Pulling evap core

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Ryan J

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Posts
249
Reaction score
152
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2012 Laramie limited
Engine
5.7 hemi
My evap core is leaking at the firewall. I can hear it leaking from under the hood. I am an hvac tech so i know my way around a system. My suction hose coming off the metering device had gotten bent. I replaced it, all the gaskets, and orings at the firewall and on evap core behind the metering device. Its still leaking. I think a line or something broke when the suction line got bent. So im planning on pulling the center console, dash and evap box. Im changing the evap, should i change the heater core and blend doors while its out? 2012 with 165k miles on it. Ive noticed in the past that with the fan turned all the way up, it doesnt blow all that hard and i can hear it blowing hard almost like something is blocking air flow. I dont have any issues with one side being cold and the other hot or anything. The air did get cold, just seems like the air flow is weak. I replaced the blower a few years ago so it is newer. Anybody thats done this and did or didnt change everything while it was out, whats yals opinion?

And i plan on doing the filter mod also.
 

Elvira

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Posts
443
Reaction score
827
Location
Somewhere
Yes, if you are going to all that trouble to remove and replace evap core...do the heater core too for the sake of a bit more money for the core.. You can also check blend doors and any obstructions in heater box. Now is the time to do and do right with it all apart.
 

Daw14

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Posts
2,029
Reaction score
2,079
Ram Year
2014
Engine
5.7 hemi
It will be apart , never had a filter for core ,absolutely all maintenance possible while it’s open .
 
OP
OP
Ryan J

Ryan J

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Posts
249
Reaction score
152
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2012 Laramie limited
Engine
5.7 hemi
It will be apart , never had a filter for core ,absolutely all maintenance possible while it’s open .
Yeah kinda my thinking. Yeah theres a cabin air filter mod for the evap core. Think i will install that too.
 
OP
OP
Ryan J

Ryan J

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Posts
249
Reaction score
152
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2012 Laramie limited
Engine
5.7 hemi
Yes, if you are going to all that trouble to remove and replace evap core...do the heater core too for the sake of a bit more money for the core.. You can also check blend doors and any obstructions in heater box. Now is the time to do and do right with it all apart.
Yeah i didnt want to go through the trouble but with quotes of $1100 and $1800 im willing to go through the trouble.
 
OP
OP
Ryan J

Ryan J

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Posts
249
Reaction score
152
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2012 Laramie limited
Engine
5.7 hemi
So ive been looking around, i see on rockauto they have 3 evap cores, 2 around $60 and a mopar for over $200. Oreillys has a murray for right at $100. Obviously mopar is probably better but is it that much better?

And how many blend doors and actuaters are there? Same as the evap, some are really cheap and some are really expensive
 

emjohn4

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2012
Posts
1,149
Reaction score
667
Ram Year
2012
Engine
Hemi 5.7
You only 'need' (i.e. should) replace the blend door actuator that is against the firewall, and for the recirc function. The others can be reached with the dash in the truck.

Get the Mopar evaporator, you don't want to do it again. Same for the heater core.

Remove the steering column (don't just lay it down), it's much easier.

The job isn't bad; isn't even hard, just time consuming.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200123_171231.jpg
    IMG_20200123_171231.jpg
    147.4 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_20200123_171241.jpg
    IMG_20200123_171241.jpg
    231.1 KB · Views: 15

Jeepwalker

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2017
Posts
3,138
Reaction score
3,331
Location
WI
Ram Year
2012 Reg Cab, 4x4
Engine
5.7 Hemi
Is the reason your evap is leaking b/c it got bent or kinked?

Being an HVAC tech, you could try cutting the damaged area of the line (if it's a straight section of line) and brazing a coupler where the damaged area was ...and also it would give it some strength. Use high-silver brazing rod. If it's successful, which I don't know why it wouldn't be, and pressure-tests out ok, put er back in. I mean an HVAC system can last almost indefinitely when hard lines are brazed right. I know it's riskier than brand new, but maybe not. I've known guys who's new evap leaked too. Well, maybe try brazing and pressure testing before you order a replacement. I mean look at how many homes and commercial buidlings have brazed condensers and evaporators that don't leak. ...tens of Millions of systems in place some since the 60's.

The heater core I would definitely replace (as other guys have advised) with a Mopar heater core. Double check the recirc/outside blend door for any weaknesses at the hinge.
 
OP
OP
Ryan J

Ryan J

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Posts
249
Reaction score
152
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2012 Laramie limited
Engine
5.7 hemi
Is the reason your evap is leaking b/c it got bent or kinked?

Being an HVAC tech, you could try cutting the damaged area of the line (if it's a straight section of line) and brazing a coupler where the damaged area was ...and also it would give it some strength. Use high-silver brazing rod. If it's successful, which I don't know why it wouldn't be, and pressure-tests out ok, put er back in. I mean an HVAC system can last almost indefinitely when hard lines are brazed right. I know it's riskier than brand new, but maybe not. I've known guys who's new evap leaked too. Well, maybe try brazing and pressure testing before you order a replacement. I mean look at how many homes and commercial buidlings have brazed condensers and evaporators that don't leak. ...tens of Millions of systems in place some since the 60's.

The heater core I would definitely replace (as other guys have advised) with a Mopar heater core. Double check the recirc/outside blend door for any weaknesses at the hinge.
The suction hose got pulled up where it bolts to the metering device (txv), i cant access where its leaking. Its literally recessed into the firewall. Basically the stubs off of the evap. So the hose is supposed to route under the air intake to the firewall, i had it in the shop getting a cam and lifter job done and when i got it back the suction hose was ran over the top of the intake. I rerouted the hose under the intake like its supposed to be and it got pulled up so bad that the rubber part of the hose kinks from hitting the bottom of the intake. The hose bolts to the txv, txv bolts to evap flange, thats all solid so the lines coming off the evap have to be broke. I can hear the leak. I can pull up on the hose and it leaks worse, i can push it down and it almost stop leaking, kinda like an aluminum popcan when crinkle it up.
 
OP
OP
Ryan J

Ryan J

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Posts
249
Reaction score
152
Location
Oklahoma
Ram Year
2012 Laramie limited
Engine
5.7 hemi
Is the reason your evap is leaking b/c it got bent or kinked?

Being an HVAC tech, you could try cutting the damaged area of the line (if it's a straight section of line) and brazing a coupler where the damaged area was ...and also it would give it some strength. Use high-silver brazing rod. If it's successful, which I don't know why it wouldn't be, and pressure-tests out ok, put er back in. I mean an HVAC system can last almost indefinitely when hard lines are brazed right. I know it's riskier than brand new, but maybe not. I've known guys who's new evap leaked too. Well, maybe try brazing and pressure testing before you order a replacement. I mean look at how many homes and commercial buidlings have brazed condensers and evaporators that don't leak. ...tens of Millions of systems in place some since the 60's.

The heater core I would definitely replace (as other guys have advised) with a Mopar heater core. Double check the recirc/outside blend door for any weaknesses at the hinge.
And yes i can braze like nobodys business. Ive done everything from 1/8" to 6" copper. I do commercial refrigeration. Ive brazed pipe inches away from sprinkler heads, conduit, seal tight, sheetrock you name it. If it was brazeable this post would not be here. Now once i pull the evap i might be able to braze it but its still gotta come out in order to do so.
 
Top