Possible Three-Way Coolant bypass valve issues?

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ox45

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Hello all,

I'm having a few issues that I'm curious to see if they may be related. I know that the 2013 1500 had recall 13V177000, but it was only from June to Dec manufacture dates. Mine was made late April, which isn't too far off. But the symptoms I'm having seem sort of related to this bypass valve.

1st Issue - Low cabin heat. My heat output is very low. It's there, but nowhere near what it should be. I already back flushed the heater core, and checked the operations of all the blend doors. No issues on either.

2nd Issue - Very low transmission temperatures. It's winter here, so it's cold out. But my trans temp rarely goes over 90F. The attached picture is after 35 minutes of combined highway and stop and go driving. I've taken it over an hour and get the same temps.

No codes were thrown showing a bad valve, but I noticed the recall never mentions a code. How strict are these recalls in dates? Open to any ideas to solve this.

Thanks!
 

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crazykid1994

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8 speed or 6 speed? There is a way to remove the valve and either install a new one or buy one that’s not electronic and leave the stock valve plugged in and tied out of the way. I’m wondering though because your coolant temp is 194 which is not bad so it doesn’t seem to be the coolant thermostat. @Wild one how did you remove your 3 way valve
 

Mister Luck

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8 speed or 6 speed? There is a way to remove the valve and either install a new one or buy one that’s not electronic and leave the stock valve plugged in and tied out of the way. I’m wondering though because your coolant temp is 194 which is not bad so it doesn’t seem to be the coolant thermostat. @Wild one how did you remove your 3 way valve
Junior’s temp is low which could mean his thermostat is opening too soon and not letting the engine go into closed loop.
Or if he hasn’t changed the thermostat to a lower temp it’s not closing at all.
 

Wild one

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Hello all,

I'm having a few issues that I'm curious to see if they may be related. I know that the 2013 1500 had recall 13V177000, but it was only from June to Dec manufacture dates. Mine was made late April, which isn't too far off. But the symptoms I'm having seem sort of related to this bypass valve.

1st Issue - Low cabin heat. My heat output is very low. It's there, but nowhere near what it should be. I already back flushed the heater core, and checked the operations of all the blend doors. No issues on either.

2nd Issue - Very low transmission temperatures. It's winter here, so it's cold out. But my trans temp rarely goes over 90F. The attached picture is after 35 minutes of combined highway and stop and go driving. I've taken it over an hour and get the same temps.

No codes were thrown showing a bad valve, but I noticed the recall never mentions a code. How strict are these recalls in dates? Open to any ideas to solve this.

Thanks!
If it's a 6 speed,makes me wonder if it has or had the transmission thermostat,and it's been bypassed.Only the earlier 8 speeds have the 3 way valve,if your truck doesn't have the 8 speed,it won't have the valve,but it could have a transmission thermostat.Look through the pass side of the grill for an aluminium block with hard lines running to it,if it has an aluminium block a couple inches square ,that's the 6 speeds thermostat.It might have been bypassed,as there is a kit to replace the thermostat and route the transmission fluid through the cooler continously,which will keep your transmission fluid temps down in cooler weather.If you do have the 8 speed,you can bypass the 3 way valve,if you don't want to replace it,and just run heater hoses to the heater core,just leave the valve plugged in,but it won't route any coolant to the transmissions heater.The cars don't have the transmission coolant heater,only the 1500's route coolant to the transmission.The 3 way valve is mounted on the pass side frame rail under the airbox,they aren't hard to change,and have been known to give trouble.There's video's that show you how to change it,if it turns out to be causing you issues,and you want to change it
 
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ox45

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It's the 6 speed, so sounds like I don't have a 3 way valve then huh? I haven't changed out the thermostat because the temps looked ok still. I bought it in 2015, so I'm not sure if any mods were done in those 2 years.
 

Wild one

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It's the 6 speed, so sounds like I don't have a 3 way valve then huh? I haven't changed out the thermostat because the temps looked ok still. I bought it in 2015, so I'm not sure if any mods were done in those 2 years.
Look through the pass side of the grill for an aluminium block with 4 hard lines running to it,that'll be the "transmissions" own seperate thermostat,not connected in anyway to the engines thermostat.5/6 speeds don't utilize the 3 way valve,as they never routed engine coolant to the transmission to heat the trans fluid
 

11Ram150088

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Hey fellas, my names Dalton. I apologize if this isn’t connected to your thread, I’m new and have no idea where to go and I’ve searched for hours online now.

My 2011 1500 5.7 is doing the same thing with the heater and has for over a year. But. I just did cam and lifter swap. And used junk head gaskets. Before I even started the truck, I poured coolant in the radiator and it started coming out of the head. So I replaced both head gaskets. Fixed that. Had to drain oil because antifreeze got in oil. And oil got in antifreeze.

But the heat issue has been an issue for a while. Things like: drivers side colder than passenger, air from vents doesn’t have much pressure even on high, if I shut it off and turn it back on it works better for a few,”.

But since I’ve swaped the motor last week, the truck is running consistently between 203-212 degrees. This truck has never ran over 195. For the last 3 years. (I had a 192 thermostat) I replaced the radiator, thermostat, and sensor already. And fairly certain I’ve gotten the air out of system.

BUT. My upper hose is so hot it can’t be touched. It goes from softish/normal feeling to ROCK hard about to bust unless my cap is off. The only thing I can’t understand is, when the cap is off the radiator, the upper hose is scolding hot but you can stick your finger in and touch the coolant and it’s barely Luke warm. Is that normal ?

I feel like there’s a blockage. I can’t even get to the bottom of my heat blowing low until I figure this out. The truck will not over heat. Or go over 212 degrees. But also won’t go under 200 whether I’m sitting still or driving. Something isn’t right I just don’t know what. I put a valve in one of my heater core hoses last year. Other than that.

(Also I can’t hear my fan kick on and I’m throwing an IAT sensor code, IAT switch code and a few different “high voltage “ codes. Could this be related ? Please HELP!!!!

Again I’m sorry if I’m in the wrong place. Idk where to go guys ‍♂️
 
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ox45

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I'm not seeing an aluminum block there. I just see lines running into the transmission cooler, and some what I believe are lines from the AC system.

1643119570211.png
Unless you mean these small blocks
1643119627743.png
I did happen to notice some wetness on these two lines going from the transmission cooler down to transmission. Feels like it's coming from the upper connectors.
1643119592288.png
 

Jwithing

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Hey fellas, my names Dalton. I apologize if this isn’t connected to your thread, I’m new and have no idea where to go and I’ve searched for hours online now.

My 2011 1500 5.7 is doing the same thing with the heater and has for over a year. But. I just did cam and lifter swap. And used junk head gaskets. Before I even started the truck, I poured coolant in the radiator and it started coming out of the head. So I replaced both head gaskets. Fixed that. Had to drain oil because antifreeze got in oil. And oil got in antifreeze.

But the heat issue has been an issue for a while. Things like: drivers side colder than passenger, air from vents doesn’t have much pressure even on high, if I shut it off and turn it back on it works better for a few,”.

But since I’ve swaped the motor last week, the truck is running consistently between 203-212 degrees. This truck has never ran over 195. For the last 3 years. (I had a 192 thermostat) I replaced the radiator, thermostat, and sensor already. And fairly certain I’ve gotten the air out of system.

BUT. My upper hose is so hot it can’t be touched. It goes from softish/normal feeling to ROCK hard about to bust unless my cap is off. The only thing I can’t understand is, when the cap is off the radiator, the upper hose is scolding hot but you can stick your finger in and touch the coolant and it’s barely Luke warm. Is that normal ?

I feel like there’s a blockage. I can’t even get to the bottom of my heat blowing low until I figure this out. The truck will not over heat. Or go over 212 degrees. But also won’t go under 200 whether I’m sitting still or driving. Something isn’t right I just don’t know what. I put a valve in one of my heater core hoses last year. Other than that.

(Also I can’t hear my fan kick on and I’m throwing an IAT sensor code, IAT switch code and a few different “high voltage “ codes. Could this be related ? Please HELP!!!!

Again I’m sorry if I’m in the wrong place. Idk where to go guys ‍♂️
Get a new thermostat, sounds like your current one could be stuck closed. Also make sure the "burp valve", "wishbone valve", "rattle valve", "tickle time valve", whatever TF you want to call it on the thermostat is at the 12 o'clock position. Elevate truck front end when burping system. These trucks seem to be a bit more finicky to burp than two prior 300c's, so you really gotta make sure.

Your electrical issues certainly wouldn't be helping, but I'd start with a new thermostat.
 

Wild one

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I'm not seeing an aluminum block there. I just see lines running into the transmission cooler, and some what I believe are lines from the AC system.

View attachment 483744
Unless you mean these small blocks
View attachment 483746
I did happen to notice some wetness on these two lines going from the transmission cooler down to transmission. Feels like it's coming from the upper connectors.
View attachment 483745
If you do have the transmission thermostat,it'll be towards the upper pass side of the grill,in front of the rad and A/C condenser
 

Jwithing

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Hey fellas, my names Dalton. I apologize if this isn’t connected to your thread, I’m new and have no idea where to go and I’ve searched for hours online now.

My 2011 1500 5.7 is doing the same thing with the heater and has for over a year. But. I just did cam and lifter swap. And used junk head gaskets. Before I even started the truck, I poured coolant in the radiator and it started coming out of the head. So I replaced both head gaskets. Fixed that. Had to drain oil because antifreeze got in oil. And oil got in antifreeze.

But the heat issue has been an issue for a while. Things like: drivers side colder than passenger, air from vents doesn’t have much pressure even on high, if I shut it off and turn it back on it works better for a few,”.

But since I’ve swaped the motor last week, the truck is running consistently between 203-212 degrees. This truck has never ran over 195. For the last 3 years. (I had a 192 thermostat) I replaced the radiator, thermostat, and sensor already. And fairly certain I’ve gotten the air out of system.

BUT. My upper hose is so hot it can’t be touched. It goes from softish/normal feeling to ROCK hard about to bust unless my cap is off. The only thing I can’t understand is, when the cap is off the radiator, the upper hose is scolding hot but you can stick your finger in and touch the coolant and it’s barely Luke warm. Is that normal ?

I feel like there’s a blockage. I can’t even get to the bottom of my heat blowing low until I figure this out. The truck will not over heat. Or go over 212 degrees. But also won’t go under 200 whether I’m sitting still or driving. Something isn’t right I just don’t know what. I put a valve in one of my heater core hoses last year. Other than that.

(Also I can’t hear my fan kick on and I’m throwing an IAT sensor code, IAT switch code and a few different “high voltage “ codes. Could this be related ? Please HELP!!!!

Again I’m sorry if I’m in the wrong place. Idk where to go guys ‍♂️
In addition to my previous comment... Not sure how many miles you have or what kind of coolant maintenance you've done... but odds are on a 2011 you should definitely flush your system when you do a thermostat swap if you haven't recently. Hell, its a good time to do it anyway even if you have done it over 30k miles ago.

DO NOT USE A HOSE to flush your coolant. Your water quality with minerals and what not is not ok to do that with. It will corrode **** worse. Use gallons of distilled water. Make sure you flush the overflow tank too. I made the mistake once of putting wiper fluid in the coolant tank, which is super easy to do. When I flushed my system, my overflow tank was clogged with gunk in the feeder tube, luckily I think that prevented the crap mixture from getting in the engine.
 
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