Is it good to replace factory header before a leak

[mcaligiuri]

i have a 2016 with 8300 miles on it, my buddy ya a 2013 with 84,000 and he developed the common snapped exhaust studs. I plan on keeping this truck for a longggggg time and was wondering if I replace the manifolds now is there a chance the studs may break while I take it apart? I’m looking at jba headers, just don’t want to break anything while still under warranty. Anyone replace the manifolds this early and have any issues?

 

[JB1]

I have been thinking about doing this as a preventative measure on my 2017, can you just upgrade the bolts at the very least?

 

[mcaligiuri]

I have been thinking about doing this as a preventative measure on my 2017, can you just upgrade the bolts at the very least?

I was thinking maybe just taking it apart and putting anti seize on the threads. No upgraded bolts from what I have seen.

Also for the jba shorty headers is just stainless steel ok or should I buy the titanium ones? It’s a daily driver I just don’t want them to rust to he’ll like my bbk longtubes on my mustang did.

 

[S0CAL]

... if you are going to go thru the hassle of just getting to the mani bolts, in order to swap them, for a little money and not much additional labor, shorties will go right in.

The problem is not the bolts themselves, it’s the manifolds. Over time they warp which is why the back bolts are nefarious for snapping. To truly resolve this, they need to be machined, and then grade 8 bolts would ideally be used. Anti-seize is a smart move. But shoties given all the effort is a smart play.

Or...go the distance like so many others (myself included) and put LT headers on.

 

[pacofortacos]

I plan on keeping my 16 a long time also. So the preventative measure I went with was the lifetime/unlimited mileage/$100 ded. factory MaxCare extended warranty.
It basically extend the 3/36 warranty for as long as the truck is worth more than the cost of the plan. Paid $2430 in 2016.

I don't think you will gain anything by changing the manifolds early as they are just like what's on the truck now, maybe having yours planed might help.

I had stainless ceramic coated JBA headers on my old truck and they didn't rust, but they did introduce a lot of heat under the hood when towing. So after a few years, I removed them.

 

[mcaligiuri]

... if you are going to go thru the hassle of just getting to the mani bolts, in order to swap them, for a little money and not much additional labor, shorties will go right in.

The problem is not the bolts themselves, it’s the manifolds. Over time they warp which is why the back bolts are nefarious for snapping. To truly resolve this, they need to be machined, and then grade 8 bolts would ideally be used. Anti-seize is a smart move. But shoties given all the effort is a smart play.

Or...go the distance like so maybe others (myself included) and put LT headers on.

I have a 2016 and long tubes would make me have to buy a new pcm to tune. Exhaust plus tune would be like $3,000. My wife would murder me

 

[S0CAL]

I have a 2016 and long tubes would make me have to buy a new pcm to tune. Exhaust plus tune would be like $3,000. My wife would murder me

I bet. Every time I see these PCM replies, I kiss my keys to my 2010. What a PITA.

 

[69GWC]

I had planned on having mine swapped for shorties by now but I keep spending my money on other things..lol

But IMO putting on shorties or LT headers is a good move to get a problem taking care of, no reason to wait untill the problem shows up to take care of it.

 

[69GWC]

Moe's has a great deal on a PCM swap and tune add a set of shorty headers and I bet you would be under $1,200 bucks depending on what headers you buy.

 

[mcaligiuri]

Moe's has a great deal on a PCM swap and tune add a set of shorty headers and I bet you would be under $1,200 bucks depending on what headers you buy.

The jba headers are like $500 and up. Don’t want a new pcm and void my warranty so I’m holding onto the old one which would make it at least a grand

 

[RLJ10X]

It never ceases to amaze me that anyone would pay $2400 to pay for something that might break. Then on top of all that, there's a $100 deductible!

Take your $2400 and invest in the S+P 500, or Birkshire-B, and in 7 years, you'll double that $2400. If in7 years you do have a $2300 repair bill, it's paid for, and you still have your original $2400.

My truck is 7 years old, now. Never had to pay for a repair.

 

[69GWC]

Pretty sure the odds are high that they are going to break, why not fix it now when the bolts are not broken then wait and do it and fight broken bolts.

On top of that your truck will run better and Iam not talking about just a hp increase its going to overall run better because its not all choked down from those ****** design log manifolds.

Kind of preventive maintenance taking care of somthing before it breaks, good plan really.

 

[mcaligiuri]

Way I see it if it breaks out of warranty that’s $700 easy and that’s just to replace with stock. If I spend that money now on an upgrade while not broken it’s preventative maintenance.