Oil and a coolant loss

[Brad Dickens]

Been stomping out little fires on my truck here lately. Down to the P0404 EGR I’ve fought for seven years and a chirp in the rear and oil/coolant loss.

It seems I’m losing a quart of oil every 600 miles and a gallon of coolant a month. No smoke from tail pipe except minute bit of whitish smoke at start up that’s over with pretty quickly. I was slightly getting warm but a new water pump, fan clutch and rad cap fixed that. I’ve pressure tested the cooling system and it’s fine now. Can’t find an oil leak anywhere nor any evidence of oil or coolant getting on the engine and burning while driving.

I’ve done all the at home DIY do I have a blown head gasket checks and it doesn’t seem to be. I did the block tester and the fluid stayed blue so I don’t seem to be getting exhaust fumes in the coolant so I’m lost.

Can’t remember the last time I replaced my PCV, could that be the perpetrator? Obviously for $30 I’ll try it but I’m just spitballing and trying anything.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

If your PCV is clogged you will be sucking oil through your throttle body, change that and clean your throttle body, Antifreeze leak you've got to be loosing it while driving, are you filling your antifreeze at the overflow bottle and are you mixing it with concentrated, (proper antifreeze) 50/50 mix with distilled water, how are your spark plugs?

 

[Brad Dickens]

If your PCV is clogged you will be sucking oil through your throttle body, change that and clean your throttle body, Antifreeze leak you've got to be loosing it while driving, are you filling your antifreeze at the overflow bottle and are you mixing it with concentrated, (proper antifreeze) 50/50 mix with distilled water, how are your spark plugs?

Ive been using the G05 and been getting the 50/50 premix so I know it’s mixed properly. I flushed the cooling system late September and refilled via the radiator and then topped the reservoir to the full line.

I replaced the water pump and I wasn’t overheating per say but at a stop sign or drive thru I would go from one needle width below half on the gauge to one needle width above. As soon as I started rolling it would go back to normal immediately. Replaced the thermostat and same thing. Replaced fan clutch and same thing. Discovered the rad cap was bad and replaced it the same day I flushed it.

Last time I flushed it, it did take a bit after burping for the coolant to settle in and stay normal. Perhaps with tax season slapping me in the face this season I didn’t pay as much attention right after flushing it. Now that’s bothering me that maybe I jumped the gun on the coolant loss.

I have been going thru oil for a long time now so I’m hoping a new PCV tomorrow will aid that some. I only get a little condensation smoke at start up for a short bit and it’s only on cooler mornings and that first startup of the day.

BTW, I know I’m new here and have bombarded the 3rd Gen forum with questions all of the sudden and I apologize and appreciate the help I’ve received here.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Hi again, with the antifreeze buy the concentrate non diluted that is 100% antifreeze
the 50/50 is 50% antifreeze and 50% water, not good for our engines, tap water is loaded all kinds of corrosive properties that are not good for all the Aluminum in our engines.

 

[LoneWolf3574]

Hi again, with the antifreeze buy the concentrate non diluted that is 100% antifreeze
the 50/50 is 50% antifreeze and 50% water, not good for our engines, tap water is loaded all kinds of corrosive properties that are not good for all the Aluminum in our engines.

You never use straight antifreeze, that is a great way to kill an engine. The specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water and can cause the engine to overheat, especially when the additives begin to form deposits in the coolant system acting as insulation.

Ive been using the G05 and been getting the 50/50 premix so I know it’s mixed properly. I flushed the cooling system late September and refilled via the radiator and then topped the reservoir to the full line.

I replaced the water pump and I wasn’t overheating per say but at a stop sign or drive thru I would go from one needle width below half on the gauge to one needle width above. As soon as I started rolling it would go back to normal immediately. Replaced the thermostat and same thing. Replaced fan clutch and same thing. Discovered the rad cap was bad and replaced it the same day I flushed it.

Last time I flushed it, it did take a bit after burping for the coolant to settle in and stay normal. Perhaps with tax season slapping me in the face this season I didn’t pay as much attention right after flushing it. Now that’s bothering me that maybe I jumped the gun on the coolant loss.

I have been going thru oil for a long time now so I’m hoping a new PCV tomorrow will aid that some. I only get a little condensation smoke at start up for a short bit and it’s only on cooler mornings and that first startup of the day.

BTW, I know I’m new here and have bombarded the 3rd Gen forum with questions all of the sudden and I apologize and appreciate the help I’ve received here.

You are using the correct type and concentration of antifreeze. It is called HOAT, Hybrid Organic Additive Technology, the best type for our engines according to Ma Mopar.

Per the FSM -

COOLANT PERFORMANCE
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and distilled water mixture depends upon climate and vehicle operating
conditions. The coolant performance of various mixtures follows:
Pure Distilled Water - Distilled water can absorb more heat than a mixture of water and ethylene-glycol. This is for
purpose of heat transfer only. Water also freezes at a higher temperature and allows corrosion.
100 percent Ethylene-Glycol - The corrosion inhibiting additives in ethylene-glycol need the presence of distilled
water to dissolve. Without water, additives form deposits in system. These act as insulation causing temperature to
rise to as high as 149°C (300°F). This temperature is hot enough to melt plastic and soften solder. The increased
temperature can result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent ethylene-glycol freezes at -22°C (-8°F).
50/50 Ethylene-Glycol and Distilled Water - Is the recommended mixture, it provides protection against freezing to
-37°C (-34°F). The antifreeze concentration must always be a minimum of 44 percent, year-round in all climates. If
percentage is lower, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation. Maximum protection against freezing is provided
with a 68 percent antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to -67.7°C (-90°F). A higher percentage
will freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat
because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water.