How did you get the $9, $10, $11k+ off sticker......

[CoHillbilly]

All dealers are not created equally when it comes to negotiating discounts. I figured out which dealers had the particular model and emailed them asking for there best price. Some replied back with decent discounts but not good enough. I then let them know that some dealers (based on my research) were offering $11k discounts (includes rebates that only I qualify for). Most wouldn't budge from their initial offers of $6-8k off. One dealer did come back and said they would give me $11k off msrp. I went and test drove, agreed to their discounted price (plus tt&l), and then negotiated a decent price on my trade in.





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[ExpressRules]

In your case you got the truck down to what you wanted and then you had to work them over on the trade in.....

Didn't have to work them over. Just told them their number was wrong and they came back 5 minutes later with what I wanted to hear. As I said, its two different transactions. You are buying a vehicle from them and selling one to them.

 

[BigA]

All dealers are not created equally when it comes to negotiating discounts. I figured out which dealers had the particular model and emailed them asking for there best price. Some replied back with decent discounts but not good enough. I then let them know that some dealers (based on my research) were offering $11k discounts (includes rebates that only I qualify for). Most wouldn't budge from their initial offers of $6-8k off. One dealer did come back and said they would give me $11k off msrp. I went and test drove, agreed to their discounted price (plus tt&l), and then negotiated a decent price on my trade in.





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That's what I did, don't be afraid to walk away if the price is not right. I've walked out a couple times only to get a call later in the day saying they would meet my number doesn't always happen but sometimes it does. With my current Ram I went to the dealer on the last day of the month which can also up your chances especially if they are behind on sales for the month they may let some cars go for a negative profit if it will allow them to make their numbers.

 

[EagleChief]

I worked on 4 different dealers for 2 months to find my truck. Made an offer on one a couple of hours away, turned out to be a demo truck that they were trying to sell new. Cancelled that transaction.

Went back to the first local dealer and they finally found the one I wanted, exactly how I wanted it... but, it was 300 miles away in another state. I had to do some investigating to find out where it was located and then tried to get other local dealers to deal with me and have it brought over. I had my top price and none of them tried to get down to my max. Once I figured out where the truck was, called them directly and went back and forth for a couple of days. Ended up agreeing on a price that was just below my max and got a full tank of gas.

All in all, I got $13k off. While dealing with the price, I just kept asking if there were any more rebates they could give me. We went through all kinds of options for rebates... even got something called Target Direct Mail (TDM). Not really sure what it is or how much, but they applied it to get down to our price.

 

[noupf]

Didn't have to work them over. Just told them their number was wrong and they came back 5 minutes later with what I wanted to hear. As I said, its two different transactions. You are buying a vehicle from them and selling one to them.

Thanks for the clarification. If you don't don't mind me asking, how close was the value of your trade in on KBB/NADA compared to what they gave you.

My 2010 Silversdo LTZ has a trade in range between $22,250 ( kbb) and $23,500 (nada) Is be happy if they split the difference at $23k and get my $10k off the truck.

 

[ExpressRules]

Thanks for the clarification. If you don't don't mind me asking, how close was the value of your trade in on KBB/NADA compared to what they gave you.

My 2010 Silversdo LTZ has a trade in range between $22,250 ( kbb) and $23,500 (nada) Is be happy if they split the difference at $23k and get my $10k off the truck.

They came back and offered $500 more then what I had set as my minimum acceptable, which was about $3,000 more then their original offer.

I know they were going to keep it and resell at a profit and sure enough 3 days after taking it they had it all detailed pretty and advertised on their site. Within 2 weeks it was gone.

 

[dkmesa]

and don't be afraid to ask for them to throw in any accessories that you might want to sweeten the deal!

I really wish I had asked for window tint and bedliner before agreeing to pay $280 more than the number I had in mind going in.

 

[Typetwelve]

Mine was a bunch of stacked, pre-determined discounts. The '14 stickered at $39K and they had it advertised at "$10,000 OFF!!!! LOLWTFBBQ!!!"

After doing some digging I qualified for every one save the small business owner whatever so in the end I got it for $8K off sticker (If I remember correctly).

 

[noupf]

They came back and offered $500 more then what I had set as my minimum acceptable, which was about $3,000 more then their original offer.

I know they were going to keep it and resell at a profit and sure enough 3 days after taking it they had it all detailed pretty and advertised on their site. Within 2 weeks it was gone.

so you didn't know what your trade was actually worth? I'm just curious if you looked into the trade in value on Kelly blue book or the nada guide for at least a reference point.

thanks for sharing your experience btw, very helpful !!

 

[ExpressRules]

so you didn't know what your trade was actually worth? I'm just curious if you looked into the trade in value on Kelly blue book or the nada guide for at least a reference point.

thanks for sharing your experience btw, very helpful !!

I did know the trade range. I researched KBB, and a few other sources and also looked at prices in auto trader website. So based on that, I came up with a minimum I would accept. If I couldn't reach that I was prepared to go through the trouble of selling it myself. While I would have made more in doing that, I value my time and eliminating the aggravation of private sale.

My previous truck was paid off and ran great so they needed a deal more then I did. I didn't need a new truck so I would have said thank you for your time and walked out without hesitation. Never being too committed to the deal unless you are comfortable is the key. And getting every last single dollar isn't really needed. If I liked the truck and negotiated the best I could I wouldn't have let a small amount between the parties ruin the deal. I know some people that would get within $100 and walk away because they wanted that last $100. I never understood that.

 

[jsteinm1]

My newer tactic that I like well is dealing total with internet sales before going in. My last truck I set up the whole deal though email and a few phone calls. The two times I've done this it seems to work a little better. My last truck was also from a high volume dealer - Woodhouse - which helps.

I got a 14 Sport in December, stickerd at $49k, had $9500 in rebates, and price was around invoice. That brings it down to about $35k before ttl. This was the first price they shot me via email, no haggling.

 

[6.7CumminsDrvr]

Bought my 3 previous trucks at the same place, they love it when I walk in the door. 1st one I traded was sold before I actually had the papers signed on the new one!

 

[darthdzl]

I disagree with that statement. I've brought my wife for several purchases through the years. I've always told her to show concern about the cost and act like she thinks the cost is too high for the family budget. I've always found that salesman hates having a 3rd party there raining on the parade and it motivates them to sweeten the deal.

Well, the point is it can go either way. You can control your own behavior...unless your spouse came with a remote, you can advise but not control someone else's. ^_^

But seriously, it depends on your spouse. If your spouse is prone to attacks of "Oooo! Shiny!", don't bring him/her. If not, and he/she can keep a cool demeanor, and maybe even help things along like yours, by all means.

Just trying to keep it simple. One person looking means no appeals to another party, looking for sympathy.

 

[darthdzl]

Much wisdom in this thread. ExpressRules clearly knows the game, as do EagleChief and several others. Playing dealers off each other is something I'd forgotten to mention, and is a good one.

Everything works better with paper. If you're ready to walk out of a dealer and can swipe the "doodle" pad with the latest numbers on it, so much the better. Another dealer will often be keen to beat that number. If you can find a salesman willing to put things on paper and actually hand them to you, even more. I always go into a dealer with the Kelley printouts of my trade-in's value, as well as the explanation that says "this number is what you can expect to receive from a dealer".

Something I do (because I'm an argumentative *******) is always point out the flaw in the salesman's babble, even if you have to interrupt him to do so. When it becomes clear that you know the vehicle better than he does, you know what your car is worth, you know what your target is worth, and you know the game he's playing, it'll either knock him off his game, or he'll stop ******* around and give you the deal you both know you'll end up at. The latter is more rare, but sweet when it comes.

 

[VectorZ]

I buy a lot of new cars and trucks. I average a new one about every 12-18 months (dumb I know.) I have found the honest no BS approach works best. I simply call the dealership and tell them I understand that they are a business, not a non-profit charity. That said, the dealer that gives me the best no BS deal gets my business, period. So give me your best price once and only once. If you BS me, I'm gone. It's sort of like my own personal Gladiator!

 

[Sportznut]

I buy a lot of new cars and trucks. I average a new one about every 12-18 months (dumb I know.) I have found the honest no BS approach works best. I simply call the dealership and tell them I understand that they are a business, not a non-profit charity. That said, the dealer that gives me the best no BS deal gets my business, period. So give me your best price once and only once. If you BS me, I'm gone. It's sort of like my own personal Gladiator!

Unfortunately too few quality Ram dealers exist in my area. I know of a couple but they are 100 and 400 miles away. I do have several quality good non-RAM dealers nearby.

I have bought many new vehicles as well. I treat as I am treated.

I have had several great, no hassle & fair transactions with Toyota & Honda but sorting through this Ram purchase was like going back to the 1970's. The dealer was slimey. I will travel the 400 miles next time.

I usually try to support my local area businesses even if I pay a little more, but if they pull crap the internet is a great equalizer.

 

[Jmhm17]

When I went it to buy my truck I made sure I was pre approved with a number in mind, and had other options before I even stepped foot in the door. I made it very clear I was doing some serious shopping around for an F150, and a Silverado, and I was kind of testing the waters with Ram as I have heard horror stories.. I got about 9K off sticker. Bottom line, Dodge is trying to sell trucks, they are trying to be top dog with two other companies that just released new generations. If one place gives you a price thats too high then walk away. leave your number and keep searching. theres hundreds of thousands of these trucks, its not like your never going to find one lol

 

[BlownGP]

My newer tactic that I like well is dealing total with internet sales before going in. My last truck I set up the whole deal though email and a few phone calls. The two times I've done this it seems to work a little better. My last truck was also from a high volume dealer - Woodhouse - which helps.

I got a 14 Sport in December, stickerd at $49k, had $9500 in rebates, and price was around invoice. That brings it down to about $35k before ttl. This was the first price they shot me via email, no haggling.

Thats what I did when I was looking for my truck. Called around, emailed a few people and got prices.

I bought the one I have now site un-seen from Tennessee, couldn't pass up the deal.

 

[FXCLM5]

wasnt very hard for me,

i live in norcal - have access to 2 huge high inventory dodge dealerships vs dozens of smaller ones in each and every city

just bought my used 2014 1500 quad 4x4 5.7 big horn for 28k + TTL a lil under 31K OTD for my area

i was looking at brand new ones for about a month, had the dealers working for me over the phone got one for 33k OTD, tradesmen with 26c package 4x4 quad 5.7l basically the truck i have right now minus big horn interior, the 26c gives you the fog lights the 20's and the dual exhausts along with paint matched bumpers which i actually prefer over the chrome

surprise i did a used search the morning before i was going to buy and found my truck for 2k less and one trim package higher (big horn interior vs tradesmen

 

[rgroome7]

This has been a great read. I have been looking for a new/used 2500 or 3500 with the 6.4. I have been to 2 dealers in the west/south chicago suburbs, neither of them seem very excited to sell, or there just arent insentives for this area on these trucks. Both trucks MSRP for just under 50k. One dealer said there bottom like was 45 and some change, but only wanted to give me 3k for my trade (2004 Ram 3500 5.7L 4x4 4D dually with 178,000 decent shape) another "no hassle" dealer was only taking 2500 of of MSRP, they did offer me 7k for my truck which is within what KBB says its worth.
Has any around Chicago had any luck finding a good dealer that is willing to work on a deal? What else can I do to get the price down, and after reading this post I feel like if Im not getting 8k or so off Im just getting ripped off. Am I wrong on that feeling?