How much of a drop for my 3500 hitch?

[toddmakesamove]

Hi y'all and thanks for taking the time to read my question.

2022 3500 4by4 long-bed crew cab. I know I will need a drop-hitch, but I don't know how to figure out what I need. What do I do to find this out? I need it to go and pick up my TT. My truck seems really high for a factory HD.

I've been looking at the B&W 2.5inch receiver, tri ball, 7inch drop, 14.5k - I wanted the tri ball because I plan on having other smaller things to tow. Any TT I'm looking at is 11K GVWR or less.

 

[Travelin Ram]

First measure the trailer coupler height with the trailer level on a flat surface. Then measure your receiver in the truck. Expect the truck to drop 1-1/2” under load give or take. So basically R-1.5-T = the drop you’ll want.

TT normally a WD hitch is involved, how much is the tongue weight?

 

[dhay13]

Agreed. You are likely gonna be running a WDH with that size trailer, even with a 3500. My son has a Husky TS Centerline but his is the 2" and he uses his adapter. He has a 26' TT that weighs 8100lbs and his hitch is set on the lowest set of holes to get it right. We weighed it loaded and he had 1000lbs tongue weight (about 12%). Towed it almost 10,000 miles in 2 years all over the country and it towed like a dream

 

[gofishn]

17-19" is most commoen although soem trailers need ball height of 19-21". If you Travel Trailer has the higher suspension, then go with 19-21" at top of ball, once inserted into receiver.


This willlget ya close, best mether is to level trailer, measure top of the 'ball; connector on trailer tongue.
allow for 1 inch of drop, possibly 2 inc , dependign on tongue weight, which sold be 9-12%, ideally. tongue weight is generally most affected be axle placement and trailer load out..

BTW< do not trust you trailer axles are properly set, to trailer frame. mesure them and watch them go down the road and check wear patterns on tires.

have seen a otn of trailers that were not right, mostly the cheaper consumer models, higher end units tend to have that stuff set right, thats what you pay for, craftsmanship.

good luck

 

[toddmakesamove]

Good thing I came here because I forgot about sway control and was not looking at a WDH.

Just to make sure: "Weight Distribution Hitch' (WDH?) with sway control is what I want?

My PL rating is 4160. The tongue weight of all the TTs I like are 1100-1400lbs. Will having a PL in the truck affect my hitch? I plan on having at least 3k+ PL with tongue weight. I will have bags installed.

@gofishn I know these trailers have problems. What do mean axles even? How do I measure that? Moreover, where do I get information of that type on the web? Outside of asking you, I'm sure I will need to read some.


NEVER TOWED ANYTHING. PLEASE ADVISE LIKE I'M A CHILD. I KNOW VERY LITTLE. I've sold it all and I'm going to be traveling with my dogs full-time. I'm taking all the passenger seats out of my truck this week - I have zero need for them - type of travel.

Thanks again, y'all.

 

[Travelin Ram]

Yep, WDH with integrated sway control is the way to go. Every brand has one, some fancier or more effective because they use complicated geometry to reduce the leverage the trailer exerts on the truck. Hensley is one brand. Worth reading about to learn but not necessary IMO for your combination.
Something such as the Equalizer brand that uses friction bars is more affordable and plenty effective. I like that design because it’s simple and no chains to fool around with. They will moan and groan on turns at times.

Most important factor in choosing the WDH is get the correct spring bars for your actual tongue weight. Loaded with your contents, battery, propane etc. More is NOT better, the bars are springs and need to flex as you drive through humps and depressions in the road.

Crooked trailer axles will make themselves apparent. First, does it follow you straight down the road? A simple look in the mirrors will tell you if the trailer is offset to one side.
Second is irregular tire wear. If all trailer tires wear evenly you have no worries.

PS I’m not a fan of airbags. Unnecessary IMO.

 

[toddmakesamove]

I have come to like this system, from my research. I saw out here a thread about it - slightly older. The extra $400 seems worth it to have a system that tells me its distribution of weight. I'd rather be safe than sorry: I'll have my K9's with me in the truck and the other drivers.

Thoughts on the product below?

True Tow Weight Distribution - Heavyweight | Weigh Safe

The first-ever weight distribution hitch that can truly distribute your load with ease. ONE HITCH FOR ALL tow vehicles and trailer. Buy today!

www.weigh-safe.com

 

[Travelin Ram]

Nothing wrong with that hitch. I’ve seen some videos, I think TFL or someone did a review.

 

[Ratman6161]

A lot of people will scoff at what I'm about to say. But for a beginner, it's probably best to have your RV dealer set up your hitch for you. I think the main complaints are because the dealer will be hooking up an empty trailer. They wont know how much you will load in the trailer or where you will load it. They also won't know what you will load in the bed of the truck. But their setup will give you a starting point from which you can make adjustments. Your hitch will have setup instructions which will help. Also check the guidance on hitch setup in your trucks owners manual.

Also check with your dealer before buying a hitch. Some ay not want to set up a hitch they didn't sell.

 

[gofishn]

Good thing I came here because I forgot about sway control and was not looking at a WDH.

Just to make sure: "Weight Distribution Hitch' (WDH?) with sway control is what I want?

My PL rating is 4160. The tongue weight of all the TTs I like are 1100-1400lbs. Will having a PL in the truck affect my hitch? I plan on having at least 3k+ PL with tongue weight. I will have bags installed.

@gofishn I know these trailers have problems. What do mean axles even? How do I measure that? Moreover, where do I get information of that type on the web? Outside of asking you, I'm sure I will need to read some.


NEVER TOWED ANYTHING. PLEASE ADVISE LIKE I'M A CHILD. I KNOW VERY LITTLE. I've sold it all and I'm going to be traveling with my dogs full-time. I'm taking all the passenger seats out of my truck this week - I have zero need for them - type of travel.

Thanks again, y'all.

Ever see an old Chevy going down the road an it loks liek it is dog tracking? Not perfectly aligned , on teh sides, rear end off to one side? Thats because those old chevy had an axle alignment tab, rubber thing, that went into a certain spot, n the leaf spring and they were notorisous for nsapping off or jumping out of alignment.
I;ve folowed campers, car trailers, even boat trailers and seen teh same thing .

harder to notice, since the both sides, are not always visible, but if you wtcth jut the axles, really noticeable.

Tires do nto roll down the road, so much as dragged across it. causes tires to wear out, much quicker.
Also exagerates, wind caused sway, being transferred to the towing vehicle. Insteadof rolling directly in lien with towing vehcile, the towed vehicle is actually trying to to one side or the other and fights aginst teh ball or hitch connection.

thats what i mean by checking axle alignement.
make sure it runs true. Like an un plumb wall. off justa little cuases all kinds of issues.

WDH hitch, go with the bar connections,, not the chains.

For just a normal ball, not weight hitch, pick up a weigh safe with internal scale on the hitch so you know what you your htonugue is for the tiem beign towed. get whatever length drop you need and adjust ball position based on trailer being connected to truck.




scale right inside the hitch.

Length of the drop shaft allows you to swtich up ball hieght. also, ball is completely interchanging with a ball of different size.
easy peasy to tow whatever, whenever.



WDH set up is liek this




No chains hanging off teh arms. arms go inside a L bracket. cna get plastic to quiet things up,w hen turning
I prefer this kind of set up

I do not have eithe rone of these things. i am using the same stuff i;ve had, forever, but if I do need tp update, its; ggoing to weigh safe or Gen-Y, most likely.

though, I do also have soem other brands I like too. depends on whats on sale, when I have a need though weigh safe will be hitch only option, just so i know what actual tongue weights are.




again, do not be afraid to ask questions form those at camp grounds
or even here.Those who tow, all learnt, how to tow, the hard way or by asking others.
One who learned teh Hard Way are most eager to stop others form learnign that way.

Not because they are nice.
they just do not want your Hard Way Lesson, to come,
when they are heading into you, in the other lane.

 

[Capt Derek]

Hi y'all and thanks for taking the time to read my question.

2022 3500 4by4 long-bed crew cab. I know I will need a drop-hitch, but I don't know how to figure out what I need. What do I do to find this out? I need it to go and pick up my TT. My truck seems really high for a factory HD.

I've been looking at the B&W 2.5inch receiver, tri ball, 7inch drop, 14.5k - I wanted the tri ball because I plan on having other smaller things to tow. Any TT I'm looking at is 11K GVWR or less.

Depends on trailer tongue height and weight and what type of weight distribution hitch you are going to use, I like Anderson, less weight than bar type, just pulled 8800 miles last summer, no sway.

 

[TorqueWagon]

An additive thing to consider.... Look at the weight rating of the ball mount and the weight rating of the ball itself. I have noticed that most of the ones you might buy at the auto parts store or the big box walmart are only rated in the neighborhood of 7,000 pounds or so. They are formed with a hollow receiver tube insert. My TT can weigh in loaded at about 8,000 or more. I special ordered and paid extra dinero for a 15,000 pound solid steel ball mount. You might say that's overkill, but for me it's a one-time buy no matter what I'm towing and it's peace of mind. Just sayin'.....

 

[redvetram]

I tow multiple different trailers, requiring different tongue heights and ball sizes. Got an adjustable hitch with exchangeable balls and it works for all of them.

 

[toddmakesamove]

I am most definitely going with the Weigh Safe Hitch. Given my newness to this situation, I think the Weigh Safe takes the guess work out and relies on formulas. My undergrad is in Physics and the Weigh Safe seems perfect - IMO - compared to other systems. JIC, I understand math more than towing currently.

I'm getting the B&W Chrome 3 Ball Drop Hitch for non-tailer pulling. It gives me my weight rating, all towing possibilities, and looks nice, IMO. If I can buy a ball from Weigh Safe to fit the WDH and its not close in price to the B&W - I will get that.

So after learning about sway, I feel I have a decent understanding. My "ace in the hole" is, my truck will most likely weigh as much as my TT. I plan to have at least 3k in the truck, and that will bring the weight of the truck to the weight of the trailers I like.

The Math: MY 3500 is 11,400 GVWR - 4160 PL = 7240 + 3000 added PL = 10,240.
Travel Trailers I like are around 10,500 GTWR and are usually dry weight of 9000 or less.

Conclusion: With both the truck and trailer weighing the same, the long bed option, and anti-sway WDH -- I should be OK and have great control over the vehicle?

What do y'all think? Thanks for stopping by.

 

[gofishn]

should be fine.

keep tires aired up on both tow vheicle and vehicle being towed.

not checking the trailre tires is #1 source of holy carp moments.

oh yeah, make sure trailer has good tires and not those china bombs junk.

google it.

my camper is a 2020 and its getting new tires. this month.
Doubt camper has 3k miles on it but tires are close to 4 yrs old and not messing aroudn with a flat.
too old and easier to prevent than repair.

 

[Riccochet]

should be fine.

keep tires aired up on both tow vheicle and vehicle being towed.

not checking the trailre tires is #1 source of holy carp moments.

oh yeah, make sure trailer has good tires and not those china bombs junk.

google it.

my camper is a 2020 and its getting new tires. this month.
Doubt camper has 3k miles on it but tires are close to 4 yrs old and not messing aroudn with a flat.
too old and easier to prevent than repair.

Great advice! Get rid of the china bomb's ASAP on any trailer. And, given that trailer tires have been properly maintained and covered, I'd say 5 years is the max I'd go on a set.

 

[Mark Williton]

Yep, WDH with integrated sway control is the way to go. Every brand has one, some fancier or more effective because they use complicated geometry to reduce the leverage the trailer exerts on the truck. Hensley is one brand. Worth reading about to learn but not necessary IMO for your combination.
Something such as the Equalizer brand that uses friction bars is more affordable and plenty effective. I like that design because it’s simple and no chains to fool around with. They will moan and groan on turns at times.

Most important factor in choosing the WDH is get the correct spring bars for your actual tongue weight. Loaded with your contents, battery, propane etc. More is NOT better, the bars are springs and need to flex as you drive through humps and depressions in the road.

Crooked trailer axles will make themselves apparent. First, does it follow you straight down the road? A simple look in the mirrors will tell you if the trailer is offset to one side.
Second is irregular tire wear. If all trailer tires wear evenly you have no worries.

PS I’m not a fan of airbags. Unnecessary IMO.

Bags are only really needed on coil spring 1500's to prevent excess sag. 2500 & 3500's with leaf springs don't need them in my experience. As others have said, you want the trailer sitting level when loaded, so as advised, calculate hitch drop based on 1.5-2" of rear drop on your truck.

 

[Riccochet]

Bags are only really needed on coil spring 1500's to prevent excess sag. 2500 & 3500's with leaf springs don't need them in my experience. As others have said, you want the trailer sitting level when loaded, so as advised, calculate hitch drop based on 1.5-2" of rear drop on your truck.

2500's also have coil springs, and they're inboard of the shocks.

 

[JHC1]

Resurrecting this thread as I have a question. My previous tow vehicle was an F150, pulling an Imagine 22MLE. Had the Husky Centerline WDH (2") all dialed in and she pulled great. Just upgraded to a 3500 with a 2.5" receiver and now need to purchase a new shank for the hitch. When I measure the top of the receiver and the bottom of the trailer coupler, I get 3.5" drop. But when I look on Husky Tow website, I am only seeing shanks with 6"+ drops. I assume I should just purchase one of those so I have flexibility with the number of holes in the shank? Or the easy way is purchasing a sleeve and use my 2" set up in the 2.5" receiver? Not fond of that one for safety reasons.

Also, shank length is another measure I need to figure out. 10", 12", 14" ?

Thanks in advance for looking and providing guidance.

 

[AlexC2350]

Resurrecting this thread as I have a question. My previous tow vehicle was an F150, pulling an Imagine 22MLE. Had the Husky Centerline WDH (2") all dialed in and she pulled great. Just upgraded to a 3500 with a 2.5" receiver and now need to purchase a new shank for the hitch. When I measure the top of the receiver and the bottom of the trailer coupler, I get 3.5" drop. But when I look on Husky Tow website, I am only seeing shanks with 6"+ drops. I assume I should just purchase one of those so I have flexibility with the number of holes in the shank? Or the easy way is purchasing a sleeve and use my 2" set up in the 2.5" receiver? Not fond of that one for safety reasons.

Also, shank length is another measure I need to figure out. 10", 12", 14" ?

Thanks in advance for looking and providing guidance.

I’ve pulled my Imagine 3000qb thousands of miles on a Reese hitch with 2” shank and a reducer, zero issue. Also a flat deck trailer. You will want like 8” of drop for that truck to have the flexibility towing different things.

Personally I wouldn’t worry much about using weight distribution with your new truck and trailer combo. If you upgraded to longer heavier trailer then yes.