LED Light Bars, "fog lights" or HID-lite, to improve crappy lo-beam illumination?

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0212353

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plarkinjr - if you haven't yet.......shoot me an email ([email protected]) or text me (314-669-4437). Call anytime M-F 9-4CST as well, we can get ya set up! LOTS of info, and great info in this thread too!
 

Donelam304

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I run the Sylvania Ultra Stars in both my high and low beams. And when no traffic is around I turn on my 30" CRE led bar. I seen the company is saying them cheap again. Not as cheap as I got it. But $199 is a steal. Their Facebook page is under 330 Powersports
 
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plarkinjr

plarkinjr

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Order placed with RetroShop.US for 50w retro HIDs in Quad repro..... and a pair of switch-backs (hey, might as well while I got them out... speaking of which (see below)):


So, I'm going to have my OEM halogens in the HiBeam hole... any suggestions or thoughts on what to do with that which makes more sense (since HIDs will provide HiBeam too)? Some kind of LED marker? Some weird color like Green or Amber or Raceboy-Blue as a "flash to pass" attention getter? Maybe a strobe insert (I'm a volunteer fireman too). Or just run the halogen Hi's till they burn out and forget about them? (One day I'll probably tie a crazy-a$$ LED light bar into the HiBeam circuit too).

Again, thanks so much for all the great info so far!!!
(Dang, lighting sure has changed since my last new vehicle, a 2007 Accord for the wife, when Beemers' HIDs were annoying as ****.)
 

iam_canadian22

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I would stick with regular bulbs or even hid there too, while your lows will be brighter you will have no highs, unless your using projectors for lows


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BlackRamHemi

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Just put in a Philips Crystal Vision Ultra 9005 Halogen,
cheap but brighter than stock and 4300k

There's others out there too like PIAA and Sylvania Silver Star etc.

Personally I find my HID's (in low beam projector)
overpower my halogen high beams when they go into high beam mode (cut off shield off)

If it didn't throw a lamp out warning,
I would pull the high beam bulb right out and toss it.
 

JinxCanada

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This is exactly why I am putting on a 42" lightbar. I know I can't drive in traffic with it on, but on dark roads when I'm alone it will be a life saver
 
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plarkinjr

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Follow Up and a couple Qs

I received my Quad HID Projector retros from Retroshop.us last week (there's a whole story to tell about FedEx at a later date). I had Friday off so I installed them plus the switchbacks I ordered. I've not been out driving after dark yet, so I cannot say much, but I have a couple questions.

Where I live, it's hard to find a level spot with a nice surface to project onto for alignment... so before I started the replacement I marked the position of my OEM beams on my shop door at a known distance of 16'. Right beam was about 2 inches above the left one.

Why do the light patterns on these new ones "zig" up and to the right on both beams?
sorta like ____/------

Which of these "levels" is used to adjust the light angle (not knowing better, I split the difference).

How much higher SHOULD the right one be?

I'm thinking about rigging up a deal where I can create an artificially "level" surface by running a string from a known point on the rear wheel, all the way to the shop door, with the string passing over the same known point on the front wheel. Did I read correctly somewhere that at 25', the beam should be 2" below the headlight's height? What is the reference point on the headlight it should be 2" below? Top, Bottom, Middle?

Thanks!

P.S. My dealer doesnt have an aimer... they pull up as close to their wall as possible and turn the adjuster and eyeball it a couple inches up or down, based on whatever the customer is complaining about (poor lighting, or drivers flashing them).
 

Birddog

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I received my Quad HID Projector retros from Retroshop.us last week (there's a whole story to tell about FedEx at a later date). I had Friday off so I installed them plus the switchbacks I ordered. I've not been out driving after dark yet, so I cannot say much, but I have a couple questions.

Where I live, it's hard to find a level spot with a nice surface to project onto for alignment... so before I started the replacement I marked the position of my OEM beams on my shop door at a known distance of 16'. Right beam was about 2 inches above the left one.

Why do the light patterns on these new ones "zig" up and to the right on both beams?
sorta like ____/------

Which of these "levels" is used to adjust the light angle (not knowing better, I split the difference).

How much higher SHOULD the right one be?

I'm thinking about rigging up a deal where I can create an artificially "level" surface by running a string from a known point on the rear wheel, all the way to the shop door, with the string passing over the same known point on the front wheel. Did I read correctly somewhere that at 25', the beam should be 2" below the headlight's height? What is the reference point on the headlight it should be 2" below? Top, Bottom, Middle?

Thanks!

P.S. My dealer doesnt have an aimer... they pull up as close to their wall as possible and turn the adjuster and eyeball it a couple inches up or down, based on whatever the customer is complaining about (poor lighting, or drivers flashing them).

I don't know if there is an official reason the right one is higher or maybe your truck was accidentally set or adjusted itself that way. However, since oncoming vehicles generally approach on the left side and since our trucks are higher than the average car, it makes sense that the left one would be lower. There is a good chance that the right one is set higher to compensate for the lack of distance so we don't outrun or lights at night.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 
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plarkinjr

plarkinjr

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I don't know if there is an official reason the right one is higher or maybe your truck was accidentally set or adjusted itself that way. However, since oncoming vehicles generally approach on the left side and since our trucks are higher than the average car, it makes sense that the left one would be lower. There is a good chance that the right one is set higher to compensate for the lack of distance so we don't outrun or lights at night.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Yeah that makes sense, but Ooops - I think I might have written it confusing.... what I was also wondering is why each beam has that zig-zag. With both of them on, I see this:

....................................... _____/------..........................
.....................____/------


When aligning each beam do I use the left & lower side of each beam, or the right and higher side?

See this pic for an example of each headlight's zigzag:
10205_495539600514605_99181588_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/10205_495539600514605_99181588_n.jpg
 

0212353

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The slope, cutoff...or zig zag in question is to allow for the light to be aimed higher, but still keep light from blinding oncoming traffic as they pass you on the left there ;)

As for the aiming of them, you want them like this:

____/------ ____/------

Tops align, bottoms align, etc.

And, the lovely 2" drop over 25 ft. Doesn't have to be scientific.....I eyeball mine. I go for a drive, I see if I'm being a nuisance........and adjust as needed.
 
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