Interference from new speaker install

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BAMF

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I recently installed new amp speakers and sub. Now I have constant interference coming from the speakers that slightly changes pitch while accelerating.

I used speaker level inputs from all 4 door speakers so my inputs are coming down both sides of the truck. My power wire comes in through the firewall and immediately goes down the center of the truck all the way back to the Amp which is under the left back seat. My amp’s ground is about 12” and mounted to the metal floor under the same seat as the Amp. All paint and primer was sanded down under the ground.

Does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be?

2015 8.4 without Alpine system
• Soundstream Picasso Nano 5 channel amp
• Polk Audio DB 652 6.5” in doors
• Rockford Fosgate P2D4-12 sub wired at 2 oms


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Graygoose

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Check each speaker, can you disconnect each one and see if interference goes away?
 
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BAMF

BAMF

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Check each speaker, can you disconnect each one and see if interference goes away?
The interference is coming from all 4 door speakers. Would that still be an issue? I will try to disconnect one at a time and see.

Thanks for the idea

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BAMF

BAMF

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The interference is coming from all 4 door speakers. Would that still be an issue? I will try to disconnect one at a time and see.

Thanks for the idea

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I disconnected the two front speakers from the amp and most of the interference went away. I think it's bad connections. I guess I will take everything back out and solder them instead of twist and electrical tape. Thanks for the help.


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BAMF

BAMF

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I completely redid every connection. Soldered and shrink wrapped. Absolutely no change in interference.
I'm baffled, besides pulling every wire and running them trough EMI shielding (which I really don't want to do) I'm out of ideas.
Anyone else have any ideas on what else it could be?

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canadiankodiak700

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i'll lay money on the class D amp, sound stream is a lower end brand, and willing to bet they cut corners when it comes to rf shielding. i'll bet you swap out with a better amp, it goes away.
i know it's not what you want to hear.
 
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BAMF

BAMF

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i'll lay money on the class D amp, sound stream is a lower end brand, and willing to bet they cut corners when it comes to rf shielding. i'll bet you swap out with a better amp, it goes away.
i know it's not what you want to hear.
The next time I get a chance I'm going to ground the amp itself and see if that helps anything. Can't afford a different amp right now.
Thanks for the input though.... Its definitely a possibility

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canadiankodiak700

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The next time I get a chance I'm going to ground the amp itself and see if that helps anything. Can't afford a different amp right now.
Thanks for the input though.... Its definitely a possibility

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That's not what I mean by interference from a Class D amp it's the other electronics in it the the coils and just the way they're built they tend to omit frequencies that are picked up by your wiring. It's not so much the ground as the internal Electronics

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Make sure the amp is grounded real well.
Also, you can get interference if you run the power wire and the RCA cables together to the amp. Try running the RCA down the driver side, and the power wire down the passenger side, or vice versa.
Also, if your ground wire on your alternator is SMALLER than your ground wire on the amp, you could have a signal problem.
Just a few thoughts from an old bass head. :)
 
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BAMF

BAMF

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Make sure the amp is grounded real well.
Also, you can get interference if you run the power wire and the RCA cables together to the amp. Try running the RCA down the driver side, and the power wire down the passenger side, or vice versa.
Also, if your ground wire on your alternator is SMALLER than your ground wire on the amp, you could have a signal problem.
Just a few thoughts from an old bass head. :)
Thank you.
I have done several installs in the past with aftermarket head units, thus is the first time I have ever done one with the factory head unit so it doesn't have rca cables. I tapped into the speakers on both sides, so I have input coming from both sides of the truck. To get my amp power wire as far as possible from them I ran it down the center of the truck. My amp ground is grounded good, I was going to try and ground the frame of the amp too. I hadn't thought about the alternate ground wire size although I'm sure it is much bigger than the amp. My amp is 8 gauge (which is what Crutchfield recommended).

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adurm

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I think it's a ground issue too. I grounded to the center seat belt bolt after sanding it to bare metal.
 

88ROOK

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I completely redid every connection. Soldered and shrink wrapped. Absolutely no change in interference.
I'm baffled, besides pulling every wire and running them trough EMI shielding (which I really don't want to do) I'm out of ideas.
Anyone else have any ideas on what else it could be?

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do you have quality RCA cables, had the same issue from cheap amazon ones, so i splurged and bought all JL audio RCAs and it went away
 

88ROOK

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oh i see you dont have RCAs from reading further down, opinion and experience line levels are the worst for noise
 
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BAMF

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I think it's a ground issue too. I grounded to the center seat belt bolt after sanding it to bare metal.
I may try redoing my ground.... That was the first thing I thought of, but my ground seemed perfect. I may try relocating it anyway just to see.

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kkreit01

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I recently did mine. I have a Audiocontrol LC2i, 3 Chn Arc Audio Class D, I have 0 noise. My amp and LC2i are grounded together at the rear seat bolt (paint scraped off seat bracket). I've had problems using high-level inputs into the amp in the past. If that's what you are going, I'd try buying a good LOC (LC2i). I also use in-wall speaker wire -- which is shielded. This may help also.
 
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BAMF

BAMF

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I recently did mine. I have a Audiocontrol LC2i, 3 Chn Arc Audio Class D, I have 0 noise. My amp and LC2i are grounded together at the rear seat bolt (paint scraped off seat bracket). I've had problems using high-level inputs into the amp in the past. If that's what you are going, I'd try buying a good LOC (LC2i). I also use in-wall speaker wire -- which is shielded. This may help also.

I am leaning towards a LOC. Since all 4 speakers and the sub are being amplified?Wouldn't I need an 5 channel LOC?
Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C723VT4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_xUfhFbFM4CKDM



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kkreit01

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I am leaning towards a LOC. Since all 4 speakers and the sub are being amplified?Wouldn't I need an 5 channel LOC?
Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C723VT4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_xUfhFbFM4CKDM



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I'm not familiar with your amp, and it's features. DS18 is also an inferior brand, and you could just introduce more noise. I'd stick with a reputable company like "Audiocontrol", etc. They have 6 channel options as well (LC6i, LC7i, processors, etc.
 
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BAMF

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I'm not familiar with your amp, and it's features. DS18 is also an inferior brand, and you could just introduce more noise. I'd stick with a reputable company like "Audiocontrol", etc. They have 6 channel options as well (LC6i, LC7i, processors, etc.

Yes I was looking at the LC6i also. Thanks for your input.

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You can install a LOC followed by a ground loop isolator just before the amplifier. See below examples. I have done several car audio installations and the only thing that fixes the issue without breaking the bank is a ground loop isolator

Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo Line-Output Converter w/Remote Turn-On Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKFSLKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JwyhFb35NZEX4

PAC SNI-1 Noise Isolator, 1 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K50HJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6yyhFbJ2P82DD
 
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