My Redline oil just arrived!

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NewBlackDak

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Isn’t t supposed to be 0w-40, or did I miss something?


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Burla

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Isn’t t supposed to be 0w-40, or did I miss something?

What 0w40 is in the terms of what FCA is doing is really a 5w30, as in collusion between oil manu's and auto manu's to skirt gov't rules on 20 and 30 weights. The info has been posted in syn thread, find the API pdf if you are interested probably with in the last 50 pages. The 0w40's are on the edge of what is allowed to be considered a 40 weight, and because of the "swing" between winter rating and weight, the oil will soon be a 5w30 and spend most of it's life as a 5w30 in your crank case. We know that from uoa's. So just using a 5w40 any brand will give you a little more protection over 0w40. Consider this, when it comes to 20 or 30 weights, manu's usually build their formula on the heavy side of viscosity, the opposite of what happens on 0w40. But, 5w40 is usually a heavier product in any brand.

Now specifically Redline for whatever reason with many testimonials and research from many guys on the forum, and really is a theory but backed up with a lot of evidence- the 5 winter rating offerings from redline whether it be 5w30 or 5w40, seam to be their best base oil as far as keeping heavy viscosity IE metal protection. We know this from testimonials and the stat sheet, follow hths tells the story. Long story short, if you want a smooth running 6'4 maybe consider 5w40, and if you want that butter smooth consider 5w40 redline. The 5w40's offer more protection the 0w40.

Downside is a sacrifice in HP and gas mileage, as in a couple %.
 
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Firebird

Firebird

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I have read all of the synthetic oil posts, and thanks to the knowledge contributed by folks like Burla, I went with 5w40. Besides, I live in Florida, where it is hot most of the time.

My goal, due to age, is to make this my last truck, so I really wanted to start off on the right foot oil wise and put the best possible product in the Hemi, and wow, the engine is freaky smooth now!
 

SyN

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5W or 0W or 10W the motor will never notice the difference.
Temps would have to be well below freezing to even hear or feel a difference.

Congrats! That 6.4L is in great hands
 
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EastWestHemi

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I used 5w40 Mobil Delvac synthetic for 1 year in my 6.4. No codes, no problems. Have since dipped back into my stash of srt 0w40. 0w or 5w, unless you live in Alaska it doesn’t matter
 

Ratket

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There are some places in the US that get cold, and remain cold. I thought the 0w-40 for the 6.4 was directly tied to the MDS? Is that not the case?
 

SyN

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Ratket: In my personal opinion NO!
In extremely cold regions 0W-40 is probably the most logical choice.
Though there is nothing wrong with running it in warm climates either.

Ram I believe chose the 0W-40 due to the PUP SRT 0W-40 was solely created for the SRT / Hellcat engines & it was the only heavier viscosity oil that Shell (Pennzoil) had to offer that they felt could supply the needed Film Strength (needed engine protection).
Besides the Euro PP 5W-40 which I do think is a great choice but was & is scarcely available here in The States. But the 5W-40 contains very little Moly!

Is 5W-40 a higher quality choice? Only a trend of UOAs with both would determine this. (After all the break-in wear metals have diminished.) A lot of these tangibles factor around the everyday driving style & habits of the owner.

I still have no idea why the 0W. (Maybe a 1 size fits all thing).

Just me & my thoughts nothing else!

Sorry once again I got rambling.
 
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reloaderguy

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Where are you guys buying Redline oil? The prices on Amazon makes Amsoil look like economy oil.
 

Ramnewbie

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Where are you guys buying Redline oil? The prices on Amazon makes Amsoil look like economy oil.
Either nick@gotexhaust who is a forum sponsor or if you order enough to get free shipping you can order straight from redline.

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EastWestHemi

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I started up my old 5.7 Hemi in -10 to -20 weather in the northeast on dino 5w20, the 5 never gave it any problems. The truck eventually rotted out around the engine, traded it with 140k of hard miles, engine never used more than half a quart in 3k, which was mostly found in the catch can from the crappy pcv valve design.

0w40 has more viscosity modifiers than 5w40. Srt 0w40 in on the thin side and people who run uoa’s have shown it to sheer down to a 30 weight, which isn’t a problem with this engine.
 
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reloaderguy

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What 0w40 is in the terms of what FCA is doing is really a 5w30, as in collusion between oil manu's and auto manu's to skirt gov't rules on 20 and 30 weights. The info has been posted in syn thread, find the API pdf if you are interested probably with in the last 50 pages. The 0w40's are on the edge of what is allowed to be considered a 40 weight, and because of the "swing" between winter rating and weight, the oil will soon be a 5w30 and spend most of it's life as a 5w30 in your crank case. We know that from uoa's. So just using a 5w40 any brand will give you a little more protection over 0w40. Consider this, when it comes to 20 or 30 weights, manu's usually build their formula on the heavy side of viscosity, the opposite of what happens on 0w40. But, 5w40 is usually a heavier product in any brand.

Now specifically Redline for whatever reason with many testimonials and research from many guys on the forum, and really is a theory but backed up with a lot of evidence- the 5 winter rating offerings from redline whether it be 5w30 or 5w40, seam to be their best base oil as far as keeping heavy viscosity IE metal protection. We know this from testimonials and the stat sheet, follow hths tells the story. Long story short, if you want a smooth running 6'4 maybe consider 5w40, and if you want that butter smooth consider 5w40 redline. The 5w40's offer more protection the 0w40.

Downside is a sacrifice in HP and gas mileage, as in a couple %.

Why not just run 5w30 Redline?
 

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