Limited Slip Diff... Please chim in

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heefageLA

heefageLA

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Now that's a toy,lol. If you smallblock swap it,are you going with a carb or fuel injection? Any thoughts on LS swapping it,the aftermarket is huge these days for the LS swapped stuff


Yeah it will be a fuel injected LS. Either that or an inline 6 with a supercharger. The LS is the cheaper option, but I'm looking at weight really close to. I think the 6cyl might be lighter.

Edit: Now that I look I see they are just the opposite! The 6cyl is 483lbs and the aluminum LS is 430lbs...
 
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HammerHead

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I see Moe's only offers the OEM unit for my year model truck. I didnt see the Yukon on their site. Ill shoot them a PM later today and see what they say.

I wonder how these work with the traction control on the truck. Hopefully I dont have to change anything electronically so these two systems play well together.
I had the OEM unit put in my old 2013 and loved it, but could only tell I had one when I turned off traction control. Turn off traction and both wheels would burn:)
 

jagman_xjs

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I had a Eaton installed in mine. Parts and labor were $670.
 

WWDiesel

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I have installed several units in the older Dodge and Jeeps. I use the OEM Mopar type which is a Dana Spicer Chrysler 9.25 Rear Trac-Loc Limited Slip differential carrier.
Not sure if the newer ones use the same carrier....
 

Elkman

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With 4WD vehicles a limited slip differential is adequate for most situations. With a 2WD vehicle I would spend the extra money on a locking differential which will work far better and provide far greater traction at the rear wheels.

Ram adds an outrageous $4,000 to the MSRP for 4WD but "only" $495 for its "anti-spin" rear differential and only $50 more or $545 to get the electronic-locking rear axle and these are available with 2WD or 4WD trucks.

Adding these later, as with the items included in a factory tow package, is a lot more expensive and something I learned early in my truck buying life.
 

RLJ10X

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Jag, have you e re been to Forza in Georgetown?

It's a shame they moved.
 

Arkangel77

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I asked the same question - I guess guys seem to lean to the OEM setup? The Yukon says its the bees knees but I have no Clue. Wish we could get more definitive advice on this
 
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heefageLA

heefageLA

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I asked the same question - I guess guys seem to lean to the OEM setup? The Yukon says its the bees knees but I have no Clue. Wish we could get more definitive advice on this


If Moe's Performance refuses to sell it, you can count on it being a POS...

Ill be going with the OEM Mopar unit.

If I could install the Detroit TrueTrac without having to regear and buy a new axle shaft thats what I would do, but its just too expensive for what I need.
 

Tim Garceau

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Unless you're heavy into off-roading/drag racing, the Mopar unit is adequate.
 

Lee DeTro

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I would suggest calling Jeff at http://www.mit4x4.com/ He's been working on 4X4's transmission's, suspensions and Diff. since the early '70's I have a 2010 RAM 1500 with 3:55 and he recommended the Eaton Detroit TrueTrac and it works great.
 

kurek

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Unless you're heavy into off-roading/drag racing, the Mopar unit is adequate.

I've got a selectable locker in the rear and LSD in the front of my other 4wd (along with sliders, meaningful skidplates, whole deal) - and have the Mopar LSD in my '15 Ram with the part-time transfer case.

Both trucks see plenty of use off pavement but the Ram is just too big to try to shove down serious trails, even if I armored it up like the other one it's wider, longer and worse on approach. That limits the Ram to routes where extreme demands on traction just aren't even relevant - I've never run out of traction with wheels on the ground. Between the BLD and the Mopar LSD it hooks up confidently anywhere I feel I have business driving and a couple spots where it wasn't such a good idea. :anitoof:

Not saying I would mind having more but I sure don't feel like the Mopar unit is going to let me down.
 
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