Brock14
Member
I'm wanting to replace my highs, lows, and fogs all with HIDs. I've never had HIDs before and from what all I've found I'm completely lost! Can anyone help me out with everything I would need for this setup?
Thanks

Thanks
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

I've got 2 cents for ya. If you do not have projects in your headlamps you will blind on-coming traffic with HID bulbs.
HIDs are not instant on, they typically take several seconds to come up to full output albeit you can find instant on technology but the bulb life shortens. Also using HIDs in the high beams you will loose flash-to-pass because of the start up time.
If you do put HIDs in your fog lights, consider a Kelvin temperature under 3000 so you get than cut-throught-the-fog ability.
If you have a Sport trim or higher, then you should have projectors. Look for a HID kit that has loading resistors and a relay harness to prevent bulb-out messages. Google "can-bus HID kits" even though bulb out detection has absolutely nothing to do with the vehicle's CAN-buses.
Thanks for the info I know about the delayed brightness with warm up. I do have a 2014 laramie with the projector lights and the light output from them is absolutely horrible. Is there any other options yall would go with besides HID headlights I cant take these pos head lights anymore.
Isn't that the truth. I was surprised that the halogens that came out of the projectors (I have a 13 Laramie) were 55 watt bulbs. The lighting was horrid, driving at night in the rain it was difficult to see.
I added a HID kit to the projectors only, I selected a 55 watt bulb and ballast combination at 4300 Kelvin. What a difference, I live rural off of dirt roads and have no problems seeing in the rain at night.
I can't recommend the place I bought from (one of the retro somethings), I've had too many issues from different temperature bulbs, a failed ballast, two failed relays, and a burned out capacitor. I did NOT buy from Retroshop.us but I should have, you know what they say about hind sight.
The new electrical architecture that was introduced on 2013 RAMs uses the body controller to manage the lighting circuits. The circuits have bulb out detection so a loading resistor on each lamp is needed to keep the expected current draw so that a false bulb out message isn't displayed.
I also suggest a harness with an automotive grade relay to provide power to the ballast. The BCM uses pulse width modulation to power the headlamps, the off time in the PWM can cause HID flickering but a good relay will stay latched during the off times (milliseconds).
I am not aware of any other solution outside of HIDs.
Bosshogg how do you like the 4300k bulbs? Thats the bulbs I've heard the best about.
![]()
Just installed 55w 6000k HIDs in my lows and fogs from Jeremy at Retroshop...love em.
So if I'm getting this right by the looks of the website you have to buy 3 different kits to have highs lows and fogs?
Pm Jeremy at Retroshop. He will set you up right. Also swapped leds in my bed lights, reverse lights, and license plate lights from retro - solutions.
Here's what you guys are after!
Heads - 2013+ Dodge Ram HIDs
Fogs - 2009+ Dodge Ram HIDs - for Fog lights
These 13+ Rams are FUN.......picky little punks sometimes. They are a bit more cumbersome than the 09-12s, where a simple capacitor cared for the issues (quads anyway). The new ones, with the aforementioned computer fun - it can get tricky! But, we have the right combination of resistors, caps, etc - good to go.![]()
let me know your thoughts!