Need towing advice

[dabart]

All,

I have a 2011 1500 5.7 4x2 quad cab Lonestar that has a door sticker weight of 6,700 pounds. The truck has 3.55 rear end currently. I use this to tow a 32ft travel trailer about once a month. This last trip I pulled into a CAT scale fully loaded to see how far over my tow limit I was and the numbers are below.

Steer axle = 3,200 lbs
Drive axle = 4,000 lbs
Trailer axle = 8,200 lbs
Gross weight = 15,400 lbs

I do have a WDS hitch as well as the Airlift 1000 installed so the truck doesn't sag a whole lot.

According to the ram website I have a GCW of 14,000 with my gears which puts me over limit by 1,400lbs. If I had the 3.92 I would be under by 100lbs. If I did the 4.10 I'm assuming I'd be under by about 600lbs.

I went and looked at a ton of used 2500 diesel trucks and I just can't afford them. My question is if I do the gear swap to 4.10 is this setup safe to tow with my family in the cab and would it get me through the smokey mountains? TN or Asheville NC area?

 

[smurfs_of_war]

Are the weights listed above without family in there with you or is that family included?

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[dabart]

That's as heavy as I'll ever be. Family and all.

 

[smurfs_of_war]

I don't know the smokey mountains, just the rockies. What I know from hauling through there- you're going to really wish for decent engine braking. I would never attempt the passes in the rockies with a 1500 and any sizable bumper pull. From a mechanical standpoint I would say you're likely fine pulling, it's stopping and maintaining speed that will catch you. That TT may push you around a lot heading down grades causing your brakes to fade. But I am basing this opinion on the passes I used to haul through in the rockies. Not sure how it would compare. With 4.10s you'll still rev pretty good, especially when you get higher up and the engine is gasping for breath in the thinner air. Pulling in the mountains is where forced induction REALLY shines

Short answer, you should be ok, but I think you should really look at a few other upgrades/ changes along with the gears depending on your current configuration depending on your existing setup. Tranny cooler etc if you don't already have one. Honestly you could likely sneak by with the 3.55s- it just wouldn't be very enjoyable.

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[audio1der]

First off, legally your tow/GCVW figures will never change if you get re-geared (unless you get it re-certified which is a major hassle and FAR more expensive than a bigger truck). If you get pulled over and outweigh what says on the door they won't care that you SAY you have 4.10's in the pumpkin.

Last summer we pulled our 32' TT through the Rockies. When we got settled in our site my wife asked me "Did you know there was going to be so much DOWNhill going West through the mountains? Are we in trouble for the trip home (lots of uphill grades)?"
We fretted over this our whole trip.
A few hours into the drive home I started noticing all the 7%, 8% UPhill grade signs, as well as how many downhills there were on the way home- we hadn't even noticed the uphill grades on the way there! LOL
Never noticed any brakes fade with 100% stock brakes. I never keep my feet on the brake, I use it then let it cool, repeat.
3.92s FTW

 

[mtofell]

Changing the gear ratios only changes on aspect of the whole setup and honestly it's one of the less important ones. Bigger brakes, stiffer suspension, stronger tires and better cooling all come with 2500 trucks which is the tool for the job you doing.

There are plenty of gasser 2500 trucks that are more than capable of the trailer you have. Now that the 6.4 Hemi engines are out there are A LOT of 5.7s out there for cheap - either new or used. IMO the price for used diesel truck is ridiculous (I know because I just unloaded mine for a crazy amount of money and went back to gas).

RV message boards are full of posters who just upgraded to a 2500 from a 1500 for a trailer like yours and they can't believe what they have been putting themselves through. White knuckles and sweaty palms are really no way to "vacation".

If do it with the 1500 I wouldn't bother with the gears. From talking to a few people who have done the swap the change is minimal. I'd put the money towards a tranny cooler or better tires.

 

[dabart]

Would looking at a 5.7 2500 be ok? The diesel is just too much money.

 

[smurfs_of_war]

Absolutely. A 2500 with 3.73 and a gasser is a great tow unit. Sure, you lose out on the muscle and turbo of the oil burner, but you gain plenty of frame, brakes, payload and overall stability. The 5.7 is plenty capable in the 2500 platform as a towing unit. You won't win any races, but it will comfortably get the job done. My one HD was an F250 and it had a 5.4L in it- and as anemic as that engine was, it performed well tugging all kinds of loads up to 9000lbs. The 5.7 is significantly better all around. I am seriously kicking myself every day for going from an F250 to an F150 then a 1500 Ram. I should have stayed with the 3/4 tons, but I have no real reason to work them anymore since all I do is IT now and shut down my landscaping sideline job.

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[mtofell]

Would looking at a 5.7 2500 be ok? The diesel is just too much money.

Yep... I agree with Smurfs. That's a great choice. I think the Dodge/Ram is the way to go as the 5.7 Hemi is the best engine amongst the Big 3. The Chevy/GMC 6.0 is a dog and the Ford 5.4 even more so. A 2500 Ram with the 5.7 is a great truck. You will be amazed at the difference in towing.

 

[WulfGang]

mtofell mentioned a very important part that I found out the hard way;

Tires


With my new Toyo AT Extreme II's @ 3300 lbs PSI my combo towed say %30 better.

Where I was feeling things at 50 now I feel them as I approach 70.
Which, I don't tow at, so now, it's not even an issue.

We tow a big sail as a TT too and I have yet to find a hill from several hundred miles in towing in Pennsylvania that I was worried about "run away" (I'm a truck driver so I know how to "correctly" brake down grades).

In fact, every time I go down a hill I'm amazed how much the engine/gears holds the combo back where not much brake is needed.

I'm towing with a 3rd Gen HEMI but seriously, the "Power" factor is IMO, sufficient. Not a CTD but I can't & won't complain about how the HEMI performs as I think with the terrain and load, it's rather impressive.

Just wanted to 2nd the tire comment really. I was amazed with the difference a proper rated tow tire will bring to the table when towing.

 

[smiley]

Okay where to start. First, gears make a huge difference I know because I went from 3.55 to 4.56. That being said and it was mentioned up top it does not change legal ability just actual ability. It also will be less important if you have the A8 but based on year OP does not have that so it would make a big difference since 6 speed is basically the same as mine. Second, as stated the tires that come on 1500's are complete crap for towing and in general. Upgrade those to an LT tire and it will be very stable and comfortable. Last, the 1500 Ram has both oil and transmission cooler so you are good there and using tow/haul and manually selecting a gear to help in downhill will make it no problem. If it was me and I still had the 3.55's tow with it locking it to 4 or lower in 5 speed and maybe 5 or lower in 6 speed (have not done it on 6 speed). It will keep RPMs higher and help compensate for that 3.55 gear. I think getting a 2500 is ideal but the reality is that is not in everyone's budget or even a good fit for their lifestyle so you have to balance. I almost forgot put a set of airlifts in too and that will get rid of the sag and yaw feeling when tail end is sagging and front is raised that makes it harder to control. You don't need to get bigger truck just understand you are illegal and should not push the truck more than you have to and you will be fine.

 

[BoldAdventure]

All,

I have a 2011 1500 5.7 4x2 quad cab Lonestar that has a door sticker weight of 6,700 pounds. The truck has 3.55 rear end currently. I use this to tow a 32ft travel trailer about once a month. This last trip I pulled into a CAT scale fully loaded to see how far over my tow limit I was and the numbers are below.

Steer axle = 3,200 lbs
Drive axle = 4,000 lbs
Trailer axle = 8,200 lbs
Gross weight = 15,400 lbs

I do have a WDS hitch as well as the Airlift 1000 installed so the truck doesn't sag a whole lot.

According to the ram website I have a GCW of 14,000 with my gears which puts me over limit by 1,400lbs. If I had the 3.92 I would be under by 100lbs. If I did the 4.10 I'm assuming I'd be under by about 600lbs.

I went and looked at a ton of used 2500 diesel trucks and I just can't afford them. My question is if I do the gear swap to 4.10 is this setup safe to tow with my family in the cab and would it get me through the smokey mountains? TN or Asheville NC area?

You're weight distributing hitch isn't setup correctly based on your numbers. I COULD BE WRONG, IF SO IGNORE ME. According to the info I have your front drive axle should be 3700lbs. Important question....how much weight are you transferring forward to the TV steering axle and back to the trailer axles? That's what will tell you if the WD is set correctly.

Previous cat scale tickets from some past towing to demonstrate for ya.

TV weight un-hitched, loaded for camping, full fuel.

TV & trailer no WD

TV & trailer with WD set, notice the steering axle is within 100lbs of the TV alone weight with WD set for the road.


Once your set-up properly it pretty much goes by seat-of-the-pants feel from then on.
I usually weigh on the first trip of the Season just to be sure nothings changed.