leaky front cv axle / diff

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inktoxicated

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2008 4.7 1500 ive noticed for a few months now the cv axle where it goes into the diffirential on the passanger side leaks( just pools up on that plastic box/part) doesnt drip.... today the leak didnt look like it normally does it looked milky and whitish but i also powersoap washed the underside about 30 minutes before.. so im thinking it was soap mixed in the oil that was seeping... stupid question but is this diff fluid leaking or trans fluid?? i never use my 4x4 so why does it leak?? do i need a seal? both cv axles have a little tiny play in and out... in the pic i cleaned all the leaking up.. the black arrow is where it seeps all around... the seeping gets to the point it coats that plastic box/part that is between the cv and the pumpkin. what is that part?
 

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HemiSport07

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I forgot what that axle seal was called but if you go up to the Dodge dealership and show them the picture they can get you the seal I had the same one go out on my truck it was a real simple install
 
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inktoxicated

inktoxicated

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so i took the truck to a local shop. seal is def worn out. so he recommened i change the cv axles with the seals since they have to come out anyway and it was something i wanted to replace as a preventive measure at 68k. the orginals are in there. im also getting a clicking noise going slow so i figured it was the cv's acting up.. but im convinced the clicks come from the rear left wheel... he took it for a quick testdrive and didnt hear anything. hesgoing to take it again and listen for the clicks. after researching im thinking that it may be my parking brake/shoe that is acting up because since i got the lift/35s i noticed the parking brake was very weak.. maybe the clicking is coming from that. if so kinda makes me a lil sad to spend all that extra cash to get the cv's fixed for no reason. but im not paying like 150 labor to replace a 15 dollar seal so ill replace them anyways. ill let u know what happens with this click click click noise on accleration slow turning
 

HemiSport07

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Just do a set of 4.56 gears the new seal will be in master install kit lol I got 75k on my cv axles and 35s with no issues
 
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inktoxicated

inktoxicated

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Well i went today to go pick up truck and i pulled up to shop and it was on the lift still so i was like uh ohh... mechanic was like got good news and bad news. bad news was when he was pulling the cv axles out the passanger side( the side with bad seal to begin with) pulled out with the axle stub/bearing from the diffirential stuck onto it. he had to send it out to get the two seprated. he got stub axle/bearing back and sanded the flange where the seal sits on because he said it was scored..said he ddint wanna sand to much because then it could leak again.. he said the good news was he got them seperated because chyrsyler has these on back order and my truck woulda been stuck on a lift.. is this normal or is this the end of the world for me. i was hoping it would be nice and easy and now we run into an issue. he showed me how the axle stub/bearing just slides and sits inside the diffirential(not the pumpkin part, the side of it) he said i may be able to get away with it and not have an issue when he bolts up the new cv and seal, but he was also pricing out used front diifrientials. i def dont want a whole new diffirential.... anyonhe have this issue where the stub/bearing part got stuck onto the cv axle when u pulled it out??? thinking maybe that was the reason for my slight studder/vibration at take off after i got the lift on..? hoping tommorw when i pick it up everythings ok...


edit the part that was stuck in the cv axle is part (5) in this link
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com..._model=15504&ukey_modelrange=0&ukey_make=1062
 
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tommyboy

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Man That sucks. If your going though all that and you where thinking about doing gears. Its time to up grade the gears to 4.56s.
 
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inktoxicated

inktoxicated

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yes i thought about regearing and when the front was apart the mechanic did ask if i had it regeared, i was like no. anyways the trucks up and running fine. he put the new cvs in and old stub/bearing part back in and ordered a new one. its sitting at the shop untill i get the money to have it all taken apart again but when that happens im doing new upper/lower balljoints, tierods and end links. no way im having him tear it all down for that one part when in reality it rides fine on the old one.
 

bendirkss

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That seal was leaking on my truck. I ripped everything apart only to find out piston ring sold me the wrong seal. I put everything back together with the old seal and the seal has been perfectly dry for the last few weeks... Stupidest thing
 

ATC1500

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Hey all,

I have been searching this forum for a while know. no idea why it took me this long to find this thread.

My rightCv joint where it meets the differential is leaking. Just like yours was. you can see it in the picture.

I have never replaced andything like this before so i picked up a Chilton manual for a little help. well it says go to a dealer. WTF!?

i see one of you in here replaced theirs before any pointers?
 

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Chumbucket12

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I had a clicking noise in 4wd and a shutter. I went to replace both cv axels and when I pulled out the passenger cv the stub/bearing came out with it. Same exact issue but not as lucky as you because after putting it all back together with a new seal and new stub/bearing it started to leak again. I don’t want to do this job again just to have it leak.
 

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