Pros and cons on furthering destroy my truck

[alexander122]

I have a 16 1500 crew 4x4 with such done

Ihc 3in drop kit
Premium cluster swap
Radiator
Sport hood
Ihc cut kit
Street performance rear shocks
And billstein 4inch drop springs
Core 4x4 rear control arms
Spoon pan hard bar
Detroit trutrac
Clutch fan delete
Morrimoto headlights
Diode dynamic ss3 fogs
Custom door pods to fit 2 8inch speakers
Custom 3.5s
Arh long tubes
Helper bags
400amp alt
5% tint on sides and 15% on windshield
Newer open rear end after breaking spiders in posi


So the question is the front differentials stub and inter shaft were replaced but seals were done incorrectly as it leaks or it’d do due the drop the alignment shop wouldn’t even touch it because they said the cvs are pulling the stub and intermediate shaft out of the pumpkin and that the bushing in the control arm for the strut is being pulled anyways I can’t get a alignment because of this but I don’t feel like messing with the rebuild kit as well as I think it’ll do the same thing over again you guys think I should just yank the driveshaft cvs and front pumpkin or continue the process of rebuilding the **** every year the only con I can think of is when I get pcm unlocked and tuned I won’t be able to do 4wd launches I wanna feel one but it’s not worth the hassle it seems to keep dealing with this dumb **** I love my truck and really haven’t had any problems besides this and my rear end shattering at 70k miles any problems I’ve had is little dumb **** but it makes me wanna sell seeing how ****** and expensive these trucks really are compared to my fathers 2015 f150 with 1/4 more the mileage and zero issues ever

 

[GeauxinUp]

I swear I ain’t trying to be an a$$, but you do know what a period (or 3 or 4) is for right?? This is tough to decipher

 

[mikeru]

You listed the cons. Where are the pros? @GeauxinUp is right. Punctuation isn’t just fluff. It’s important in effective communication. I’m not asking for perfection but it’s good to know when you’re moving from one thought to the next.

I have no idea what is involved in dropping a 4x4 but it sounds like you didn’t to it properly, possibly because of cost? If I wanted to drop a truck I’d have done some research on the right way to do it that wouldn’t cause damage to the front differential and connected parts. Again, not knowing anything about it, it seems strange that you went with a 3 inch drop kit (whatever that consists of) but then went with 4 inch drop springs? Didn’t the drop kit come with springs, or is it normal to do a drop in this way?

If you’re asking for advice I’d say you should either drop it the correct way or revert the truck back to stock, fix the issue with the seals and any other issues, and sell the truck. Then buy a 2wd truck and drop that if you want a lowered truck.

 

[Wild one]

I have a 16 1500 crew 4x4 with such done

Ihc 3in drop kit
Premium cluster swap
Radiator
Sport hood
Ihc cut kit
Street performance rear shocks
And billstein 4inch drop springs
Core 4x4 rear control arms
Spoon pan hard bar
Detroit trutrac
Clutch fan delete
Morrimoto headlights
Diode dynamic ss3 fogs
Custom door pods to fit 2 8inch speakers
Custom 3.5s
Arh long tubes
Helper bags
400amp alt
5% tint on sides and 15% on windshield
Newer open rear end after breaking spiders in posi


So the question is the front differentials stub and inter shaft were replaced but seals were done incorrectly as it leaks or it’d do due the drop the alignment shop wouldn’t even touch it because they said the cvs are pulling the stub and intermediate shaft out of the pumpkin and that the bushing in the control arm for the strut is being pulled anyways I can’t get a alignment because of this but I don’t feel like messing with the rebuild kit as well as I think it’ll do the same thing over again you guys think I should just yank the driveshaft cvs and front pumpkin or continue the process of rebuilding the **** every year the only con I can think of is when I get pcm unlocked and tuned I won’t be able to do 4wd launches I wanna feel one but it’s not worth the hassle it seems to keep dealing with this dumb **** I love my truck and really haven’t had any problems besides this and my rear end shattering at 70k miles any problems I’ve had is little dumb **** but it makes me wanna sell seeing how ****** and expensive these trucks really are compared to my fathers 2015 f150 with 1/4 more the mileage and zero issues ever

You can pull everything ahead of the transfer case with no issues.When i did it 10 years ago,there was no AlfaOBD around,so i left the front actuator plugged in,and wrapped it up in a couple heavy duty garbage bags,and used some heavy duty zipties to tie it to the steering rack,but apparently if you have AlfaOBD you can reconfigure the truck to 2 wheel drive and remove the actuator.You'll lose about 120lbs off the front end,with 40 lbs of that being rotating axle weight,on my truck it was good for about 3/10's off it's track numbers.
Biggest benefit to removing the front 4X4 pieces,is you can run a staggered big-n-little tire set-up with-out any issues.The trucks will handle about a 2.5" differance in tire heights,before the wheel speed sensors freak out,and throw the truck into limp mode
Other option is,if you have a machine shop local to you,you can have some spacers made up that go between the hub and the outer CV end,the spacers effectively lengthen the CV so it's not so inclined to pull off the stub shaft. You'd probably want a spacer about 3/4" to 1" wide to help keep the CV on the stub shaft