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On this '18 you have 2 bolts that are decently accessible so long as you have 9.5' of extension to reach one of them, don't mind inevitably breaking a mounting tab for said bolt, and enjoy accessing the "flap" inside the wheel well and mucking with the confounded slider lock assembly up inside said flap opening. Whomever designed such a DUMBA$$ contraption should be beaten about the head and neck with a dead turkey for 2 hours. I've reached that level of disgust for changing headlights on this truck... The biggest lesson learned is that I should have left the d a m n OEM bulbs installed and continued to be underwhelmed by their dull, yellow light in lieu of having this brighter/whiter "enhanced halogen" SHORT LIFE bulb.
I have leds in my factory quad headlamps and they're bright,but aimed correctly,but every so often someone thinks I have brights on. I have no drop out so then I put highs on to show them. The quad headlamp does look like multiple lights when on. Trucks sit higher so your lights are gonna hit people's mirrors. I just got aftermarket projector headlights and bought led bulbs for them,but don't have them installed yet. I'm going to do that with my new steel front bumper when weather gets a little better. Expecting 12-24 inches of snow now through Monday. Factory leds on some cars now are crazy bright. Even sitting higher in my leveled truck on 34 inch tires I get blinded. I have fully led fogs that have multiple leds (non replaceable),but those will not be on once I change rhe bumper. New bumper has 2 led pods on each side. I already bought a harness to combine them to plug into factory fog connector so they come on with factory switch. Not running a separate switch. Only issue I came across with new headlights is I already swapped bulbs on one headlight to make sure they'd work. The low beam projector lines up at 3 and 9 no issues. The high beam isn't as accessible and I couldnt figure out how to get the bulb oriented at 3 and 9. Did see some tips and tricks online,but I put them in an outside shed before the storm so didn't try yet. I do snow removal for my brother in laws landscaping business so I'm gonna have a busy couple days. Not sure if all the projector housings have similar high beam setup,but it has a small rectangular reflector for the high beam and is off to the side of the compartment where as the low beam is easy access with the door off the back. If yours is similar do you have any tips? Saw I could resize the one tab to be able to turn it properly or put it in at a slight angle and turn it to 3 and 9 and should drop in to lock.I used Sylvania Silver Star halogen bulbs for ages, back when there wasn't much to choose from besides HID or crap halogen.
During the last 10 or 12 years of use, they consistently survived about 14 months, or 2 months beyond warranty coverage.
Just like clockwork, or was it? I will never give Sylvania a penny of my money again.
This use was in my former '07 Tundra, which had horrible lighting, only used on weekends, but always with all lights on.
The Tundra double cab was larger than my Warlock, but apparently a shade of grey that was near invisible to other drivers.
In my Warlock, I've used inexpensive Fahren and Auxito low-profile LED bulbs from Amazon, in factory projector housings.
The Fahrens in the low beams are about 2 years old, and Auxito in the high beams are a bit less.
They are fantastic! I rarely get flashed, and I can drive on rural highways at 50 mph with only the low beams on.
The Fahrens have a 3-year replacement warranty, and the company have been phenomenal to work with.
I don't recall the warranty on the Auxito, but it is at least 2 years. I will update when I find it.
If I were starting again, I would find used factory projector housings and Fahren LED bulbs, all the way.
One caveat: most LED bulbs sold during the past 2 years have become brighter every few months.
I have some concerns that they may all have become too bright and cause issues with oncoming traffic unless they are correctly aligned.
I would still choose Fahren LED, but might choose to direct them a bit lower than the standard positions.
This video refers to LED, but I'm convinced that it should apply to all headlights.
How to Aim and Align Your Headlights
Shop all HID lighting products here: https://www.headlightrevolution.com/better_lighting_hid/hr_h_series?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=D...www.youtube.com
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Same as far as high beams. I think everyone is taught that. Clocking at 3 and 9 mimics the regular bulbs for proper beam. Sorry about the line breaks, I'm on my phone and never intended to make the post that long.More line breaks, please.
I experimented a wee bit with clocking on the high beams. As far as I can determine, it doesn't make too much difference with the OE Projectors on my truck.
AFAIK, clocking is to reduce the scatter effect and the disturbance of oncoming traffic.
I don't use my high beams with oncoming traffic at any distance. I learned to drive in the late '70s, and the way I was taught, if you see an oncoming vehicle at any range short of several miles, drop your high beams. Maybe sooner, if the conditions warrant it.
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I miss when it was that easy on almost all cars and trucks. Sure would be nice to be able to reach back and take the cover off and pull the bulb.
You mean, kind of like, make service items, SERVICEABLE? Crazy idea
Yeah, crazy notionYou mean, kind of like, make service items, SERVICEABLE? Crazy idea
