Line X Suggestions/Pics/Help

[The Unabomber]

I just picked up a new 2014 Ram R/T in black and I don't know what to do in regards to a bed liner. The truck came with the factory drop in that has to go! It also has the top rail caps. I'm debating leaving them on at this point. I just don't want the truck to look goofy.

Long story short I'm looking for some pictures and advise on how to proceed. Truck is suppose to go in tomorrow to be done. Should I have them spray just under the bed rails? Go over the rails and loose the caps? Spray over the rails and put the caps over it? What about the tailgate area where the big plastic cap is?

I've never done a spray in so any help is appreciated. What should I look and ask for as far as prep work is concerned? Is there any prep I should do myself for them? I'll be removing the factory drop in this afternoon, anything special on getting it out?

Thanks in advance. Can't wait for suggestions and some pics!

 

[Passt]

I had line-x done. Under the rails, kept the caps. They did all the prep work and spray. $450 out the door. Took 2 hours. Brought my dog and went on a 2 hour walk. I am pleased with the result.

 

[jbr]

Looks good!!!

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

 

[The Crow 1994]

Personally, I'd get the Linex Platinum if they are spraying that particular formula in your area. It's a new product as of last summer.

LINE-X Sprayon Bedliners, Protective Coatings, Truck Bed Coating, Floor Coating, Industrial Flooring

It cost me about $450 and took about 2 1/2 hours. I was able to go into the back and watch the guys prep and spray my truck. Pretty cool process from start to finish. Can't beat the Lifetime Warranty either.

 

[O.R.T.]

Side caps need to stay on, sheetmetal underneath is different enough that removing and trying to bedline them to look right just won't work. They do need to remove the tailgate latch cover (in case you need access to repair the tailgate latch). Just be sure the bedliner place does not attempt to remove the side railcaps to bedline it as there's clips integrated as a part of the assembly that will get broken. All they have to do is mask it off.

 

[O.R.T.]

Another tip, if they need to put on a Line-X logo, which your warranty stipulates needs to be there should you ever need to use the warranty clause, make sure it's this style, not the unpainted one.


In my case the first thing I did seeing it was the same as here was removed it and put it with my purchase and warranty paperwork so they don't have an excuse that I must've lost it somehow. The tape they use to stick them is basically duct tape, it falls off and can get blown out of the truck bed or lost in a trip to the dump.

 

[The Unabomber]

Cool guys. Thanks for the info. I guess my choices are limited due to the bed caps having to stay put.

Do you all suggest I get the rail next to the cab window spayed?

In regards to the prep work. There looks to be several screws in the gate itself. Should I ask them to spray them separate?

How does the tailgate plastic cap get removed? You guys also mentioned the latch mechanism access door needing to be removed.

My truck has the backup camera and lock harness between the gate and the bed. Does that area get sprayed? If so anything I need to mention to them? I've read complaints about overspray getting underneath the truck from that area.

In regards to the warranty I need to make sure the liner has some form of the line x logo for it to be valid? Looks as if one is just a sticker and the other is actually sprayed on some how. Suggestions and more info on that would be great.

Thanks again guys I truly appreciate the help!

 

[O.R.T.]

Cool guys. Thanks for the info. I guess my choices are limited due to the bed caps having to stay put.

Do you all suggest I get the rail next to the cab window spayed?

Got mine sprayed, although I could have sprayed a better, more even line on it because I didn't want it looking rinky-dink half-a$$'d with a silver strip in the center.

Rinky-Dink tape-off and painting job I am referring to.

In regards to the prep work. There looks to be several screws in the gate itself. Should I ask them to spray them separate?

Yes, those screws as well as the screws for the latch mechanism are removed and blank bolts that are longer are used so they can be removed afterwards protecting the threaded holes. To be clear, they spray the cover separately, but should not, should not be spraying the screws. I also had them remove the plastic bed floor caps as well as the stake pocket caps (about 4-6 of them in total about 1/2"x1" oval) so as to not have them noticeable on the bed floor (solved by using white tape over holes) as well as be able to use all 4 of my bed-stake bolt in's if I need them for bolting in longer stakes or using as a cargo-hook spot..

How does the tailgate plastic cap get removed? You guys also mentioned the latch mechanism access door needing to be removed.

They didn't remove the plastic tailgate top-cap, they line-tape it (that stuff they use these days to create shapes w/ vinyl). Then they pull the line and tape keeping the tailgate top-cap clean. As to the latch mechanism cover there's something like 6-8 torx screws that are removed and it's masked. IIRC they simply traced the cover with a sharpie to get their tape line for the area underneath.


My truck has the backup camera and lock harness between the gate and the bed. Does that area get sprayed? If so anything I need to mention to them? I've read complaints about overspray getting underneath the truck from that area.

No it doesn't get sprayed. they should be taping off about 1/8" or so off the end of the bed floor into where it drops and the plastic wiring surround goes.

In regards to the warranty I need to make sure the liner has some form of the line x logo for it to be valid? Looks as if one is just a sticker and the other is actually sprayed on some how. Suggestions and more info on that would be great.

Either way works, it depends on the procedure your Line-X installer chooses to use. I knew our installer would do the outer one not the integrated one and I just pulled it loose before it fully cured or fell off and like I said, put it in with the paperwork, after getting the tape off the back so it didn't stick to the paperwork.

Thanks again guys I truly appreciate the help!

All good. As to a a pic of the bedfloor transition at the tailgate I'll get it for ya as soon as the rain let's-up.

edit: Uploaded pictures as promised earlier today.

 

[O.R.T.]

Side note, next project I get I'll make a template of the space we actually dremel or saw out of the bed cap lines for the front bed stake pockets. The factory caps have a line there but if you follow that actual line you can accidentally cut into the paint and sheet metal underneath causing rust down the road.

 

[Burla]

I would have preferred to go over the rails, however my lineX guy who has done all of my past trucks said that with Dodge you need to keep the factory caps because they rivet them and it will look like crap if you linex them. The other alternative is to do body work to take out the holes, but I aint doing that either. I use my truck like a truck should be used and the plastic caps are still holding now about 3 years later. I figure at some point I can just replace them. So I say go under rails, except back rail, have them do that of course.

 

[Burla]

Ort's first post is exactly why you need to keep the factory caps, man that was worse then i thought, lol. Thanks for posting that ort, now I know what the guy was talking about!

I just have a linex badge, not that cool sprayed logo. As for warranty, I doubt you will ever need it. I shovel dirt, rocks, manure, you name it and I'm never careful either... never had any issues and this is my 3rd or 4rth truck with linex. It isn't rocket science, linex guys are well trained and have sprayed thousands of trucks, I'm sure your truck will be ****.

The only thing I would do is scratch the hell out of your bed. Take a sander, especially one of those osculating tools if you have it and scratch the living hell out of your bed. Your lineX will adhere better. I know for a fact the LineX guys lack in this area. they are great on everything else, but the product is so good most of them are lazy when it comes to scratching the bed. You can't blame them, put yourself in their shoes. They do the bare minimum most of the time, if you want this one thing done right I would do it myself.

 

[Moparman1303]

I got the line x with premium top coat. Looks good! I'll get pics.

 

[O.R.T.]

Ort's first post is exactly why you need to keep the factory caps, man that was worse then i thought, lol. Thanks for posting that ort, now I know what the guy was talking about!

All good.

[email protected].

 

[The Crow 1994]

Something to consider, too. If you are going with a tonneau cover with drain tubes (and are going to use them), like the BakFlip VP, my Linex dealer suggested he drill small holes in the plastic caps at the bottom part of my truck bed (nearest the cab). So, he drilled out the caps a size smaller than the tube diameter and filled the holes before spraying the product. Now any water that gets inside my tonneau cover rail system exits the drain tubes at the front of the truck bed, in between the bed and the cab.

My Linex guy strongly suggested I leave the bed rail caps on. He said he would do what I wanted him to do (for only $50 more), but he said it wouldn't look as good as leaving the factory rail caps in place. Thank goodness I listened to him.

I was 110% completely satisfied with my Linex dealer (Linex of Blair, NE). They were absolutely awesome. The spraying part of the process is peanuts compared to the prep work. The sanding (kind of tough to watch...lol), taping off, removing the tailgate, and removing rubber bumpers and screws is what makes a quality job so time consuming.

 

[O.R.T.]

^Yep. Exactly how the guys who take ours prep for the Customers who plan on running covers. Good shot to include. Thanks!

 

[The Unabomber]

The plugs you spoke of earlier are the ones that are in the picture with the drain tube above? I should ask them to remove those and spray them separately as we'll?

I never got around to popping the drop in out today so don't even know what it looks like under there.

Just want to make sure there isn't something I fail to ask them to do during prep that can cause me a headache later.

Side note I see they can color match the line x to your truck. Pretty neat. Any special extras to add to the stuff?

 

[shipmasta]

I had my spray in liner done over the rails. They used some metallic tape and taped the under side of the holes in the rails, then sprayed over them. When the liner hardens it is strong enough to stay hard and not fall though. I have had the liner on for 2 years now.

 

[The Crow 1994]

The plugs you spoke of earlier are the ones that are in the picture with the drain tube above? I should ask them to remove those and spray them separately as we'll?

Sorry for the late reply. My Linex technician left the plugs in place but drilled a hole into the plug itself so the drain tube can be ran into the plug to drain. You will still have the factory plugs in place when the truck bed is sprayed. My technician made the hole a fraction larger than what the tube size is, because the hole will decrease when it's shot with the Linex spray.

 

[O.R.T.]

@O/P

Here's a better look at what you asked me about recently.