Hemi replacement

[wistim40]

What yr hemi will interchange with 04 ram 1500 5.7

 

[HemiLonestar]

Any 03-08 1500/2500 5.7 hemi. The 03 will not have EGR provision, the 06-08 1500 engines will have MDS. 2500 engines do not have MDS.

 

[wistim40]

I have found one out of an 06. Will I need to get the computer to or will it work on my 04 thanx in advance.

 

[MyOhFive]

Also any 2500/3500 hemi won't have an EGR either, but it is provisioned

 

[MyOhFive]

I believe you'll need the computer, if you want the MDS to run.

 

[RonJon '06]

If you swap the PCM it will need to be VIN flashed and match the odometer reading in your instrument cluster otherwise the truck won't start. If the motor you're putting in has MDS then I've heard you can just leave it unplugged and use you original PCM.

 

[moparman]

If you swap the PCM it will need to be VIN flashed and match the odometer reading in your instrument cluster otherwise the truck won't start.

The truck will run either way. My computer died almost a year ago now, the vin and mileage havent matched for the same amount of time



Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

 

[RonJon '06]

The truck will run either way. My computer died almost a year ago now, the vin and mileage havent matched for the same amount of time



Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

Well never mind my post and apologies to the OP for giving out bad info.

This is a big reason I decided to rebuild mine instead of doing a swap, I find it hard to wrap my head around all this PCM and programming business.

 

[moparman]

Well never mind my post and apologies to the OP for giving out bad info.

This is a big reason I decided to rebuild mine instead of doing a swap, I find it hard to wrap my head around all this PCM and programming business.

You werent entirely wrong, chryslers immobilizer system will allow the truck to start but it will die instantly if the key and module dont match.

I just wrapped up my v6 to v8 swap and its a combo of different pieces but computer gave me no trouble. 05 body, 02 engine and 05 v8 computer from a junkyard. Somehow it all works

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Jbaker33]

Bringing this baby back to life lol. I have an 06 ram 1500 5.7 QC 4x4. There nothing wrong with my motor right now and I'm trying to actively prevent that after read all of the issues these motors have. With that being said, I'm looking to buy a motor and rebuilding it on my own time frame vs waiting until mine goes and shelling out thousands get a new one or have it rebuilt. Will any 02-08 range 5.7s work for my truck? Does it matter what it comes from? I found an 04 for 300 but dont want to buy it and find out it won't work. I know it doesn't have MDS and that's ok with me.

 

[chrisp2493]

Bringing this baby back to life lol. I have an 06 ram 1500 5.7 QC 4x4. There nothing wrong with my motor right now and I'm trying to actively prevent that after read all of the issues these motors have. With that being said, I'm looking to buy a motor and rebuilding it on my own time frame vs waiting until mine goes and shelling out thousands get a new one or have it rebuilt. Will any 02-08 range 5.7s work for my truck? Does it matter what it comes from? I found an 04 for 300 but dont want to buy it and find out it won't work. I know it doesn't have MDS and that's ok with me.

Yes any block from 03-08 will work, they are all the same. The pre-MDS years still have all the provisions in the block to use the MDS if you want them. I think the 03 heads are the only 1500 heads that don’t have the egr, and the 2500 trucks don’t have them either. If you buy that engine, what type of rebuild are you planning on doing?

 

[Jbaker33]

Yes any block from 03-08 will work, they are all the same. The pre-MDS years still have all the provisions in the block to use the MDS if you want them. I think the 03 heads are the only 1500 heads that don’t have the egr, and the 2500 trucks don’t have them either. If you buy that engine, what type of rebuild are you planning on doing?

Well this would be my first engine rebuild so I'm not exactly sure what you mean on the type. I know for sure that I would get the rebuild kit for the whole thing. I found one for 700 ish. I would get the heads machined and if they do install the valve seats (not sure on what all they would do) I would make sure they knew about them dropping out. I'd definitely put new and better designed lifters in along with upgrading to 6.1 exhaust springs for all of the valves. I'd like to upgrade to performance type stuff but I don't know much about all of that and I know the wife wouldn't let me spend that kind of money lol. My thought process is this; I've always wanted to try and rebuild a motor so why not get one that would benefit me? My wife has a 2017 focus with the extra warranty so we don't need to worry about that. Also, Like I told her, it wouldn't be some thing that I HAD to get done right away so the stress wouldn't be there and it's def alot cheaper to rebuild it and have it sitting around rather than having to buy a used or rebuilt one

 

[chrisp2493]

Well this would be my first engine rebuild so I'm not exactly sure what you mean on the type. I know for sure that I would get the rebuild kit for the whole thing. I found one for 700 ish. I would get the heads machined and if they do install the valve seats (not sure on what all they would do) I would make sure they knew about them dropping out. I'd definitely put new and better designed lifters in along with upgrading to 6.1 exhaust springs for all of the valves. I'd like to upgrade to performance type stuff but I don't know much about all of that and I know the wife wouldn't let me spend that kind of money lol. My thought process is this; I've always wanted to try and rebuild a motor so why not get one that would benefit me? My wife has a 2017 focus with the extra warranty so we don't need to worry about that. Also, Like I told her, it wouldn't be some thing that I HAD to get done right away so the stress wouldn't be there and it's def alot cheaper to rebuild it and have it sitting around rather than having to buy a used or rebuilt one

Well I just got done rebuilding my own Hemi just a few months ago. It was my first engine rebuild, I ended up doing it twice haha. It sounds like you have an ideal situation, having time and patience is the key. I have a lot of pictures I took while I rebuilt it, and I have a few service manual pdf’s if you are interested.
You’ll want a new timing set. The chain is normally pretty good but the plastic chain tensioners wear out and break. That will run you about $90-$200 depending on what you get
Lifters run about $300-$500, they aren’t cheap.
If you want to upgrade the performance, best thing to do while you have the engine open is put in a new performance cam shaft. But if you go that route you’ll probably need some kind of tuning for it, which will require a handheld tuner. A new cam will run between $400-$600, and will require new valve springs and pushrods. It’s possible to find a good used cam like a comp 260 for cheaper if you’re lucky. I ran the 260 in my truck for a bit and it’s a good torquey cam for our trucks. There are tons of options for cams, if you decide to go that route.
The 6.1 exhaust springs are a great upgrade, I use them on mine. They should handle a cam up to around .560 lift. I’m running a .556/.561 lift cam with those springs in my stroker motor.
If you do an aftermarket cam, you’ll want to pick up a set of 6.1 pushrods. They are forged, so stronger then the stock 5.7 pushrods. If you decide to leave it with the stock cam, don’t use the 6.1 pushrods. The 6.1 cams have a different base size then the 5.7 cams, so the 6.1 pushrods are about .125 longer and won’t work well. Most aftermarket cams are ground on the 6.1 base circle size, that’s why the rods are a necessary upgrade.
For the valve seats, from what I’ve heard is they only typically drop out when they get overheated. My machine shop puts the heads in an oven and heats them up, and if they drop out, they fix those ones. As far as I know that’s the best way to fix any issues unless you want to pay to have them all removed and redone, which I imagine is pretty expensive.
If you replace your oil pump, the Melling 362 pump is a good upgrade, it’s the 6.1 oil pump and has a higher pressure regulator on it. It runs about $130 at Summit Racing.
The headbolts, connecting rod bolts, and the main crank stud bolts are all yield to torque bolts, if you remove them, you need to replace them.
If you end up replacing the piston heads for any reason, the wrist pins are a press fit design, they need to be heated to be installed, and I HIGHLY recommend to have an experienced machine shop do that. Remember is said I rebuilt my engine twice? Here’s what happens when you overheat the connecting rod putting the pin in. It stretched the small end of the rod and the wrist pin was sliding around in the cylinder.

If you have any questions, I’ll be happy to help, or point you to someone who knows!

 

[Jbaker33]

Well I just got done rebuilding my own Hemi just a few months ago. It was my first engine rebuild, I ended up doing it twice haha. It sounds like you have an ideal situation, having time and patience is the key. I have a lot of pictures I took while I rebuilt it, and I have a few service manual pdf’s if you are interested.
You’ll want a new timing set. The chain is normally pretty good but the plastic chain tensioners wear out and break. That will run you about $90-$200 depending on what you get
Lifters run about $300-$500, they aren’t cheap.
If you want to upgrade the performance, best thing to do while you have the engine open is put in a new performance cam shaft. But if you go that route you’ll probably need some kind of tuning for it, which will require a handheld tuner. A new cam will run between $400-$600, and will require new valve springs and pushrods. It’s possible to find a good used cam like a comp 260 for cheaper if you’re lucky. I ran the 260 in my truck for a bit and it’s a good torquey cam for our trucks. There are tons of options for cams, if you decide to go that route.
The 6.1 exhaust springs are a great upgrade, I use them on mine. They should handle a cam up to around .560 lift. I’m running a .556/.561 lift cam with those springs in my stroker motor.
If you do an aftermarket cam, you’ll want to pick up a set of 6.1 pushrods. They are forged, so stronger then the stock 5.7 pushrods. If you decide to leave it with the stock cam, don’t use the 6.1 pushrods. The 6.1 cams have a different base size then the 5.7 cams, so the 6.1 pushrods are about .125 longer and won’t work well. Most aftermarket cams are ground on the 6.1 base circle size, that’s why the rods are a necessary upgrade.
For the valve seats, from what I’ve heard is they only typically drop out when they get overheated. My machine shop puts the heads in an oven and heats them up, and if they drop out, they fix those ones. As far as I know that’s the best way to fix any issues unless you want to pay to have them all removed and redone, which I imagine is pretty expensive.
If you replace your oil pump, the Melling 362 pump is a good upgrade, it’s the 6.1 oil pump and has a higher pressure regulator on it. It runs about $130 at Summit Racing.
The headbolts, connecting rod bolts, and the main crank stud bolts are all yield to torque bolts, if you remove them, you need to replace them.
If you end up replacing the piston heads for any reason, the wrist pins are a press fit design, they need to be heated to be installed, and I HIGHLY recommend to have an experienced machine shop do that. Remember is said I rebuilt my engine twice? Here’s what happens when you overheat the connecting rod putting the pin in. It stretched the small end of the rod and the wrist pin was sliding around in the cylinder.

If you have any questions, I’ll be happy to help, or point you to someone who knows!

Wow. That's crazy. So what was the fix for the cylinder? Tonight I actually started to take apart the front end of my truck. I have an antifreeze leak that's coming from around the water pump but haven't been able to find the exact spot. I told my wife I want to do the timing while I'm in there. I found a pump and timing set with everything. Around 50 dollars each so a little over a hundred which ain't bad at all.

 

[Jbaker33]

What kind of service manuals are They? I have one myself that's like 5,000 pages long lol.

I forgot to attach on last but here is what I've taken apart tonight before I called it a night. I need to get a wrench to take the fan off still so that's why it's on there. Also, some of my **** is ghetto rigged, don't judge haha. My passenger headlight doesn't have the part of it that bolts to the frame so I had to rig it up for now. The previous owner got into a wreck with it