Odyssey Battery or Similar for Factory Replacement on 2020 Power Wagon

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jabartram

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I run an Odyssey in my 2020, the difference between mine and the extreme is negligible.

I also have a small Kinetic auxiliary battery, that i have as a jumper battery just in case.
 

62Blazer

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I've always had the best luck with the factory battery. They have always lasted longer than any of the numerous aftermarket batteries I have tried, even if the aftermarket battery has a higher CCA rating.
 

Grand Mesa

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I've always had the best luck with the factory battery. They have always lasted longer than any of the numerous aftermarket batteries I have tried, even if the aftermarket battery has a higher CCA rating.

Old post. My OEM factory battery is still going strong after 49 months since it was first sold. It might have to do with its use in a "Cold" location.
4m4t7vtvqypl.jpg
 

retired

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I live in the area between Extreme cold and cold and have had pretty good luck with oem batteries...the secret is I get the car itch all too often and rarely keep one over 2 years lol.
 

SkeeterBait

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"factory battery which I assume is junk."

Calling a factory battery "junk" is quite a stretch. Open cell voltage of 12.6 Volts is a full charge. Extremes in temperature are the factors that will kill batteries sooner. In my 40+ years of owning new vehicles, factory batteries have never been an issue.
 

Grand Mesa

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"factory battery which I assume is junk."

Calling a factory battery "junk" is quite a stretch. Open cell voltage of 12.6 Volts is a full charge. Extremes in temperature are the factors that will kill batteries sooner. In my 40+ years of owning new vehicles, factory batteries have never been an issue.

I recently checked three fully charged batteries, two were flooded lead acid deep cycle at just above 11.9 volts parked outside and the third was an AGM starting battery at 12.06 volts with the car inside an open garage. The outside temperature was 10F. 12.6 volts is a full charge at warmer temperatures.

battery+charge.jpg
 

BillyGoat

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For what’s it’s worth IME.... on my 17 PW, I installed an aftermarket stereo system which pulls about 1300 watts RMS. I noticed after install, the lights would flicker with the stock battery. I then installed a Northstar 94R AGM and the flickering went away. I got stuck pretty bad one day and the winch taxed the Northstar battery to where it wouldn’t start the next day. FCA needs to add the idle up feature to these trucks. So I ordered a HO alternator form Ohio Generator which supposedly provides high amps at idle. Seemed to work good, but the engine rpm’s would fluctuate from 800-1200 up and down at idle depending on the load. Seems the electrical system did not like the new alternator. I switched back to stock and all is well. My next upgrade will be getting the Tazer as this supposedly allows the idle up feature. Dual batteries may be a better option if you winch hard. Anybody try this feature with the Tazer?
 

olyelr

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For what’s it’s worth IME.... on my 17 PW, I installed an aftermarket stereo system which pulls about 1300 watts RMS. I noticed after install, the lights would flicker with the stock battery. I then installed a Northstar 94R AGM and the flickering went away. I got stuck pretty bad one day and the winch taxed the Northstar battery to where it wouldn’t start the next day. FCA needs to add the idle up feature to these trucks. So I ordered a HO alternator form Ohio Generator which supposedly provides high amps at idle. Seemed to work good, but the engine rpm’s would fluctuate from 800-1200 up and down at idle depending on the load. Seems the electrical system did not like the new alternator. I switched back to stock and all is well. My next upgrade will be getting the Tazer as this supposedly allows the idle up feature. Dual batteries may be a better option if you winch hard. Anybody try this feature with the Tazer?


Yep, the tazer works for the idle up feature.
 
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