Need 2023 Laramie Weight and Tow data

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orange

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Hello, everyone.

I need to tow a 4200lbs vehicle and I am trying to use an app to help figure out if I can go with a 24' enclosed or a 20 open car hauler, and it's asking for number not found in the door sticker.

I've searched the internet for Weight and Tow data for the 2023 1500 DT and found a pdf in Stellantis site with all that data, but there are no Laramie's listed in there at all.

That PDF can be found here: https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP/FqLY5r/est8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBJGNeBkn/D3K

According to some VIN lookup site, I have the 3.92 gear, and the truck did come with the brake controller already in the dash.

Does anyone know where else I can find any of those numbers?

EDIT: I have the 5.7L V8 MDS VVT BSG
 
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Wild one

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Hello, everyone.

I need to tow a 4200lbs vehicle and I am trying to use an app to help figure out if I can go with a 24' enclosed or a 20 open car hauler, and it's asking for number not found in the door sticker.

I've searched the internet for Weight and Tow data for the 2023 1500 DT and found a pdf in Stellantis site with all that data, but there are no Laramie's listed in there at all.

That PDF can be found here: https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP/FqLY5r/est8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBJGNeBkn/D3K

According to some VIN lookup site, I have the 3.92 gear, and the truck did come with the brake controller already in the dash. Though I'm unsure if I have the 5.7L V8 MDS VVT with BSG or not.

Does anyone know where else I can find any of those numbers?
Find a truck scale and run the truck across it,and get the trucks actual weight full of fuel,and you sitting in it.
 
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orange

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Find a truck scale and run the truck across it,and get the trucks actual weight full of fuel,and you sitting in it.

OK, I am a _v i r g i n_ when it comes to towing anything and the terms involved and what it means. I can certainly do that, but that does not give me all the other numbers.

Edit, interesting, the site displays the v i r g i n with a bunch of stars...
 
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Wild one

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OK, I am a _v i r g i n_ when it comes to towing anything and the terms involved and what it means. I can certainly do that, but that does not give me all the other numbers.

Edit, interesting, the site displays the v i r g i n with a bunch of stars...
You wanted the weight,i told you how to get it,the other questions you're on your own to find answers to,lol.
An open trailer is usually lighter,and not as prone to wind buffetting as an enclosed trailer is
 
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orange

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I'm aware that the open/closed trailer weight difference and how it's affected by winds. What I need to find out is what the truck can pull and the related data to that.

Those numbers are different for all the models/trims/engine combinations and that's the main thing I'm trying to find out which is not listed in the specs from them.

From the door sticker I know I can put up to 1436 lbs on top of the truck, but that's it.

What I really need it the gcwr and max trailer, then I can do some math.
 

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2023 Ram Trlr Tow Chart

On the chart linked above, scroll down and read the data in the blue title band. Match a one of the blue lines to your truck with the correct data. You won't find specific model information but the difference in weight and capacity on a base truck vs. a Laramie is so small that it won't matter in the final calculation. What matters is engine, gearing and rated capacities.

Next, review the data to verify your engine information, transmission information & axle information. The GVWR, payload maximum, unloaded vehicle weight (UVW) and the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR) will be used to calculate how much you can tow.

Now, use the UVW number, add a weight value for fuel, passengers and any gear in or on your truck. This is your loaded weight.

Find the GVWR of the trailer you want to tow. Calculate 10 - 15 % of that number for a tongue weight and add that figure to your loaded weight. Now, add the trailer GVWR & your full truck weight together.

Compare that final number to the GCVWR, aka GVWR on the chart, and if your truck + the trailer exceeds that GVWR the trailer may be too heavy. If the truck GVWR is higher than the weight of your truck + the trailer then you are good to go.

That last statement depends on the UVW of the trailer + the weight of the load being hauled in it.

I hope this helps.
 

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I need to tow a 4200lbs vehicle and I am trying to use an app to help figure out if I can go with a 24' enclosed or a 20 open car hauler, and it's asking for number not found in the door sticker.
As mentioned above the open car hauler will most likely be considerably lighter. My buddies 24' aluminum enclosed car hauler is just shy of 3K lbs empty..
Either trailer you use, a properly set up Weight Distribution Hitch will be a must for pulling which will most likely be 6500-7400 lbs.
I'm guessing you're looking for the GCVWR of the truck. Given that you have the Hemi with 3.92 gearing, the GCVWR won't be the issue, the tongue weight will be(tongue weight comes out of the payload capacity). All the other numbers you need (GVWR, GAWR) are on the door sticker.
THe GCVWR doesn't change from the base Tradesman to the Laramie trim for the same cab/box/drivetrain configuration, just the higher trim trucks weigh more so the trailer can't be as heavy.
 
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orange

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As mentioned above the open car hauler will most likely be considerably lighter. My buddies 24' aluminum enclosed car hauler is just shy of 3K lbs empty..
Either trailer you use, a properly set up Weight Distribution Hitch will be a must for pulling which will most likely be 6500-7400 lbs.
I'm guessing you're looking for the GCVWR of the truck. Given that you have the Hemi with 3.92 gearing, the GCVWR won't be the issue, the tongue weight will be(tongue weight comes out of the payload capacity). All the other numbers you need (GVWR, GAWR) are on the door sticker.
THe GCVWR doesn't change from the base Tradesman to the Laramie trim for the same cab/box/drivetrain configuration, just the higher trim trucks weigh more so the trailer can't be as heavy.

Yes, the GCVWR is the main number I needed, very helpful!

Thank you!
 

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Yes, the GCVWR is the main number I needed, very helpful!
Get the vehicle loaded on the trailer so you have about 10-12% tongue weight and set the WDH to return the weight lost on the trucks front axle. A CAT scale will help immensely with this.
Use the Tow/Haul mode and set up the factory brake controller per the owners manual instructions (same applies for aftermarket trailer brake controllers). Properly operating trailer brakes are a must.
Keep the vehicle speed between 60-65 (or less) mph, getting to the destination is the goal not how fast you can make the trip. Why keep the towing speeds to around 60 mph? At 60 mph a vehicle covers a football field in about 3 seconds. It takes about a second to realize what happened, another second to decide what to do and a third second to actually react. Meanwhile it takes the typical truck 150' to come to a complete stop if it's traveling 60 mph. This distance can easily double or more when towing a trailer.
 
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orange

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Yes, had already planed taking it easy on this trip and planed it so I can do each leg in 2 days (if need be) instead of trying to hurry and fit all the driving in just 1 day each way.

The trip is a month away and I already started to practice leaving lots of space to the cars in front of me. It's not how I usually drive at all, so I'm trying to get into that mode early.


Thanks for the tips. I really appreciate it.
 

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The trip is a month away
If your new to towing, it helps to get things tested before the actual trip.
I posted this a while back as general how to weigh a truck and trailer to adjust a WDH.
Every trailer load is different but with the right set up it possible to pull a 32' overall length trailer that's about 8000 lbs behind a 1500 and it stable enough to set the cruise with one hand on the steering wheel. If you have to white knuckle drive with a trailer, something isn't set up right.
 

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Hello, everyone.

I need to tow a 4200lbs vehicle and I am trying to use an app to help figure out if I can go with a 24' enclosed or a 20 open car hauler, and it's asking for number not found in the door sticker.

I've searched the internet for Weight and Tow data for the 2023 1500 DT and found a pdf in Stellantis site with all that data, but there are no Laramie's listed in there at all.

That PDF can be found here: https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP/FqLY5r/est8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBJGNeBkn/D3K

According to some VIN lookup site, I have the 3.92 gear, and the truck did come with the brake controller already in the dash.

Does anyone know where else I can find any of those numbers?

EDIT: I have the 5.7L V8 MDS VVT BSG
Here are some numbers for you to look at, of course when you put 11,290 pounds behind that little half tonner be ready for some excitment.

1745540254205.png


I do tend to push mine a bit on short local hauls, this is a 22ft., aluminum power tilt deckover, a 14,000 pound rated trailer with a 2600 pound dry weight. I have never taken it to the trailer capacity.
trailer 2.jpg
 

2003F350

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You've gotten a lot of good info here, I don't really have much to add other than make sure your trailer brakes are working correctly, and when you're running empty turn your gain down - if you don't, an emergency stop in a light trailer will flat-spot the wheels on the trailer IMMEDIATELY, and it'll ride rough afterwards. I forgot ONE TIME to turn down the gain on my empty flatbed, and ended up getting new tires because some idiot pulled out in front of me. They flat spotted so bad the trailer was literally bouncing off the ground at speeds over 55 when empty (loaded wasn't as bad).
 

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Invest in a good weight distribution system. I've had three different ones down over the years, and towed with outher peoples rigs with a couple of other manufacturer's systems.

This is teh one I have now, and so far it is the best I've used:


The heavy duty is for 2.5-inch recivers, and the mid weight is for 2-inch recivers. I bought mine on sale on Amazon, for a bit less than the site. So, check pricing.

I also orderd extra trailer hook- ups, and the lighter weight load bars to allow better adjustment to meet varying trailes and loads.
 

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I'm aware that the open/closed trailer weight difference and how it's affected by winds. What I need to find out is what the truck can pull and the related data to that.

Those numbers are different for all the models/trims/engine combinations and that's the main thing I'm trying to find out which is not listed in the specs from them.

From the door sticker I know I can put up to 1436 lbs on top of the truck, but that's it.

What I really need it the gcwr and max trailer, then I can do some math.
You don't need max trailer or GCWR to figure out what the truck can tow. You'll most times never get anywhere close to the max trailer weight rating that the truck advertises. It's 99% of the time a pointless number used for marketing.

If 1,436 is the payload number, do the math on the trailer. Payload isn't just what's on top of the truck... it's also the max amount of weight that can press down on the truck. This includes the tongue weight of the trailer.

First, subtract any weight that didn't come on the truck when it was delivered new. Toolbox, bed cover, running boards, passengers, etc... THAT is the remaining available payload.

Then, find the trailers GVWR and determine the amount of tongue weight that will be sitting on the truck. On an RV it's typically in the 15% range. On a flat bed, boat, etc.. trailer it may be as low as 10%. With a cargo trailer you can sometimes slightly adjust the weight to lighten the load on the tongue somewhat. If 10-15% of the gross tongue weight is > the remaining available payload you're over.

This is why a CAT scale is recommended. It makes doing the math much easier and is specific to your setup. The trailer may not be at it's max rating, so it may not be as heavy and you may be under the payload capacity on the truck. Or vice versa.

At the least, take the dry weight of the trailer plus the weight of the vehicle you'll tow and combine them. That should give you a relatively decent number to start spitballing from.
 
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orange

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If your new to towing, it helps to get things tested before the actual trip.
I posted this a while back as general how to weigh a truck and trailer to adjust a WDH.
Every trailer load is different but with the right set up it possible to pull a 32' overall length trailer that's about 8000 lbs behind a 1500 and it stable enough to set the cruise with one hand on the steering wheel. If you have to white knuckle drive with a trailer, something isn't set up right.

Here are some numbers for you to look at, of course when you put 11,290 pounds behind that little half tonner be ready for some excitment.

View attachment 565345


I do tend to push mine a bit on short local hauls, this is a 22ft., aluminum power tilt deckover, a 14,000 pound rated trailer with a 2600 pound dry weight. I have never taken it to the trailer capacity.
View attachment 565346

You've gotten a lot of good info here, I don't really have much to add other than make sure your trailer brakes are working correctly, and when you're running empty turn your gain down - if you don't, an emergency stop in a light trailer will flat-spot the wheels on the trailer IMMEDIATELY, and it'll ride rough afterwards. I forgot ONE TIME to turn down the gain on my empty flatbed, and ended up getting new tires because some idiot pulled out in front of me. They flat spotted so bad the trailer was literally bouncing off the ground at speeds over 55 when empty (loaded wasn't as bad).

Invest in a good weight distribution system. I've had three different ones down over the years, and towed with outher peoples rigs with a couple of other manufacturer's systems.

This is teh one I have now, and so far it is the best I've used:


The heavy duty is for 2.5-inch recivers, and the mid weight is for 2-inch recivers. I bought mine on sale on Amazon, for a bit less than the site. So, check pricing.

I also orderd extra trailer hook- ups, and the lighter weight load bars to allow better adjustment to meet varying trailes and loads.

You don't need max trailer or GCWR to figure out what the truck can tow. You'll most times never get anywhere close to the max trailer weight rating that the truck advertises. It's 99% of the time a pointless number used for marketing.

If 1,436 is the payload number, do the math on the trailer. Payload isn't just what's on top of the truck... it's also the max amount of weight that can press down on the truck. This includes the tongue weight of the trailer.

First, subtract any weight that didn't come on the truck when it was delivered new. Toolbox, bed cover, running boards, passengers, etc... THAT is the remaining available payload.

Then, find the trailers GVWR and determine the amount of tongue weight that will be sitting on the truck. On an RV it's typically in the 15% range. On a flat bed, boat, etc.. trailer it may be as low as 10%. With a cargo trailer you can sometimes slightly adjust the weight to lighten the load on the tongue somewhat. If 10-15% of the gross tongue weight is > the remaining available payload you're over.

This is why a CAT scale is recommended. It makes doing the math much easier and is specific to your setup. The trailer may not be at it's max rating, so it may not be as heavy and you may be under the payload capacity on the truck. Or vice versa.

At the least, take the dry weight of the trailer plus the weight of the vehicle you'll tow and combine them. That should give you a relatively decent number to start spitballing from.

Thanks everyone for your replies. All this information and tips has been very helpful.

The trailer I'll be towing is a 24 enclosed, 9900lbs GWVR, 3700 dry. The car weighs 4200, so I'm at 7900, tongue weight between 790 and 1185. It's just me in the truck and a small handbag with some clothes for a few days, so I'm under the max load of the truck. I've also verified and the tries on the truck now are rated for just under 2500lbs each, so I'm well under that too.

I will look into the weight distribution hitch, though for the setup as it is now, I may not need it. But since I'll have to buy a drop hitch anyway, I may as well get one of those after I do some reading up on it.

Thanks again.
 

crash68

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I will look into the weight distribution hitch, though for the setup as it is now, I may not need it.
Your going to need a WDH.
I was pulling a slightly longer and heavier trailer with a 3500 Cummins w/8' bed without a WDH and could feel in the front end of the truck. That truck is two feet longer and has about 1000 extra pounds over the front axle along with the extra 1500 lbs of vehicle weight over a 1500, the leverage of tongue weight was making the front end lighter. Losing the weight on the front axle takes away your braking and contributes to trailer instability.
 

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