I'll order those when I get back from the lake next week. Thanks to Mpgrimm2 for the head start on that stuff!!


So, here are a few questions for now:

The truck drives great as is, but should I look at and adjustable track bar, or an upgraded steering stabilizer?

I've had a couple 3rd gens, but it sounds like the 4th gens don't need a steering box reinforcement as much? Opinions appreciated on that.

I've read about the thermal bypass on the trans, I'm interested in that, because you know, 3rd gen trannys....

Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance guys!!

 

[Brian2081]

Hi Mike, yes you will definitely need an adjustable track bar to re center the axle. With the level kit, it will pull the axle to the left and your steering wheel will be off center to the left. I went with RC track bar.
I also installed the RC steering box support, can't hurt.
I have had my RC level kit, track bar and support installed for almost 2 years with no issues or complaints. And I have not had to align it yet.
Oh, you will also want to adjust the caster bolts on the trailing arms by turing the bolt one notch aft, This is recommended by Thuren.
First pic just finished level install, second pic current state of mods, only cleaner.

 

[Mike Duckmanton]

Copy that, I'll get that stuff ordered. I wasn't sure if a guy gets away with the stock track bar, but a new one cant hurt, either way

 

[mtnrider]

I would do the track bar but you could get away without it at 2.5" level if you wanted.
I'd skip the air bags, not necessary for the weight you are pulling.
Stock steering stabilizer is fine. Too many people use them as a bandaid to mask other problems. If everything in the front in is tight and aligned you don't need anything else.
4th gens have a beefier steering box (actually everything is beefier) so the steering brace is another item you don't really need. It's just a carry over from the 3rd gens smaller steering box and keeps selling because of that.

I have 89K on my truck with 35's and 2.5" level. Everything else in the front end is still original and stock with the exception that I swapped in a power wagon track bar when I did the level. It's slightly longer the a stock 2500 track bar so helped center the wheels and the truck drives smooth and straight as an arrow.



.

 

[Mike Duckmanton]

I agree on the stabilizers being used to mask deeper problems. I might grab that a little later, I need to let my bank account catch up. The wheels and tires set me back a little more than I had planned...lol

I probably don't need the bags TBH, but I can't stand any kind of squat when I'm hauling or towing. Don't know why, it's just been an auto add to my trucks for years.

 

[mtnrider]

I agree on the stabilizers being used to mask deeper problems. I might grab that a little later, I need to let my bank account catch up. The wheels and tires set me back a little more than I had planned...lol

I probably don't need the bags TBH, but I can't stand any kind of squat when I'm hauling or towing. Don't know why, it's just been an auto add to my trucks for years.

I don't like rear squat myself. I actually added a 1" rear coil spacer just to give me a little rake back after leveling the front.

.

 

[SeppW]

So, here are a few questions for now:

The truck drives great as is, but should I look at and adjustable track bar, or an upgraded steering stabilizer? I'd replace both track bars first (Thuren or Carli).

I've had a couple 3rd gens, but it sounds like the 4th gens don't need a steering box reinforcement as much? Opinions appreciated on that. Debatable. Can't hurt to add one, worst case you're out of the time and money to buy and install. The factory gearbox is not necessarily bulletproof. There are some aftermarkets like Red Head or PSC that sell upgraded units that have bigger bore for sector shaft with improved bearings.

I've read about the thermal bypass on the trans, I'm interested in that, because you know, 3rd gen trannys.... Again debatable. The system is on there for a reason, but in a nutshell, it gets the trans temp to an optimal temp range that improves performance, or so goes the theory. Most aftermarket TBV blocks are open (the valve has been removed) on the premise the trans will run cooler, prevent clogging with clutch and other debris, and last longer. Unsure which trans you have, but if it's a RFE type, I think the best upgrade is an aftermarket valve body that has been rebuilt/modified to prevent cross-over leaks and improve shifting is a better investment, along with a deeper pan. However, if you are dead set on the TBV by-pass, I'd look at the Mishimoto TBV. Its design allows you to run with or without the by-pass valve and you can order valves with different temp ranges. I'm running one myself, but my only issue with it is the cap where you change out the valves and by-pass. It is plastic of some sort and I wonder if over time the cap will deteriorate and fail going through the heat and cool cycles. I guess I'll find out at some point at an inopportune time and place.

Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance guys!!

 

[Mike Duckmanton]

Thanks for the replies fellas, I appreciate the help

I was able to get away to the lake for a few nights, so was away from the computer

I towed our travel trailer up and back, and out of curiosity kept an eye on tranny temps most of the way. 90* outside temp or so, through some hilly country, not really mountains. Tranny temps hovered between 168-170*. Drove 70mph or less. No big surprises the, but I'll probably look deeper into the bypass options, just to be on the safe side.

I have to say I love the extra gears the 6 speed tranny has over previous trucks, it doesn't seem to work nearly as hard to stay in a comfortable rpm range. And the fuel mileage is pretty decent. Got about 10.4ish by the computer. If that's anywhere close to correct, it's about 3mpg better than my last Super Duty.

 

[Mike Duckmanton]

It's been a bit since I posted, but I got some parts installed today. I've been lazy, and it's been super hot up here in the PNW... Not used to temps over 100 for that long.

The level kit went in easy enough, and it was good to get the new Bilsteins on there as well. It still had the originals dated 2013..lol

I still have about 1/2" of rake, which is exactly what I was shooting for.

During the test drive, I did notice that the steering wheel was a bit off center. It drove straight, but clearly needs the track bar. I ordered one from Core4x4. It seemed like it's overbuilt, so It'll be more than I ever need.

Outside of that, I still have some cosmetic things to wrap up before the wheels and tires go on.

Another shout out to all the guys on this board. I've got my pretty base Tradesman sitting pretty with the 8.4 conversion, and an EVIC cluster from a Power Wagon that looks awesome with the VP4.

Thanks fellas!!

 

[HEMIMANN]

I've been lurking on here for a couple weeks, and thanks for all the info I've already found!! It's gotten me a real head start on this truck.

So, what I found is a one owner unit that wasn't used for much else but being a commuter. It was serviced under warranty by the dealer it's whole life, but unfortunately I haven't tracked down it's history, and honestly don't know how/if I can do that.

I do have a shelf of parts ready for it, but had a few questions about what's next.

I'll start with what bits I already have:

2.5 Level kit
Bilstein 5100's
Airlift 5000# bags ( overkill, since I only tow a pretty light travel trailer <8000#)
Nitto 35 12.50 20's on Method wheels

It's a base truck, so I've read up on the 8.4 and EVIC upgrades, I'll order those when I get back from the lake next week. Thanks to Mpgrimm2 for the head start on that stuff!!


So, here are a few questions for now:

The truck drives great as is, but should I look at and adjustable track bar, or an upgraded steering stabilizer?

I've had a couple 3rd gens, but it sounds like the 4th gens don't need a steering box reinforcement as much? Opinions appreciated on that.

I've read about the thermal bypass on the trans, I'm interested in that, because you know, 3rd gen trannys....

Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance guys!!

Nope - don't need a steering stablizer on Gen IV HD. I posted my results back somewhere. This sucker tracks true - no wobbles.

Yes, you should do the trans oil cooler line thermostat bypass. As a retired professional powertrain design engineer, this is one of the biggest boondoggles I've seen that lowers transmission oil (and transmission) life, all for miniscule increase in EPA CAFE fuel economy. I bought the RevMax retrofit empty thermostat block. Works great, trans oil temp down 30 degrees per the EVIC gauge readout. Only costs $100. Read about the tool tricks to get the old block out. Some crazy clip ring retainers on the front side.

 

[Mike Duckmanton]

Well, I got it mostly done. I just have to install the track bar, and order the TBV..

It got all the parts I listed above, plus the flares, grill, VP4 and Power Wagon cluster.

Thanks again guys, it's been a really easy build with all the help from this forum!

 

[Mike Duckmanton]

The dash is a nice upgrade from the uconnect 5.0 and the tiny 3" display that came stock

 

[HEMIMANN]

Also, being a 2015 pre-valve lifter upgrade model year, I highly recommend switch to Red Line 5W-30 engine oil immediately to minimize chance of lifter roller failure, wiping out the camshaft and possibly the entire engine if not caught soon enough.

This is a well known issue with all Hemi engines, particularly pre-2017 MY production before FCA attempted to fix with a new lifter vendor and modified lifter design. It is still not clear if or how effective the re-sourcing was, but it matters not for your truck. You can read thousands of post on the Synthetic Oil thread, including direct member evidence.

Failure rates are reported by Chrysler Techs and member polls to be in the 5-10% range of all Hemi engines, leading us to believe this is as much a supplier quality issue as design issue. The lubrication of the valve train is marginal on these engines due to a combination of high cam centerline needed to actuate the Siamese Hemi valvetrain (lack of splash lubrication @ idle rpm) and poor oil gallery drain to the lifter buckets themselves, requiring a "superoil" laden with dry lubricants and clingy basestock to compensate.

FCA Stellantis will not be redesigning Hemi Gen III engines to fix this since it is a block tooling issue - too expensive, based on my 32 years of industry experience.

We also recommend a synthetic media oil filter to promote lowest restrictive oil flow rate - either a Royal Purple filter (spin fiberglass media) or Fram XP (synthetic media blend).

 

[68PowerWagon]

Definitely do the tranny bypass! A hundred bucks well spent! Not sure how many miles are on your 15' but I would probably do a transmission flush while you have those lines off. Of coarse you will have to drop the pan too so you can change the filters as well. Again, money well spent if you are going to be towing with it.

 

[Mike Duckmanton]

Also, being a 2015 pre-valve lifter upgrade model year, I highly recommend switch to Red Line 5W-30 engine oil immediately to minimize chance of lifter roller failure, wiping out the camshaft and possibly the entire engine if not caught soon enough.

This is a well known issue with all Hemi engines, particularly pre-2017 MY production before FCA attempted to fix with a new lifter vendor and modified lifter design. It is still not clear if or how effective the re-sourcing was, but it matters not for your truck. You can read thousands of post on the Synthetic Oil thread, including direct member evidence.

Failure rates are reported by Chrysler Techs and member polls to be in the 5-10% range of all Hemi engines, leading us to believe this is as much a supplier quality issue as design issue. The lubrication of the valve train is marginal on these engines due to a combination of high cam centerline needed to actuate the Siamese Hemi valvetrain (lack of splash lubrication @ idle rpm) and poor oil gallery drain to the lifter buckets themselves, requiring a "superoil" laden with dry lubricants and clingy basestock to compensate.

FCA Stellantis will not be redesigning Hemi Gen III engines to fix this since it is a block tooling issue - too expensive, based on my 32 years of industry experience.

We also recommend a synthetic media oil filter to promote lowest restrictive oil flow rate - either a Royal Purple filter (spin fiberglass media) or Fram XP (synthetic media blend).

Copy that, I took the time to read through a good bit of the synthetic oil thread, and changed the oil about a week ago. It now had Redline 5W-30 in it, along with the larger Royal Purple filter. It actually sounds great, really only some injector noise. I'm pretty sure you helped guide me in that direction, so thanks again!

 

[Mike Duckmanton]

Definitely do the tranny bypass! A hundred bucks well spent! Not sure how many miles are on your 15' but I would probably do a transmission flush while you have those lines off. Of coarse you will have to drop the pan too so you can change the filters as well. Again, money well spent if you are going to be towing with it.

That was my plan. I'm not sure when it got it's last service, so a fluid and filter change was on the list when I do it. Now to figure out what trans fluid to get for it

 

[HEMIMANN]

That was my plan. I'm not sure when it got it's last service, so a fluid and filter change was on the list when I do it. Now to figure out what trans fluid to get for it

That's easier - the RFE trannys aren't so fragile they need magic mouse milk for lubricant. I suggest just using the MOPAR ATF+4 as good enough, ESPECIALLY if you get that oil temp back down to where it was before they fiddled with adding thermostats and restricting oil flow to the cooler. Then you're back to just regular trans oil changes and not worried about varnishing the thing. That's what I do, anyway. Some guys still want Amsoil or Redline ATF, but IMO it's not really necessary for RFE's. But it damn sure is in the Hemi engines!

There's two oil filters in there - the valve body suction filter, and the return line cannister filter. A good choice for cannister is Royal Purple 10-2867 for low oil flow restriction. For the flat suction filter I'd stick with the Mopar.

I got the Mopar ATF+4 for $7+ per quart in 5 quart jugs @ Summit. Amsoil & Red Line will set you back a lot more, again for what I don't know unless you run continual used oil analysis to see how long you really can go with oil change interval.

I was changing @ 35,000 miles before I took the thermostat out. Probably can go 50,000 miles now that temp is back down, but I think I'll still change @ 35,000 x2 miles to be safe. I don't drive as much anymore so it's not that often via the calendar time.

 

[Mike Duckmanton]

Got it, I'll get that stuff coming

 

[HEMIMANN]

Oh yeah - truck comes stand with RTV black gasket maker seal. You can scrap, wipe with alcohol, and reapply or go with aftermarket gasket. Guys like Lubelocker Gasket.

 

[68PowerWagon]

That's easier - the RFE trannys aren't so fragile they need magic mouse milk for lubricant. I suggest just using the MOPAR ATF+4 as good enough, ESPECIALLY if you get that oil temp back down to where it was before they fiddled with adding thermostats and restricting oil flow to the cooler. Then you're back to just regular trans oil changes and not worried about varnishing the thing. That's what I do, anyway. Some guys still want Amsoil or Redline ATF, but IMO it's not really necessary for RFE's. But it damn sure is in the Hemi engines!

There's two oil filters in there - the valve body suction filter, and the return line cannister filter. A good choice for cannister is Royal Purple 10-2867 for low oil flow restriction. For the flat suction filter I'd stick with the Mopar.

I got the Mopar ATF+4 for $7+ per quart in 5 quart jugs @ Summit. Amsoil & Red Line will set you back a lot more, again for what I don't know unless you run continual used oil analysis to see how long you really can go with oil change interval.

I was changing @ 35,000 miles before I took the thermostat out. Probably can go 50,000 miles now that temp is back down, but I think I'll still change @ 35,000 x2 miles to be safe. I don't drive as much anymore so it's not that often via the calendar time.

I wanna say Burla on here looked into the oils & the Mopar ATF+4 was considered a very good oil. I also wanna say that the Wal Mart Brand was not very far behind. I went ahead with the Mopar cause it is not something that will get done on mine more than a couple of times before I trade it. Getting your temps 25-30* cooler is going to do a lot for the longevity of the fluid & the tranny itself! I wish they would stop that crap of putting in transmission heaters! Been looking in to trading our Durango in for a new one & that is one thing they show as a standard feature. Doing that probably doesn't even save you $20 over the life of the vehicle. A toasted transmission is going to be worse for the environment than the few drops of fuel!!!