Jack's Full Dynamat Build

[Tl806]

Well worth the effort, time & blood! Lol. Thanks for the direction @S0CAL

 

[emjohn4]

Nice Job!

I did the doors and cab as well; even pulled the dashboard to put dynomat under as far as I could.

Made a world of difference!

 

[bellaireroad]

Subscribed. When you get ready to do the floor, please show how you took everything out


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[BWL]

Don't.be intimidated by the floor. Easily the easiest part. Take out the console last as there's screws on either side that are a lot easier to get to with the seats out of the way. The kick panels and sill plates are all just snap in/out. If you have a crew cab you have to remove the trim plates for the under floor storage bins and they're just 4 screws each. I did it for the soundproofing and do it every couple years to detail it because you can get the carpet completely clean and every nook and cranny on the seats if they're out of the truck. Throw a towel over the sill to prevent scratching it removing the seats.

 

[emjohn4]

Subscribed. When you get ready to do the floor, please show how you took everything out


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I actually don't have any pics without the carpet - it was already done at that point....the pic was when the dash was ready to go back in.

BWL is right - the floor is the easiest part; he put some really good tips there. Plan on a full afternoon; and get a heat gun - it makes the dynomat install much easier!

 

[bellaireroad]

Does The carpet just lift out? Or is it clipped in?


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[bellaireroad]

I actually don't have any pics without the carpet - it was already done at that point....the pic was when the dash was ready to go back in.

BWL is right - the floor is the easiest part; he put some really good tips there. Plan on a full afternoon; and get a heat gun - it makes the dynomat install much easier!

LOL.... I put some in last summer on the back of the cab, had to put it in the freezer, but it was 104° outside!


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[BWL]

Does The carpet just lift out? Or is it clipped in?


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The carpet is just placed. The seats, console, floor bin trim rings and perimeter trim panels are all that hold it down except for a ring of push in clips for in the under seat storage and the buttons for the straps that hold down the fold flat floor if so equipped hold it in with 1 screw in the centre of each.

 

[bellaireroad]

The carpet is just placed. The seats, console, floor bin trim rings and perimeter trim panels are all that hold it down except for a ring of push in clips for in the under seat storage and the buttons for the straps that hold down the fold flat floor if so equipped hold it in with 1 screw in the centre of each.

Thanks. Good to know


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[S0CAL]

Nice Job!

I did the doors and cab as well; even pulled the dashboard to put dynomat under as far as I could.

Made a world of difference!

View attachment 194603

Looking great!

 

[RockyAEV]

Nice Job!

I did the doors and cab as well; even pulled the dashboard to put dynomat under as far as I could.

Made a world of difference!

View attachment 194603

You are dedicated! That’s freaking outstanding!


2018 Ram 2500 Tradesman
6.7L, G56

 

[c17lwalrod]

Lord help me. Im embarking on the journey now and i am positive this thing isnt going back together quite the same. Got Noico and TMS MLV and gonna do as much as i can with just those 2

 

[skyline090]

Lord help me. Im embarking on the journey now and i am positive this thing isnt going back together quite the same. Got Noico and TMS MLV and gonna do as much as i can with just those 2

Good luck! I did this about a month ago. I actually have one more door to do. I too used the Noico sound deadener (80mil) throughout and put Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro MLV + Foam on top of that from front to back. I used Noico Red sound proofing foam on the back panel and roof. The hardest part was actually removing and reinstalling the headliner as I didn't have any help. It was also tricky to install material on the floor along the middle where the wiring harnesses are. The truck is a lot quieter!

 

[c17lwalrod]

I'm thinking I'll just seal the seams between sheets of MLV with alittle contact cement for good measure since i can definitely forsee me shifting that stuff around when deftly putting seats and carpet and stuff back in. Any advice on how much coverage to actually do for the doors to make it worth it without going overboard and taking that carrier off?

 

[BWL]

No reason to worry about the seams. As far as the outer door skins. I just did as much as I could without tearing the door apart. Just removed the speaker. Noticeably quieter in my case and the door closes with a satisfying thud now.

 

[c17lwalrod]

Did anyone ever do decibel testing as they did this process start to finish?

 

[skyline090]

I'm thinking I'll just seal the seams between sheets of MLV with alittle contact cement for good measure since i can definitely forsee me shifting that stuff around when deftly putting seats and carpet and stuff back in. Any advice on how much coverage to actually do for the doors to make it worth it without going overboard and taking that carrier off?

I recommend pulling the inner panels and removing the glass (not actually removing it but taping it up using masking tape). Its a world of difference if you can apply sound deadener and proofing material on the door skins. I'm at a point where I can get the door bare in 5min. The hardest part of isnt the removal but the reinstall because there is a small clip that holds the rod that connects the door handle to the latch that is tricky to do with one hand.

You'll need a 10mm for the bolts holding the inner panel to the door- remove the speaker and the small clip from the inner pull handle. A small torx bit to remove the 3 screws from the latch. From there you can remove the clip from the rod going to the actual door handle. The glass is easily removed by rolling the windows down to where you can see the two white clips. Press a small screwdriver into the 2 tabs on each clip while pulling up on the glass with your other hand. You'll feel the glass come up if you've pressed the tabs in far enough.

The inner door panel can rest inside parallel to the seat and b pillar while having the door open. You dont have to disconnect the wiring harness.

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[c17lwalrod]

Got it all fully covered with the Noico stuff on all 4 door skins and the entire floor and back wall. Then i got the entire floor and back wall covered with a template of TMS MLV and put the truck back together. Im hoping that the noico then mlv then carpet and all back on top is nice and not a wasted effort without having done a decoupling layer before the MLV. Will test drive tomorrow. Lucking thing is now that all the red loctite and rust are off the bolts and the rear seat mod is done that if i cant stand it without a decoupling layer then tearing it all back down to add one wont be nearly as hard

 

[HTXRamExp]

Going to be embarking on this adventure next month, can only imagine how fun that will be in Houston heat. But I have a good bit of time off to hopefully get the whole truck done in one go, as well as adding in a few other modifications/upgrades.

@SoCal , just wanted to confirm, you said you purchased the mega boxes of dynamat (72sqft) and ended up purchasing 5 of them to complete the whole truck, for the Dynaliner it was 1 12sqft box of 1/2", 5 12sqft boxes of 1/4", 2 12sqft boxes of 1/8", and lastly for the Dynapad ~3-4 12sqft rolls (is what it looks like on amazon). Had you done the roof in 1/4" instead of 1/8", would that change your total boxes? Definitely will be referencing this thread and your DIY walk-throughs for doors and roof.

 

[skwake]

This was a fantastic thread! I am starting the process on my 2019 classic 1500 tomorrow. All the way down in Australia