One Inebriated Rodents' Daily Driver {under reconstruction}

[Drunken Hamster]

Yo, guys, Dave here finally posting the build thread!

No pics as of yet, gotta load up tapatalk or something with my phone, or rip them off with my PC, but for now, I can give you my build list and specs so far.

It's an 05 Patriot Blue Ram 1500 QCRB Hemi SLT with 108,8xx miles. Basically everything is stock except for the sound system and muffler delete+resonator relocate and side pipe so far.

Current issues:
Some kind of ticking when cold. I think its an exhaust leak. A ffriend thinks so, too, as his work truck makes a very similar noise, and he has a broken header bolt.

****** ASS ergos. Pedals are too high off the floor and too close, steering wheel is too far. To get anything close to a proper poitioning, I have to make the chair either too high, too tilted in the front, or have the back too straight. I'm starting to get low back pain from it all, and had to lean the seat back some, which is, once again, compromising the correct purchase on the steering wheel. Also, the butt 'bolstering' on the driver's side of the driver seat is collapsed from ingress and egress. Need new seats.

Broken tilt steering. Took the underside of the dash apart and found out why. The cuff and hook are made of plastic, and the cuff broke off, leaving the hook to flap about and do nothing when I operate the lever. So far, I've manually rotated the cuff to move the tilt steering to a usable position and left it alone.

Sound System on its way out. Not technically a current issue, but it was back when I originally said I wanted to start this thread. The volume knob on the stock head unit was ceasing to work and the front speakers didn't work at all. When I got a new single din Kenwood head, I blew out my left rear speaker. And just recently I replaced all the door speakers with some stock sized kickers. No amps, crossovers, subs, HPF's or LPF's. Yet

Dash starting to warp, one vent grill cracked. The vent grill was my own doing. I was trying to pull up -and then push back down- the wavy section of the dash to see if it would easily come off to be replaced, or push back down to look better. Guess I effed myself on that one, huh? Pics on this specifically later.

Noticing Blend Box issues. Starting to notice a few selections on the knob won't work exactly how they should, and how I have to switch to another to get the desired effect. The main ones I use work, though, so it's not a huge priority unless it gets worse.

Tint is SCREWED! Totally charred and bubbling. Got a quote from a local place that's a certified Llumar installer. Removal is $100, the truck is $300[?], and the front windshield with air80 is $150. So, $550 total for some of the best tint, on the whole truck, that will hopefully last 10 years, instead of the two that my dad I had it when we got the truck used.

Body and Paint damage. Various. One big obvious dent is the reason for me wanting to facelift it, but there are at least 3 other mild-ish dents that need work, too. And plenty of scratches and 'love marks' as well. One big dent at the bottom of the passenger side of the bed behind the rear wheel was recently 'roughed out' by a friend with a hammer for $5. Even THAT looks miles better, already.

Quirks:

I've noticed that the center console won't open while you have it flipped up to act as a seat.

The truck idles at ~500 with HVAC off after it's warm, about ~650 with HVAC on, and around ~800 for the high idle during the first 30-60 seconds.

Also found a straight stretch of road with a nice downhill start and no cops or other cars, and couldn't get it past 107MPH indicated. And the needle was still moving decently before it got there, too, so I doubt it's an Aero, Suspension, Power, or Transmission/Gearing issue. I'm just about %100 sure it's a governor of some kind. Only question is, will that go away when I get into doing the tune to go with the other mods?

And when I did my speaker install, well, you'll see.

{{WILL EDIT AS I REMEMBER/THINK OF THINGS AND GET STUFF KNOCKED OFF THE LIST.}}

Mod List: ((An asterisk means 'in progress' 'got it to work' or 'base level', two means 'completed'))

-Full Bolt ons
-[Slightly?]Built internals
-Raised compression
-Heads
-Cam
-Tune
-Custom Exhaust *
-Flex fuel setup
-125-250 shot of Nos max
-Water/**** injection setup
-Sonnex Line Booster
-Shift kit
-Floor shifter 4-3-2-1/3-2-1
-Trans swap {{likely before Nos or cam, or when the cam blows the trans}}
-Lowered Suspension
-Biggest c-notch without bed mods
-New wheels and tires
-New brakes/brake kit
-Diff gears {{the number depends on final tire size, which depends on my final drop level}}
-Adjustable performance coil spring/coil over rear suspension {{HTH truck arm?}}
-Fuel tank relocate
-BedRug
-Herculiner
-Bed Extender
-Below bed rail toolbox
-Tonneau cover *
-Custom lighting all around
-07 facelift {unless I can get flat, lineless lenses on stock 3g heads}
-Customized headlights with projector retrofit
-06+ dash
-4th gen seats/performance seats
-Harness bar
-Custom Center Console to fit floor shifter
-Custom sound system *
-Fresh Paint
-Undercoating
-Deezee Tailgate Assist
-Debadge *{{still gotta shave the grill}}
-Paint match the horrendous chrome.

Near Pipedream stuff:


{{WILL EDIT AS I REMEMBER/THINK OF THINGS AND GET STUFF KNOCKED OFF THE LIST.}}

 

[Drunken Hamster]

Baseline pics.

As promised, here are some baseline pics as I inherited the truck and before I started modding it.

About a month after my dad passed and I inherited it. The following pics in the grassy place were taken for my build thread post on Garage Amino



For traction.


For teh lulz. And to **** off both emoji users, and truck nut guys.


Pics of fender damage.




Bumper dent.



Rear lower bed dent.





And then after a friend beat on it with a hammer for 5 bucks.


Upper rear bed dent, opposite side.


Paint damages that can be seen regardless of lighting, and headlight hazing.





Scratching from trying to remove adhesive with a sponge during debadge.


Tint damage exterior view.






Tint damage interior view.






So yeah. Lots of work to do. Tonneau cover instal prep in next post. Just a lil' spoiler, it's delayed until I can sand and bed line with herculiner as prep for the hopefully not too far off bedrug.

So yeah. Definitely needs work.

You guys have any tips on paint restoration/repair for this, or should I just repaint it like I want to? If I end up sticking with the 05 front, it'll be getting a new fender for the front, and that'll have fresh paint on it.

I just don't want it all to look mismatched with old paint on most of it, and new paint on one fender. Planning on either staying Patriot Blue, or going with a custom mixed pure blue, 100% saturation, and about as dark as patriot blue.

Also, could I get some advice on the rest of the bodily damage and how to repair it? Specifically the tiny dings/little creases all around, or the nice medium ones on the rear bumper and drivers' side rear QP?

 

[rocket]

a tune would give you the option to disable the governed top end.....when done your gonna have a sharp looking truck.......but if it's a daily driver, I'd lay low on the track and strip mods.....they just don't mod well together,imo. Don't get me wrong , I have some racing goodies too........just no parachute! lol.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

a tune would give you the option to disable the governed top end.....when done your gonna have a sharp looking truck.......but if it's a daily driver, I'd lay low on the track and strip mods.....they just don't mod well together,imo. Don't get me wrong , I have some racing goodies too........just no parachute! lol.

Thanks! And yeah, I get you on the 'go easy on the daily' thing. I might not even really do the cam, let alone the NOS. This list is more a build list if I can get a second vehicle. Perhaps a 4g QC, even, as I want to stick the 5'7" bed on one of those and shorten the frame and wheelbase to fit. THAT would then be the daily, and this truck would become an SCRB.

As far as this truck goes as is, it won't even justify a parachute. But I am gonna be putting some nicer pads, rotors, and, if I can find them, calipers on her. As well as steel brake lines, dot 4 fluid, and a hydro boost to round it out. Couple that with some decent tires, and custom a suspension setup, and that's pretty much the end of non-powertrain/non-driveline performance mods. Except for maybe some aero stuff.

In any case, if I already am toying with the law in its stock form, the more I do to it, the more chance for trouble I'll bring myself. As it is, I have a hard time NOT going 20 over when there's no traffic. Or always pulling from a stoplight at a rate in which the truck shifts from 1st-2nd around the 3500-4000 RPM mark. I both can't imagine and can't wait until it has another 100HP+ and still hooks dead when I floor it. But at the same time, I'm also kinda worried for that.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

Just ordered a Sonnax Line Pressure Booster and the Herculiner. Gonna install the Sonnax when I do my transmission fluid. And, on that, how do I do a complete flush on my own without dropping the trans to dump out the converter?

And if I had to do that, what could I do to the stock converter while it's out to change it or improve performance? {{More just curious about this. If I have to drop trans to do this or buy an expensive tool, I think I'll just go have it done. A friend of a friend has a speed shop and he supposedly does a complete trans flush and fluid change for ~$140 including fluid cost.}}

 

[chrisp2493]

You will like the sonnax, it’s an awesome little mod. Only problem is it seems over time the computer learns to your driving habits and it eventually doesn’t shift as hard. Either that or I’m just used to it after awhile. But when you go wide open it shifts really firm

When I flushed my transmission I just disconnected the two lines going into the transmission cooler and pumped all the fluid out from there. Can’t remember if I blew air in the one line and drained it from the other. Not sure that’s the actual recommended process or not. And I don’t think you can do anything to a converter to improve it yourself, that’s done at a shop where they actually open it up and change out the internals to adjust the stall. If interested, in a few months I’ll have my 2800 edge converter for sale when I change to the new trans..

 

[rocket]

Just ordered a Sonnax Line Pressure Booster and the Herculiner. Gonna install the Sonnax when I do my transmission fluid. And, on that, how do I do a complete flush on my own without dropping the trans to dump out the converter?

And if I had to do that, what could I do to the stock converter while it's out to change it or improve performance? {{More just curious about this. If I have to drop trans to do this or buy an expensive tool, I think I'll just go have it done. A friend of a friend has a speed shop and he supposedly does a complete trans flush and fluid change for ~$140 including fluid cost.}}

Just remember, (I heard this from a wise tranny mechanic)....The more power you put in to a system , the better the odds of breakage somewhere in the driveline....be prepared to spend more or sit on the sidelines everytime you trounce on her.

This thought goes thru my mind before every burnout.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

You will like the sonnax, it’s an awesome little mod. Only problem is it seems over time the computer learns to your driving habits and it eventually doesn’t shift as hard. Either that or I’m just used to it after awhile. But when you go wide open it shifts really firm

When I flushed my transmission I just disconnected the two lines going into the transmission cooler and pumped all the fluid out from there. Can’t remember if I blew air in the one line and drained it from the other. Not sure that’s the actual recommended process or not. And I don’t think you can do anything to a converter to improve it yourself, that’s done at a shop where they actually open it up and change out the internals to adjust the stall. If interested, in a few months I’ll have my 2800 edge converter for sale when I change to the new trans..

How's the 2800 in the city? Almost all of my driving is in the city. I just don't wanna lose any more MPG as 10.5 measured at the pump averaged out over the last 3 months is a *****, as is. I was thinking of going with a 2400-2600 stall, but buying used would definitely save me some money.

You haven't effed it up or caused premature wear, have you?

Just remember, (I heard this from a wise tranny mechanic)....The more power you put in to a system , the better the odds of breakage somewhere in the driveline....be prepared to spend more or sit on the sidelines everytime you trounce on her.

This thought goes thru my mind before every burnout.

Most definitely. Planning on a trans swap when the RFE goes, or, if I get a 4th gen, it'll be one with an 8-speed.

 

[chrisp2493]

How's the 2800 in the city? Almost all of my driving is in the city. I just don't wanna lose any more MPG as 10.5 measured at the pump averaged out over the last 3 months is a *****, as is. I was thinking of going with a 2400-2600 stall, but buying used would definitely save me some money.



You haven't effed it up or caused premature wear, have you?

It’s hard to describe, but I think it feels snappier in between upshifts. The engine doesn’t drop as many rpms when it shifts 1-2,2-3. When I first put a trans tune in I complained to my tuner that 1-2 would drop to like 1900-2000 rpms and seemed sluggish. He said you can only change on the tune what rpms it shifts at, not where it drops to. After I put the converter in running the same tune, it seems like it drops to around 2200 so it’s snappier on acceleration.

It’s best to talk to a vendor about stall speed, but IMO it wouldn’t be worth buying a $600 new converter to raise the stall 100-200 rpms. I doubt you will even notice it. It’s my understanding that stall is better suited for towing applications. I wish I had a 3000 or higher stall with my mods, but I bought mine used from a forum member for a good price. And just get used to the mileage, not much can be done about it because after you mod you just tend to drive harder. I only get 11mpg combined, and I can only imagine how much worse it’s gonna get soon.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

And just get used to the mileage, not much can be done about it because after you mod you just tend to drive harder. I only get 11mpg combined, and I can only imagine how much worse it’s gonna get soon.

Indeed. Sadly. Hence why if I get a 4g, and it becomes my daily [despite the shortening] it's gonna have to be the eco diesel.

As far as the TQ converter, I wanted to lower the stall about 200-400 from the one you have. a 2400-2600 stall seems perfect for a QC that might still do some towing/hauling until I can get another truck and then go wild with it.

And really, more like a 2600 stall, as I want to have/set a launch control at 2500 even.

On a side note, I think the stock converter stalls somewhere in the 1800-2000 range. When doing a full brake stand launch, I notice that it 'jumps' in place around 1500-1600, and if I floor it and floor the brakes, the RPM stays at 2200 and it just moves forward slowly.

Also, going on this, and now that the bed is 400# lighter, how do I properly do a standing burnout with this thing in its current configuration[stock]?

 

[chrisp2493]

Also, going on this, and now that the bed is 400# lighter, how do I properly do a standing burnout with this thing in its current configuration[stock]?

Manually put it in 1st, hold the brakes and press the gas peddle until they break loose. It’***** or miss if you can do it on a stock tune. Mine wouldn’t until I ran a performance canned tune.
[yt]RTei0cUamrE[/yt]

 

[Drunken Hamster]

How far do I hold them? I've fully compressed both pedals to the floor with the plastic liner in an 300# of sand and it only moved forward without spinning the tires.

I've also floored it on grass and spun them up, only to press on the brakes and get ABS activating on me. That felt super weird.

 

[chrisp2493]

Like I said it probably won’t without it being tuned. First burnout I did was with tune and full exhaust done. I had it reset to stock tune for data logging and I couldn’t get it to break them loose.

But I did do a sweet one the other day leaving work haha

 

[Drunken Hamster]

Like I said it probably won’t without it being tuned. First burnout I did was with tune and full exhaust done. I had it reset to stock tune for data logging and I couldn’t get it to break them loose.

But I did do a sweet one the other day leaving work haha

Wouldn't really call it a burnout, but I spun the tires for about a second in a parking lot an hour ago. Light brakes, full throttle. Wasn't a stand-still burnout, but the tires spun and made noise, so I'm calling it a 'mild success'

Is the inability to burnout due to a lack of power, or some kind of hidden traction control? Because I've powerslid out of my driveway several times and have done donuts in the grass and it wet parking lots a few times, too.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

You will like the sonnax, it’s an awesome little mod. Only problem is it seems over time the computer learns to your driving habits and it eventually doesn’t shift as hard. Either that or I’m just used to it after awhile. But when you go wide open it shifts really firm.

I think it might be a combination of you getting used to it, and possibly not installing the spring. If you didn't, in fact, install the spring.

Think the new hard shift would/could wear out the old spring? Hell, what's the spring even for?

 

[chrisp2493]

I’m pretty sure I read somewhere that the 545 adapts the line pressure to your driving habits. I have a feeling unplugging the battery would reset the pcm and reset anything it’s learned from your driving style. My battery is disconnected since I’m rebuilding it, I’ll let you know if the shifts feel firmer after I start driving again

 

[Drunken Hamster]

I'd really hate for it to do that. I try to drive casually to conserve MPG, but when I DO go balls to the wall, I want it to act like it was meant to do that.

Will a tune help?

And, yes, I'd be very curious to hear about that. As well as, of course, when you're ready to sell the edge 2800. Hopefully not TOO soon

 

[chrisp2493]

A tune would help a lot of things. But not for the transmission learning. It seems like the daily driving shifts get a little softer over time, but floor it and it shifts hard and quick.
I won’t be selling the edge very soon, I have to finish the engine and then save some money up for the new trans. A couple months at least

 

[Drunken Hamster]

A tune would help a lot of things. But not for the transmission learning. It seems like the daily driving shifts get a little softer over time, but floor it and it shifts hard and quick.
I won’t be selling the edge very soon, I have to finish the engine and then save some money up for the new trans. A couple months at least

Hmm. Okay, what do you think a tune alone would net me on a stock motor with the muffler delete? What about FBO and a tune?

 

[chrisp2493]

I’m not sure what all HP gains are, a tune is generally thought to give you 20-30, longtubes headers gain around 25-30, I don’t think an intake adds all that much, and a muffler delete isn’t going to spin the tires. There are lots of threads and info on basic bolt on stuff all over for good info