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Pondering spark plug change

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty' started by sandawilliams, Oct 14, 2020.

  1. Hydraplane

    Hydraplane Member

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    I plan to replace mine at 50K, just to ensure adequate amounts of anti seize. I had the 30K 5.7 Hemi's too. On the trucks I pulled the coils and plugs from front to back then installed in reverse. Seemed to give me more room to work around vacuum booster on the left and A/C doins on the right
     
    Wild one and GsRAM like this.
  2. buckeyexx

    buckeyexx Senior Member

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    I did my 6.4 just a couple of months ago. It took right about 2.5-3 hours to do it. Most of that really was because the truck sits so high and needed to take breaks when doing the rears. Laying across the top does not feel good at all and as it was already mentioned a top side creeper would benefit greatly but you do what you have to do.
    It’s no harder if not easier than doing the 5.7 which I done when I had my half ton. Just have some beer in the fridge and take your time.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  3. Chuckster

    Chuckster Junior Member

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    A couple of years ago I changed the plugs in my 2005 Rumble Bee's 5.7, what a PITA. I also have an '82 Dodge Rampage so I parked the Bee in front of the tailgate of the Rampage, allowing me to stand on the tailgate while changing plugs. I used a thick pool floating pad to lay on while leaning over the engine, which helped a little. I bought the truck about a year before, and when I pulled the first plug I was sure the plugs have never been changed, about 110,000 miles. I was having to use a breaker bar to loosen many of the plugs, and was going well until the very last rear plug on the driver's side...it snapped off. The porcelain and the upper metal hex section came out, leaving the threaded section (and a hole into the combustion chamber) in the head. I was able to get an easy-out into it (after removing the valve cover), but no room to apply any kind of leverage to allow the easy-out to grip as that section of the head is in a tunnel. After several days of trying I decided the only way it was coming out of there, aside from paying someone else to do it, was to pull off the head. The easy-out worked perfect once the head was off.

    Moral of the story: don't wait for 100k, at least check them around 50k, and use anti-seize!!!
     
    Wild one, WY.Ram and Anthony Kalos like this.
  4. Krashdragon

    Krashdragon Junior Member

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    Hmmm

    my service manual says Change the non platinum plugs every 30,000 miles, and the platinum plugs every 100,000 miles.
     
  5. White six four

    White six four Member

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    I just hit 86k on mine and checked one plug today. Plug looked good but the gap was at .052 so I ordered some ngk iridiums. That'll be next weekends project. Granted it was only one I took out I dont think it'll be too bad. Just pull my polaris sportsman up next to the side im working on. Put a piece of styrofoam down on the front rack for the knees and have at it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2020
  6. Gr8bawana

    Gr8bawana Senior Member

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    Where would somebody shop for one of those "topside creepers" you guys mentioned?
     
  7. SeppW

    SeppW Senior Member

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    Amazon, Northern Tool, Summit, many others.
     
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  8. Crazygrady1948

    Crazygrady1948 Junior Member Supporting Member Military

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    I've got a 2014 laramie. Just turned 109,000. I was debating changing the plugs. It still runs like a bull, starts right up. Gas mileage sucks but always has.
    Judging by the posts here I guess I should just let it be.
    I actually had a shop quote me $14.65 a plug. (OEM) Change the PVC, Trans fluid, transfer case oil. Total around $1,100.
     
  9. Magnum Valiant

    Magnum Valiant Junior Member

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    Over 1/2" gap? Wow!
     
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  10. JS4024

    JS4024 Senior Member

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    Leave them run. The computer will throw a check engine light if there is any misfire. My biggest issue with leaving them in for 100k is they may be a pain to get out....but worse case there, is have the dealer do it and it’s their problem.
     

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