New to Fifth Wheels

[Havasu Bill]

I have a 2016 RAM Laramie Longhorn Crew Cab 4x4 with the 6.7 Cummins and 3.42 rear end. The tow ratings are Max Payload of 2168# and Max Towing of 16,900#.
Currently I have a 36' motorhome but am thinking of going to a fifth wheel. I'd like to stay under 34-35' for ease of use and to get into National Parks easier where the motorhome won't fit.
Some of the nicer fifth wheels in that size range are approaching the upper limit of the truck which I'd like to avoid. I'm thinking of adding air bags to the truck just to be on the safe side.

I also need to add the fifth wheel receiver to the truck. Any recommendations for them?

Does this make sense? Thanks for any and all input.

Bill

 

[MADDOG]

Short box or long box, Bill?

 

[Havasu Bill]

Short box or long box, Bill?

6'4" bed

 

[R/T_Fire]

You'll need something like one of these to keep a conventional 5th wheel out of the corners of your cab.
Hijacker 18K Autoslide 5th Wheel Hitch UMS Series - $1,272.99

Or something like this mixed with a conventional hitch.
http://www.adventurerv.net/popup-rv5-5th-fifth-wheel-hitch-adapter-extension-p-5307.html

also for hitches most anything works but I suggest one of these for ride and ease on the trailer
http://hensleymfg.com/hensley-trailersaver-air-ride-5th-wheel-hitches/

 

[MADDOG]

OK...lets start with the basics.

Many folks who tow a 5'vr with a short box say you don't need a slider hitch. But, all you have to do is bash your cab with the front box of that trailer ONE TIME and you'll wish you had spent the extra money. So my suggestion, having hauled 5'vrs a lot and finding out I can't always back straight in is to use one.

I have the factory rear self leveling air system and it's fantastic. I've always added an aftermarket set of bags to the rear of my truck for hauling heavy loads and to see this thing level itself out after the trailer gets hitched is almost magical.

You should go to the link below to get your specific tow data based on your truck's configuration:

Ram Trucks - Towing Guide - Capacity Chart

Then you get to do what I call "trailer math" which includes getting your truck's empty weight from the info at the link above, then start adding things like passengers, gear, fuel, etc...to come up with a loaded weight. More math follows and it's all about the front and rear axle weights (going to a scale works best) then you get to figure what your load is.

I know it sounds complicated but look at this calculator for what data you need to calculate what weight trailer you can haul:

Fifth Wheel Weight Calculator

Lastly try not to spend too much time on the RV forums. Too many opinions and stories and forgetful memories there. Use cold hard data to figure out what works best for you.

"Payload" is really a function of how much weight you can put in the bed and it will apply to tongue weight of your trailer when it is hitched to the truck.

Good luck. After you have had a chance to peruse some of this stuff, come on back here and ask the questions that will invariably come to mind as you work your way through the "trailer math".

 

[Havasu Bill]

Great information! Thanks for your help and input.
I'll let you know how I progress with this. I need to sell my coach before I purchase the 5th wheel so hopefully that happens shortly.

Bill

 

[MADDOG]

Good luck with the motor home sale.

When you are ready I'll be glad to help.

 

[avolnek]

Best way to prevent breaking the back window would be to get a long box. But a sliding hitch would work as well...

I did buy a manual slider, which i never really needed to use but was happy to have it on a few different occasions as it gave more breathing room.

I actually traded for a long box recently and still have that hitch (Curt Q16 with the slider) and would sell it if anyone is interested. Located in Nebraska. Just dont need/want the slider part any longer as I have the long box. The hitch was only used for three local trips last year, virtually like new.

 

[Epjohnso]

Slider or Not

Best way to prevent breaking the back window would be to get a long box. But a sliding hitch would work as well...

I did buy a manual slider, which i never really needed to use but was happy to have it on a few different occasions as it gave more breathing room.

I actually traded for a long box recently and still have that hitch (Curt Q16 with the slider) and would sell it if anyone is interested. Located in Nebraska. Just dont need/want the slider part any longer as I have the long box. The hitch was only used for three local trips last year, virtually like new.

I have a 6'4" bed, and don't have a problem, but it really depends on the fifthwheel. Many of the RV manufacturers are making more rounded fronts, and even extending the pinbox. I've been in 90 degree backing situations - more often than we'd ever think we'd be in, and wasn't close. The strange part of the clearance, is always said to myself, "Got watch that when backing in to spots", and you know, almost every time when in the process of backing totally forgot about checking, generally have other things on my mind. I'm just annoyed how many RV areas seem to forget you have to back a 34' RV, when the road is barely 8' wide - at least put the sites at a 30 degree angle to ease backing in.

 

[smurfs_of_war]

With your max payload of 2168#, your truck may not play nice with a fiver. Some guys aren't OK going over the GVWR of the truck, some are. I am of the latter to a degree. It'll haul it all day long, but it's what you're comfortable with. Even a 10K fiver can drop around 2000lbs or more of pin weight right into the bed (plus hitch and other junk) and can quickly put you quite a bit over.

Like I said, it'll do it all day long and I likely wouldn't hesitate, but there are those silly little nag stickers on the door that drive some guys nuts

 

[mowin]

I agree, it depends on the 5er. My Keystone Laredo has there max turn front cap. I even have a backrack on my truck, and I've really have to try hard to hit that backrack.

I also agree you're going to be lacking on payload with a 35' 5er and a 2500.
Mines 38' overall and is aluminum studded/framed. My pin wt is 2300#, and overall wt is just under 12k. Towing w a 3500 SRW.

Does your truck have the factory pucks? Lots of good choices out there for hitches that fit the pucks.

My truck didn't have 'em, but I added them myself. Didn't want the rails in the bed, and this is much cleaner. Oh ya, if you decide to add the pucks, the 2500 is a different part # than the 3500...two diff kits.

 

[BossHogg]

I agree, it depends on the 5er. My Keystone Laredo has there max turn front cap. I even have a backrack on my truck, and I've really have to try hard to hit that backrack.

I also agree you're going to be lacking on payload with a 35' 5er and a 2500.
Mines 38' overall and is aluminum studded/framed. My pin wt is 2300#, and overall wt is just under 12k. Towing w a 3500 SRW.

Does your truck have the factory pucks? Lots of good choices out there for hitches that fit the pucks.

My truck didn't have 'em, but I added them myself. Didn't want the rails in the bed, and this is much cleaner. Oh ya, if you decide to add the pucks, the 2500 is a different part # than the 3500...two diff kits.

I have a Montana with the max turn front cap and a B&W Companion 3600. The pin sits directly over the rear axle and I can get a 90 degree turn on a standard/short (the 6'4") box RAM 3500.

My RV salesman told me most of the new fivers are designed for a max turn with the standard size beds. Don't know if it is true but it is for me.

 

[mtofell]

Another consideration with the slider vs. non-slider is if you get in a situation with a quick/sharp front to back. Being able to slide the 5th back helps keep underside of the trailer from hitting your bed rails. My driveway slopes down from the street and when my rear truck wheels bump up onto the sidewalk with the 5th already going down beside my house it's super close if I don't slide back. Or, I should say it was super close with my old truck/5th setup. Ironically, I'm picking up a new 5th wheel today and have a different truck from before so we'll see how it does. Overall, with a short box truck I just couldn't imagine not having a slider just in case.

The payload thing with your Cummins is tough. My gasser 6.4 Hemi has 3000# of payload but your Cummins would out pull me all day long. When figuring out loads it's amazing how quickly things add up. Here's mine as an example:

Dry 5th weight = 9000#, 20% to the pin = 1800#
Additional gear/water/etc. in the 5th - 1500# = 300# more on the pin
Hitch in the bed is 200#
Firewood and other storage in the bed around the hitch = 300#
People in the truck - 60# for me (170# driver is already accounted for in the original payload#) + 300#

Grand total of 2960#

So, I've maxed out my payload with a 9000# dry 5th wheel. With your 2200# payload it will be much quicker.

 

[cc rider]

Something for your consideration: This hitch will save you a lot of weight (its only 45 pounds or so made of aluminum). I have a short box too and researched ways to have a short box and be able to make sharp turns in addition to being able to use my bed when I need it (without breaking my back). Getting too old Im very happy with it:

http://www.ramforum.com/members/cc_rider-albums-2013_torque_301_toy_hauler-picture21260-imag0198.html

Here it is getting just about 90 degrees , (could have went further):

http://www.ramforum.com/members/cc_...oy_hauler-picture19846-torque_sharp_turn.html

 

[mowin]

Something for your consideration: This hitch will save you a lot of weight (its only 45 pounds or so made of aluminum). I have a short box too and researched ways to have a short box and be able to make sharp turns in addition to being able to use my bed when I need it (without breaking my back). Getting too old Im very happy with it:

http://www.ramforum.com/members/cc_rider-albums-2013_torque_301_toy_hauler-picture21260-imag0198.html

Here it is getting just about 90 degrees , (could have went further):

http://www.ramforum.com/members/cc_...oy_hauler-picture19846-torque_sharp_turn.html

Very nice hitch, but most camper manufacturers will void your warranty if a adapter is used. They claim it puts too much stress and twisting on the frame causing broken welds.
I know keystone won't honor the warranty if ones used. I called and asked.
That being said, theres a ton of people using them without any issues

 

[cc rider]

I think what youre referring to is a gooseneck adapter. I know. I thought about that. Andersen guarantees no frame damage. I assume it has to do with the way its hooked up. I guess if you think about added pulling and twisting, I would want it high close to the kingping and not low by the bed.With the andersen your kingpin attaches high(adjustable) and not at two points like the goose adapters (at the kingpin and the bed). With the andersen all your stress is at one area. Ive never used those other adapters before, but ive seen them. They look like they could add some stress to the rv. Ill tell you what, this hitch is smooth as glass. Ive heard the other ones clanking and this one makes no noise too. Doesnt use grease and I cna hang it on my wall. I dont plan on keeping my rv long anyway if something did go wrong If youre ever in m area come check it out

Very nice hitch, but most camper manufacturers will void your warranty if a adapter is used. They claim it puts too much stress and twisting on the frame causing broken welds.
I know keystone won't honor the warranty if ones used. I called and asked.
That being said, theres a ton of people using them without any issues

 

[mowin]

I think what youre referring to is a gooseneck adapter. I know. I thought about that. Andersen guarantees no frame damage. I assume it has to do with the way its hooked up. I guess if you think about added pulling and twisting, I would want it high close to the kingping and not low by the bed.With the andersen your kingpin attaches high(adjustable) and not at two points like the goose adapters (at the kingpin and the bed). With the andersen all your stress is at one area. Ive never used those other adapters before, but ive seen them. They look like they could add some stress to the rv. Ill tell you what, this hitch is smooth as glass. Ive heard the other ones clanking and this one makes no noise too. Doesnt use grease and I cna hang it on my wall. I dont plan on keeping my rv long anyway if something did go wrong If youre ever in m area come check it out

Good info. But if one was to have frame issues, getting Anderson to admit thats what caused it, is going to be challenging. I do like the light weight though. I use my tractor to remove mine.. My wife calls it my $25,000 hitch remover. Lol

 

[cc rider]

And right now I'm having trouble getting ram to admit the brake controller issue. What to do, what to do........

 

[BossHogg]

And right now I'm having trouble getting ram to admit the brake controller issue. What to do, what to do........

Amen, anybody can say they will pay the bill but when it comes time to collect, it is a battle. I'd be happy if RAM could fix simple stuff under warranty.

I looked at the Anderson solution, the guys over on the Cummins forum swear by them and I never read about anyone having frame damage on the RV from the hitch, never read about anything bad with the Anderson. Hard to tell if Anderson would break out the checkbook since they never had to AFAIK.

I chose the B&W 3600 hitch, I just couldn't go with the Anderson, it just didn't look robust to me, completely my issue.

 

[mtofell]

I chose the B&W 3600 hitch, I just couldn't go with the Anderson, it just didn't look robust to me, completely my issue.

I just picked up my new 5th wheel and B/W slider hitch yesterday. All I can say is, Wow! What a piece of equipment. Comparing to my old Reese slider they are not even in the same league. The B/W runs like a Swiss watch. The thing is just solid and accurate. Moving/latching things can literally be done with a finger where as I needed a rubber mallet to pound the safety pins in on my Reese. I've barely towed with thus far but my initial impression couldn't be any higher.