just ordered headers

[Reaper26]

so the threads from the first one need to stick down into the pipe? ill take a pic and post it shortly.

 

[Blackram]

Here are a couple that I had laying in my tool box. The one on the right has the regular size hole it comes with. That one needs to be stuffed with steel wool. The one on the left has been drilled out to fit the sensor. Stuff the one on the right with 0000, then screw the one on the left into it. Screw both into the **** and finally install sensor.

 

[Reaper26]

ok, the one on the bottom has the threads cut off, it tapered down before the threads so i drilled the hole in the pipe that size then sat it in the hole and welded it in, then drilled the second one out so the sensor would fit then screwed them together.

 

[Reaper26]

can i just try to put the steel wool in the bottom one like it is? or will it still not work? the place i welded them in is going to have to be cut out, cuz thats where the cats have to go, when i get them ill have to lengthen the wires and move them back about a foot. id just love for the light not to be on until i get the cats on it.

 

[Blackram]

That's where the problem is. You will need another non fouler to make that work. Take out the sensor and the one the sensor screw's into. Get a new one, pack it with steel wool and thread into the ****. Then thread the outermost non fouler back into the packed non fowler followed by the sensor. Make sure you pack the steel wool tight. That should eliminate the code.

 

[Reaper26]

well damn. theres enough room to add another one on the passenger side but the driver side is almost touching the heat shield under the cab now.

 

[Blackram]

can i just try to put the steel wool in the bottom one like it is? or will it still not work? the place i welded them in is going to have to be cut out, cuz thats where the cats have to go, when i get them ill have to lengthen the wires and move them back about a foot. id just love for the light not to be on until i get the cats on it.

You know what, I was just looking at the ones in my garage again and as long as you cut it below the taper I think you will be OK stuffing that one with the steel wool. It looks like it doesn't open up completely until just above the taper.

 

[Blackram]

I measured it out, as long as you didn't cut the non fouler you are using as a **** above the top of this blue tape line you are fine packing it with steel wool.

 

[Reaper26]

i cut it right where the threads started. and its not open all the way, just a small hole maybe a little bigger than a pencil.

 

[Blackram]

Then your are good. Stuff it with 0000 then put the other non fouler and sensor back in. Pack the steel wool tight.

 

[Reaper26]

ok thanks, ill try that.

 

[Blackram]

Let us know how it works for you.

 

[Reaper26]

i will. ill get some tonight and put it in tomorrow.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

What you are really trying to do is isolate the sensor. Steel wool is the most common way of doing it, you could even plug the hole in the first non-fouler welded to the pipe. That would really isolate it. Good luck..

 

[Reaper26]

i went to several places saturday to find steel wool and the only thing i could find was steel wool soap pads. i got those, got as much of the soap powder off as i could and put them in, the light has came on one time but only one sensor, it has been both of them. when they come on my mpg really drop off, so i need them to stay off. its been a day since it came on, hope they stay off. are those pads going to work? and i ordered the 180 T stat late friday evening and came to work and it was already here! very happy with the fast shipping and im guna try to get that in today.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

i went to several places saturday to find steel wool and the only thing i could find was steel wool soap pads. i got those, got as much of the soap powder off as i could and put them in, the light has came on one time but only one sensor, it has been both of them. when they come on my mpg really drop off, so i need them to stay off. its been a day since it came on, hope they stay off. are those pads going to work? and i ordered the 180 T stat late friday evening and came to work and it was already here! very happy with the fast shipping and im guna try to get that in today.

Steel wool of different grades should be available in hardware stores (Lowes). The fuel mileage should not be affected unless you are messing with the front O2s. The front O2s are the sensors that provide the signal to the PCM to make adjustments to maintain 14.7 AFR. The rear O2s are used to determine the CAT's efficiency in absorbing oxygen. The PCM counts the voltage changes (flips) of both front and rear O2s. As long as the rear O2s flip count is less than the front there are no codes. Many folks have simply wrapped the rear sensors in tin foil and tied them out of the way. But non-foulers usually work well depending on how well the rear sensors are isolated. There are also high voltage Heater codes that can be seen, but that is caused by a open wire or burned out heater circuit in the sensor and can come from both front and rear sensors.

 

[Reaper26]

how far away should the rear sensor be from the front? i put them about a foot apart so i didnt have to lengthen the wires yet, and so the spot i welded the non fouler to will be cut out and the new cats will go there.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

how far away should the rear sensor be from the front? i put them about a foot apart so i didnt have to lengthen the wires yet, and so the spot i welded the non fouler to will be cut out and the new cats will go there.

I'm feeling you are not understanding. It's all about having the rear sensor reading different from the front sensor not how close they are to one another. Obviously if they are both reading from same point the rears will require greater effort to achieve the required isolation.

 

[Reaper26]

ok. still getting codes. im guna try to repack them. p0420 - p0430 catalyst system efficiency below threshold. p0037 h02s heater control circuit. came on as I got home yesterday, I reset it and as soon as I start the truck it comes right back, I did it several times. ive checked all the wires multiple times and nothing is wrong with them. so is the sensor going bad or is it bad. like I said we did get pb blaster on one of them and a lil anti seize.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

ok. still getting codes. im guna try to repack them. p0420 - p0430 catalyst system efficiency below threshold. p0037 h02s heater control circuit. came on as I got home yesterday, I reset it and as soon as I start the truck it comes right back, I did it several times. ive checked all the wires multiple times and nothing is wrong with them. so is the sensor going bad or is it bad. like I said we did get pb blaster on one of them and a lil anti seize.

A contaminated sensor could be a problem. Check here and do a little research. P0037 Dodge O2 Sensor 1/2 Heater Circuit Low OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com

If your wiring/connectors are good, then it comes to a bad sensor or PCM which I seriously doubt the PCM is bad. One other thing, the sensors **** should be welded from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock to keep water out of the sensors. Since you have both heater circuit and sensor circuit throwing codes I would really look at the wiring and plug again.. If it checks good then the next move is to replace the sensor. Maybe wrapping the sensor in tin foil and tieing it out of the way and of course plugging the **** for testing.